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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-05-2015 01:32 PM
HeisKai
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bebe View Post
Honestly Kai-

The first advice I received was from Mike Shaffer who builds desert racers. He said, "calculate what you think it should be and then double it". He wasn't far off.

You will need to obtain corner weights, and calculate both sprung and un-sprung weight. Then using a website spring calculator (I should have one posted in my thread), enter the required dimensions (shock angle and distance from center) and weights, it will recommend a spring rate. You'll also need to consider if you want to do a single rate or a dual rate set up.

I am running 650/750 in the front. We started with 350/450 - LOL.

You need enough spring to carry the weight of the vehicle at the desired ride height - but not too much, or it will be too stiff. Honestly the vehicle does most of the work via a-arm design - that's what determines the amount of flex and ratio. Off road performance is important, but don't lose sight of the on road aspect. Your vehicle needs to be safe on the road, so err on the side of appropriate on road performance. If it's too soft you will have a hard time maintaining control at speed on sweeping turns.

I have leaf springs in the rear, so that rate is set by the manufacturer. Shock is more important here, and we still need to re-tune my shocks for desert running. I have too high a rebound rate at the moment.

Lots of Internet research is really the way to go, every time I learned an new term and a new aspect of tuning long travel IFS.

Good luck, and don't forget to post your build on Pirate4x4.com

Bebe
Thanks a lot for the detailed info! This is very helpful. My setup is much less involved than yours and I'm just buying off the shelf package. The coilover that the vendor recommend is 650 single rate, which sounds like in the ballpark. I have always thought that's too much and I should put a soft spring for crawling, but it seems it's not the case.

Glad that I came across here and I will get more involved in Pirate4x4. Much more to learn from you guys.

Thank you again!
Kai
01-05-2015 12:33 PM
Bebe PS always use the post number, there are different settings for number of posts per page...I only have 15 for this thread
01-05-2015 12:30 PM
Bebe
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeisKai View Post
Hi Bebe,

I am an FJ cruiser owner and recently going long travel with the bolt on kit made by Allpro. I am new to Pirate4x4 and I found your build thread during google search. Your build is truely astonishing and gave lots of IFS guys more hope and confidence. I'm sure you have already received overwhelming compliment so I will cut straight to the cake

On page 17, how do you figure out the right spring rate which helped you gain the extra flex? I tried to search through your build thread but couldn't find more on that. I assume the front and rear need to have similar "stiffness" in order to get the most flex? I saw most IFS front + SA rear setup the rear usually takes up all the flex while the front is stiff and leveled.

Hope I can gain some insight from you. My sincere appreciation in advance!

Thank you!
Kai
Honestly Kai-

The first advice I received was from Mike Shaffer who builds desert racers. He said, "calculate what you think it should be and then double it". He wasn't far off.

You will need to obtain corner weights, and calculate both sprung and un-sprung weight. Then using a website spring calculator (I should have one posted in my thread), enter the required dimensions (shock angle and distance from center) and weights, it will recommend a spring rate. You'll also need to consider if you want to do a single rate or a dual rate set up.

I am running 650/750 in the front. We started with 350/450 - LOL.

You need enough spring to carry the weight of the vehicle at the desired ride height - but not too much, or it will be too stiff. Honestly the vehicle does most of the work via a-arm design - that's what determines the amount of flex and ratio. Off road performance is important, but don't lose sight of the on road aspect. Your vehicle needs to be safe on the road, so err on the side of appropriate on road performance. If it's too soft you will have a hard time maintaining control at speed on sweeping turns.

I have leaf springs in the rear, so that rate is set by the manufacturer. Shock is more important here, and we still need to re-tune my shocks for desert running. I have too high a rebound rate at the moment.

Lots of Internet research is really the way to go, every time I learned an new term and a new aspect of tuning long travel IFS.

Good luck, and don't forget to post your build on Pirate4x4.com

Bebe
01-02-2015 12:00 PM
HeisKai Hi Bebe,

I am an FJ cruiser owner and recently going long travel with the bolt on kit made by Allpro. I am new to Pirate4x4 and I found your build thread during google search. Your build is truely astonishing and gave lots of IFS guys more hope and confidence. I'm sure you have already received overwhelming compliment so I will cut straight to the cake

On page 17, how do you figure out the right spring rate which helped you gain the extra flex? I tried to search through your build thread but couldn't find more on that. I assume the front and rear need to have similar "stiffness" in order to get the most flex? I saw most IFS front + SA rear setup the rear usually takes up all the flex while the front is stiff and leveled.

Hope I can gain some insight from you. My sincere appreciation in advance!

Thank you!
Kai
01-01-2015 09:38 PM
Goatley Just enough to not worry no more if Imma break or not.
01-01-2015 09:32 PM
Bebe A lot of it depends on what you are starting with, and how bullet proof you want to go.
01-01-2015 09:10 PM
Goatley Wow wonder what this would cost to have done for my ifs truck
10-10-2014 11:13 PM
speedy Not sure how we missed posting this here

2006 Hummer H3 - Declaration Of Independence
09-20-2013 10:53 AM
77ford400 im no hummer guy but i must say that there H3 looks SEXY
09-19-2013 09:58 AM
Bebe You could check out Tech Tim's version at Wild West Off Road....

https://www.wildwestoffroad.com/cata...ts/cat_13.html

This is as close as you can get to a Kit. Then you will need to hire someone to install it.

Kits are tough, and a ground breaking as this build is, Tech Tim has taken it one step further. Yes, his is designed for Toyota, but IFS is IFS, and it could easily be adapted to any vehicle.
09-18-2013 11:16 PM
kinson33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornercarver82 View Post
You guys should put this together as a kit, I'd buy it. Absolutely incredible work...

x 2

Just read through the entire thread. Incredible stuff!
03-26-2013 04:13 PM
Cornercarver82 coming from a former modded duramax owner, yes you need the intercooler on those engines unless you detune the crap out of them, the reason alot of older small diesels dont have intercoolers is because...they dont have turbo's. The other reason is heat, cast iron handles heat and pressure much better than aluminum, which the duramax is entirely constructed from
03-12-2013 03:49 PM
Bebe
Quote:
Originally Posted by westracing01 View Post
I'd venture to guess there are a lot of pretty high dollar IFS trail rigs out there that aren't built as well as this thing is, let alone other H3's. Somewhere way back in this thread Bellydoc mentioned that this is the future of IFS, at least IFS for the common man. I don't understand why more people aren't building their rigs like this one, especially the later model trucks that have so much electronic junk in them.
Thank all, there are actually a lot of folks who are going this route, in fact Four Wheeler did one with a truck shortly after mine. More folks on here are looking at it, it's just take some courage to take that first step.

Honestly, I find most folks over-think it. It's not that scary in this way, because you're not building it from scratch. The problem is in the IFS world, folks don't share much info...
03-02-2013 06:24 PM
04colly
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornercarver82 View Post
You guys should put this together as a kit, I'd buy it. Absolutely incredible work, I'm still pretty new to the Hummer beyond what my unit has and I havent seen another H3 taken as far as yours. I saw the Bully Dog Duramax H3 but that truck just doesnt seem practical and without the intercooler I doubt it'll be relaible. Post up some vids of it on the trails/sand
You don't need a damn intercooler to make anything reliable. Lots of old diesels don't run them. There not really needed.
03-02-2013 01:14 PM
westracing01 I'd venture to guess there are a lot of pretty high dollar IFS trail rigs out there that aren't built as well as this thing is, let alone other H3's. Somewhere way back in this thread Bellydoc mentioned that this is the future of IFS, at least IFS for the common man. I don't understand why more people aren't building their rigs like this one, especially the later model trucks that have so much electronic junk in them.
03-02-2013 11:17 AM
Cornercarver82 You guys should put this together as a kit, I'd buy it. Absolutely incredible work, I'm still pretty new to the Hummer beyond what my unit has and I havent seen another H3 taken as far as yours. I saw the Bully Dog Duramax H3 but that truck just doesnt seem practical and without the intercooler I doubt it'll be relaible. Post up some vids of it on the trails/sand
02-26-2013 07:06 AM
westracing01 Been wanting to post this and kept forgetting. Excellent build. Has actually inspired me to change the direction I wanted to go with my rig. First time in a long time I have a pretty clear idea of where I want to go. Thank you!
02-07-2013 10:15 PM
PrarieDatsun Just read through the thread, and have to say that I love your build.

I really like the face that you kept the IFS, and built it like it should have been built.

You've got the only H3 I like.
02-04-2013 09:25 PM
cv6767 Thanks that helped a lot with my search now i know what i'm looking for.
02-04-2013 08:34 PM
R290
Quote:
Originally Posted by cv6767 View Post
What housing ends did you use on your front diff? I'm trying to work out doing the same with a chevy colorado and am having trouble finding any sort of housing ends for a dana 44
To me it looks like a ford big bearing flange. Search the thread for #20 bearing



http://www.partsmike.com/store/store...on=show_detail

02-04-2013 03:22 PM
cv6767 What housing ends did you use on your front diff? I'm trying to work out doing the same with a chevy colorado and am having trouble finding any sort of housing ends for a dana 44
01-28-2013 05:16 AM
Happy Hummer Wow,
Bebe, this is my second time thru this tread in many weeks and it was just great to see the rig is working soooo well for ya. I really just enjoyed it so much! lol
Glad to see the driveline corrected.
Liked the tube door thread also.

Chris
09-18-2012 07:00 PM
53guy Thanks a ton Bebe!
09-18-2012 06:40 PM
Bebe Sorry for the slow response, I couldn't remember which online catalog had the specs.

My tie rods are "custom" as are the clevis mounts, so this is the best I can get for you.

Napa's information is the most thorough



Quote:
Overall Length : 54 3/4"
P/S Rack & Pinion Line Thread Size : 2 3/8"
Rack & Pinion Input Shaft Dia. : 3/4"
Rack & Pinion Input Shaft Length : 2 1/4"
Overall length includes the Inner tie rods
09-15-2012 06:26 PM
53guy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bebe View Post
Steering Rack - 2008 3/4 ton Silverado
Do you happen to be able to measure the width from inner tie rod to inner tie rod of the rack? The build is amazing and an inspiration....I am about at a loss with what to do with my IFS. Great job!
This thread has more than 25 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

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