|04-01-2017 07:56 PM|
|ElkyRacer||If drilling through stainless, use mustard as a lubricant. We use it at work and have easily doubled the life of our drill bits and hole saws.|
|03-30-2017 07:36 AM|
For storing nut, bolts, screws, and nails I take a empty plastic oil can and cut the top off right where it starts to slope up towards the spout. They are rectangular and fit into a drawer or on a shelf etc. without all the lost space from a round container. Tip-clean the inside before use..
When taking out a bolt in a hard to reach place or starting a bolt in a hard to reach spot (Be careful not to crossthread) I put a small wadded up bit of Duct Tape or Masking Tape into the socket. It holds the bolt in the socket yet releases it once it is installed.
|01-28-2017 09:57 PM|
|tracyb||love my rivet fan! use it all the time|
|01-28-2017 09:24 PM|
|01-12-2017 12:08 PM|
|cousin_z||If you break a tap off in a blind hole, just get out your torch. The steel that the tap is made from has a high carbon content and will burn easily. Get it glowing good and bright and just bump the oxygen lever and the tap will disappear. You can also open the oxygen valve more than you normally do when adjusting your flame and let the oxidized flame eat away at the tap.|
|01-24-2016 04:56 PM|
I used to drink a lot of beer just so I could use the boxes for templates.
I found that aluminum roof flashing works better. It can be cut with scissors, is oil, fire,water and mouse resistant and you can punch your centermarks in it. You may be able to plasma right around it if you make it smaller by half your plasma's tip. I tried to get overly fancy and use magnets to hold it just above the material, but that didn't work well.
A radius arm mount:
|01-10-2016 10:20 AM|
I too prefer the metric system, but in a world where materials are dimensioned in inches this seemed like a decent compromise. If i need to think in inches for tube and so forth I can use the inch side of the tape. For point to point measurements or measurements that need to be added/divided/subtracted I use the engineers scale.
I would actually like to find a tape that had feet, inches, and tenth (even 1/20") inches. I think that would be very useful for what we do because you could just measure everything: tube, plate etc to the 1/20". All common materials with inch dimensions would have useful decimal equivalents, (i.e. 1 3/4" tube = 1.75" tube) which were easier to manipulate.
I actually thought that's what this was when i ordered it but it's still somewhat useful.
|01-10-2016 05:12 AM|
I needed to order some spare trailer axles, so I grabbed a tape and crawled under my trailer. I knew the spring perch distance I thought I needed. Used the tape and came up with a number that didn't make sense. Remeasured, still didn't make sense. I went and got another tape to compare thinking the first one might have stretched or been damaged. All the foot marks lined up, but the "inches" didn't.
I seriously considered tossing that tape into my contractor buddies truck for the ensuing funny, but decided against it.
Edit: Mine only had the tenths on it, not a combo tape like you're shown.
|01-10-2016 02:51 AM|
Not sure how many people know about these, but they can be very useful for layout and for measuring in general anytime when ~1/20" precision is adequate.
It's an engineers tape measure and it's graduated in 0.01', 0.1' and 1.0'.
It breaks feet into base ten like the metric system and lets you make measurements that are easier to add/subtract/divide quickly and without error.
For example: I wanted to space these slider supports out evenly over a 3.16' span.
3.16' / 4 = 0.79'
0.79' x 1 = 0.79'
0.79' x 2 = 1.58'
0.79' x 3 = 2.37'
0.79' x 4 = 3.16'
make marks at 0', 0.79', 1.58', 2.37' and 3.16' and done.
much easier than doing math on fractions or converting back and forth between them and decimal equivalents.
|01-02-2016 10:40 AM|
Tool and shop tips & tricks FAQ
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Awesome thread. Sub'd
|12-28-2015 02:20 AM|
Air Tool Hanger
We have quite a few air tools in our little shop. They are always getting scattered all over the place. So I made a cheap functional hanger for them.
1" square tubing. Drilled 7/16" holes every 3" then added a 5/8" slot under each hole. Works great.
|03-18-2015 07:08 PM|
We have a small 110V Lincoln MIG on one of those HF carts. Nice and small for those little jobs you don't want to have to bust out the big welder for... To make life easier, I mounted a 4 gang outlet box on the side of the cart with a 6" plug on the end. Now I can use a regular extension cord (we have a HD 12ga one for this purpose) to feed the cart, the welder is plugged into the box and we have a place to plug in a grinder or whatever as well. Not ever going to be a problem since you'll never be welding and grinding simultaneously anyway!
|03-18-2015 03:27 PM|
|12-31-2014 02:47 PM|
|12-30-2014 06:38 AM|
You guys ever see this?
|10-29-2014 10:01 PM|
Best garage I did recently was replace the 6' power cord on my Lincoln Mig Pak welder with a 25' RV extension cord (had to replace the male cord end).
I was going to simply make an extension cord but decided to just hardwire directly to the machine.
Every time I use the welder now I appreciate not having to be so close to the receptacle.
|09-12-2014 12:59 AM|
Break the ceramic off of and hollow out a spark plug, weld it to a male quick disconnect, slip on some 3/8" line and screw it in #1 so you can easily feel the compression stroke while you're laying on your back under the truck turning the engine over by hand.
Oh and obviously it only works when you paint it gold. (Made it easy to spot in the toolbox).
|04-20-2014 04:25 AM|
Just a few tips i have used over the years in my trade.
1. I use lard when tapping threads. It's cheaper than that Tap magic shit and works better imo.
2. Ever break a bolt off even with the surface of whatever it is stuck in? I find a nut with the ID roughly same size as the bolt and place it over the broken bolt. I build a little tit up on the center of the bolt using a mig,and then jump the arc over to the nut and fill the ID of the nut in. Let it cool,take a wrench and back it out. "Note this is not a sure fire way but it does work in some instances"
3. I use WD40 if i have to turn copper for a cutting fluid. Works great and leaves a nice surface finish.
4. If iam milling gussets or brackets ect ect. I stack a few together and tack them so that i dont have to repeat my setup's over and over and it goes alot quicker.
5. When you are using transfer punches to transfer holes, You don't have to hit it like you are beating some tweaker to death for trying to steal your stuff. It ruins them, dull's the tips. Just enough of a tap to mark the steel is all you need. You can use a regular punch to deepen the indention to stop a drill bit from walking.
Im sure 90% of you already know this stuff and or have better alternatives. Just throwing my .02 out there for what i use.
|02-15-2014 01:57 PM|
another magnetizing trick that I don't believe was hit. get a couple of magnets from old hard drives. and swipe your screwdriver from handle to tip then remove from magnets and repeat a few times. much like using a butchers steel. to De-magnatize swipe the other way. CAUTION these magnets are fucking strong if you get a set out of a TB or larger driver and your finger gets in between them it WILL give you a blood blister. these are also the best magnets for tool recovery just tie a string on,
Another harddrive magnet tip. if you have ever seen "Gun Magnets" at a gun show they are just hard drive magnets. you can mount them under furniture and the little 1x2x.125 magnet will support a loaded 1911
|01-31-2014 05:49 PM|
For stained concrete floors a friend of mine who happens to be an Aircraft mechanic (a&p,a&i) uses an old Windex bottle with avgas or just gasoline and a rag for oil and grease stains also works good for cleaning surfaces with no paint in general.
Some really great stuff here! Subd!
When I changed a power steering line on my chevy, i didnt have the right size wrench I think it was like 21mm and I had 20 and 22 and an adjustable wouldnt fit so i used a 24mm with a shim and it worked fine. But i wouldnt recommend this if you can avoid it
When you have to hold a nut in place and you cant get your hand in place, use masking tape on the combo wrench.
ATF works wonders on many things, after all it is mainly detergent, a friend of my dads who was a mechanic in the Coast Guard said that they covered everything on the boats in ATF, For as long as I remember my dad has wiped guns down with ATF to prevent corrosion.
I always have to squirt cans of Oil with flex necks on them, one ATF and one waste oil, and use them on almost every project assembly and dis-assembly
|01-20-2014 09:50 AM|
|01-20-2014 09:45 AM|
Impact like a hammer blow can cause the rollers in the bearing to leave little dimples in the bearing race (or flat spots in the rollers) which can cause them to fail pre-maturely. Remember, you wheel bearings are cushioned from hard impacts by the tire and the suspension, hammers don't have any give and the shock gets absorbed by the bearings.
|12-20-2013 10:40 AM|
Did the same on exhaust manifold nuts that hadn't been pulled in 230K miles. They broke loose easily and unscrewed with my fingers.
|11-25-2013 05:55 PM|
|Zi||An easy (manual) air compressor drain: one of those 1/4" NPT truck air tank drains with a lanyard. You just pull the lanyard and hold it for a few seconds. They're like $5-10. Mine has a 4' lanyard with a loop at the end; I hang it over part of the compressor switch box.|
|11-23-2013 05:35 AM|
Biggest problem is you can't store it in a spray bottle because not only do they separate but acetone will eat through plastic after a while. That and acetone is flammable as shit. I had seized upper LCA bolts on my XJ and used it on them and had it run down the control arms. I had my Jeep up in the air with a cheater bar pulling the LCAs down to get them back in the axle and slipped with the bar. Just the friction from that was enough to ignite the acetone on the LCA.
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