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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-15-2012 09:16 PM
Mr Bridger .......well I would hate to see it sent to the scrap yard.
02-15-2012 07:44 PM
def9090 I want the 86" for the narrower cab, it will be a tube ass that i will be able totack the skins on when needed for comps, as for wasting a 86" its this or let it be land fill
02-15-2012 04:55 PM
Mr Bridger
Quote:
Originally Posted by PTSchram View Post
I assumed it would be a trayback.
Still doesn't make much sense? Better to build a stronger cab from scratch like the comp trialers with integrated roll cage than ruin a 86" LR.
02-15-2012 10:39 AM
PTSchram
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bridger View Post
If you are shooting for a 106"-110" wheelbase, why are you bothering to put a Series I 86" body on it?

Just a question.
I assumed it would be a trayback.
02-15-2012 09:14 AM
Mr Bridger If you are shooting for a 106"-110" wheelbase, why are you bothering to put a Series I 86" body on it?

Just a question.
02-14-2012 06:59 PM
def9090 At least it will fit through the start gate cones
02-13-2012 05:32 PM
Micka
Quote:
Originally Posted by def9090 View Post
66" too narrow? Pfft whatever, go back to your harbour bridge, oh i mean upper link mounts
1650mm = 64.9"

You should change its name to a dog's name cause its best trick will be rolling over
02-12-2012 03:29 PM
def9090 An the btw, i like ass! Ass is gooooood!!
02-12-2012 03:28 PM
def9090 66" too narrow? Pfft whatever, go back to your harbour bridge, oh i mean upper link mounts
02-12-2012 12:54 AM
Micka Too narrow.

This thing will handle like an ass.
02-11-2012 03:56 PM
def9090 wms to wms will be roughly 1650mm approx 200mm narrower then stock 406.
02-04-2012 05:53 PM
def9090 hey bill, yeah i will make the front the same track as the rear - yes i have someone local to make axles for the front, as for the exact track i will measure WMS to WMS next time i'm out there (hopefully this coming week), mogs are too wode for competition these days (my opinion anyway), i want the rig to be as small as possible, i'd rather play with negative offset on the rims to acheive track then massive positive offset to narrow them up. wheelbase will probably be aound 106-110, it will be plenty stable if i can keep COG low as possible and have good link geometry. in theory at least....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Agrover View Post
Yes I'm with you Sam. How much narrower, and what will the rear track width be? Will you be narrowing the front the same amount? If so will that involve custom shafts? What wheelbase will you be aiming for? I haven't followed Tuff Truck for a few years, but last video I saw, lateral, longditudal and diagonal stability seemed to be some of the qualities required to do well. Think the rig will be stable enough?
bill.
02-04-2012 02:22 PM
Agrover
Quote:
Originally Posted by def9090 View Post
hey Bill, running the rear centered as i want to narrow the track somewhat, and rather then get axles made to have the rear offset to driver, i will just run a funky angle on my tail shaft and cut the long side down to a short side length, obvioulsy on the front though to clear the sump i will have to swap the pinion from passenger to drivers side to mate to the LT, otherwise i would do the same to front. this make sense?
Yes I'm with you Sam. How much narrower, and what will the rear track width be? Will you be narrowing the front the same amount? If so will that involve custom shafts? What wheelbase will you be aiming for? I haven't followed Tuff Truck for a few years, but last video I saw, lateral, longditudal and diagonal stability seemed to be some of the qualities required to do well. Think the rig will be stable enough?
bill.
02-03-2012 06:10 PM
def9090 hey Bill, running the rear centered as i want to narrow the track somewhat, and rather then get axles made to have the rear offset to driver, i will just run a funky angle on my tail shaft and cut the long side down to a short side length, obvioulsy on the front though to clear the sump i will have to swap the pinion from passenger to drivers side to mate to the LT, otherwise i would do the same to front. this make sense?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Agrover View Post
Sam,Why do you want to run a centred rear diff with offset LT230 transfercase?
Isn't the Mog front diff offset to the left side? How would you run the front propshaft to it, mount the transfercase back to front?
AG.
02-03-2012 01:13 AM
Micka
Quote:
Originally Posted by Agrover View Post
How about leaving the diffs stock and swinging the LT230 through 180 degrees so that the outputs are on the left hand side? The range change and difflock selector shafts seals will be submerged in oil, and being Rover they will no doubt leak, but should still get through a days competition before a topup is required.
AG.
Dunno, Bill. I'm sure Sam will chime in when he and Mick G have been over all of their options. From what he told me though, he doesn't want to be full width on the diffs anyway, so either way, they are going to cut into the tubes. May aswell leave the LT in a position where it's only factory fitted leaks that will occur.
02-02-2012 11:27 PM
Agrover
Quote:
Originally Posted by Micka View Post
I understand that they'll be offsetting the pumpkin to the (aus) driver's side and lengthening the tube on the pass side to make up the width. Either way he'll need to cut and shut the front diff, so I assume he'll just leave the LT in stock position and just mod the diff, rather than do both.

How about leaving the diffs stock and swinging the LT230 through 180 degrees so that the outputs are on the left hand side? The range change and difflock selector shafts seals will be submerged in oil, and being Rover they will no doubt leak, but should still get through a days competition before a topup is required.
AG.
02-02-2012 10:50 PM
Micka I understand that they'll be offsetting the pumpkin to the (aus) driver's side and lengthening the tube on the pass side to make up the width. Either way he'll need to cut and shut the front diff, so I assume he'll just leave the LT in stock position and just mod the diff, rather than do both.
02-02-2012 07:47 PM
Agrover Sam,Why do you want to run a centred rear diff with offset LT230 transfercase?
Isn't the Mog front diff offset to the left side? How would you run the front propshaft to it, mount the transfercase back to front?
AG.
02-02-2012 05:58 PM
def9090
sloooowwww truggish type build, project 'Donkey'

ok so i'll probably get heckled no end for a post with bugger all in it, but i figure if i post something now it will motivate me to get a cracking with building it.

plan - within 6 months build a budget rover based vehicle to our 'tuff truck' specs, hopefully to compete next year (march) and get plenty of seat time before then. it will be a slow build as i have never embarked on such a mission before, and i am building with a mate (who is very handy with building rigs) but lives 65k'sfrom me

Specs
1956 series one body
donor car 96 disco - probably use chassis from b pillar to 300mm past a pillar, the rest tube - otherwise use a suzuki sierra chassis
3.9 rover V8
ZF auto
LT230 Xfer, with rear disconnect
406 mogs - rear cut down and narrowed to run 2 short side axles (center pinion) as i have a spare set of diffs, front narrowed to same width but with drivers side drop for LT, disk brakes machined down, etc
rear dble triangulated 4 link - 1.25" ruff stuff heims,
front nearly parrallel uppers and triangulated lowers - 1.25" ruffstuff heims
T6/7 links all round
2.0" x 16" racerunner remote res coilovers
2.0" x 4" racerunner bumps
dble ended hydro rams - front and rear havent decided on hydro setup
40+" stickies
17" home made beadlocks, to get exact offset we'll be after
blah, blah, blah

so i was supposed to start nearly a yr ago but got held up by missus having a kid (bit inconsiderate really) so finally made a little start y'day - pulled portals partially apart for a check, reassembled and starting measuring for my mate to cut down the tubes.

anyways donor body -



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