|01-13-2014 05:32 PM|
onetonxj's didnt, mine will clear because my mounts are probably further out than his and i used a small diameter ds to help it clear.
|01-13-2014 03:51 PM|
Mine did not. But that's also attributed to the fact that my lowers are angled inboard and the mount just so happens to fall directly inline with the driveshaft. At full drop, my shaft would have collided with the mount.
At this point, its only costing me 2" of driver drop. So until I find a permanent solution, I simply limited my drop on that side. (Limit strap.)
Also would depend on how high you have the front output clocked.
Hope that helps.
|01-13-2014 09:34 AM|
|connerharris20||I am looking to flip the 231/300 in my xj. I am worried about my long arm cross member. Will it clear the front drive shaft?|
|10-25-2012 06:24 AM|
|10-24-2012 11:51 PM|
|AgitatedPancake||6 gear planetary in a 231 would be almost as good, but the 241 front case half has way more ribbing in the aluminum which would help hold up to the stresses and weights of a doubler setup. The 205 may be heavy, but it's a gear driven tcase with 32 splne outputs and a 1.96:1 gear ratio. Combining that with the 2.72 of a 231/242/241 is way better than having two sets of 1.96. Besides, you normally have a support off the rear case so the strength of the aluminum isn't needed as much|
|10-24-2012 10:35 PM|
|DRICH394||you can drop 6 gear plant into the 231 half, just find the Dorango shit. the 205 is just a heavy turd on an aluminum front half.. just IMO - but I do like the 203/205 set up, my Wife's rig is got this -|
|10-24-2012 07:28 PM|
|AgitatedPancake||Honestly, I wish I saw more 241/205 doublers. The length isn't much worse than a 231/300, but you get 6 gear planetaries in the front case, the option for a 31 or 32 spline intermediary shaft (inputs of the 205), and 32 spline front and rear outputs on the bulletproof 205. The gear ratios are 1:1, 1.96:1, 2.72:1 and 5.38:1, a nicely geared 4 speed setup.|
|10-24-2012 07:08 PM|
|ONEtonXJ||whats up with these NWF tripple shifters??? heard a lot about them but never even seen a picture of them.... whats included? how much??|
|10-24-2012 06:35 PM|
well, i guess i can still snap the driveshafts.
|10-24-2012 04:24 PM|
My doubler cost:
Dana 300: $100
231: free.. I also found a 231d I think it was... Stole the planetary out of it and put it in my 231.. More info in my build thread, but it has 6 planetary gears vs the np231's 4...
D&D machine's doubler kit: 500 shipped
Dana 300 rebuild kit from napa I believe it was: 120
Shifters: wrecking yard cables, free... More info in my build thread
Fluids: 30 and counting cuz my shit leaks
Soooo: 750 total???
Mine isn't driver drop but it is behind an aw4......
|10-24-2012 03:18 PM|
|10-24-2012 06:58 AM|
i have lots of pics of the 231/300 & shifter setup in my naxja build thread, including how this is a big load of fail. i sold all the doubler crap & bought a 4 speed atlas & now it is full of win. on tons & 42's.
Knucklehead's blog - NAXJA Forums -::- North American XJ Association
|10-23-2012 08:22 PM|
my price breakdown:
dana 300 $200
used 231 doubler kit $450
used 32 spline rear output $375
had the 241 case for planitaries
$925 total and i still need shifters, everything was bought off this board over the course of 3-4 months.
GW post up some pics, i know you fabed up some clean setup
|10-23-2012 04:01 PM|
Ive got about 800 into mine and I machined my own doubler plates at work, saving me almost 300. I also machined and made my own shifters...saving another...Idk, $100-300 or so.
Midshaft from Duffy---265
Dana 300 rebuild kit---120
Materials in my own plates/ shifters--95
Bolts and fluids...30
And yes, the doubler is damn near the same length as a stock 231. Note: thats NOT a 231 with a SYE....but a bone stock 231.
Hardest part for me....nothing. Very straight forward. Well....actually postoning on the seats with the custom floor Ibuilt got a little crazy. Bu if you have a stock floorpan... couple whacks with a BFH outta take care of any issues.
|10-22-2012 03:26 PM|
How much money and time are u guys investing in these doubler projects?
What is the hardest part of the whole process?
Will a doubler with 5.38s be too Low???
I'll be able to do it no problem... I just really don't feel like having to build a new custom Xmember/belly pan.
Maybe I'll build a doubler & set it on the shelf until my 231 shits itself,
then upgrade everything.
|10-21-2012 01:42 PM|
|10-21-2012 11:52 AM|
Everyone says the 231/300 is approx the same length as a stock 231j,
I just don't see how it could be. It looks like the front 231 box & clocking ring is WAY longer than 6".
This is the set up I plan on upgrading too as well, a custom crossmember is a must. I would think cutting an access hole in the floor would be a HUGE help, then build a bolt-down cover for the floor access. That's no biggie.
I like your custom rusty bushed-lever shifters. They look fail-proof and easy to shift.
My rig is 112" WB, but if planned this upgrade in a stock wheelbase Jeep,
I would stretch the rear FIRST before considering this mod. My .02
|03-27-2012 04:57 PM|
Looking under drivers seat, hole is big because drivetrain is pulled 3" crooked since hole was cut to facilitate driveshaft angles.
Looking under passenger seat at hole for 231.
Hope this helps
|03-27-2012 02:49 PM|
|88jp||The Rods are 1/2" tool steel. They don't bend. I am nit using a bushing on the shifter. I use a 1/2" bolt. The took a piece of 1" round stock. Hooked it up on a lathe and turned the out side true. Then drilled a little hole. I then turned the inside to fit the 1/2" bolt nice. Used hiem joint on the shifter end. Makes it easyer to shift.|
|03-26-2012 04:44 PM|
|03-18-2012 06:21 AM|
I like how you set up to shift the 300. Simple and little chance of failure.
Couple questions on it.
What size rod did you use for the shifters? Can use feel any bending when you shift?
And also....are you using bushings on that pivot bolt? (Arrow in green.)
Or are those just washers between the seperate shift handles? (Circled in Red.)
|02-28-2012 05:00 PM|
|(o)(o)xj||I'm runnin the nwf shifters and they are schmooooth, but kinda spendy, if yours is set as flat as mine I recommend running the 231 shifter like I did, silly simple and smooth and user friendly when wheeling.|
|02-28-2012 03:24 PM|
I totally missed the text under your last post. No need to pull the seats and I'll buy a round if Im down that way anyways!
I whallowed out 3 holes to check 2 positions. Ended up going with the same way yours is. I need to get out and notch my crossmember a tad and test fit again but where it was as looked like I would be ok seat wise. Kinda hard to tell with a 3'x5' hole in the floorboard.
And to DRich, I plan on doing my own cables. I'll post up what I come up with.
|02-28-2012 07:49 AM|
BoobieXj....thats what im gunna call you (0)(0).... I spyed out your build thread ealier but thanks for the extra shots you brought in here. One question....any issues mounting the pass seat? Mine is gonna be close once I get everything patched back
Ha, most call me Jake, and no, even with the combo pulled way to the passenger side the seat still fit with no mods, the underside does touch the point of the 231, don't guess it matters though and I have no intentions of patching the floor. If I can get away I'll pull the seats this week, working on my quick release steering wheel right now.
|02-28-2012 05:51 AM|
How long have you been running it for?
What kinda u-joints did you go with for it?
Pics of shifter setup?
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