|12-04-2013 03:55 PM|
|Billy_Bottle_Caps||Great thread nice build good tech. Thanks for posting, learning a lot|
|12-04-2013 11:57 AM|
|12-04-2013 11:47 AM|
I would make your own pump bracket, its easy. Plus to prevent cavitation it needs to be much lower than any of the ones on the market.
|12-04-2013 10:54 AM|
Oh, I'd run a spare reservoir somewhere for sure.
I'm seeing the kit though...
This what you're talking about?: GM Saginaw P pump to 1.3L engine bracket kit
|12-04-2013 10:48 AM|
Only gave the list a quick scan, but looks like a good combo. Only thing I'd question would be resi size if you're running a single ended ram. quite a bit of displacement difference left to right causes a pretty decent rise/fall in fluid level. Too small of a resi will overflow / suck air on the extreme ends of that. pretty easy to calculate volume difference of ram & volume of resi for comparison though.
FWIW, urban rockcrawler offers pretty complete kits if you go with a P pump instead of a TC. You can order pump, hose, bracket all from them for about $125. (i prefer the TC, but plenty of guys running the P pump, & every parts house in the country has on on shelf))
|12-04-2013 10:33 AM|
I'm home now on my lunch break so I can dig a little more into this.
Here's is what I see:
Saginaw TC pump to 1.3L engine bracket kit (with the weld on pulley) - $75
More Information for DORMAN 300302 - $13
For pumps I see these two:
Product Detail - $76
Product Detail - $99
One has the filtration system and the other doesn't. Not sure if that's something I should consider.
Then I'll need a belt which I have no idea what to use there.
This looking any better at all?
|12-04-2013 09:56 AM|
So just a Chevy saginaw pump with that bracket? I'm guessing I'll have to run a different pulley though. Be neat if I could just run a larger serp belt than the one I have now but I don't think that's how it works. TT has a crank pulley that has both the V and a Flat on it. I imagine I'd need that and run a belt to the PS pump.
supazuk left me a voicemail on my phone that I'm going to listen to again. He told me a wrangler pump would work too.
|12-04-2013 07:12 AM|
You're putting a non-typical style steering system on a vehicle, you're going to be piecing together whether you buy from PSC or the parts house.
What Orbital displacement are you running? I have doubts whether the track/kick pump will keep up with it. Never tried it, but here's what I have; I tried full hydro (7.6 cu in) on a stock toyota (22r) pump. Wouldn't keep up when trying to steer quickly (scary trying much faster than a few MPH). I've also been a part of running a OEM Toyota IFS box w/ assist on a track/kick pump (OEM Toyota pump keeps up with this combo pretty decent), & it didn't flow quite enough to keep up.
Get an urban rockcrawler pump bracket & run either a P-pump, or a TC pump from the parts house. Get a cheap adapter from the pump to JIC hose fitting, & plumb the whole system with cheap JIC fittings from Surplus center. M2C
|12-03-2013 05:56 PM|
Orbital valve came in the other day. So there's a large part down. Now I need to get a pump. I'm just going to do a Track/Kick pump. I'm seeing that I can use a 92-97 pump from a Geo Tracker. RockAuto has that for $125. Am I going to need any bracketry to mount that to the block? Friend of mine says that I use the existing holes but I'm not sure on that. TT has a kit for $175, but it includes the brackets for the box too which I don't need. I also see the pulley on there but not sure of the belt.
All in all, I want the simplest, least amount of fabrication, and cheapest way to get a power steering pump on there. Don't care what it is or where it comes from. Just want to be able to use NAPA, RockAuto, AA, etc., get a pump, and call it a day. I'm rather frustrated by piecing things together, only having to spend more in the long run to get everything to fit right. Just get a pump. Serp belt. Some bracket. And plumb it.
|11-08-2013 07:51 AM|
No problem, Pm me your mailing address.
and shirt size
|11-07-2013 07:19 PM|
Jst tacked. Won't be fully welded until i get it slung under there in teh spring time.
That'd be cool if you sent them. I was going to try to cut up some stock and weld that to it. But if you have em', that be bad ass.
|11-07-2013 07:17 PM|
|TOYOTAPARTS||Are they all welded on or just tacked? I could send some.|
|11-07-2013 06:19 PM|
|JM93LiftedYJ||Erm, none that I saw?|
|11-07-2013 06:17 PM|
|11-03-2013 06:20 PM|
Thats why I havent jumped to toys. It seems dumb to me to do such an elaborate conversion but put on used junkyard bearings and brake pads. I'll end up having to rip it all apart and replace some of that used stuff within a year so I'll end up having to buy it twice.
|10-31-2013 08:32 PM|
Here is something I may consider doing:
Suzuki 1.3 1200 Series pump kit with crank pulley-PK1200S1.3 : Pump Systems and Components, 0 | PSC Motorsports - performance steering components
Run that to a TSC single ended 8" ram and call it a day. Hrm.
|10-31-2013 08:04 PM|
Junkyard parts, man. Calipers, rotors, bearings, even brake pads if they've got life left.
Along that same vein, mount up a generic saginaw pump. It is well documented which ones to look for for high displacement. Junkyard trans cooler for the PS cooler, weld up some brackets, extend the filler neck on the stock res for some added capacity, napa will make you hoses for cheap er than that kit.
Go hydro assist, not full hydro. Assist can be done dirt cheap without being a forklift mechanic.
|10-31-2013 04:29 PM|
So I'm still working on the brakes right now, and I've decided that I need to start going with the kits. This whole piece work I did with the brakes was a disaster. Spent more on fitting parts than if I just got the kit.
My next focus will be steering.
That doesn't include the ram and orbital. I mean, roughly $1100 for full hydro? Really?
Can I shave that down any? Perhaps just a plastic reservoir off a whatever? I really want to keep down the mismatched parts. I'm terrible at it and in the end, it costs me more if I just went with the prefabbed kit. If I really have to order the above picture to avoid wrong parts, belts, pulleys, lines, fittings, and all that bullshit I guess I'll wait until after Christmas to do it. It never, ever works out for me. All I read about with the disc brake conversion was "I did it for under $100". Bullshit. I spent $25 in hardware, $120 in calipers, $60 in rotors, a $30 drill bit, $40 in lugs/studs, and I'm still not done. I already have close to $2000 in the axles as it is. I still have steering, another truss, front brakes, u-bolts, and grease/oil to buy. I'm willing to bet I'll have close to $4000 in these axles by the time I'm done.
But yea, cheaper steering than what I posted? Or will that be my best bet? This thing is really kicking my ass.
|10-18-2013 08:06 PM|
A tip to get the brackets for the discs to line up. Install your rotors, then assemble the calipers and bolt the brackets. Put shop air to the calipers to "clamp" them to the rotor. Tack the bracket to the axle tube. Release the air and check the fit and operation. Should be golden!
|10-18-2013 03:44 PM|
There's a couple things off the list:
I figure AAP will be my best deal. My folks in MA live 3m from a store. If it doesn't work out, I'll just have Dad swing by and return it. That and it was the cheapest by FAR.
Just get the fittings and a roll of brake line and I should be all set with the rear. Really hoping that the brackets, rotors, and calipers line up properly. Not the best at piecing things together. I'll tackle the proportioning valve and 1" master cylinder later.
Steering should be good too. The more I think about it, I may ultimately just go with a Chevy pump, orbital valve, and a ram from TSC. Still not 100% on it, but I think that way will give me the least amount of issues. Yea, its expensive but it should be a one shot deal.
EDIT: Well shit, can't order the rotors. Called and the guy said to wait a week. Ordered the calipers and pads though. Maybe I can get the rotors from NAPA or something.
|10-15-2013 05:37 PM|
|10-02-2013 07:39 PM|
|10-02-2013 07:31 PM|
|||sleeve the breather, better yet, weld the sleeve to the axletube, then put the bung at the top of that. Don't leave places for it to trap mud.|
|10-02-2013 06:57 PM|
Here's the video:
But for some reason its not loading the pages. Keeps telling me a 502 error?
|10-02-2013 06:44 PM|
|JM93LiftedYJ||One concern that occurred to me was my anti wrap bar. Right now its on a stock samurai axle. Well, the axle is offset. So the current location may end up interfering with the Toyota third member since that axle is centered. On the other side of the bar I'm using a typical shackle. There's a 3/4 heim on that side. Does the anti wrap bar need to be parallel to the frame? Or can I kick it off to the side just a little? The heim should take up the slack right? I have poly bushings on the axle side; worse comes to worse I could just use 3/4 heims on that side too. But does the antiwrap bar need to be straight on?|
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