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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-23-2016 10:22 AM
aribelin
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ Lagos View Post
While working on my swap in an XJ, I found two different 5v reference from the factory PCM. Assuming TJ is the same, one is used for Crank/Cam sensors and a separate one is used for engine oil and VSS. I'd imagine using wrong 5v reference pin could cause problems with the gauge. Since you are using a separate speedometer, maybe verify the oil pressure sensor is connected to the right 5v reference?

Hth,

CJ
Using the factory speedometer, aftermarket tach. I've read on several forums that the 2006 oil pressure gauge requires crank signal. I guess my dash panel is going back to Redline for another gauge swap Redline told me that about 1 in 10 TJ tach swaps also have the oil pressure gauge swapped so I'm guess that they are the 2005-6's that run a different data network.
06-20-2016 12:10 PM
cheapthrillb2
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ Lagos View Post
While working on my swap in an XJ, I found two different 5v reference from the factory PCM. Assuming TJ is the same, one is used for Crank/Cam sensors and a separate one is used for engine oil and VSS. I'd imagine using wrong 5v reference pin could cause problems with the gauge. Since you are using a separate speedometer, maybe verify the oil pressure sensor is connected to the right 5v reference?

Hth,

CJ
Fwiw I reused my stock tcase and stock vss. Speedometer worked while oil pressure didn't (until tach worked).
06-20-2016 12:02 PM
CJ Lagos
Quote:
Originally Posted by aribelin View Post
Pulled the harness back apart to trace the oil pressure sender wire. The wire is intact from the sender to the PCM. Any ideas now on where to go to figure out why the gauge doesn't work? This is the ONLY thing left to figure out.
While working on my swap in an XJ, I found two different 5v reference from the factory PCM. Assuming TJ is the same, one is used for Crank/Cam sensors and a separate one is used for engine oil and VSS. I'd imagine using wrong 5v reference pin could cause problems with the gauge. Since you are using a separate speedometer, maybe verify the oil pressure sensor is connected to the right 5v reference?

Hth,

CJ
06-17-2016 09:43 AM
cheapthrillb2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brant Campbell View Post
You don't really have to take the cluster apart.. Just pull it and take the bulb out the back.
Also helps if there was actual bulbs to remove.

06-16-2016 04:22 PM
cheapthrillb2 Mines an 04.
06-16-2016 04:04 PM
aribelin Talked to Redline this week about the oil pressure gauge issue. They said that about 1 in 10 tach swaps for TJ dashes also order an oil pressure gauge swap. Unfortunately, they don't keep records for what version of the TJ the dashes are out of. I'm guessing that the ones with the issues are '05-6's that have newer PCM driven dashes.
06-16-2016 03:40 PM
cheapthrillb2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brant Campbell View Post
Weird... I drill and tap the fitting above the oil filter. I've done it on both LS swaps I have done. I swapped a mustang about a year ago too.
What does swapping an LS into a ford have to do with getting a factory jeep oil pressure gauge to operate?
06-16-2016 03:38 PM
cheapthrillb2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brant Campbell View Post
You don't really have to take the cluster apart.. Just pull it and take the bulb out the back.
Still have to disassemble the cluster to gain access. Only bulbs accessible w/o disassembly are the dash lights (ones that turn on with headlights).
06-16-2016 01:20 PM
Brant Campbell
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapthrillb2 View Post
How about disabling the engine and air bag lights on the factory cluster? W/o taking the cluster apart. 04 LJ.

I have full hyd. Steering so I removed the clock spring and replaced the wheel with a aftermarket w/quick release.
You don't really have to take the cluster apart.. Just pull it and take the bulb out the back.
06-15-2016 08:05 AM
Brant Campbell
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapthrillb2 View Post
The factory LS oil sender port. Bought the thread adapter to screw the jeep oil sender into that spot.

Maybe it's a year thing, Mines an 04. Oil pressure gauge didn't work. Ran through all the wiring (twice). No issue found. Bought Novak tach emulator, installed it, now my oil pressure gauge works. No other changes made.

And yes, I'm sure I put it in a spot to read oil pressure
Weird... I drill and tap the fitting above the oil filter. I've done it on both LS swaps I have done. I swapped a mustang about a year ago too.
06-14-2016 12:35 PM
cheapthrillb2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brant Campbell View Post
I used 2010 Camaro headers and I had to clearance the passenger motor mount. I got them to work, but the truck headers probably would have worked with no mods. The drivers side header worked like a charm.
My drivers side upper like mount was pretty much exactly in the spot I would of needed the flange for the Camaro to be. If I did a 3 link I could if easily done a crossover pipe. But the drivers side upper link bar eats up all the real estate through its up travel.

The exhaust manifolds dump out and both side immediately bend up and over the upper link mounts and run along the inside of the frame rail.
06-14-2016 12:29 PM
cheapthrillb2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brant Campbell View Post
Not true.. My tach still doesn't work, and my oil pressure works fine. Let me dig through the wiring diagrams. Where do you have the sender screwed into the block?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brant Campbell View Post
Where is your sender in your block? You sure you have oil pressure? lol
The factory LS oil sender port. Bought the thread adapter to screw the jeep oil sender into that spot.

Maybe it's a year thing, Mines an 04. Oil pressure gauge didn't work. Ran through all the wiring (twice). No issue found. Bought Novak tach emulator, installed it, now my oil pressure gauge works. No other changes made.

And yes, I'm sure I put it in a spot to read oil pressure
06-14-2016 08:52 AM
Brant Campbell
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapthrillb2 View Post
I bought 2010 camaro manifolds. Wouldn't work. Mine has a 4 link front. Ended up reusing the stock truck manifolds (05). Ran them true duals. No way I could package a crossover pipe. Running Flowmaster hush power mufflers.
I used 2010 Camaro headers and I had to clearance the passenger motor mount. I got them to work, but the truck headers probably would have worked with no mods. The drivers side header worked like a charm.
06-14-2016 08:49 AM
Brant Campbell
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapthrillb2 View Post
I bought 2010 camaro manifolds. Wouldn't work. Mine has a 4 link front. Ended up reusing the stock truck manifolds (05). Ran them true duals. No way I could package a crossover pipe. Running Flowmaster hush power mufflers.
The Y pipe on mine is hugged close under the oil pan, and there's no way it would get in the way of any suspension parts. Mine sounds awesome with 2.25" Y pipe into single 2.5" muffler. I'll have to take some pics of it.
06-14-2016 08:48 AM
Brant Campbell
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapthrillb2 View Post
I had to get the factory tach to work for my oil pressure gauge to function.
Where is your sender in your block? You sure you have oil pressure? lol
06-14-2016 08:47 AM
Brant Campbell
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapthrillb2 View Post
I had to get the factory tach to work for my oil pressure gauge to function.
Not true.. My tach still doesn't work, and my oil pressure works fine. Let me dig through the wiring diagrams. Where do you have the sender screwed into the block?
06-13-2016 03:49 PM
cheapthrillb2
Quote:
Originally Posted by godlikedodge View Post
What size pipe did you run? I'm looking to run true duals back on mine as well. But I picked up some Hooker block headers as Dave's Recommended them. During mock up they did look to fit well.
2.5"

Shits tight, but it fits. Didn't have alot of options with how low I built it and the 4 link setup.






Fits under a normal garage door height. Next to my buggy on 42s. Jeeps on 40s. Between the four link, engine skid, I don't have a whole lot of room.
06-13-2016 09:50 AM
matts88yj For exhaust I ran Sanderson headers in both the bare steel finish and then painted and also the ceramic coated versions. The steel ones did not hold up very well at all and I hate to say it but the ceramic coated versions didn't fair that much better. I want to say the steel ones lasted about 2 years and the ceramic ones about 3 years. Both sets cracked in the collector areas and caused serious exhaust leaks.

I had the entire Jeep back up to the exhaust shop to make sure nothing else was putting stress on the system. They stated that there wasn't but I found out otherwise when I dropped the exhaust from the headers. Mine has the driver side pipe crossing over in front of the oil pan sump and then merges with the passenger side collector. That runs as a single all the way to the back.

When I get around to doing it all over I'm going to go with the Magnaflow stainless coated units. From everything I have seen and read about them they seem to do well. There are a few different versions out there but Magnaflow 700005 seems to be the ones that fit the best in a tighter engine bay.
06-13-2016 09:17 AM
godlikedodge
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapthrillb2 View Post
I bought 2010 camaro manifolds. Wouldn't work. Mine has a 4 link front. Ended up reusing the stock truck manifolds (05). Ran them true duals. No way I could package a crossover pipe. Running Flowmaster hush power mufflers.
What size pipe did you run? I'm looking to run true duals back on mine as well. But I picked up some Hooker block headers as Dave's Recommended them. During mock up they did look to fit well.
06-12-2016 07:40 PM
cheapthrillb2 I bought 2010 camaro manifolds. Wouldn't work. Mine has a 4 link front. Ended up reusing the stock truck manifolds (05). Ran them true duals. No way I could package a crossover pipe. Running Flowmaster hush power mufflers.
06-12-2016 06:56 PM
cj3a
headers?

i'm gathering the materials to do this when i get home from Kuwait(november)
so far i'm at the engine/trans/pcm and stock harness out of an 06 5.3 sierra.
going into a YJ. the only thing that intimidates me about this project is the exhaust.

i was hoping some of you veterans would provide some insight on your experiences and how they worked out.
thanks

06-11-2016 06:19 AM
cheapthrillb2
Quote:
Originally Posted by aribelin View Post
Pulled the harness back apart to trace the oil pressure sender wire. The wire is intact from the sender to the PCM. Any ideas now on where to go to figure out why the gauge doesn't work? This is the ONLY thing left to figure out.

Shift tower (built by Campbell Racing) completed, and installed:

I had to get the factory tach to work for my oil pressure gauge to function.
06-10-2016 02:56 PM
toolegit86 started on mine.. daves customs mounts and trans is still up in the air.. 700r4 or th350 tcases the same 231 crawl box to flipped 300

06-10-2016 02:05 PM
aribelin Pulled the harness back apart to trace the oil pressure sender wire. The wire is intact from the sender to the PCM. Any ideas now on where to go to figure out why the gauge doesn't work? This is the ONLY thing left to figure out.

Shift tower (built by Campbell Racing) completed, and installed:

06-03-2016 07:19 AM
Brant Campbell



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