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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-19-2015 06:29 PM
kleyba hello i have an lq4 in my yj jeep i connected the vacuum line to the back of the intake. but as soon as i start the engine i loose brake pressure.

any help?
07-14-2015 08:03 AM
BustedYJ I've read quite a bit on a here and I'm a little confused. I have a Dodge Gas NV4500 that I'm trying to run behind a 5.3 in my YJ. I have GM bellhousing 15998496 and I'm not sure that it will work with an external slave cylinder. It just has an opening where the stud should be mounting. I've been looking at the Novak external slave kit but would be open to other ideas to have a good hydraulic clutch setup. Also, Is there any specific year of 6.0 to find a flywheel and clutch setup for or just anything early 2000's?
07-11-2015 03:14 PM
Why J? *89? Are you sure you don't mean *189?
07-10-2015 03:21 PM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by blistovmhz View Post
Also, there seems to be a lot of discrepancy between posts about the optimal temp to run these motors at. Most guys who are running them in factory configurations/vehicles swear that the optimal operating temp is about 98-102F, but heaps of guys swapping them run them much colder.
I was surprised when I got my ECU back from LT1swap.com and he had my fan triggers set to 94/92 and 96/94. When asked about it, he said that's what most guys request. Then when I had Lewis from Diablewtune do my first tune, he set the triggers to 91/89 and 89/91.
Both of these seem rather low and I'm definitely seeing decreased fuel economy since the tune (by about 3-4mpg).

What do you guys say?
89* is way to low!!!!
07-10-2015 10:56 AM
blistovmhz Also, there seems to be a lot of discrepancy between posts about the optimal temp to run these motors at. Most guys who are running them in factory configurations/vehicles swear that the optimal operating temp is about 98-102F, but heaps of guys swapping them run them much colder.
I was surprised when I got my ECU back from LT1swap.com and he had my fan triggers set to 94/92 and 96/94. When asked about it, he said that's what most guys request. Then when I had Lewis from Diablewtune do my first tune, he set the triggers to 91/89 and 89/91.
Both of these seem rather low and I'm definitely seeing decreased fuel economy since the tune (by about 3-4mpg).

What do you guys say?
07-07-2015 08:59 PM
blistovmhz
Oil pressure pid (LM7)

Well shit. So I picked up a Diablosport InTune and got it all setup today. One of the things I've been scratching my head about since day one with the 5.3, is the Oil Pressure PID. I've asked around lots but no one has an answer and most guy insist that OP isn't reported over OBD on the 04/05 ECU. Well, they're wrong.
The InTune managed to grab the correct PID just fine. Unfortunately, DS are ultra-proprietary dinks and won't tell anyone what the PID is, but at least now I know two things:
1. The ECU does in fact report Oil Pressure over the serial bus.
2. I have oil pressure!

Yes, dumbass move, driving around for 2 or 3 months now without knowing if I have OP, but whatever.

So that said, Imma pose the question again because I'm sure someone, somewhere, knows the answer.

What is the PID for Oil Pressure on the LM7?

Engine type/year: LM7 5.3 (2005 Sierra S1500 4x4)
PCM: 2004 LM7 5.3 (2004 Sierra S1500) - SERVNO: 12586242
06-23-2015 04:30 PM
MtnYota Thanks for the reply, I am still researching alot of this. I am planning on the vette regulator and will make sure the upgraded pump isn't internally regulated.

Edit:
I confirmed that both the stock and the 255lph pump I posted above are non-regulated. Also here is the output specs:
http://www.highflowfuel.com/images/F103514714.jpg
06-23-2015 04:01 PM
blistovmhz Yea. It'll get you home. ECU won't be happy about it and it'll take a few minutes to stabilise your fuel trims, and you might stumble if you stomp on it. It'll definitely run better if you get rid of the 45psi regulator (if it's even built into the pump).
Also, I didn't see any spec on that 255lph regarding psi. Make sure its not regulated and add the reg in line.
06-23-2015 02:48 PM
MtnYota I plan on using a rear 93 F-150 gas tank with my LS1 swap into my 4runner. The tank comes with a fuel pump for Ford EFI engines. I believe it is rated for 125 LPH @ 45psi. I will be replacing it with the 255lph pump shown here:
HFP 255LPH Fuel Pump Assembly *Rear Tank* Ford F250 1990 - 1997

My question is, will the stock ford pump be usable as a trail spare even just to limp out?

I've previously been left stranded by a fuel pump, so I prefer to have some sort of back up. The pump I intend on using is:
06-21-2015 05:53 PM
jsawduste
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twankie View Post
Drivers side is 1" passenger head is basically flush with bellhousing surface. ~1/16" forward
Thanks Twankie, then the guy from AA was correct. Would expect one bank to be offset and in this case it is the passenger as you have mentioned.

The 4.0 block is 5/8-3/4 from the bell surface.

That would make the LS tight at best and no go at worst. Sure it wouldn`t be that big a deal to move everything forward a touch but at least we all have some numbers to work off from.

Thanks again
06-20-2015 10:31 AM
Twankie
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsawduste View Post
No your not missing anything. When I wrote that response I knew it would draw a question or two.

The original comment is based on what the AA rep said. Think he was trying to over simplify things and cover his ass.

Looking at my own YJ the centerline is damn near on the fold from the firewall to the tunnel. The frame started out as a 4 cylinder.......

The question is then what is the distance from the bellhousing mating surface to the furthest point in the back of the engine ?

< bell mating surface >< to the furthest point in the back of the engine>

Suspect what the AA guy was trying to say is the amount of room between the bell surface and the heads was less on an LS then on a 4.0. Which if true would put the heads against the FW.

The only way to be sure is to take our own measurements. I have plenty of 4.0blocks and heads to measure off of. Anyone want to volunteer doing the same for an LS ?
Drivers side is 1" passenger head is basically flush with bellhousing surface. ~1/16" forward
06-20-2015 09:05 AM
Why J?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsawduste View Post
No your not missing anything. When I wrote that response I knew it would draw a question or two.

The original comment is based on what the AA rep said. Think he was trying to over simplify things and cover his ass.

Looking at my own YJ the centerline is damn near on the fold from the firewall to the tunnel. The frame started out as a 4 cylinder.......

The question is then what is the distance from the bellhousing mating surface to the furthest point in the back of the engine ?

< bell mating surface >< to the furthest point in the back of the engine>

Suspect what the AA guy was trying to say is the amount of room between the bell surface and the heads was less on an LS then on a 4.0. Which if true would put the heads against the FW.

The only way to be sure is to take our own measurements. I have plenty of 4.0blocks and heads to measure off of. Anyone want to volunteer doing the same for an LS ?
I'll measure mine. you want furtest point on block to the bell mating surface?
06-20-2015 07:08 AM
jsawduste
Quote:
Originally Posted by Why J? View Post
Maybe I am just completely missing something obvious but it should work out. Hell you gain more room in the front of the motor with the 5.3 so you have more to position everything right where you want it.
No your not missing anything. When I wrote that response I knew it would draw a question or two.

The original comment is based on what the AA rep said. Think he was trying to over simplify things and cover his ass.

Looking at my own YJ the centerline is damn near on the fold from the firewall to the tunnel. The frame started out as a 4 cylinder.......

The question is then what is the distance from the bellhousing mating surface to the furthest point in the back of the engine ?

< bell mating surface >< to the furthest point in the back of the engine>

Suspect what the AA guy was trying to say is the amount of room between the bell surface and the heads was less on an LS then on a 4.0. Which if true would put the heads against the FW.

The only way to be sure is to take our own measurements. I have plenty of 4.0blocks and heads to measure off of. Anyone want to volunteer doing the same for an LS ?
06-19-2015 03:48 PM
Why J?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsawduste View Post
That may be true of your Jeep trans/5.3 but I am not running a Jeep trans.

There is an NV4500 and the depth of that AA bellhousing puts the centerline into the tunnel.
What I am saying is that the NV4500 input shaft is what ever length it is. The AA bell housing or the Jeep bell housing will put the trans in the same location as it is behind the 4.0. The bell housings main job is to space the trans a specific length away from the engine. You may need to play with engine placement a bit but you should be able to get the drive train in the same location as it is with the 4.0

Maybe I am just completely missing something obvious but it should work out. Hell you gain more room in the front of the motor with the 5.3 so you have more to position everything right where you want it.
06-19-2015 01:47 PM
jsawduste
Quote:
Originally Posted by Why J? View Post
What? Are you saying that on a 4.0 the trans and engine joint behind the firewall in the trans tunnel? If so that is not true at all.

I have a Jeep 5 speed trans behind my 5.3. My Trans is in the stock location of a normal jeep. Stock shifter boots, t-case shifter and stock trans mount.
That may be true of your Jeep trans/5.3 but I am not running a Jeep trans.

There is an NV4500 and the depth of that AA bellhousing puts the centerline into the tunnel.
06-19-2015 12:57 PM
aloharover
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skorch View Post
http://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts...0325/overview/
Edit: That radiator fits the Mark Vlll fan perfect.
Awesome, Thank You!!
06-19-2015 12:35 PM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by Why J? View Post
I'm running the Novak engine mounts where they say to place them. I have plenty of clearance behind the motor 2-3 inches at least. Didn't have to massage anything it was just one of those things that worked out. Didn't plan it that way.
06-19-2015 11:56 AM
Why J?
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynehartwig View Post
Nice. How far forward is the motor? did you have to massage the firewall?
I'm running the Novak engine mounts where they say to place them. I have plenty of clearance behind the motor 2-3 inches at least. Didn't have to massage anything it was just one of those things that worked out. Didn't plan it that way.
06-19-2015 11:04 AM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by Why J? View Post
What? Are you saying that on a 4.0 the trans and engine joint behind the firewall in the trans tunnel? If so that is not true at all.

I have a Jeep 5 speed trans behind my 5.3. My Trans is in the stock location of a normal jeep. Stock shifter boots, t-case shifter and stock trans mount.
Nice. How far forward is the motor? did you have to massage the firewall?
06-19-2015 10:57 AM
Why J?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsawduste View Post
To answer the question and perhaps be of help to someone else.

The 4.0/bellhousing join together inside the "tunnel" for the trans. Meaning the centerline of the connection is beyond flat of the firewall.

Whereas AA has a bellhousing the heads would be contacting the firewall. So yes the entire trans would have to move forward to accommodate.

Fair question, good answer.
What? Are you saying that on a 4.0 the trans and engine joint behind the firewall in the trans tunnel? If so that is not true at all.

I have a Jeep 5 speed trans behind my 5.3. My Trans is in the stock location of a normal jeep. Stock shifter boots, t-case shifter and stock trans mount.
06-18-2015 09:41 PM
Skorch http://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts...0325/overview/
Edit: That radiator fits the Mark Vlll fan perfect.
06-18-2015 08:40 PM
aloharover
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skorch View Post
This may help, I use a Summit universal radiator for a small block Chevrolet.
Do you know the part number for the radiator?
06-18-2015 07:39 PM
Skorch Your welcome, the hard part wasn't the shape, it was finding them with the different size ends to match. On a side note the engine is impressive and I have not wheeled with an automatic till now. Pretty happy. Going to the Rubicon tomorrow. Pictures from the Hammers. Mark
06-18-2015 03:53 PM
Why J?
Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawk7 View Post
I have an LQ4 so mine will be different but thanks for posting. I might try that upper hose, it will at least be a starting point.
After the engine and rad are in make a template with a coat hanger and go t the parts store and start hunting. You will find something that works.
06-18-2015 06:29 AM
firehawk7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skorch View Post
This may help, I use a Summit universal radiator for a small block Chevrolet. Both hoses have the correct id's. Mark. [/URL]


I have an LQ4 so mine will be different but thanks for posting. I might try that upper hose, it will at least be a starting point.
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