|02-13-2017 08:08 AM|
|02-12-2017 01:44 PM|
|cheapthrillb2||I currently use my old s5 and Bluetooth to the LS ecm. But I thought there was a bolt in cluster that worked via Bluetooth.|
|02-12-2017 01:37 PM|
|02-12-2017 07:41 AM|
|cheapthrillb2||What company makes the Bluetooth instrument cluster again?|
|02-11-2017 11:09 PM|
Just so y'all know... doing this swap all by myself in the dang garage makes me want to set the house on fire. Also Rubi 241s are heavy and I hate Jeeps. Almost time to buy a Prius and swear off Jeeps.
All joking aside, I've got my motor in the middle bolt of the Novak mounts and my rear drive shaft is way obviously extended longer than it was before. Anyone else gain rear driveshaft length after the swap? Kinda hoped that I wouldn't LOL my front DS was too short after the front axle swap. First world problems
|02-11-2017 10:43 AM|
|02-06-2017 12:41 PM|
|02-05-2017 11:23 AM|
|ACRay||So I said I was going to try the C6 manifolds with my Novak bolt-in motor mounts just to double check. The passenger side might work. It dumps about 4-6 inches above on top of the stock upper control arm mount and could work if you route it about 90 degrees immediately after the collector. The drivers side motor mount is a tad bigger and is just in the way too much to trim the mount or manifold and make it work. So, anybody doing the swap not using bolt in TJ motor mounts want a set of C6 manifolds? ��|
|02-05-2017 09:31 AM|
Could someone with cj take picture of their ignition switch? I don't have a wire that's hot in the "on" and "start" position. As far as that goes there isn't even a terminal in the switch that's hot in the "on" and "start" position. I'm missing somthing and not sure what.
edit: correct me but dont I need power to the pcm when cranking? Right now I only have power when in the on position.
Background.. installing LQ4 with a 411 factory pcm in a 83 cj7.
|01-31-2017 09:20 AM|
I know its been a while and probably a long shot, but did you try either of these tactics with any success? I'm doing an emissions legal swap as well, I have a 2003 Yukon L59 motor and was unsure of wether to use the Chevy Canister or the Jeep Canister.
|01-31-2017 08:32 AM|
|01-29-2017 08:33 AM|
I know it's in this thread somewhere but I'm under the gun and after reading 50 pages I still haven't found it, so......
which lokar throttle cable is everyone using? universal gm? which length?
is it this one? 72" seems long?
or I also found a 36"?
|01-22-2017 11:22 AM|
Probably an easy for most of you, however i'm not having much luck. Can anyone give some pointers on the ignition switch wiring. currently installing a LQ4 in an 83cj7. somewhere along the way i lost power to the stock fuse block,and what wires from the ignition switch go where. heres a list as to whats in question.
from the ignition switch
10 gauge yellow wire
10 gauge pink wire
10 gauge red wire
10 gauge purple wire
Any insight would help
|01-22-2017 09:47 AM|
|01-22-2017 09:20 AM|
|01-21-2017 05:15 PM|
|01-21-2017 11:06 AM|
|ACRay||Picked up a set of C6 manifolds cause they were decent priced and local. I had read they wouldn't work with the Novak bolt in motor mounts and this seems to be true for right now, but if i trim a bit off the flange and move the motor back to the last holes on the mount I'm pretty sure they'll work. I'll get some garage time next weekend and find out!|
|01-20-2017 07:18 PM|
|01-20-2017 08:09 AM|
|ACRay||I'm with twankie on the fact that the psi shouldn't be leaking off like that .... with pressure leaking down and it running really rich my first thought would be to check that you don't have an injector stuck open, either mechanically stuck open, possibly leaking through when it's closed because dirt in it/bad /seals or wire ground and keeping it open? Im not a super diagnosing motor engineer so this is just a thought. I know you said the injectors are new, but new parts not working properly happens every once in a while.|
|01-19-2017 08:45 PM|
|DuckHunter5.7||walbro 225 pump, novak regulator bypass and corvette filter, fpr is on the rail. injectors are remans from rock auto.|
|01-19-2017 08:40 PM|
Pressure should not bleed off like that.
What does your fuel system consist of?
Pump, filter, regulator, are the "new" injectors new or used?
|01-19-2017 07:24 PM|
|DuckHunter5.7||got a 2000 5.3/4l60e in my jeep and ive got about 450 miles on it so far. im having a warm start issue after it has set for a little bit. cranks good when its cold but will idle a little rough for a few seconds. once it runs for about 15 seconds it runs good. only issue is after it has been ran and sets it takes a couple seconds of cranking to start and idles a little rough. it has a brian tooley stage 3 truck cam and tuned by 150tunes. ive replaced the TPS, IAC, fuel pressure regulator, cleaned the throttle body and replaced all 8 injectors because i had 4 or 5 leaking. new maf and new 02 sensors because my setup didnt come with em. idle is really rich you can smell fumes pretty bad if you even get close to it when its idling and the first tank of fuel was 9.4 mpg and the second 2 have been 11.4mpg. fuel pressure with key on not running will go up to 47 psi and i cycle key twice it will go up to 56 or so, no matter how many key cycles it will still crank the same. running pressure is at 52-53. key off and it will go up to 55psi and hold pressure there for 15 minutes and starts to bleed off slowly from there. not throwing any codes. crankshaft sensor failing shows the same symptoms as well as all the other stuff i have replaced. anyone else had this hapen or know where to go from here? i cant stand to not have my stuff running right.|
|01-19-2017 02:20 PM|
I have actually seen that covered in this thread. I didn't mention, but I'm adding a 3 quart oil accumulator to cover starvation and at a little later time (when budget permits) I will add baffles to the pan as well.
Reading up on how accumulators with electric solenoids attached to the accessory power will pre-lube the motor before each start was another little bonus that sold me on getting one.
|01-19-2017 11:25 AM|
You might want to search this thread, the F-body pan is apparently no bueno due to oil starvation issues.
I just ordered the pacific fab pan myself.
|01-19-2017 09:27 AM|
I also found out that my truck manifolds are pretty much not gonna work. I could use them, but there would be some nasty angles cause they dump onto the frame rail. Picking up a set of C6 manifolds tomorrow and praying they'll work. Someone many many pages back mentioned that they won't work with the Novak bolt in mounts, but looking at the manifolds and the engine mounts I think they might just squeeze in with a little flange trimming if needed. :fingerscrossed:
Then I saw just how much that truck pan hangs down it confirmed my thoughts and what I've read that I need to swap an F-body pan in so I don't lose all my oil due to a rock on the trail.
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