|12-19-2014 10:01 AM|
Sounds like you have something mechanical, like a TPS or IAC. Look at their values with your scan tool... Play with it and make them change.
|12-19-2014 08:48 AM|
|12-19-2014 08:45 AM|
|12-18-2014 04:25 PM|
Scanner readings at idle 800 rpm +/-
Shtft 1 0-3.6
Shtft 2 0-3.1
Ltft 1 (-.8)
Ltft 2 .8
PCV comes out of the valve cover right into VAC on top of the truck intake.
|12-17-2014 10:49 AM|
|Gemner||Sounds like you have a vacuum leak doesnt it? Especially since you had no issues before hooking up vacuum lines? Check all of the parts that have vacuum as well as the lines. I found a cracked vacuum bottle on mine recently that I didnt know I had and couldnt hear any whistling.|
|12-16-2014 09:52 PM|
What about your fuel trims?
Where is your engine PCV vent? It should go filter>MAF>vent>TB. The vent can't be between the filter and MAF. IT has to be between the MAF and TB. All air used by the motor MUST be metered air.
|12-16-2014 07:46 PM|
|12-16-2014 02:21 PM|
I like Lucas fuel treatment. I've found Lucas works VERY good, especially on old fuel that has varnished and completely plugged up carb/injectors.
|12-16-2014 10:28 AM|
|akecj7||The last time I check fuel pressure it was right about 58-60 psi. I will double check the pressure tonight and get a laser temp gun on the manifolds. If injectors are plugged should I just soak them in sea foam or is there different preferred method to clean them? I just bought a can of sea foam to put into the tank. Thanks for the help.|
|12-16-2014 09:44 AM|
You need to check your fuel pressure
Also you need to make sure all 8 are firing, and are up to temp. Get a laser temp gun and hit each exhaust port while idling. They all should be right around 300*.
Yes, it looks like one bank is rich, and one lean. But it also looks like the longer it runs, the better they get. Plugged injectors causes stuff like this.
I'd also figure this out before putting new plugs in, as you might ruin them as well. If you have some not firing, then you have no choice but to replace those holes.
|12-16-2014 08:02 AM|
So I am having some issues with my motor. First, when I can get it to idle after a cold start the motor will climb to about 1100 RPM and stay there even when the engine is at running temp (200* F). The only way I can get it to drop idle is to shut it off and restart, when this is done it idles at about 500 which seems right. Second, sometimes it will idle fine then start stumbling. I pulled my plugs and they are all (8) black as black can be. They are not wet just black. I pulled the motor out of a wrecking yard with about 120,000 miles on it so I am going to be replacing them tonight. Third, it seems to be running rich. I pulled the data below and would like to help interpreting the results. It seems like bank one is really rich and bank 2 is really lean. Is this correct? If so, what could cause it to be like this? Thanks for the help in advanced.
Here is the scan tools collected data.
|12-13-2014 11:02 PM|
No, driving it probably won't help - unless the injectors are plugged
Get a scanner on it and check your long term fuel trims. Also get a fuel pressure gauge on it - should be about 50, and then 58 with the vacuum line unplugged at the regulator - At idle of course.
|12-13-2014 08:58 PM|
Walbro 255 (0-90) psi pump i think, bought a long time ago
Harness and tune done by Wayne.
Engine runs and if I baby it down to idle with the peddle its nice and smooth. Since I am running a TH400 I assume the "4wd" was removed as far as the VSS reading. My problem is that the engine wont start with out giving it throttle to get it going and wont stay running if I blip the throttle. Now like i said I can baby it down to idle and it wont die.
I didnt have the VSS hooked up at all until tonight i tried to wire it up to see if that helped the idle issue (it didnt). Its hooked up to the VSS that come with the atlas t case as my TH400 has no provisions for it (doesnt matter if im not running a 4L60 right?) Do i need to drive the buggy to get the ECM to recognize it has VSS hooked up now by chance? Should i be getting any Volt reading from the wires coming from the harness? Its a purple/white and Green/black i believe.
My next check will be to see if im losing fuel pressure somewhere. I am running the pump straight to the engine using the factory GM regulator thats on the rail, Also a return line back to the cell. Ports are on the bottom of the cell and the pump is mounted below that.
Weird thing is the damn thing didnt have this problem before i hooked up vac lines, even before i got the exhaust on it the thing didnt do this. I even tried to disconnect them all to start over
Any thoughts would be great, Wayne if you see this and can maybe look at my tune its Anthony Ferrara (tuned late last year maybe Jan)
|12-05-2014 04:30 AM|
|12-04-2014 07:21 PM|
|Gemner||Yeah it should come on for a second with key on, engine off. Missed that part|
|12-04-2014 10:52 AM|
|12-04-2014 10:49 AM|
|12-04-2014 10:31 AM|
|RebelRider||Shouldn't it come on for just a second with just the key? I will cycle it through a couple of times and check. Thanks.|
|12-04-2014 09:22 AM|
|12-04-2014 07:16 AM|
I'm finally trying to put together an air intake for my 6.0L. I'm using intakeshoses.com for parts. Here's the snag. Truck 5 wire MAFs are 3.8 in/3.6" out. What size boots fit these the best? 3.5" or 4"? 3.5" on the outlet and 4" on the inlet?
I cut down my harness using lt1swap. I recently fired up the engine for the first time with no 02 sensors or MAF. The issue I have, is the check engine indicator light is not lighting up. It doesn't even light up when I initially turn the key on? Have I wired something wrong?
The setup is out of a 2000 Gmc 2500 6.0/4L80E
|12-01-2014 05:36 PM|
|12-01-2014 05:33 PM|
|Boodyrider||Custom os and 2 or 3 bar map yes? Been a while since I played with ls stuff but it's coming back a bit now...|
|11-30-2014 08:55 PM|
|11-30-2014 08:50 PM|
|11-30-2014 06:33 PM|
02 PCM can and will read boost if tuned properly. Just like any GENIV PCM...
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