|12-06-2013 06:55 PM|
Ton of info, thanks.
|12-06-2013 03:58 PM|
Just one god one for others
VSS is of much debate on here. Its easy enough to run the DD one and set the PCM for it. It will help with slow speed conditions and off idle.
|12-06-2013 03:36 PM|
But let me ask, would you also go with DD for the VSS if you are using an SM mated to a D18?
|12-06-2013 10:33 AM|
You can use a dakota digital inline speedo VSS.
|12-06-2013 09:17 AM|
5.3L -> SM465
Motor is from a '04 1500hd, not sure what the trans started its life in.
What clutch have you guys used, anything off the shelf?
Or is the Advance Adapters swap kit pretty much the only way to go?
Also. I have an Atlas with the stock tailhousing. Switch to the GM VSS tailhousing? Or is there another way to pick up that signal?
edit. Also thanks to the guys that have dumped info into this thread, its quite the resource.
|12-04-2013 03:02 PM|
|12-03-2013 07:50 AM|
|Stinger||Thanks Don--you stalker you. Don't tell on me.|
|12-03-2013 04:24 AM|
|12-02-2013 04:41 PM|
I have spent the last week or so reading all 4921 posts on this thread. WOW! My eyeballs are tired. However I have learned a hell of a lot! Thanks to the many people that made this thread so informative. I found this thread on advice from others, and they suggested I read it twice.—so I read it slowly and hope that will count.
I bought a 2012 Silverado 2500 HD with a 6.0 L96 and a 6l90 tranny, with a MP1625 TC. This was a Wyoming oil field rig (fleet vehicle) that had been totaled. The entire left front wheel assembly was ripped out of the vehicle and the left side frame bent in several places!
The engine and tranny are going into a 05 LJ Rubicon, with Nth Degree 6LA and Atlas II TC that is currently behind a 6 speed. I will not use the truck TC. Instead I will use my Atlas 2, 4.3 ratio and the 6l90. . I re-geared the diffs to 4:88s. I understand the fuel pump I have will work. The engine is at Novak getting the harness trimmed and the PC tuned then a test run and tune in the shop because I was too busy wheeling to do it. .
I had intended to send the computator to Wayne about half way through the thread and still will as Novak does “stock” tunes.
Got a call from them Novak today saying after many hours working on it they cannot tune the E78 ECM and that they would provide a E38 as a replacement.
Here is where I need help and suggestions: All of the post so far dealt with engines/drivetrains much older than 2012. Does anyone know if there are differences from the earlier models that I should know about and any compatibility issues with my LJ and this engine combination?
Wayne what is your take on the e38 vs e78 ECMs? Which one should I send to you for a retune?
The truck has a hydro boost brake system. Can I adapt that to my Jeep?
I have noticed on several builds that people are running the drivers side exhaust back under the oil pan to the passengers side, just like the 4.0 setup. However in a couple of cases I've seen the cats also mounted under/very close to the oil pan. Does anyone know if this has caused overheated oil problems.
Thanks in advance. Any help would be appreciated.
|12-01-2013 01:43 PM|
Anybody know what exactly is ran off the jeep ecm?
I'm wondering if I ditch my computer will the turn signals still work? Or do I need to keep hold of it?
|12-01-2013 08:00 AM|
|11-30-2013 11:59 PM|
For those that use inline pumps, how do you get it to pick up in the tank? Do you just gut the stock fuel sender and have a hose hanging into the tank?
|11-27-2013 07:35 PM|
|11-26-2013 05:02 PM|
Stock TJ 2005 pump works just fine 55PSI all day long
I prefer Bosch 044 pump over the walbro..
Also the return does not need to be big, just a drainage from regulator.
Running a Fuel Pressure Bypass Regulator, helps with boost and NA engine. Has vaccum ratio diaphram. Run it close as you can to the fuel rail, same goes for the cheap vette filter regulator.
|11-26-2013 04:23 PM|
What size is the return?
It needs to be 5/16'' min or it can cause pressure issues as well.
|11-23-2013 08:30 PM|
I swapped out my little 2.5 for the 5.3 last year. At the time I left the fuel system mostly stock, as it ran good enough for me to drive. The fuel pressure was not much more than 45psi and it has been a little groggy when I give it too much accelerator, so I decided to finally upgrade my fuel system. My goal is to get the ~58psi the 5.3 wants.
Here is what I did a couple of weeks ago in an attempt to "upgrade":
I replaced the stock Jeep pump with a Walboro 255lph. I removed the Jeep regulator and replaced it with an aluminum plug from Novak adapters. I used a brass plumbing elbow from Home Depot with a 1/4" barb, connected that to a 1/4" fuel injection hose, connected that to a generic inline filter, ran 1/4" hose from the filter to a 3/8" SS braided hose that connects to the fuel rail via a -6an fuel line adapter.
After all that, the fuel pressure would not get over 48psi. It would start at 55, but then after 15 seconds it would drop to 48 and not come back up. I decided to purchase a Corvette filter/regulator and Holley returnless fuel rails. This would take all the old regulators out of the equation and hopefully give me 58psi from the Corvette F/R.
My concern is the varying sizes of fuel hose. The regulator and engine are 3/8", so I purchased 3/8" line to replace everything but the line coming off the aluminum plug, which has the 1/4" barbed elbow.
Will going from the 1/4" outlet on the pump to 3/8" on the rest of the system cause a pressure problem?
I am not a pro by any means, so if anyone has suggestions on any part of the system, please let me hear them. Thanks!
|11-20-2013 06:37 AM|
LSx Tuning Guide
Read the "LTFT and STFT Info" section and quit throwing parts at it.
|11-19-2013 10:25 PM|
|MARKINTJ||Hey guys,I was wondering if somebody could help me out a bit with my issue.I did the 5.3 swap in my Tj and everything turned out great but my LTFT are at negative 12.5 at idle.STFT bounce around close to zero.Weird thing is that at around 45-50mph LTFT go to around negative 5.5.I guess this means I'm running rich.The jeep actually runs good and strong but as I understand those LTFT need to be as close to zero as possible.So far I have new o2 sensors from the dealership,new oem plugs,new plug wires,new intake manifold gaskets.I cleaned the maf with maf cleaner and removed the throttle body and cleaned it too.I also removed all the injectors and cleaned them by running injector cleaner through them under pressure while cycling the injectors with a battery.I'm just not sure what else to look for and I've read this thread start to finish and tried the search.Any help would be appreciated.|
|11-19-2013 02:37 PM|
I bet you might have oil contamination on your KN. I don't run them on LS motors at all.
|11-19-2013 01:58 PM|
Random tid bits..
Machined bung for EVAP purge valve.
Also welding V-bands to stock manifolds work great, stock manifolds flow better than shorty headers. Especially 1.5" primary ones
Want to run TC pump on 5.3/6.O truck block?
Use stock GM OEM bracket part number in picture and belt, machine .250" spacers for 10mm bolts, I think the TG pump will fit, not sure about OEM pump pulley fitting though.
|11-19-2013 01:56 PM|
I will have to pop the engine cover and verify how the PCV system is hooked up, I haven't checked it since i installed the motor and can't remember, but i just re-installed the stock one. I am certain that the fresh air tube is hooked up to the TB though, i remember reconnecting it when i had the TB off.
As for the water hose, there's not much weight at all on the tube from it, it just rests there, if the air intake tube wasn't there it would likely still be in the same spot. The intake elbow itself is pretty rigid so there is no worry of kinking.
It's probably an optical illusion from the photo but the rad cap is actually the highest point in the system (barely, but it is).
I appreciate the input.
|11-19-2013 01:41 PM|
Reading the above, clean the maf.
|11-19-2013 12:10 PM|
Ahh OK clean the MAF, might have oil from K&N on it. You can get "special" MAF cleaner and Remove battery cable to clear all codes and try it again and see how it does.
Also clean the TB while your in there. I would remove and clean up.
Then make sure the tube down stream of is tight.
Also how is the PCV system hooked up. Were is the fresh air inlet hooked up? At the correct intake point behind the TB?
Also how much weight is on the intake tube from the water hose. And with the upper water hose that high you will have air in trapped in it. You need to route under the intake to lower it. The rad cap needs to be the highest point.
If you can not do that I would place a inline bleed fitting in it. Jags that run sell them and you can replace that flex piece in there with it. And bleed all the air out of it with it running.
|11-19-2013 11:20 AM|
K&N oiled filter.
My intake tubing is a bit of a unique setup. I actually pull air from the cowl through some 4" exhaust tubing and through the filter. I made sure to put the MAF as far away from the elbows as I could. Here is a photo. The filter box is on the far left, it's from a 2002 Expedition.
|11-19-2013 11:15 AM|
What kinda of air filter do you have is it dry or oiled? If it oiled one, I would clean the MAF sensor and see if that helps.
Also how is your intake tube setup?
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