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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-30-2015 09:03 AM
akecj7
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynehartwig View Post
Go disconnect the battery. Unplug the o2's. Hook the battery back up and start/run it for a few minutes. Then check header temps.

150 is rich or barely firing
~300 is good
4-500+ is most likely fuel burning in the exhaust from shitty plugs
Great I will give this a try and let you know.
03-30-2015 08:34 AM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by akecj7 View Post
The temps are at running coolant temp 195-205 (motor running for about 10-15 min).

So unplug them before engine starts or while motor is running? Thanks for the help.
Go disconnect the battery. Unplug the o2's. Hook the battery back up and start/run it for a few minutes. Then check header temps.

150 is rich or barely firing
~300 is good
4-500+ is most likely fuel burning in the exhaust from shitty plugs
03-30-2015 08:14 AM
akecj7
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynehartwig View Post
Unplug all o2's, reset the fuel trims and try it. What are the temps on all 8 after it runs for a few mins
The temps are at running coolant temp 195-205 (motor running for about 10-15 min).

So unplug them before engine starts or while motor is running? Thanks for the help.
03-30-2015 08:10 AM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by akecj7 View Post
So I got some time this weekend to do some more testing and here is the latest. The exhaust in pretty much together at least good enough for some testing. The motor starts and runs okay. you can here a miss fire but still no codes. The LTFT back to where I started from bank 1 @ 25.0 and bank 2 @-15.?. When I measured the temp @ the manifolds while the motor was running and they were about 150 on bank 1 and about 200-250 on bank 2. There was only one that got as hot as 300 but it was only for a min. Any other suggestions. I have tested for a head/head gasket leak into the combustion chamber and have not found leaks as of yet. I am going to take the suggestion from another post above and check to make sure that I do not have an intake leak and I am also going to clean my MAF.
Unplug all o2's, reset the fuel trims and try it. What are the temps on all 8 after it runs for a few mins
03-30-2015 07:51 AM
akecj7
Quote:
Originally Posted by akecj7 View Post
So I got some good news. compression test was good in all cylinders. I pulled the plugs out grounded them and there was hardly any spark. I put a new plug in and tested the same way and what a difference. I put all new plugs in and it turned over twice and fired and ran good. I am contributing the issues to new injectors given the correct amount of fuel and the plugs not sparking enough to burn the fuel.

Fuel trims went from both being lean to both being rich which is an improvement since neither read the same before. I need to finish the exhaust and try it again. Thanks everybody for the suggestions.
So I got some time this weekend to do some more testing and here is the latest. The exhaust in pretty much together at least good enough for some testing. The motor starts and runs okay. you can here a miss fire but still no codes. The LTFT back to where I started from bank 1 @ 25.0 and bank 2 @-15.?. When I measured the temp @ the manifolds while the motor was running and they were about 150 on bank 1 and about 200-250 on bank 2. There was only one that got as hot as 300 but it was only for a min. Any other suggestions. I have tested for a head/head gasket leak into the combustion chamber and have not found leaks as of yet. I am going to take the suggestion from another post above and check to make sure that I do not have an intake leak and I am also going to clean my MAF.
03-28-2015 04:32 AM
Why J?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 183Beast View Post
Help with some diagnosis. Out wheeling 5.3 in Yj. Intermittant stutters, running rich and will miss. No codes. stft will get up in the 30s and dumps fuel. Can't find a vac leak. Doesn't do it till warm 190+

Has intake gaskets in the last 6 months

02 sensor replaced
Cleaned maf
Replaced fpr

Need some other suggestions.

Wayne's tune, has ran great for the last 6 months. Has upstream 02s only.
Unmetered air from somewhere or a bad MAF.
03-27-2015 02:06 PM
183Beast FP is 50, goes to 60 if I give it some fuel.
03-27-2015 02:04 PM
183Beast Help with some diagnosis. Out wheeling 5.3 in Yj. Intermittant stutters, running rich and will miss. No codes. stft will get up in the 30s and dumps fuel. Can't find a vac leak. Doesn't do it till warm 190+

Has intake gaskets in the last 6 months

02 sensor replaced
Cleaned maf
Replaced fpr

Need some other suggestions.

Wayne's tune, has ran great for the last 6 months. Has upstream 02s only.
03-27-2015 12:23 PM
Gemner
Quote:
Originally Posted by sylgeist View Post
Are there any snorkel kits that will accommodate an LS motor without choking it for air? The intake pipe size is so different from the 4.0L -> 5.3L it seems like a normal Jeep kit would be too small?
Jeep kit would be WAY too small. Intakes for the 5.3 are 4" diameter on roughly 3" diameter opening throttle bodies. Jeep intakes are no bigger than 3" for a 56mm throttle body. That means the Jeep intake only has a bit over 60% of the open area that the GM intakes have. It would probably idle and drive just fine though, with less top end power.
03-26-2015 03:33 AM
shopteach We have 3 LS Jeeps, 2 with 6.0 and 1 with a 5.3. The 6.0's (including the LS2) are not too much. The 5.3 is fine too, it's not too little either. If you can save that much, I say go 5.3. You won't regret it. If it isn't enough for you, then you have $1500 to add more power to the 5.3
03-25-2015 06:44 PM
southern k5 Random question for guys with 6.0L in their jeeps, do you feel its almost to much and a 5.3 would've worked just as well? I want to do a 6.0/4l80e in my CJ, but Im thinking a 5.3/4l60e to save about a grand to 1500.
03-25-2015 05:19 PM
jeepbonehead 1999 5.3 from silverado 1500, 4l60e, Wayne tune with Dave's harness mods. Everything is built and done( intake exhaust blah blah)

Here's my problem. Once she is at running temperature she doesn't like idol. I haven't gotten a code checker on the OBD two port yet but I will Monday or Tuesday. Before this problem popped up today it has always idled and moved around fine but I've never had it running long enough for operating temperature. I just started it up again after it cooled down and started up and pulled into the garage with no problems at all. Anyone else I have a problem like this? Fuel pressure looks to be at the correct psi.
03-19-2015 04:02 PM
sylgeist Are there any snorkel kits that will accommodate an LS motor without choking it for air? The intake pipe size is so different from the 4.0L -> 5.3L it seems like a normal Jeep kit would be too small?
03-17-2015 08:35 PM
mtmer I have a 2001 gm 5.3 with about 40k miles in my TJ. When the engine is cold and I give it a good blip of the throttle it wants to die out and kinda makes a backfiring noise and sputters but then after a second or two it clears up and I get full power. If you give it throttle lightly and slowly it doesn't die out. It does idle fine at all temps. Once it's good and warmed up it just about completely goes away. I was thinking maybe the MAF is bad or the intake gasket could be going. If I unplug the MAF it runs a little rougher. I also tightened up the camps for the air intake a little bit. I tried spraying some brake cleaner around the intake but never got any sputtering. There is an inline fuel pressure gauge and it stays steady right in between the 55 and 60 psi marks. I think these need 58 psi? It's not throwing any codes, even when I tried unplugging the MAF. Anyone else have some thoughts on it?
03-17-2015 06:47 PM
akecj7 So I got some good news. compression test was good in all cylinders. I pulled the plugs out grounded them and there was hardly any spark. I put a new plug in and tested the same way and what a difference. I put all new plugs in and it turned over twice and fired and ran good. I am contributing the issues to new injectors given the correct amount of fuel and the plugs not sparking enough to burn the fuel.

Fuel trims went from both being lean to both being rich which is an improvement since neither read the same before. I need to finish the exhaust and try it again. Thanks everybody for the suggestions.
03-13-2015 05:49 PM
akecj7
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynehartwig View Post
If you pull the fuel rail, leave the injectors in, supply 58 psi of fuel, they should not spray
Okay good news and probably bad news. All of my injectors are getting pulse signals from the computer (tested with noid light). I am also getting spark at all cylinders. some were a little weaker but as soon as I pulled the heat shields off lots of good bright spark. I then pulled the rail and applied 60 psi from fuel pump and no fuel coming out of any of the injectors. So that is the good news, now for the bad. I decided to check the oil level for some reason and the oil smells like fuel, really bad. I need to get a compression tester to ensure that rings are bad. Is there any other place fuel can get into the oil? Thanks again for all of the help.
03-13-2015 07:26 AM
aloharover
Quote:
Originally Posted by 01tj View Post
Ended up being Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
Glad you figured it out.

How did you?
03-13-2015 07:26 AM
01tj
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynehartwig View Post
Sounds like a fuel issue
Ended up being Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
03-12-2015 10:20 PM
blistovmhz
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayMcJay View Post
if you're using a transfer case with a 2.71:1 low range than go right ahead and put the VSS in the tailshaft of the transfer case. Just make sure to also hook up the 4X4 input to the computer, so it knows that you've actually shifted. Otherwise the computer will see that the output speed of the transfer case is much lower (2.71 times, to be exact) than it thinks it should be, and will try to fix that by grabbing harder on the clutches, etc.

If you're using anything other than a transfer case with a 2.71:1 low range you'll want to put the VSS between the transmission and t-case. Then DON'T hook up the 4X4 input. The computer won't know (and won't care) when you're in 4-low.

I used a 40 tooth gear from McMaster Carr, bored it out to fit the tail shaft of my 4L60E, and drilled/tapped the adapter housing for a stock VSS. Works like a champ.
THIS! I saw some pictures of this somewhere and it seemed like the best/most obvious plan. Do you have any pictures anywhere? I've been fighting with the t-case option all week because I don't want to spend a grand on a t-case adapter and SYE with GM compatible VSS, only to find out the case is too small and I have to start all over again. I'd rather the VSS just be in the trans>t-case adapter where it belongs.
How'd you get this done? It doesn't look like there's heaps of room between the trans output and case input. Enough to stick a 40t reluctor in there and just bore the hole and line'r all up?
03-11-2015 11:55 AM
FrankZ I've started gathering parts for my next Vortec Jeep and was wondering if anyone has found a VSS that will work in the tailcone of a Dana 300?
03-11-2015 09:49 AM
aloharover I am sticking a 5.3 into a 40yo Land Rover. The vehicle frame is a straight ladder, with the rails only 25" apart.
Even with block huggers I am not sure I am going to be able to get the first pipe in between the rails.
It looks like it might be easier to have the pipe outside the frame rail.

My questions are:
If I just run a dual exhaust all the way back, do these engine require a cross over pipe?
If they do is there a theoretical/physical location for one (ie should be 24" from the headers)?

Also since I am thinking about it, I am running an NP241 T-Case. My front axle doesn't have any sort of hub disconnects. Any issue with the front shaft always spinning the tcase?

Thanks
03-11-2015 09:31 AM
01tj
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynehartwig View Post
Sounds like a fuel issue
Yeah thats definetly what I'm thinking too. Know of anything to check or look at?
03-11-2015 08:28 AM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by 01tj View Post
I'm having an issue with my 5.3 in my TJ and I haven't been able to figure it out, so maybe some of y'all can help me out. I've read all kind of threads online trying to figure it out but no luck so far. It's a 2001 5.3 truck engine, mated to a th350 and an Atlas. The jeep runs and drives great until wide open throttle, at WOT it stumbles really bad and won't hit the rev limiter under load. It will rev all the way up and hit the limiter in park or neutral. It's got a Aeromotive stealth fuel pump in tank, mounted in a TJ assembly. Fuel pressures when I start it is 58-60, about 50 at idle and just driving normal, when I go to WOT driving or wheeling it goes to about 60-62 PSI. The engine runs on speed density instead of MAF. It has a brand new fuel pump and pressure regulator. Any of you guys had an issue like this?
Sounds like a fuel issue
03-10-2015 05:54 PM
01tj I'm having an issue with my 5.3 in my TJ and I haven't been able to figure it out, so maybe some of y'all can help me out. I've read all kind of threads online trying to figure it out but no luck so far. It's a 2001 5.3 truck engine, mated to a th350 and an Atlas. The jeep runs and drives great until wide open throttle, at WOT it stumbles really bad and won't hit the rev limiter under load. It will rev all the way up and hit the limiter in park or neutral. It's got a Aeromotive stealth fuel pump in tank, mounted in a TJ assembly. Fuel pressures when I start it is 58-60, about 50 at idle and just driving normal, when I go to WOT driving or wheeling it goes to about 60-62 PSI. The engine runs on speed density instead of MAF. It has a brand new fuel pump and pressure regulator. Any of you guys had an issue like this?
03-09-2015 01:59 PM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by akecj7 View Post
what is the best way to test/fix a stuck injectors? should I put the old ones back in and see if that fixes the issues?
If you pull the fuel rail, leave the injectors in, supply 58 psi of fuel, they should not spray
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