Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum - Reply to Topic
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Jeep - Hardcore Tech > 5.3 Jeeps
Notices

Thread: 5.3 Jeeps Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 08:13 PM
akecj7
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynehartwig View Post
What are you doing with that harness? I'll cover shipping if you want to send it this way vs tossing it out? We can always use pieces to fix others... We don't charge for freebies, either...
Its yours PM address and I will get it sent out. Would you like the transmission connectors too? You good if I keep the fuse block?
Today 08:05 PM
cj7ole It seems like a small item, but I finally have an analog tach that actually matches the rpm's shown on my ScanGauge. I needed to get it working so I can blast up the face of test hill (sand dune) in first gear without over-reving the engine. I replaced my old Sunpro Mini tach which never seemed to work right with a super cheap 3.75" $25 tach. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The new tach is big enough to read and has a shift light, plus you can change back light color with a front button. I followed the instructions here Tach wiring for 99+ Vortec/LS1 to install the needed pull up resistor ( I used a 640 ohm 1/2 watt from RS).

Yesterday 09:53 PM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by akecj7 View Post
You did just the tune. I did the harness, and would not try it again if I did another swap. I would either just buy new like I ended up doing or have Wayne modify one with the tune.
What are you doing with that harness? I'll cover shipping if you want to send it this way vs tossing it out? We can always use pieces to fix others... We don't charge for freebies, either...
Yesterday 07:39 AM
akecj7
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynehartwig View Post
You bet! Glad you got it figured out

To be clear... Did we do your harness, too? Or just the tune?
You did just the tune. I did the harness, and would not try it again if I did another swap. I would either just buy new like I ended up doing or have Wayne modify one with the tune.
Yesterday 06:43 AM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by akecj7 View Post
So after about a year of fighting and quitting on my 5.3 swap into my CJ, I finally got it running the way I think it should. Wayne worked with me patiently and could not have asked for better customer service. After working tirelessly on trouble shooting with me, we boiled it down to "probably a harness" issue. I attempted to do it my self and screwed something up. After about 6 months I pulled the trigger on a brand new harness, and wow what a difference still not perfect but a whole lot better. Last weekend I disconnected the battery and let it sit for a couple of days then reconnected and it fired right up with a small miss tracked this down to a bad plug (again). Replaced this today and wow this thing is a completely difference beast. Thanks again Wayne for all of your support and commitment to your services.
You bet! Glad you got it figured out

To be clear... Did we do your harness, too? Or just the tune?
08-28-2016 08:37 PM
akecj7 So after about a year of fighting and quitting on my 5.3 swap into my CJ, I finally got it running the way I think it should. Wayne worked with me patiently and could not have asked for better customer service. After working tirelessly on trouble shooting with me, we boiled it down to "probably a harness" issue. I attempted to do it my self and screwed something up. After about 6 months I pulled the trigger on a brand new harness, and wow what a difference still not perfect but a whole lot better. Last weekend I disconnected the battery and let it sit for a couple of days then reconnected and it fired right up with a small miss tracked this down to a bad plug (again). Replaced this today and wow this thing is a completely difference beast. Thanks again Wayne for all of your support and commitment to your services.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mmwj-aU_YRI
08-25-2016 07:35 AM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconJeepGuy View Post
So it looks like the GTO pedal is no longer available: new or used. They discontinued making them a while back and they are extremely hard to find now. I've been told that I can use the C6 Corvette pedal with my E40 24x GTO ECU along with the [slightly modified] J1 harness, but there's a catch. The ECU will need to be reprogrammed with the 'vette load which most tuners (EFI-live, HPTuners) don't have access to perform on the ECU. That means that I'll need to have two services done to the ECU:

1. Format the computer and install a Corvette load
2. Tune the ECU to my needs

So my questions for you are:
1. Do you have the tools to install a Corvette load on my E40 ECU?
2. Will the Corvette load allow me to have electric fan control for the radiator?
3. Would you be programming in manual or auto into the ECU for my TH400?
Not sure if that will work, but yes, I have the ability to do it if you are wanting to try it... Would be $50 plus the ride, for the programming and additional $150 if you want me to tune it as well.
08-24-2016 10:31 PM
RubiconJeepGuy So it looks like the GTO pedal is no longer available: new or used. They discontinued making them a while back and they are extremely hard to find now. I've been told that I can use the C6 Corvette pedal with my E40 24x GTO ECU along with the [slightly modified] J1 harness, but there's a catch. The ECU will need to be reprogrammed with the 'vette load which most tuners (EFI-live, HPTuners) don't have access to perform on the ECU. That means that I'll need to have two services done to the ECU:

1. Format the computer and install a Corvette load
2. Tune the ECU to my needs

So my questions for you are:
1. Do you have the tools to install a Corvette load on my E40 ECU?
2. Will the Corvette load allow me to have electric fan control for the radiator?
3. Would you be programming in manual or auto into the ECU for my TH400?

Quote:
Originally Posted by waynehartwig View Post
J1 is the dash harness. This is where your pedal connector, OBDII, etc are

https://www.google.com/search?q=gto+...ddress&ie=&oe=
08-21-2016 08:16 AM
63Willysplano
Quote:
Originally Posted by nycreecy View Post
This is another option. KWiK Performance, Inc. - Home

I relocated AC with a custom bracket to move it up higher so it would clear the pass side strut mount and used the kwik alt/ps kit on a GTO LS. Everything lines up, but I had to try a couple belts to get tension correct.

Chan
Thank you Chan, I'll check it out.
08-21-2016 03:48 AM
nycreecy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 63Willysplano View Post
Anyone used LS Brackets for any relocations? I am considering the AC relocation bracket to avoid notching the frame and also making any future maintenance much easier.

Main | LS Brackets

Thoughts?
This is another option. KWiK Performance, Inc. - Home

I relocated AC with a custom bracket to move it up higher so it would clear the pass side strut mount and used the kwik alt/ps kit on a GTO LS. Everything lines up, but I had to try a couple belts to get tension correct.

Chan
08-20-2016 02:50 PM
aribelin
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpaceCase614 View Post
Could be because it's so damn hot out here in Gilbert. LOL
It could be that

Novak stepped up to the plate and are refunding on the radiator as it just won't cut it here in Phoenix with my pig of a Jeep. Going with 20% larger Ron Davis radiator with over 1300 more CFM's (twin fans) that Campbell's will squeeze in when it arrives in a couple of weeks.
08-18-2016 09:04 AM
ACRay
Quote:
Originally Posted by aribelin View Post
Vented the fender liners trying to shed some of the heat, didn't work still trying to figure out this heat problem.

I'm still in my 5.3 swap and I spend way too much time reading up on it so I have a smooth swap. Came across these "fixes" from some other Jeepers. You might have already used the google machine and found too, but if not maybe it'll help:


- Used some 1.5" foam rubber insulation tube like those used to insulate AC pipes to insulate the upper radiator end against the condenser and at the same time against the hood ... to force air pressure through the rad instead of going around it!
- Pressure tested the rad and made sure not the slightest leak anymore.
- Ditched a bad thermostat ... it was contaminated by some sealing stuff and getting stuck from time to time.
- Changed a bad rad cap which let coolant escape to the bottle (sometimes boiling and overflowing) not holding enough pressure and after cooling down not sucking the coolant back in.
- Found out Novak sent a smaller radiator that wasn't matched to the HP of the swapped motor. Swapped radiators and fixed the issue.
- New radiator has flaps on fan shroud to allow air to pass through with less restriction at highway speeds (also saw folks adding flaps to other shrouds used)
08-17-2016 03:59 PM
SpaceCase614
Quote:
Originally Posted by aribelin View Post
Vented the fender liners trying to shed some of the heat, didn't work still trying to figure out this heat problem.
Could be because it's so damn hot out here in Gilbert. LOL
08-17-2016 03:21 PM
aribelin Vented the fender liners trying to shed some of the heat, didn't work still trying to figure out this heat problem.

08-16-2016 08:14 AM
cheapthrillb2 Well, that kinda sucks.
08-16-2016 07:55 AM
SpaceCase614
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapthrillb2 View Post
Hit the pick N pull, grab an non-flex fuel rail and injectors, tell your tuner to adjust accordingly and be done with it.

Or are the connectors at the injectors different?
Yeah the connectors are different for the injectors. Flex fuel are square, non flex are rectangular.

Flex Fuel Injector


Non Flex Fuel Injector
08-16-2016 07:52 AM
cheapthrillb2 Hit the pick N pull, grab an non-flex fuel rail and injectors, tell your tuner to adjust accordingly and be done with it.

Or are the connectors at the injectors different?
08-16-2016 07:02 AM
SpaceCase614
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynehartwig View Post
All GM is 58 psi. Some will vary depending on idle and load. Pretty sure 03 on was returnless
From what I found on How to identify vortec truck engine the 2004 L59 is the only one not at 58psi. I have the 2004 L59.

"1999-2003 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 all had a fuel rail with 3/8" supply line and a 5/16" return line. The fuel pressure regulator is on the fuel rail, and has a vacuum line to the intake manifold. In 2004, truck engines went to a single 3/8" supply line, with NO RETURN LINE (returnless) except 5.3L L59 Flex Fuel vehicles. For 2004, Flex fuel engines KEPT the return line, BUT used a fuel pressure regulator with a lower pressure ratting. 2005 5.3L L59 Flex Fuel engines switched to a single 3/8" supply with NO RETURN line in 2005. Non flex fuel engines, fuel pressure spec is 55 to 62 psi with vacuum line disconnected, fuel pump running. 5.3L Flex Fuel engine 2001-2004, 48-54 psi with vacuum line disconnected, fuel pump running. 2005+ with returnless fuel rail all shared same fuel pressure spec, 55-62 psi. There is no vacuum reference on these, so fuel pressure should remain constant under all operating conditions. The computer is programmed differently for fuel flow rate depending on type of fuel rail. This is important to know when having a PCM programmed. (exception: 04 express van and 04 trailblazer/envoy still used return style fuel rail, 05+ single line, retunless rail)"

Injector 25326903 - 5.3L L59 Vin Z, flex fuel 5.3L - flows 4.164 gm/sec or 33lb/hr @ 50 psi These are taller then the non-flex fuel injector *this injector only used on return style fuel rail, 01-04

Trying to find confirmation of this to know if my options will work to just increase flow with the TJ regulator.
08-16-2016 06:50 AM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpaceCase614 View Post
I just received my 5.3 today, it's a 2004 but it's NOT an LM7 like they said, it's an L59. So I'm trying to figure what to do for fuel. I have the Novak kit to modify the stock pump to push 60psi for the LM7 but the L59 requires only 50psi which is basically the stock pump BUT it uses 33g/hr injectors and I can't find anywhere if the stock pump will support that or if I just need to put in the Walboro 255 intank to increase the volume while staying at 50psi. Also, being that the regulator at the tank is 50psi and my specific 2004 has a return on the rail because it's an L59, can I just cap the return at the motor since it's only going to be fed 50psi?

Oh yeah, it's going in my 2003 TJ Rubicon.
All GM is 58 psi. Some will vary depending on idle and load. Pretty sure 03 on was returnless
08-16-2016 06:47 AM
waynehartwig J1 is the dash harness. This is where your pedal connector, OBDII, etc are

https://www.google.com/search?q=gto+...ddress&ie=&oe=
08-15-2016 09:33 PM
RubiconJeepGuy
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynehartwig View Post
You don't need the TCM
You will need the TB and pedal for an 06 GTO
You will also need the J1 harness (plugs into J1 on the PCM)

Thanks Wayne. Where can I source that J1 harness? Is that an OEM part if I'm bypassing the TCM? I looked here, but none of these harnesses look like they plug into my PCM below



08-15-2016 07:27 PM
SpaceCase614
Searching has turned up nothing so far

I just received my 5.3 today, it's a 2004 but it's NOT an LM7 like they said, it's an L59. So I'm trying to figure what to do for fuel. I have the Novak kit to modify the stock pump to push 60psi for the LM7 but the L59 requires only 50psi which is basically the stock pump BUT it uses 33g/hr injectors and I can't find anywhere if the stock pump will support that or if I just need to put in the Walboro 255 intank to increase the volume while staying at 50psi. Also, being that the regulator at the tank is 50psi and my specific 2004 has a return on the rail because it's an L59, can I just cap the return at the motor since it's only going to be fed 50psi?

Oh yeah, it's going in my 2003 TJ Rubicon.
08-13-2016 07:50 PM
63Willysplano
LS Brackets

Anyone used LS Brackets for any relocations? I am considering the AC relocation bracket to avoid notching the frame and also making any future maintenance much easier.

http://lsbrackets.com

Thoughts?
08-13-2016 02:07 PM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconJeepGuy View Post
Forgive me if this has been beaten to death already, but I couldn't find a definitive answer...

Do I need a TCM with my DBW pedal & TB if I'm running a TH400? I'm a little confused on what connector/harness I actually need from my PCM to the DBW pedal since I'm not running an electronically controlled trans. I'm not sure if I can run the wiring directly from the PCM to the pedal, or if it needs to go through a TCM regardless. I have the bastard-version LS2 out of a 2006 GTO along with the harness & PCM that came out of the vehicle. What I don't have is the DBW pedal & wiring for it nor do I have a TCM, but I'm not sure if I need it with a TH400. Not sure if it's relevant, but the Atlas I have does have the VSS connection. So the only electrical thing I'll have connected to my transmission will be a temp sensor I'm installing in the pan.
You don't need the TCM
You will need the TB and pedal for an 06 GTO
You will also need the J1 harness (plugs into J1 on the PCM)
08-13-2016 12:43 PM
RubiconJeepGuy
TCM needed for LS w/TH400?

Forgive me if this has been beaten to death already, but I couldn't find a definitive answer...

Do I need a TCM with my DBW pedal & TB if I'm running a TH400? I'm a little confused on what connector/harness I actually need from my PCM to the DBW pedal since I'm not running an electronically controlled trans. I'm not sure if I can run the wiring directly from the PCM to the pedal, or if it needs to go through a TCM regardless. I have the bastard-version LS2 out of a 2006 GTO along with the harness & PCM that came out of the vehicle. What I don't have is the DBW pedal & wiring for it nor do I have a TCM, but I'm not sure if I need it with a TH400. Not sure if it's relevant, but the Atlas I have does have the VSS connection. So the only electrical thing I'll have connected to my transmission will be a temp sensor I'm installing in the pan.
This thread has more than 25 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.