Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum - Reply to Topic
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Jeep - Hardcore Tech > 5.3 Jeeps
Notices

Thread: 5.3 Jeeps Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 11:39 AM
akecj7 Great that's what I thought but new to these motors and trying to trouble shoot them.
Today 11:17 AM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by akecj7 View Post
Great thanks for the help. Is there a voltage that I should look for when its pulsing? I will try this when I have time this week.
ignition = battery voltage
Today 11:11 AM
akecj7 Great thanks for the help. Is there a voltage that I should look for when its pulsing? I will try this when I have time this week.
Today 10:49 AM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by akecj7 View Post
The injectors that I put in were new Delphi FJ10062. When they got here the number on the box was different 25317628 which matched the injectors that were on the motor to begin with. I did some searching and everything that I found said these were equivalent. Do you think I need to have the ecm re-flashed? Is there a way to test the injectors to make sure they are good?
If the injectors match, no reprogram necessary.

You need air, fuel and spark. You need to figure out why all of a sudden you lost fuel. I doubt the brand new injectors are bad. While swapping them you caused another issue, or coincidentally something went wrong.

One side of the injector you should see ignition voltage. The other side should pulse while you are cranking.
Today 09:55 AM
akecj7 The injectors that I put in were new Delphi FJ10062. When they got here the number on the box was different 25317628 which matched the injectors that were on the motor to begin with. I did some searching and everything that I found said these were equivalent. Do you think I need to have the ecm re-flashed? Is there a way to test the injectors to make sure they are good?
Today 09:28 AM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by akecj7 View Post
I checked resistance at one point and I thought they were correct. I will check them again. Would O2 sensors being switch cause the engine not to start? When I parked it after the data above was taken it ran rough but it would run. Now it will not run at all.
I'm thinking that you induced an issue when you changed injectors. Were they new, same part number, from your local parts house? or did you get 8 out of the wrecking yard?
Today 09:23 AM
akecj7
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynehartwig View Post
Any chance your o2's are plugged in the wrong bank? ie bank1 is actually bank2 and etc?

Unplug bank1, and make sure you see the change on bank1. Bank1 is the drivers side...
I checked resistance at one point and I thought they were correct. I will check them again. Would O2 sensors being switch cause the engine not to start? When I parked it after the data above was taken it ran rough but it would run. Now it will not run at all.
Today 09:17 AM
waynehartwig Any chance your o2's are plugged in the wrong bank? ie bank1 is actually bank2 and etc?

Unplug bank1, and make sure you see the change on bank1. Bank1 is the drivers side...
Yesterday 09:24 PM
akecj7
Quote:
Originally Posted by akecj7 View Post
So I am having some issues with my motor. First, when I can get it to idle after a cold start the motor will climb to about 1100 RPM and stay there even when the engine is at running temp (200* F). The only way I can get it to drop idle is to shut it off and restart, when this is done it idles at about 500 which seems right. Second, sometimes it will idle fine then start stumbling. I pulled my plugs and they are all (8) black as black can be. They are not wet just black. I pulled the motor out of a wrecking yard with about 120,000 miles on it so I am going to be replacing them tonight. Third, it seems to be running rich. I pulled the data below and would like to help interpreting the results. It seems like bank one is really rich and bank 2 is really lean. Is this correct? If so, what could cause it to be like this? Thanks for the help in advanced.



Here is the scan tools collected data.

Okay after taking the advice given by Wayne, to check the injectors. I ended up breaking one and just replaced them all with an equivalent inject (box has the same number as the ones that were pulled). Now to the frustrating part. The engine will not fire. The only things that have changed from then to now is the injectors, transmission (still a 400) and ignition (now a toggle with push button start). It will crank for days but not fire. I have checked all the fuses and everything is getting power. I also checked and there is 60psi at the rail. I also checked and all my sensors are connected. Any suggestions?
02-18-2015 08:28 PM
sewell87 Can anyone tell me if there is a way to get the check engine light in the factory tj gauge cluster hooked up to the gm pcm or do I have to run a separate light on the dash? So far all the other gauges are working but I cant even find info on what wire turns this on, any help is appreciated.
02-18-2015 05:26 PM
shopteach Thanks Wayne
02-18-2015 03:24 PM
waynehartwig 06 GTO brake switch
http://150tunes.com/gallery/displayi...=16&fullsize=1
02-18-2015 10:59 AM
shopteach
Quote:
Originally Posted by sylgeist View Post
With an 06 there is already a pin on the brake switch that behaves like you need. I would have to check my notes, but I've been running off the stock switch for a long time and it works great (assuming your wiring isn't too hacked up). No relay needed!
Thanks, I don't think I hacked it up too much. I have been daily driving it for the past 4 months without issue. Well, other than the novak tach adaper isn't working and no lockup with the converter
02-18-2015 10:52 AM
sylgeist With an 06 there is already a pin on the brake switch that behaves like you need. I would have to check my notes, but I've been running off the stock switch for a long time and it works great (assuming your wiring isn't too hacked up). No relay needed!
02-18-2015 10:49 AM
shopteach
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayMcJay View Post
Use a standard automotive 5-pole 12V relay. Hook +12V to pole 30. Hook ground to pole 85. Hook your brake switch to pole 86. Hook pole 87a to your computer input. This will 'condition' the signal to be the opposite of how your brake pedal is. aka when the brake pedal has the lights on, this will have the voltage turned off and visa-versa. Check out the little diagram printed on a 5 pole relay and it should all become clear.

http://www.motorsportsdigest.com/tech/perform3.htm
Ok, I searched. Is this what I am looking for to get my converter to lock up with a 4l60e in an 06 Jeep TJ? Does anyone have a more detailed write up?
02-12-2015 06:33 PM
Roaddawg Thanks I'll do that when it warms up 23* for a high today.
02-12-2015 02:04 PM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roaddawg View Post
I was thinking crap in my core causing a flow problem that's my next test. Motor runs 190 constant so no problems there.
Exactly. Obviously if the motor doesn't have over heating issues, then the water pump is doing it's job. It's pretty cut and dry. You have to have flow or it's not going to work


I've had to flush the heater core twice in my motorhome, and it needs it again, because the heater doesn't work as good as it used to... It's amazing how much crap you get out of one. Use a garden hose, and change directions when the water starts coming out clear. Keep doing it until the change in directions only produces clear water.
02-12-2015 01:41 PM
Roaddawg I was thinking crap in my core causing a flow problem that's my next test. Motor runs 190 constant so no problems there.
02-12-2015 09:37 AM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roaddawg View Post
It has a new pump on it but I could have got a bad one. If the pump is week wouldn't it run hot?
Then maybe your heater core is plugged.

Thing is if you have an over heating engine, the quick test is turn the heater on - does it blow hot, or is it cold. If it's cold, the water pump isn't circulating. If it's hot, then the thermostat isn't opening.

Put that to work on yours, and you have no heat, so no hot water flow....For whatever reason.
02-12-2015 08:40 AM
matts88yj I went thru 3 thermostats before one finally worked properly. All of them were brand new off the shelf units as well. Finally got one that functioned properly and it has ran stronger than ever since. With the bum units I would run constantly on the cooler side by a fair bit. If you want to do a quick test to see if your thermostat is working properly start with the engine at ambient air temp. Fire it up and check your gauge or better yet, have a scanner hooked up that tells you when the coolant temp is at 150 degrees. Once it reaches this point feel your upper radiator hose. It should still be cool or just slightly above cool. If it is cool then the thermostat is doing it's job. If it's warm at all then it is letting the warm coolant into the radiator and cooling it off before the engine is up to temp.

I then did the pot of water test after yanking out the bad ones and none of them functioned properly. Just something you can do before tearing into it.
02-12-2015 01:25 AM
49willys_mogon
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roaddawg View Post
It has a new pump on it but I could have got a bad one. If the pump is week wouldn't it run hot?
New pump failure unlikely. Go through BV's write up and make a checklist that lines up with the ls criteria and relate that to your system. Then check rear plugs for signs running lean. Next make sure the system doesn't have air bubbles. Tstats can fail prematurely. Could a hose be collapsing. Need more details on the radiator. Pictures also would help. Is it cross flow? Cap sit higher than the water neck radiator return otherwise this is another reason why a surge tank is used.
02-11-2015 07:43 PM
Roaddawg It has a new pump on it but I could have got a bad one. If the pump is week wouldn't it run hot?
02-11-2015 10:06 AM
49willys_mogon Pump recommendation Flowkooler and the Robert Shaw tstat. Change both at the same time. Runs around $50 more than a stock delco. Part # below is for my 6.0 however if you follow the links you'll find what you need. Reading into Billavistas thread you'll read the following...

Quote:
Because cooling efficiency is directly related to coolant flow, the more flow the better, the higher the water pump's output the better. Typical small-block water pumps flow anywhere from 35-50 gallons per minute (GPM) which is sufficient for stock-like power in the 200+hp range. The "LS" series of water pumps flow about 100 GPM which is equivalent to a high-flow SBC water pump and sufficient for 5-600+ horsepower. Aftermarket pumps for many different engines are available for the harshest racing conditions that can flow up to 180+ GPM.

The first indication of a weak or failing water pump may often be observed as a problem with the rear-most cylinders - such as a lean condition (evident in plug readings or exhaust temperatures or a pre-ignition condition). This is because the engine block and cylinder head water jackets form a manifold through which the water pump must pump the coolant. If the pump is unable to produce the required pressure or flow, the farthest point from the pump (the rear cylinders) will experience the problem first.
From Flowkooler

Quote:
FlowKooler’s impellers today are precision machined from billet aluminum to flow more coolant. They feature larger diameters, tighter vane-to-pump casting clearances, shrouding, porting and add incremental vanes. These design elements are incorporated into the impeller for one purpose; to generate more flow to cool hot engines. Each impeller is anodized with a Military grade Type II Class II anodized surface coating to protect against corrosion and the damages of electrolysis. Engines at idle, engine cruising at slow speeds or engines stuck in stop-and-go conditions have something in common; lower coolant flow rate and reduced air circulation through the radiator. Flowkooler pumps increase the flow and create highway-speed flow rates. The pumps continue to deliver higher flow all along the rpm curve and when system throughput is maximized, FlowKooler pumps build block pressure. Increasing the block pressure by as much as 22% reduces hot spots on cylinder walls, prevents the formation of steam pockets in the engine block and prevents the cavitation of the impeller.
LS engines hi flow water pump

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bra-1669



General Specifications:
Type of Material of Pump Body Aluminum
Number of Blades on Impeller 16 CNC Aluminum
Direction of Rotation CCW
Back Plate Gasket, Number & Thickness 1/32"
Approximate Shipping Weight in Box, lbs 13.00
Related Specifications:
Fan Hub Working Height 6-7/16"
Shaft Diameter 1-1/8"
Hub Diameter 5-13/16"
Hub Bolt Holes (Center to Center) 1 13/16" (a) & (b), 2-9/16"
Bolt Holes, Number & Size 11
Inlet Outside Diameter 15/16"
Hose Connections 1st 2nd
Gender F F
Diameter 3/4" 3/4"
Threaded Yes Yes
Other Special Features:

16 blade CNC Machined Aluminum impeller system
Impeller blades at right angles to shaft
Type II Military grade surface coated impeller

Casting Cross Reference: Airtex 71615, ASC WP-9189, Brummer P-9189, Cardone New 5513136, Cardone New 58624, Cardone New 58563, Cardone New 58544, Eastern 18-1653, Eastern 18-1601, Gates 45005, GMB 130-7290, T&J 71615
02-11-2015 08:34 AM
waynehartwig
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roaddawg View Post
That's what I did. That link shows a surge tank that's what I need to get. Thanks
The surge tank isn't going to make it warm all of a sudden... Sounds like you have low flow from a bad water pump
02-11-2015 04:38 AM
Roaddawg That's what I did. That link shows a surge tank that's what I need to get. Thanks
This thread has more than 25 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.