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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 03:20 PM
aribelin Finally, after many years of want to do a V8 swap it is finally happening with lots of help from friends.

The first day:







Looking forward to getting this installed:

02-02-2016 12:54 PM
Why J?
Quote:
Originally Posted by showjyr View Post
Well I picked up a pair of factory take off LS3 manifolds for $100 and just need to find a home for the C6 Vette ones.

Now....who is the best to have reflash and tune my PCM? There's a lot of names and companies out there.
I'd like to squeeze little more power out of it based on my exhaust and whatever else I can do.
All emissions will be deleted and essentially everything else I don't need.
Wayne here on the board.
02-01-2016 05:22 PM
showjyr Well I picked up a pair of factory take off LS3 manifolds for $100 and just need to find a home for the C6 Vette ones.

Now....who is the best to have reflash and tune my PCM? There's a lot of names and companies out there.
I'd like to squeeze little more power out of it based on my exhaust and whatever else I can do.
All emissions will be deleted and essentially everything else I don't need.
01-31-2016 08:24 PM
Why J?
Quote:
Originally Posted by showjyr View Post
So I'm in the middle of a 5.3 swap in my 06 wrangler and just went to test fit manifolds...huge clearance issue. I was told corvette C6 manifolds would fit with the Advance Adapters mm kit but apparently they only work with their universal kit and not the TJ specific kit.

So what does fit?

I'm pretty sure the LS3 factory ones will...but I'm interested in something other than stock. I've seen a bunch of rear dump LS3 headers for around $200 but I'm not sure if the angled rear dump will work that's on most of them...or what ones will clear the top of the motor mount.
LS3 2010-2014 Camero will work.
01-31-2016 10:36 AM
showjyr So I'm in the middle of a 5.3 swap in my 06 wrangler and just went to test fit manifolds...huge clearance issue. I was told corvette C6 manifolds would fit with the Advance Adapters mm kit but apparently they only work with their universal kit and not the TJ specific kit.

So what does fit?

I'm pretty sure the LS3 factory ones will...but I'm interested in something other than stock. I've seen a bunch of rear dump LS3 headers for around $200 but I'm not sure if the angled rear dump will work that's on most of them...or what ones will clear the top of the motor mount.
01-26-2016 10:23 AM
oltmann
Quote:
Originally Posted by blistovmhz View Post
Well shit. So I picked up a Diablosport InTune and got it all setup today. One of the things I've been scratching my head about since day one with the 5.3, is the Oil Pressure PID. I've asked around lots but no one has an answer and most guy insist that OP isn't reported over OBD on the 04/05 ECU. Well, they're wrong.
The InTune managed to grab the correct PID just fine. Unfortunately, DS are ultra-proprietary dinks and won't tell anyone what the PID is, but at least now I know two things:
1. The ECU does in fact report Oil Pressure over the serial bus.
2. I have oil pressure!

Yes, dumbass move, driving around for 2 or 3 months now without knowing if I have OP, but whatever.

So that said, Imma pose the question again because I'm sure someone, somewhere, knows the answer.

What is the PID for Oil Pressure on the LM7?

Engine type/year: LM7 5.3 (2005 Sierra S1500 4x4)
PCM: 2004 LM7 5.3 (2004 Sierra S1500) - SERVNO: 12586242
Thanks to user GTOzilla on ls1gto.com, I think his solution is working for my 04 l59 5.3. I am getting a cold start idle psi in the high 50s and it settles down to about 45psi at warm idle.
Torque app now has Oil Pressure PID!!! - Page 3 - LS1GTO.com Forums

PID: 22115c
Min Value: 0
Max Value: 100 # This puts the needle at 12 o'clock at 50 psi
Scale: x1
Unit: psi
Equation: (A*0.65)-17.5
OBD Header: Auto

His adjustment factor to zero the value was 17.5 Mine seems to be closer to 18.5

If anyone is going to be at KOH that has a scan tool that shows oil pressure, it would be awesome to verify this value! PM/Email me.
01-18-2016 09:29 PM
GreenLJRub
Cold weather issues!

I have been having a big problem lately. When I drive my jeep in cold weather (30f or below) it will just shut down and not restart! (Today was 8) Its very random so I'm not sure what it is. I can usually wait about 10mins and it will start. It is not a relay or fuse. I have checked both! Sometimes when it starts the throttle pedal will work and sometimes it will lose communication. Its very frustrating since I drove it all spring, summer and fall with out a problem! Thanks in advance!
2005 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, L33 5.3L and 4l65e swap!
01-06-2016 09:58 AM
GrindToolAbrasives 85 Cj7 with a 1999 Ls1 w/ 4L60e, stock Dana 300 Transfer case with atlas adaptor.


[IMG][/IMG]
12-31-2015 12:18 PM
defbob
Quote:
Originally Posted by NERVIS View Post
holy shit I just fell in love. That thing is just perfect....
Thank you
12-31-2015 07:13 AM
NERVIS
Quote:
Originally Posted by defbob View Post
5.3l with an LS1 intake in my Willys MB





holy shit I just fell in love. That thing is just perfect....
12-30-2015 10:12 PM
jherrigton
Quote:
Originally Posted by marslim View Post
Anyone here have any experience/ info on EFI live or Usshift quick 4 software controlling a 4l80?
I'm looking for the best electronic control allowing for programming of full auto and the ability to have full manual with torque converter control when desired.
Any info would be awesome.
wayne could probably help you out there.
12-30-2015 09:47 PM
marslim Anyone here have any experience/ info on EFI live or Usshift quick 4 software controlling a 4l80?
I'm looking for the best electronic control allowing for programming of full auto and the ability to have full manual with torque converter control when desired.
Any info would be awesome.
12-26-2015 06:16 PM
defbob 5.3l with an LS1 intake in my Willys MB





12-24-2015 03:42 PM
jherrigton EDIT:


This is how I'm going to do it. That way the fan will turn on when i give it ground from the switch inside of the jeep, not just when the compressor turns on, then cuts out when the compressor does.

This ALSO keeps the fan from turning the air conditioning on when the fan kicks on.

I may have to tune the idle up a little bit to keep the engine from bogging down.. I will see and report my findings.
12-24-2015 09:21 AM
blistovmhz
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS-YJEEP View Post
Hey guy's,

Wrapping up my 89 YJ 5.3 swap.

Looking for a wiring diagram to eliminate the original 2.5l ECU and clean up the wiring from it.

Where is the best place to find this spaghetti map? Chiltons have a color coded map? Thanks.
... Grab ECU, pull hard.
If your 5.3L is already wired up, and you've got everything working, shouldn't anything remaining just be ripped out? I just grabbed the few wires I needed from the Chrysler ECU, and threw out everything else. All the electrics took me about half a day.
12-24-2015 08:54 AM
LS-YJEEP Hey guy's,

Wrapping up my 89 YJ 5.3 swap.

Looking for a wiring diagram to eliminate the original 2.5l ECU and clean up the wiring from it.

Where is the best place to find this spaghetti map? Chiltons have a color coded map? Thanks.
12-23-2015 09:45 PM
waynehartwig If you run the GM pressure sensor, that should turn the electric fans on and let the engine know the compressor just turned on, to increase the amount of air flow to keep the idle stable
12-23-2015 07:38 PM
jherrigton Can anyone share how they ran air conditioning on their swap with a 2003/4 and up pcm?

Chevy decided to run the air conditioning circuit through a module inside and the PCM looks for a signal through the stock air conditioning controls.. Not just a ground or 12v signal. I thought I had it a while back, but as it turns out the engine would have trouble idling if it didn't run through the PCM...

Post 5092 was my original post about air conditioning.

Edit: I'm reading this Novak paper I got with my air conditioning bracket relocation kit.. It reads "if specified and ordered with your harness, the light green wire needs to be a 12V+ power source from the jeep dash air conditioning control switch.

The light green with a black stripe wire goes through the pressure sensors and then to the compressor. This is wired in a series, into the first one, back out, through the next sensor and then to the compressor. The other wire on the compressor needs to be grounded. This should all be done with the factory sensors and the pig tails from the old jeep harness. The lead for the GM compressor is supplied with the Novak harness."

So, what they did was run a wire through both jeep sensors(both closed in normal operation) powered up with 12 volts. On the other end of the compressor, the wire was grounded. Completing the circuit. If one of the low or high pressure sensors were tripped, 12 volts would be cut off, breaking the circuit and stopping the compressor..


Last thing, can someone confirm that the engine won't die when I turn the air conditioning on?
12-19-2015 07:44 PM
tech180
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmkommes View Post
From someone named driveshafter I'd expect better info.

Was it really easier to continue typing about CAPS lock than to retype it properly?

How many axles have centered yokes? The few I measured were NOT centered therefore it would be better to NOT center the driveline, but to match the plane of the rear axle yoke.

How many front shafts are directly in line?

The driveshaft doesn't know if its offset to the DS or PS any better than it knows a height change.

If I take my jeep and lay it on it's passenger side is the driveshaft all the sudden going to be out of alignment? NO.
Only time i have ever seen a drive shaft that wasent centered causing issues was with leaf sprung rigs that didnt have a track bars or proper geometry on links to keep the axle centered. Under heavy torque the shaft would want to right itself to center and cause axle rear steer. I am running a sterling 10.5 in my JK and its off set by 1.5" and know lots of guys running axles with their shafts off by an inch or two without any problems, just as long as ya have something to keep your axle centered and good bushings on your mounts it shouldent be an issue IMO.
12-19-2015 07:36 PM
kmkommes From someone named driveshafter I'd expect better info.

Was it really easier to continue typing about CAPS lock than to retype it properly?

How many axles have centered yokes? The few I measured were NOT centered therefore it would be better to NOT center the driveline, but to match the plane of the rear axle yoke.

How many front shafts are directly in line?

The driveshaft doesn't know if its offset to the DS or PS any better than it knows a height change.

If I take my jeep and lay it on it's passenger side is the driveshaft all the sudden going to be out of alignment? NO.
12-19-2015 05:05 PM
driveshafter
driveshaft

YOU NEED TO CENTER THE YOKE AND HERES WHY sorry caps lock was on when a driveshaft turns at every rotation it like someone snapping a rope and the wave that roles down it happens. if you snap the rope at both ends it cancels itself out in the middle same thing happens with u-joints every rotation the u-joint moves rapidly to another position with lifted trucks you have noticed that a cv style shaft helps remove vibs because it cuts the angle in half per u-joint on the dcv side now if you add another angle the drive shaft kind of gets confused because the angles on the rear are pointed straight up and the t/case is level causing vibration central an inch and a half isn't that bad for the rear but centered with the rear is the best
12-18-2015 04:21 PM
tech180 built up 5.3, 4l80, titan black box and np205 here.

12-17-2015 11:48 AM
blistovmhz Ditto. Just figure out where the driveline naturally wants to sit (where the motor mounts want it pointed) and if the angle from output to pinion isn't ridiculous, call it a day.
12-17-2015 08:39 AM
JayMcJay
Quote:
Originally Posted by jherrigton View Post
Can someone go out and measure to see if the rear output yoke is centered in the frame rails. If If i were to set my drivetrain to line up with the old transmission mount holes in the skid plate, the yoke is off center by about 1.5 inches.. Should i move it over to center? or is this offset normal?
You can put the centerline of the engine/tranny/tcase combo wherever you want. There are no hard and fast rules. The left/right angle the driveshaft runs at just adds to the up/down angle. As long as the combined angle is within specs, you're golden.
It's just a jeep, don't overthink it!
12-17-2015 08:34 AM
jherrigton Can someone go out and measure to see if the rear output yoke is centered in the frame rails. If If i were to set my drivetrain to line up with the old transmission mount holes in the skid plate, the yoke is off center by about 1.5 inches.. Should i move it over to center? or is this offset normal?

Edit: looks like this is fine and not detrimental to the project. I can actually adjust my novak mounts to change this if need be.
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