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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-02-2017 11:44 AM
cheapthrillb2
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridinlj View Post
Thanks everyone for trying to help. here is my issue. I know the wh/tn wire turns the test light on when I have the brakes off and turns the test light off when its pressed. The green connector will do the same but if I tie into one of those then its hot all the time. the wh/tn stays the same. both purple wires do nothing unless I tie into one of them with one of the wires. the gr/red is hot all the time. I tied into pr/wh and it then stays constant hot and pr/yl would go on/off. my understanding is that both my wire I have for TCC needs to make a circuit. So i'm kind of lost at why the wires are doing what they are doing.

As for your wires cheapthrill, it looks like you have both tcc wires tied into the speed control wires?
My jeep didn't have cruise installed factory.

Cruise is supplied 12v via the wire I tapped into. When I press the pedal I lose the 12v signal which on a cruise vehicle would then turn off the cruise via loss of voltage.

My LS is drive by wire. I wired in an aftermarket cruise control switch.
04-02-2017 11:00 AM
ridinlj Thanks everyone for trying to help. here is my issue. I know the wh/tn wire turns the test light on when I have the brakes off and turns the test light off when its pressed. The green connector will do the same but if I tie into one of those then its hot all the time. the wh/tn stays the same. both purple wires do nothing unless I tie into one of them with one of the wires. the gr/red is hot all the time. I tied into pr/wh and it then stays constant hot and pr/yl would go on/off. my understanding is that both my wire I have for TCC needs to make a circuit. So i'm kind of lost at why the wires are doing what they are doing.

As for your wires cheapthrill, it looks like you have both tcc wires tied into the speed control wires?
04-01-2017 06:29 AM
rcherb
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayMcJay View Post
If you can't get the correct signal off your brake switch you can use a relay to condition the signal.
Grab any old 5 pin relay
Wire 85 to your brake light wire
Wire 86 to ground.
Wire 30 to +12V
Wire 87a to the TCC signal on the ECU

Should the +12v be directly to the battery with fuseable link? OR should I get it from a +12v start/run source ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapthrillb2 View Post
Purple - TCC Brake Switch - This wire tells the PCM when you hit the brakes. It needs 12v+ all the time, and the brake switch should "open" this circuit when you hit the brakes

Wonder why my Novak stuff said it the other way????

Anyway, I'm just going to assume that this is probably causing my shifting problem???? Shifts fine from 1-2, then revs high before going into 3rd and then never goes into 4/OD.
04-01-2017 06:11 AM
cheapthrillb2 05 Rubicon shows same pin out as my 04. But your picture matches 06 pin out.

But function on wires seems same.



03-31-2017 05:07 PM
cheapthrillb2 It's a blue/red wire at the brake switch at the pedal on my 04. Between yellow/red and pink/blue wires.



Disregard the shifting wiring, haven't cleaned it up from experimenting with getting the cruise control hooked up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridinlj View Post
Cool thanks cheapthrillb2. and yes its in my sig. an 05 LJ
When your probing the wires for + voltage do you have the key on?
03-31-2017 02:16 PM
ridinlj
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapthrillb2 View Post
I think it's the purple white. I'll verify tonight on my jeep. What year is yours? Mines an 04 LJ. I know one of the wires on the stock brake switch is 12v hot till pressed then loses voltage.

Nevermind I assume it's in your sig
Cool thanks cheapthrillb2. and yes its in my sig. an 05 LJ
03-31-2017 01:56 PM
cheapthrillb2 I think it's the purple white. I'll verify tonight on my jeep. What year is yours? Mines an 04 LJ. I know one of the wires on the stock brake switch is 12v hot till pressed then loses voltage.

Nevermind I assume it's in your sig
03-31-2017 12:53 PM
ridinlj


I have two wires for the TCC. The other pic is the connector that plugs into the brake switch. I know the green wires are ground. I really want to tie the two wires into the connector for ease, but not sure which one. I have everything else done on my build and I've even driven it. If anyone knows I appreciate it a lot.
03-31-2017 12:00 PM
cheapthrillb2 Purple - TCC Brake Switch - This wire tells the PCM when you hit the brakes. It needs 12v+ all the time, and the brake switch should "open" this circuit when you hit the brakes
03-31-2017 10:56 AM
rcherb
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridinlj View Post
Well when I did a test light on the brake switch, no light went out when the brakes would be pressed vs not pressed. Thats what I am basing my info on. I will look into what you said JaymcJay. Thanks
So my wiring guide from Novak says that the tcc needs 12V when the brake pedal is depressed. Is it the opposite? The TCC needs a contstant 12v but no power when the brake is depressed?
03-31-2017 06:50 AM
ridinlj
Quote:
Originally Posted by ACRay View Post
My 06 has the correct wires coming from the brake switch that will provide a constant hot until the brake is pressed. I've got wiring info on my phone, but can't post the pics on here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayMcJay View Post
If you can't get the correct signal off your brake switch you can use a relay to condition the signal.
Grab any old 5 pin relay
Wire 85 to your brake light wire
Wire 86 to ground.
Wire 30 to +12V
Wire 87a to the TCC signal on the ECU

Well when I did a test light on the brake switch, no light went out when the brakes would be pressed vs not pressed. Thats what I am basing my info on. I will look into what you said JaymcJay. Thanks
03-31-2017 05:02 AM
JayMcJay
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridinlj View Post
What is everyone doing for the TCC hookup to make the torque converter work properly?.
If you can't get the correct signal off your brake switch you can use a relay to condition the signal.
Grab any old 5 pin relay
Wire 85 to your brake light wire
Wire 86 to ground.
Wire 30 to +12V
Wire 87a to the TCC signal on the ECU

03-30-2017 06:04 PM
ACRay
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconJeepGuy View Post
Why didn't they fit? What is the difference (as far as fitment is concerned) between the headers and the stock manifold?
The lower primary tubes hit my motor mounts, but I'm using the Novak bolt ins and they're pretty big so yours might not be in the way.
03-30-2017 06:03 PM
ACRay
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridinlj View Post
What is everyone doing for the TCC hookup to make the torque converter work properly? I have an 05 LJ with a 4.8/4l60e going in it. Is there a way for the factory brake switch or do I need to use something else? I was told I might be able to use a 96 Camaro brake switch.
As for headers I have the Hooker headers with Daves Customs motor mounts and everything fits just fine.
My 06 has the correct wires coming from the brake switch that will provide a constant hot until the brake is pressed. I've got wiring info on my phone, but can't post the pics on here.
03-30-2017 02:34 PM
ridinlj What is everyone doing for the TCC hookup to make the torque converter work properly? I have an 05 LJ with a 4.8/4l60e going in it. Is there a way for the factory brake switch or do I need to use something else? I was told I might be able to use a 96 Camaro brake switch.
As for headers I have the Hooker headers with Daves Customs motor mounts and everything fits just fine.
03-29-2017 05:27 PM
RubiconJeepGuy
Quote:
Originally Posted by matts88yj View Post
Maybe it's a good thing I still have my factory G8 manifolds laying around.
Well I ordered the BBK headers today and they should be here for the weekend from Summit, so I'll know soon enough if they're work with the the AA mounts. At least the MM are still tacked in so if I need to move 'em a little I can
03-29-2017 01:24 PM
matts88yj
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconJeepGuy View Post
Winner, winner, chicken dinner
Maybe it's a good thing I still have my factory G8 manifolds laying around.
03-29-2017 10:26 AM
RubiconJeepGuy
Quote:
Originally Posted by ACRay View Post
Those are they type of headers I tried and couldn't fit in my TJ.
Why didn't they fit? What is the difference (as far as fitment is concerned) between the headers and the stock manifold?
03-29-2017 10:13 AM
ACRay
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconJeepGuy View Post
Winner, winner, chicken dinner


and in stainless...

Those are they type of headers I tried and couldn't fit in my TJ.
03-29-2017 08:25 AM
rcherb
4l60E Shifting Issue

So I'm having a shifting issue with my transmission. I had my harness and PCM done by novak. I had my transmission rebuilt by a local guy here in MD. My transmission shifts from 1-2 smoothly and on time, but when it shifts to 3rd, it revs way up before shifting and then it is smooth, but then it won't ever shift into 4/OD. Its a stockj 4l60E with a b&M cooler, it has the correct amount of fluid, but i'm at a loss.

It previously gave me a P0706 code, which was due to me not having the Park Netural Switch wired in properly. I now have this issue but no codes. Any thoughts?
03-28-2017 08:59 PM
RubiconJeepGuy Winner, winner, chicken dinner


and in stainless...
03-28-2017 06:49 PM
pcoplin I made my own mounts, but chose the CTS-V manifolds. They also have o2 ports right between 2 and 3 cylinder.
03-28-2017 06:21 PM
RubiconJeepGuy Thanks for the info on the headers guys. I talked with AA and they said that I'm supposed to run the truck manifold/headers with their motor mounts...that would have been good info to know before ordering And those AA headers are not for an LS, so those are out. It sounds like the 2010-2015 Camaro SS headers/manifolds are a solid option, so I'm looking at going that route. I'm really digging these



They're the Hooker Blackheart stainless headers with 1 & 7/8" primary tubes to a 2.5" collector with a 2-bolt flange (which should make packaging easier at the flange). It'll be TIGHT, but it looks like it would work.
03-28-2017 04:04 PM
matts88yj
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcherb View Post
What battery is everyone running. I have a Yellow Top that I was running in the jeep from before, But I think it might have just died, I wasn't sure if I should get another YellowTop due to the Winch, or a Redtop for starting purpose or something else all together?
Odyssey is what I'm running in my YJ. I had one put in and it lasted me around 10 years if I remember right. They weren't easy years either with multiple full discharges (traced down a short) and lots of vibration with good old leaf springs and PA roadways. I put another one in last summer and have no doubts it will serve me well for many more years.
03-28-2017 04:01 PM
matts88yj
Quote:
Originally Posted by knaffie View Post
I'll check out the air gap situation closer. Good idea.

It was tuned on their chassis dyno.

I don't know how to be absolutely sure it was bled properly, but the cooling system has been emptied and refilled 4X by me and once by a good shop. I would assume the air would eventually work its way out, but maybe not?

The radiator is completely covered by the A/C condenser and the trans cooler is up there too. That can't be changed unless I delete the A/C, which isn't happening. I could pull the winch off pretty easily, but it's not blocking it too bad IMO. It's not like a 8274 or Powerplant.
I closed up the air gap on the top a bit with some creativity and I could tell there was more air going thru the radiator for sure. How much, well I didn't measure before and after since there would have been a ton of variables involved but it does work well. I had it even before the Novak radiator when I was messing with the AA rad that was garbage but I digress.

As far as bleeding/burping the air out of the cooling system is for my setup (no surge tank just a radiator and overflow tank) I took off the upper radiator hose at the radiator end and poured coolant into that hose until it came up into the hose a bit. I then reattached the hose and then filled the radiator up until it was full. I then started it up with the cap off and let it get up in temperature a bit and it burped some air at that point but that was it. I put the cap back on and let it idle up to operating temp so that the thermostat opened up and coolant could cycle completely thru the system. After it cooled off I kept checking the fluid level and it only took a little bit more coolant and that's it.

After looking at your setup you shouldn't have much air flow issues with your winch on there but I'd be curious if removing it for a quick test drive would change your results at all. Out of curiosity, does your fan shroud have the "flaps" on it that open up when you're driving at higher speeds?
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