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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 04:51 PM
ACRay
Quote:
Originally Posted by nycreecy View Post
I'm with you on swaps being expensive. I spent too much time messing with the tach emulator and $ shipping things back & forth. Even bought an oscilloscope to diagnose. It would have been cheaper, time wise, to do a dash panel & gauge pkg from the beginning. Live and learn. Speedhut stuff was approx $700 with 20% discount. Price depends on how you configure. I optioned up for the GPS speedo.


YUP! worried because I'm going down the use the stock gauges road and I've heard a few horror stories on the tach. Either way though I want it to work so I can use my Jeep AC controls too and I believe in the 6 months worth of reading this and other threads have I remember needing a rotating motor signal going to the Jeep PCM to allow the power to be sent to engage AC clutch. Right now my motor is apart in the garage waiting for Comp Cam to get here and then I get to start with the rest of the headaches
Yesterday 01:35 PM
nycreecy I'm with you on swaps being expensive. I spent too much time messing with the tach emulator and $ shipping things back & forth. Even bought an oscilloscope to diagnose. It would have been cheaper, time wise, to do a dash panel & gauge pkg from the beginning. Live and learn. Speedhut stuff was approx $700 with 20% discount. Price depends on how you configure. I optioned up for the GPS speedo.
Yesterday 12:23 PM
ACRay
Quote:
Originally Posted by nycreecy View Post
I got ya, but was wondering what total with gauges was... then I thought about it and might not want to know. This 5.3 swap has been expensive enough, I don't need to add cool gauge panel and gauges to my wish list LOL
09-24-2016 11:54 AM
nycreecy
Quote:
Originally Posted by ACRay View Post
How much does that joker right there cost?
Jeep TJ Gauge Panel
09-24-2016 11:05 AM
ACRay How much does that joker right there cost?
09-23-2016 04:11 PM
nycreecy
Quote:
Originally Posted by aribelin View Post
My LS is a Gen IV so the emulator wasn't an option and I went with Redline, however, my 2006 oil pressure gauge doesn't work because it's missing a crank signal. Having to do it over again I think I would do the Jeepspeed reluctor on the balancer to fix the tach.
Same here. Both Novak and Redline busted. Novak never worked and Redline oil pressure working depends on what yr cluster. I used a 12volt unlimited gauge panel and speedhut.com gauges. Matt @ 12volt unlimited was great to deal with. I think it turned out nice. The racepak system also looks slick.

[IMG][/IMG]
09-23-2016 03:57 PM
cheapthrillb2 I've questioned accurate readings from mine. I put the jeep sensor in the factory ls spot on the passenger head (tapped the hole to match sensor threads). Seems the jeep sensor and dash gauge read higher then what the ls sensor sees.

Was wondering being at the back of the engine, near Manifold collector, right near the firewall was the cause for a hotter reading.
09-23-2016 03:48 PM
aribelin
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcherb View Post
Has anyone ever had any real luck in a TJ with Novak's Tach Emulator? Or is it better go with Redline to make the factory gauges work?
My LS is a Gen IV so the emulator wasn't an option and I went with Redline, however, my 2006 oil pressure gauge doesn't work because it's missing a crank signal. Having to do it over again I think I would do the Jeepspeed reluctor on the balancer to fix the tach.

I'm still chasing heat issues to some degree, my Ron Davis radiator helped a bunch with my first good tune (a whole other story by itself-third tune vender and second one on a dyno) but it still gets into the mid 230's on the highway. Campbell's installed a Autometer manual temp gauge in the passenger head to compare to the temps the computer is showing and they are sometimes up to 30* off with the computer being the high one. I guess I should have tested the new gauge in boiling water to make sure that it is accurate.

The new 26" twin fan Ron Davis radiator (pretty tight fit )





09-23-2016 09:56 AM
cheapthrillb2 I have been unimpressed with it in my 04 LJ.
09-23-2016 09:19 AM
rcherb Has anyone ever had any real luck in a TJ with Novak's Tach Emulator? Or is it better go with Redline to make the factory gauges work?
09-22-2016 07:17 AM
j20brett Pedal is best to get whatever came with the vehicle, but I prefer the metal ones as they can be modified much easier. Take care to not overheat the pedal if you do modify it, as the plastic bushings can melt and throw off the sensors in the pedal.
09-21-2016 04:13 PM
pcoplin I've searched through, and couldn't find much.


For a TJ, what pedal is recommended? I almost pulled a DBW from an truck, but it was all plastic. Do these work without modding the plastic part, or should I look for a metal style. Thanks!
09-21-2016 04:09 PM
banipal19 How's the fuel filter?
09-21-2016 01:27 PM
jkruby I checked the volts at the battery and at the pump they were the same (11 volts)

The polarity is correct, I took the discharge hose loose to confirm it is pumping, no hoses show signs of being crimped.
09-21-2016 06:35 AM
foo.c Can you hear the pump turning on?
09-20-2016 12:05 PM
cheapthrillb2 Or you have polarity switched at pump.
09-20-2016 11:47 AM
Vinman
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkruby View Post
I have a 6.0 standalone harness.

I pulled the intake and did a head gasket swap, after installing everything I have no fuel pressure. I have changed 3 fuel pumps (e-2000) and swapped pressure regulators, but still no change. It barely trickles out of the rail at the port on the cross over. HELP!

Thanks
First 2 things I would check is a blocked fuel line or inadequate voltage at the pump when its running.
09-20-2016 09:41 AM
jkruby I have a 6.0 standalone harness.

I pulled the intake and did a head gasket swap, after installing everything I have no fuel pressure. I have changed 3 fuel pumps (e-2000) and swapped pressure regulators, but still no change. It barely trickles out of the rail at the port on the cross over. HELP!

Thanks
09-17-2016 09:12 AM
cheapthrillb2 I'm running Flowmaster hush power, not to bad.
09-16-2016 06:35 AM
marslim Anyone have any input on muffler/ resonator setup that will give a quiet but still somewhat throaty sound?

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
09-15-2016 06:42 AM
Deino almost ready to put this into my CJ7, been reading all the helpful ideas on this post, thanks to all for that, it has helped a lot.
09-11-2016 03:48 PM
racer32 Finally got my 98 XJ done. I'm about half way through my second tank of fuel. Lots of good info in this thread. Big thanks to everyone for contributing....

Specs:
2005 5.3 LM7, 706 heads, LS1 Intake
4L60E - Transgo Shift Kit, Corvette servo
NP231 Hybrid HD Transfer case
Griffin aluminum radiator
Delco DR44 160 amp alternator
Custom motor mounts
Custom tcase adapter
2000 F body exhaust manifolds, 2.5" into 3" Y, Magnaflow cat and muffler



I did some videos on the swap too:
https://www.youtube.com/user/jesscneal
09-10-2016 08:53 AM
foo.c Yep, DW200 pump installed. 60 PSI at the rails.
09-10-2016 08:00 AM
foo.c Welp, just going off the part numbers on the fuel pump it appears that Novak built my setup with the wrong pump.

I'm a little mad because I have done the whole thing over now and would have saved myself time and money doing it myself in the first place.

Original fuel pump:
Delphi FE0115
Amp 5.5
Application Pressure 83 kPa
Diameter 36.7mm
Flow Rate 22.5
Fuel Type Gas
Inlet Size 19.1
Length 121.3mm
Mount Type Internal
Outlet Size 8
Type/Series In-Tank
Voltage 12 v

Replacement fuel pump
Delphi FE0114
Amp 13
Application Pressure 425 kPa
Diameter 36.7mm
Flow Rate 27
Fuel Type Gas
Inlet Size 19.1
Inlet Type Straight
Length 120mm
Mount Type Internal
Outlet Size 8
Outlet Type Straight
Relief Pressure 500-750 kPa
Terminal Type Pin Modual
Type/Series In-Tank
Voltage 12 v

So the 114 is much higher pressure. I would have to guess the 115 is for a TBI setup. (83 kPa is 12 psi and 425 kPa is 62 psi)

For what it's worth, I am installing a DeatschWerks DW200 pump instead of the replacement that Novak sent. It flows 225 LPH at 60 psig. Should be plenty of overkill.
09-04-2016 05:39 PM
foo.c Finally got engine #2 started.

I ended up doing a not quite a full rebuild on it. New oil pump, timing set, front and rear seal, oil pan gasket, head gaskets and ARP head bolts.

I was a little nervous after all that. I cranked it over without the ignition on a few times to hopefully get some oil moving through it. It sputtered a bit on the first crank when I finally turned the ignition on and then it fired right up. It didn't want to idle, but I figured that was enough anyway without an oil pressure gauge and no coolant. I still haven't replaced the supposedly bad fuel pump, so that might be an issue too.

Anyway, I think can finally get this project moving to a conclusion now. Thanks for everyone's help.
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