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Old 02-08-2012, 03:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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One million questions

Okay so a little about me before i start asking a thousand questions

I have three vehicles at the moment:
1994 Nissan Skyline GTR
1983 Datsun 720
1989 Diesel golf DD


I have swapped the engine in the datsun 720 from a z22 to a ka24e from a 240sx here are a few pictures because everyone loves those.
When i got it doesn't look too different now just added some slightly bigger tires and some rims off a wagoneer






Okay so I have a few specific questions about a 3 link sas
I was going to do a soa sas but after reading all of D_Boz samurai build really made me want to convert it to a 3 link up front and 4 link in the rear and build it low (as everyone says). Going to just do the front this year. I dont own a good welder (199$ flux core pos) so i am planning to tack everything in place and once it is all good pay a welder to come and weld everything up.

Now onto the specific questions most are pretty basic but this is my first project like this. I have been reading a lot but am a bit overwhelmed by all the different possibilities.
I am on a budget as my monbey is split between my GTR and Datsun and the GTR eats up more than its share for sure...

Would 7/8 rod ends work for the lower links? or would 1.25" be a better solution? Was going to use misalignment spacers and i notice it makes the width of the joint to be 2.625" and the width of most brackets are 2.63" just rounded? use a couple small washers? supposed to have space?
I have looked at a few builds and cant quite seem to see what angles everyone runs their lower links at most are different. Should they be parallel or a bit of an angle out or in? parallel upper link? Pan hard bar best when it is parallel to the axle?

was going to fab my own brackets except maybe get the coil spring ones from ballistic fab with the rod ends and spacers do you guys make a little spacer to hold the brackets apart while welding to get the perfect width?

Would a toyota axle hold up to 36" tires alright? plan to daily this truck in the winter at some point most likely a year or two down the road may just run 33s. Would a 4 link cause issues if you wanted to tow a small 1500-200lb boat? thinking i might need to have a different set of springs for that or maybe have to add some air bag helpers? Should i bother with a toyota axle or just stick something like a dana 44 under there while i am at it?

I think that is it for now I am sure i had some more questions but cant remember...

to do list so far:
relocate battery
remove box fix rust or replace box entirely maybe one from a d21 havent measured anything yet
por 15 rear part of frame and clean it up
cut out rusty rockers and weld in new stuff
remove engine again and paint engine bay along with clean transmission
remove and clean up emissions stuff on engine
3 link sas (fund rubber and trim fenders while i am at it may add some flares will need some mudflaps for the street sadly but will make them removable
por 15 front of frame
fix rusty floor and random rust spots by windshield must have seen some nasty winters in this truck
fix up hack job stereo install clean up my wire nest from the engine wiring harness and find a way to tuck it all under the dash
find out why my heater constantly has air flowing in based on vehicle speed and ambient temp something bust me stuck open
GO WHEELING!

that is my list for this year next year want to be able to drive it and get rid of my golf by next winter hopefully i don't go too overboard and make something i cant DD but that may happen lol

next year i'll:
rear axle swap and 4 link
rocker guards somewhere in there
fix the problems i am sure will have cropped up from previous stuff :P


Thanks
Nathyne

Last edited by Nathyne; 02-08-2012 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 02-08-2012, 04:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Just 7/8 rodends unless you are putting coilovers in and mounting then to the trailing arms.
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Old 02-09-2012, 02:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks i'll run 7/8"

rod ends:
3x Left hand thread
3x Right hand thread
MXM-14-12 Midwest Control Chromoly 7/8" Rod End with 3/4" bore
looking to keep this in a fairly small budget so these seem to fit well

Tubing adapters
matching ones from ballistic fab
7/8" -14 tpi Tube Adapter
lower links will be 2" OD DOM
upper link 1.75"


for steering was thinking 5/8 rod ends
MXM-10 Midwest Control Chromoly 5/8" Rod End
2x r hand thread
2x left hand thread
4x 5/8" -18 tpi Tube Adapter 1" or 1.25" OD DOM do you think for steering?

what spacers do you think i should use for all of this?
safety washers on steering seems like a good idea
don't really know too much about this but from what i have read and understand i believe all these rod ends will work with each other don't want to order a bunch of parts and have a bunch of stuff that wont work with each other lol

thanks
Nathyne
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Old 02-09-2012, 05:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Just personal preference, but I would go with ruffstuff. They are a vendor on this board. Ballistic fucked a bunch of people over recently.
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Old 02-09-2012, 07:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I used Ruffstuff on my truck and even importing them into New Zealand they were cheap and easy to deal with. And they will give you a discount for being a PBB member if you tell them.
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'll use them then, they even package everything together to make it easier! I also see the steering kit i think i'll just order a 7/8 one for the 20$ more. What size rod ends for the pan hard bar? 3/4" seem alright?
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Old 02-10-2012, 05:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'd go 7/8ths, then you only have to carry 2 spares.
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If you're on a budget go SOA not 3-link.
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96 4WD reg cab ka24e
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Old 02-14-2012, 05:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boardbysled View Post
I'd go 7/8ths, then you only have to carry 2 spares.
If you get them all the same eg all right hand or all left hand then you still have adjustment but they can't completely come out and you only need one spare.
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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the difference between those 7/8's joints and the brackets is 5 thousandths of an inch, which is extremely low tollerance, just enough to fit the joint in and tighten it down.
I would also go with Ruffstuffspecialties hiem joints, they are the best and impossible to brake. 7/8 are pretty big but if you plan on seriously wheelin this thing and droping the links on the rocks, I would go with 1.25 hiems with at least 3/8s wall or better DOM tubing.
good luck on ur build!
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