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Old 03-21-2012, 02:33 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Tuff crowd in the Nissan section mate
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:20 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Tuff crowd in the Nissan section mate
yeah. Nissan isn't a real strong offroad brand in the states. I could technically put it in the ford section though. lol
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Last edited by toughnut; 04-22-2012 at 12:37 AM.
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:07 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Well I've finally started doing a bit more with this. I've stripped the brackets that I don't need off the rear diff and I've started the fabrication of the upper links. Some things that I hadn't really thought of was that the diff pumkin isn't in the center of the diff housing. It seems that everything sits slightly off to the left other than the springs. It is basically centred around the pinion.

So here are some of the first pics of the triangulated upper links. These are only tacked in place and bare with me because I'm still waiting for my plasma cutter to get here so I'm cutting all these bracket sections with a 4 inch grinder and cutting discs. Definitely not the best way to do it but I was impatient and didn't want to wait for my plasma cutter to turn up. Its not too bad, just takes a lot longer to do and a lot of cleaning up with a grinding disc.

Another thing that is interesting is that by moving the diff back 300mm and triangulating the upper links. I have found that the factory length lower links are almost a perfect fit. I haven't done the chassis mounts for the uppers yet and I still need finish bracing and boxing in the diff. I've probably gone a bit overboard by using 5mm plate but it works pretty nicely. You could probably just use 3mm but this is what I had laying around so I've used the 5mm.

I've set the upper links at 60 degrees, so 30 degrees from centre for each link. That is about all I'll get and its what I was aiming for.


Do you realise you are going to tear the bushes up really quickly the way you have used the arms? The bolt through the bush should always be parrallel to the diff as the arm in effect is swinging in an arc that is 90* to the diff. With rodends it doesn't matter as long as they have enough movement but a bush needs to flex just for up and down travel.
That is why factory GQ (and GU) trailing arm bushes aren't square on the end of the arm.
FYI it is cheaper given current exchange rates (In NZ anyway) to use Ruff Stuff rodends than it is to get Nissan or urenthane bushes anyway. (US$69 for a pair of 3/4 - 7/8 rod ends, bungs etc)

(I've four linked my Navara with GQ running gear and have used GQ bushes at the chassis end and rodends at the diff.)
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:17 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Ummmm. How do you suppose that the bushes are only meant to move straight up and down? They are not directional. You can flex them in any direction and if you flex up the rear of a standard GQ/GU then it twists the bushes anyway. Having the bolts parallel with the diff the way you describe would put too much stress on the joints because there isn't a panhard rod and your lateral stress will be very high on the diff end of your links. Every single triangulated rear end that I've seen has the mounts angled out the way I have them.
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:57 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I swear I only went into the shed to do a clean up and then I saw the plasma cutter and well............. :?

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Old 03-25-2012, 06:15 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Looks like a good start!
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:29 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Yes they are uni directional but the way you have them will see them wear out quicker than the way I descibed.
I'd suggest that they aren't a very good bush for the purpose as the rubber must deform for any travel. What I'm suggesting is that by having the bolt parrallel with the diff the rubber will have to deform less for normal travel. Erathane with a crush tube would be better for the way I've descibed but will really tear up with your setup.
The better option still would be rod ends on the diff as they will last longer, are a similar price and will allow for better travel and control.
I'm not saying what you have done won't work, just suggesting something that will work better.

Last edited by darinz; 03-27-2012 at 05:31 PM. Reason: added coment.
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:39 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Also should add I use to have a MWB GQ winch truck (106"wb with turboed VH45 300rwkw etc). It had extended rear TA that use standard Nissan bushes and it would rip the centre out in quick time due to the increased travel. We tried erathane bushes but the flexing then tore those up. The new truck I'm building I've gone to erathane (Nolathane) at the front of the lower TA which also have the coilovers mounted on them and 1 -1/4 rod ends at the axles. The rodends will provide about 90% of the travel needed for flex so the bushes are only to allow for the little bit more and for inwards travel during articulation.
The uppers are rodends both ends.

(Just letting you know this is my experience and not a theory)
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Old 03-28-2012, 03:37 AM   #34 (permalink)
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I do like the idea of rod ends at least on the diff. I guess with some things I'm still thinking I'm building a registerable vehicle. But I'm slowly pulling myself out of that.
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Old 04-01-2012, 02:36 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Should live in NZ as I have rodends and design has been signed off by the engineer already!
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Old 04-22-2012, 12:37 AM   #36 (permalink)
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This is how it sits right now. Can't wait to get home and get some more done to it.


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Old 04-22-2012, 06:25 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Awesome. I love the over the top lunacy of the Aussie builds.
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:08 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Awesome. I love the over the top lunacy of the Aussie builds.
Really? I always thought the same about the states! lol
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:35 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Really? I always thought the same about the states! lol
Nah you guys just build bat shit crazy stuff on 34s and 35s. We build bat shit crazy stuff on 42s +

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Old 07-15-2012, 04:15 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Well I've been waiting for my new 2.5 inch Profender suspension to get built and I've also been chillin in Thailand so haven't got anything really done on the build for a couple of months. I did get the chance to visit the Profender factory in Thailand while I was there though so thats pretty cool and I got a great deal on my suspension.
So while I'm waiting for the shocks and coilovers to get here I've bought a couple of other things to get me moving forward. I bought a Model 3 bender and I also got the air diff locks and upgraded brakes for the front so a set of custom 330mm rotors for the front diff. Now I can strip it down and do all the bracing and rebuild it.
I also have a few ideas for the front end. It has radius arms so it doesn't flex that much and it makes it difficult to correct the castor if you lift the suspension. So I'm thinking of some custom adjustable radius arms. That way there are more linkages that I can either use solid mounts for faster events or I can use rubber bushes to give me more flex for slower events.
It'll be interesting to see how it all works and I can always just ditch it and go with a 5 link system if it doesn't work.
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Old 07-19-2012, 03:33 PM   #41 (permalink)
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This is so cool! Wish we would've gotten the Patrol Utes stateside!
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Old 07-20-2012, 05:12 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Thanks mate. The bigger patrols are great and you can do heaps with the 4.2l turbo diesel as well. But I'll be running a ford V8 in mine. Hopefully I can get started on building the front diff and the rest of the suspension soon.
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Old 08-24-2012, 09:53 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Well I've been busy spending money. Along with the suspension I've also now bought an after market ford windsor 351ci 4 bolt block. I've also bought all the stuff to bolt to it. Just need to get the AFR heads and the finish sourcing the rest of the rotating assembly and then bolt it together. I'm getting a decent strocker kit for this so it should be 427ci when I'm finished. No crap parts in this engine. Next on the list is the Atlas transfer and a built C4 auto next month. I still need to souce the high angle drive shafts for it.
There should be a huge pile of awesome parts waiting for me when I get home. Lots of bling.
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:30 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Really enjoying this build and great attention to detail. Keep up the good work.
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:39 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Cheers mate. I'll have some progress pics once I get home in a couple of weeks and start putting all this stuff together.
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Old 08-25-2012, 01:04 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Yeah. The list is getting longer of what I have bought. I guess it is time to update it.

GQ shorty that I've only got the chassis left from it. Wheel base is now 106 inches instead of 94 inches.

Chassis will now be cut in front of engine mounts and from 300mm behind cab

GU ute cab will run carbon kevlar panels

H230 rear diff braced, ARB locker (will have upgraded brakes)

GU braced front. ARB locker, 4330 alloy steering arms. (will have heat treated CVs and hydro assist and upgraded breaks)

Triangulated 4 link rear with extended wheel base. Will only triangluate the uppers.

Not sure about the front but looking at either 5 link or triangulated 4 link.

2.5 inch Profender coilovers and tripple bypass front and rear. 14 inch front and 16 inch rear.

2.5 inch hydraulic bump stops.

Engine:

427 ci windsor stroker. After market with 4 bolt mains and revised oil jacket and a roller cam.

scat crank (still to get)

scat H beam rods (still to get)

Acryllo pistons (still to get)

AFR 185 heads (still to get)

roller rockers

Typhoon intake manifold (Will be match ported)

Morroso electric water pump

High volume oil pump

F150 rear hump sump (Will be baffled)

Atlas transfer case with C4 adaptor and handbrake (Still to get)

C4 auto built to handle motor. (Still to get)

RED hydraulic winch

multi motor low mount winch

Custom cage and bar work

Digital race dash

Bride race seats

dual GPS

5 point harnesses

Nitrogen Air up system (This will pump up tyres and let me charge my shocks)

37 x 14.5 x 16 Maxxix creepies. (Not red tabs)

16 x 10 inch procomp rims. (Will get bead lock rims soon)

Full alloy race cell

all the spares I need.

I know I'm missing a whole heap of stuff that I haven't listed yet. But I have most of what I need now. Just a few big ticket items left to get then all the little extraineous stuff like lights and recovery gear etc.

Forgot to mention the after market steering column and also a complete aftermarket brake system. It will be what ever fits best inside the rims and give the largest diameter rotor. Custom rotor hats and probably wilwood, brembo or AP racing brakes. AP racing were kind enough to send me some tech drawings of a few of their calipers and rotors that are used in Dakar on the prototype cars and buggies. They aren't for public sale just yet but they have already said I can organise them through a local distributer. Not sure I I'll like the price as much as the service. haha
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Last edited by toughnut; 08-25-2012 at 01:25 AM.
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Old 08-25-2012, 09:14 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Awesome project man.
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Old 08-27-2012, 01:07 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Awesome project man.
Cheers mate. Hopefully it will look and go as good in the flesh once its built.
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Old 08-27-2012, 01:13 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Looking good. I hate it when the To Buy/To Do list is longer than the Brought/Done list.
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Old 08-31-2012, 10:17 PM   #50 (permalink)
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The Patrol are also very big here in Portugal, the problem is that we never got the 4.2... Only 2.8 and then the crapy 3.0Di.

Anyway, I really like the builds from that part of the world!
Especially the crazy fast/strong hydro winches that you use over there!!

How big is profender over there?
It just got to Portugal and I'm considering some (of the more mild kind ) for my Suzuki Samurai.
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