83' SAS Nissan 720 help! - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

uamikey11 · 09-16-2012, 08:29 PM

In the middle of a SAS on my 720 got everything ready from axles to shackles but I'm held up by a small thing got an idea but wondering if there is another alternative. So.. On most yota's when your doing the SAS you can just drill threw the frame for your front shackles and shackle hangers but my frame is not wide enouph and the measurments don't line up with the springs and where the spring have to sit on the axle. Wondering If anyone has any info on how people have done this before. Seen one way but its going to take some time to fab everything up but it can be done. I have heard of relocation shackles not sure if that will work but It seems like the best way to go if I can find the right ones that somebody has used before. So if anyone can give me any info or help or anything it would be a HUGE help at this point. Seen quite a few SAS on 720's around internet now so I'm sure theres a few differant ways to do it I'm hoping theres some kind of kit I could get or sumthing that would work. Would appreciate any help! Thanks..

MAster-O-Turbonics · 09-17-2012, 05:52 PM

720 Frame

OneFreakyMF · 09-19-2012, 12:59 PM

Are you running toyota axles? Full size? Waggy? I am running a full width Dana 44 so my spring mounts are set outside the frame rails. I'll try to get some close up pictures after work....

uamikey11 · 09-19-2012, 01:21 PM

I'm running yota axles full size 83 in the front and a 86 in the rear i posted the same post in the yota forum and a guy said somthing about slider boxes so i called the company got the measurments and they will work for my spring hangers already ordered a set should work perfect. Still interested in seeing how other people have done it so ya post some pics!

IslandPath · 09-20-2012, 11:12 AM

You could always move the spring perches on the axle...?

I lucked out on my Pathy because right where the body mount is happens to be almost the exact same width as my d-60, all I needed to do was drill a hole in the frame and sleeve a pipe in there that was slightly longer than the frame is wide (if that makes any sense) and then run a bit of a spacer on my shackles.

All that said 720's have narrow as hell frames at the front dont they?

uamikey11 · 09-20-2012, 01:15 PM

thought of moving the spring perches but that wont work because on one side the third member is i the way. I have a couple options like i said I ordered the slider boxes those can be welded to my frame in all kinds of differant ways to make it work. and yes the frames are super narow up front it tapers wider tourds the rear tho

uamikey11 · 09-20-2012, 08:37 PM

any advise anyone could give me on mounting up the springs to the axles. just how straight does everything need to be? any measurment tips you could give me.. anything would help I'm waiting on my slider boxes to arrive but after that I'm gonna get all the welding done and whatever else. just need some advise on putting the axles under the truck

IslandPath · 09-21-2012, 01:50 PM

Are you speaking of the spring perches? If thats the case just measure the width of your axle, find the center, decide on how far apart you want your springs (usually dictated by the front crossmember/spring hanger). Once you figure out where on the axle you want them, take some 2" or 2 1/2" square tube (i used 1/4" wall) and cut 5-6" and make some spring plates.

Before you tack them on you have to make sure your caster angle is where you want it for your knuckles, also making sure that your pinion is pointing as straight as possible towards the tcase.

In my case I had to turn the knuckles on my D-60 (which was a HUGE CUNT on a 60) to get a proper 7degree caster (meaning knuckles tilted back slightly) if you put your caster at 0 or worse -degrees to point your pinion at your tcase you will have an impossible time keeping your truck tracking straight down the road.

Hope that helps you out......remember, measure twice

uamikey11 · 09-24-2012, 10:39 PM

okay thanks alot i will keep all that in mind the truck should be all ready for welding by this weekend. just need some info on the drivelines I'm running yota axles and the nissan an yota flanges don't line up for the bolt pattern. what have you guys done for the drivelines for whatever type axles you used? anything would help just need some ideas

IslandPath · 09-25-2012, 07:13 PM

Well my truck has 1ton diffs so its a bit different than what you have going on. I just used 1350 ujoints on the diffs and on the rear d300 flange, on the d300 front output I bought a toyota yolk because they are super strong and have a big range of motion. Not sure if you can just buy new yolks for your case that have a toyota ujoint size.

I know a lot of toyota guys just turn the flanges and re-drill the new pattern beside the old pattern. NOt sure if you have enough "meat" so your holes arnt too close together tho.

uamikey11 · 09-26-2012, 02:38 PM

Hmm alright thanks i will keep that in mind. I think i read up of a guy who did it and he just took the rear driveline flang since it is bigger and just re drilled the wholes but i will have to look at everything. I have a new question about castor pinion angle i have 6 inch spring going on my truck so it should be around a 6 inch lift what size shims do you think i need and what should i keep in mind while lining everything up and trying to get the right driveline angle?

09-16-2012, 08:29 PM	#1 (permalink)
uamikey11 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2012 Member # 228247 Posts: 27	83' SAS Nissan 720 help! In the middle of a SAS on my 720 got everything ready from axles to shackles but I'm held up by a small thing got an idea but wondering if there is another alternative. So.. On most yota's when your doing the SAS you can just drill threw the frame for your front shackles and shackle hangers but my frame is not wide enouph and the measurments don't line up with the springs and where the spring have to sit on the axle. Wondering If anyone has any info on how people have done this before. Seen one way but its going to take some time to fab everything up but it can be done. I have heard of relocation shackles not sure if that will work but It seems like the best way to go if I can find the right ones that somebody has used before. So if anyone can give me any info or help or anything it would be a HUGE help at this point. Seen quite a few SAS on 720's around internet now so I'm sure theres a few differant ways to do it I'm hoping theres some kind of kit I could get or sumthing that would work. Would appreciate any help! Thanks..

09-17-2012, 05:52 PM	#2 (permalink)
MAster-O-Turbonics Datsun-A-Holic Join Date: Sep 2011 Member # 198027 Posts: 111	720 Frame __________________ 1971 Datsun 521 diesel 4x4 SAS Last edited by MAster-O-Turbonics; 09-17-2012 at 05:52 PM.

09-19-2012, 12:59 PM	#3 (permalink)
OneFreakyMF Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Member # 168194 Location: Belfair, WA Posts: 18	Are you running toyota axles? Full size? Waggy? I am running a full width Dana 44 so my spring mounts are set outside the frame rails. I'll try to get some close up pictures after work.... __________________ '81 DATSUN 720!! SAS w/ dana 44 and 12 bolt rear. Divorced np205. 36" Iroks

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

09-19-2012, 01:21 PM	#4 (permalink)
uamikey11 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2012 Member # 228247 Posts: 27	I'm running yota axles full size 83 in the front and a 86 in the rear i posted the same post in the yota forum and a guy said somthing about slider boxes so i called the company got the measurments and they will work for my spring hangers already ordered a set should work perfect. Still interested in seeing how other people have done it so ya post some pics!

09-20-2012, 11:12 AM	#5 (permalink)
IslandPath Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Member # 138007 Location: Vancouver Island Posts: 81	You could always move the spring perches on the axle...? I lucked out on my Pathy because right where the body mount is happens to be almost the exact same width as my d-60, all I needed to do was drill a hole in the frame and sleeve a pipe in there that was slightly longer than the frame is wide (if that makes any sense) and then run a bit of a spacer on my shackles. All that said 720's have narrow as hell frames at the front dont they?

09-20-2012, 01:15 PM	#6 (permalink)
uamikey11 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2012 Member # 228247 Posts: 27	thought of moving the spring perches but that wont work because on one side the third member is i the way. I have a couple options like i said I ordered the slider boxes those can be welded to my frame in all kinds of differant ways to make it work. and yes the frames are super narow up front it tapers wider tourds the rear tho

09-20-2012, 08:37 PM	#7 (permalink)
uamikey11 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2012 Member # 228247 Posts: 27	any advise anyone could give me on mounting up the springs to the axles. just how straight does everything need to be? any measurment tips you could give me.. anything would help I'm waiting on my slider boxes to arrive but after that I'm gonna get all the welding done and whatever else. just need some advise on putting the axles under the truck

09-21-2012, 01:50 PM	#8 (permalink)
IslandPath Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Member # 138007 Location: Vancouver Island Posts: 81	Are you speaking of the spring perches? If thats the case just measure the width of your axle, find the center, decide on how far apart you want your springs (usually dictated by the front crossmember/spring hanger). Once you figure out where on the axle you want them, take some 2" or 2 1/2" square tube (i used 1/4" wall) and cut 5-6" and make some spring plates. Before you tack them on you have to make sure your caster angle is where you want it for your knuckles, also making sure that your pinion is pointing as straight as possible towards the tcase. In my case I had to turn the knuckles on my D-60 (which was a HUGE CUNT on a 60) to get a proper 7degree caster (meaning knuckles tilted back slightly) if you put your caster at 0 or worse -degrees to point your pinion at your tcase you will have an impossible time keeping your truck tracking straight down the road. Hope that helps you out......remember, measure twice

09-24-2012, 10:39 PM	#9 (permalink)
uamikey11 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2012 Member # 228247 Posts: 27	okay thanks alot i will keep all that in mind the truck should be all ready for welding by this weekend. just need some info on the drivelines I'm running yota axles and the nissan an yota flanges don't line up for the bolt pattern. what have you guys done for the drivelines for whatever type axles you used? anything would help just need some ideas

09-25-2012, 07:13 PM	#10 (permalink)
IslandPath Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Member # 138007 Location: Vancouver Island Posts: 81	Well my truck has 1ton diffs so its a bit different than what you have going on. I just used 1350 ujoints on the diffs and on the rear d300 flange, on the d300 front output I bought a toyota yolk because they are super strong and have a big range of motion. Not sure if you can just buy new yolks for your case that have a toyota ujoint size. I know a lot of toyota guys just turn the flanges and re-drill the new pattern beside the old pattern. NOt sure if you have enough "meat" so your holes arnt too close together tho.

09-26-2012, 02:38 PM	#11 (permalink)
uamikey11 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2012 Member # 228247 Posts: 27	Hmm alright thanks i will keep that in mind. I think i read up of a guy who did it and he just took the rear driveline flang since it is bigger and just re drilled the wholes but i will have to look at everything. I have a new question about castor pinion angle i have 6 inch spring going on my truck so it should be around a 6 inch lift what size shims do you think i need and what should i keep in mind while lining everything up and trying to get the right driveline angle?