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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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SAS 2 of 2
Decided to start a seperate post for my truck to avoid confusion. We started workign on the rear since we are still waiting on brake backing plates for my axle.
Installing my rear coils, flexes damn good for a factory 4link. I'm just going to drop the panhard down for now, eventually I'll extend all the links abit, but the factory links are alright for now. The coils are 4in XJ coils with the pigtail chopped off. Pulled my 3rd and installed a lockright. This 3rd is beefy, its about 90lbs, which is about twice the weight of a toyota third. Me working on the Calmini slip yoke elminiator. I hacked off all I could, but the shaft still has the dimple in it from the machining. The purpose of hacking it is to remove the hardened metal, but the dimple goes in past the back of my Tcase and it is still hardened. I called Calmini and they told me that I might need to take my Tcase apart, cut the output shaft farther down and reassemble it, I really dont want to have to do that. I'm going to try and find some carbide tipped metal drill bits tomorrow, and if I cant, I'm going to give up on the SYE for now unless anyone has any better ideas (PLEASE HAVE BETTER IDEAS). Pics of the dimple. Pics of the piece that came off. Pics of the SYE
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95 Nissan Pathfinder, D44 front/H233 rear, dual ARBs, 4.56s, 36 Iroks |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Member # 12100
Location: Priskitt AZ
Posts: 1,168
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I used all kinds of different bits, and this is what worked. Get a drill bit with a carbide tip that is made for drilling concrete. The bit has a tip like a little wedge welded to the end of a regular bit, it started cutting right away compared to anything else, and went all the way in no problemo. I also had to cut off that much and drill the last tiny amount of the dimple. You might wanna get a new seal and use much silicone sealent in the sye to make sure you get no leaks between the splines and stuff.
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Quote: Originally Posted by randii if you're a Pickle, rolling down the trail in a Smurf, dispensing bowls of dicks. FWIW, I don't want to see pictures of that, either! Randii |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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see....i knew there was a discussion about the bit someone else used somewhere.
what coils you using in the rear? You gonna regear the rear axle? That's an expensive set of gears to get. You probably told me but i forget things quick. oh and your backing/mounting plates are in the mail
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SAS 92 Pathfinder [url]http://www.grovestreet.com/jsp/picview.jsp?album=53780[/url] |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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They are 4in XJ coils from Performance Offroad. I already have my set of 5.13s for the rear, cost me $650 from AC
. I'm going to drive to colorado on the 4.37s then have the 5.13s put in out there, to save on gas.Thanks for the plates, do you want me to just paypal you for them or should I write you a check? I got the pilot hole in the slip yoke drilled up to 1/4in, I started with the 27/64ths bit and got maybe an 1/8th in before it got dull, I'll have to go to grainger supply tomorrow morning and get another.
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95 Nissan Pathfinder, D44 front/H233 rear, dual ARBs, 4.56s, 36 Iroks |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Member # 12100
Location: Priskitt AZ
Posts: 1,168
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Quote:
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Quote: Originally Posted by randii if you're a Pickle, rolling down the trail in a Smurf, dispensing bowls of dicks. FWIW, I don't want to see pictures of that, either! Randii Last edited by TRed; 07-29-2004 at 07:11 PM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Pic of my crap.
The last staw. Cutting things. I managed to catch the rubber that fills the gap in the fender on fire, had flames coming out the hood before I put them out, scared both of us. The front end came off pretty eaisly, only took us about 30 minutes to rough torch everything off. The only hang up was me forgetting to pull the driveshaft and the centerlink getting caught in the pitman as it fell. Down
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95 Nissan Pathfinder, D44 front/H233 rear, dual ARBs, 4.56s, 36 Iroks |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Made my panhard drop down bracket today, its adjustable for 4-7in of drop. We got the plasma working nice today (it wasnt cutting straight before) and used it to notch out the front.
![]() ![]() ![]() My welds weren't the best today, was using some old non preheated 7018 rod so it was sputtering alot on me. ![]() ![]() Threw the rear tires on, I need to trim the front of the wheel well a bit. I may also extend my links a bit when I get back to school(and have some money for some johnny joints) to move the axle back 2in or so. Looks damn good though, I got about 5.5in of lift. ![]() Panhard angle looks good, I may move it up one as the springs settle down. ![]()
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#9 (permalink) |
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Pic of my rear spring hanger, we used the rod to line everything up while we tacked it inplace. The vertical pieces are welded to the inside of the frame.
![]() Who said stick welds look like crap?! ![]() Got it on 4 wheels for the first time in two weeks. Still need to mount shocks, get steering made, relocate the exhaust cross tube, build a new transmission crossmember, regear the rear axle and do some finish welding. The front sits about 4in nose high, we are going to pull the smallest leaf from the pack and work from there. Sorry everything is so dark, I'll take some more pics today. ![]() ![]()
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#11 (permalink) |
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Still working on it, I bougth the wrong flat top steering arm, so I had to exhcange it. I pulled the rear 3rd to get the 5.14s put in, so I'm just waiting for the those two things to come back. Other than that, I need to bleed the brakes and hookup the shocks.
I built a tcase skid last week. Under the truck
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