Datsun divorced t-case strength

[ascaps]

How strong were the divorced transfer cases in Datsuns? Do they offer any high-range gearing reduction, or is it 1:1?

[hlb3]

It is 1:1, they are gear driven. I have one behind a small block Chevy with no problems at all.

[JoeyS]

It is 1:1 high, and 2.07:1 low.
Tough little t-case.

[XterraGuy]

The T100 t-case found in the 720 in the USA was also used behind the L28 I-6 in the Patrol back in the 80s, which is the same engine that was used in the 280Z and 280ZX.

[fsjeep1]

i was actually wondering myself how strong these cases are as well, i started a thread on a nissan board and didnt get any responses, I am planning on dual divorced nissan cases on an 84 nissan 720 that I just SAS'd for my dad, wasnt sure how strong or weak they would be once doubled up.......sounds like they are decent enough to use.........anyone here have a dual setup? Just curious to see pics or writeups etc......

cheers Dwain

[makya]

I have a jeep model 20 divorced unit on my 75 620, which is what your first two responses are referring to. It's a great unit and tough for light truck applications regearing that to 4.0 to 1 will cost you about $800. as for the 80 and later nissan manufactured units, they are fairly light duty. If you are just running 33s and a mild lift, weekend warrior kind of thing it should be fine, but I wouldn't go big (tires,motor).

[grimgaunt]

Cool !!! I have been googling for months now trying to find if the guts in one of these was the same as a jeep case and whether a 3:1 kit from Teraflex would work in these.

Anyone confirm this ?

[hlb3]

Originally Posted by makya

I have a jeep model 20 divorced unit on my 75 620, which is what your first two responses are referring to. It's a great unit and tough for light truck applications regearing that to 4.0 to 1 will cost you about $800. as for the 80 and later nissan manufactured units, they are fairly light duty. If you are just running 33s and a mild lift, weekend warrior kind of thing it should be fine, but I wouldn't go big (tires,motor).

Thats not what I was refering too, the Nissan built T100 is what I am talking about. I wouldn't call them light duty either, I'm running a 305/TH350 with D44/14-bolt, welded front and rear, on 38.5" Boggers with absolutly ZERO problems

[makya]

sorry about the misinformation, I'm not as familiar with the factory 4x unit, and only went off of what I have seen.

grimgaunt, check with these guys, they are all datsun collectors and several have the converted 4x4. Also just call Teraflex.

http://www.nwde.org/extras/forum/main.htm

[elminero67]

Hey all- I've run two Nissan transfer cases for a couple of years and have not had any trouble other than a transfer case mount breaking a weld, two of them together exerts alot of force so take your time and mount them well, also, there are two variations that I am aware of, ther earliest ones had a small flange and bolt pattern on the power input shaft and the front driveshaft output. As for strength, they are more than strong enough for my nissan z24 with 31" tires and locked rear, but another guy in town who runs a stroked chevy, sm420, welded rear end and 38" Super Swampers has broke two of them in the last 5-6 years, but he is a complete animal who rolls or destroys his truck at least once a year. good luck , elminero

[masonmachines]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=divorced+dana

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hreadid=183548

[fsjeep1]

I am going to run two of the T100 cases together with some 35's, see how it goes. Cases are already bolted together, just have to fab up mounts etc. Thanks for the input guys........

elminero67..........do you have pics of your setup? I wouldnt mind seeing them if possible........what truck are they installed in?

cheers Dwain

[hlb3]

I think we need to get everybody on the same page because its starting to get confusing, half the people are talking about the Nissan built case and the other half is talking about the D20 used in 4x4 convesions.

I was assuming that the original question was refering to the T100, which is the first t-case Datsun/Nissan put in the trucks from the factory, not what was used in aftermarket coversions, he hasn't posted again so I am not sure.

The first few replies (including mine) are refering to the Nissan built T100 which came in the Datsun/Nissan 720's. This case was mounted vertically, centered under the truck, the input on the top, with both the front and rear outputs on the bottom.


Then there are other people talking about divorced Dana 20's that were used in aftermarket 4x4 conversions of 620's. It was just a divocere mounted Dana 20, the input and rear output were straigth through with an offset front output.

[hlb3]

Originally Posted by fsjeep1

I am planning on dual divorced nissan cases on an 84 nissan 720 that I just SAS'd for my dad, wasnt sure how strong or weak they would be once doubled up.......sounds like they are decent enough to use.........anyone here have a dual setup? Just curious to see pics or writeups etc......

I know of one person for sure that has a T100 as a 2nd case in his Hardbody, he has a Z24i, dual cases, D44/9", I think 5.13's, and 40" Swampers, he has had this setup for a few years with no problems that I am aware of.

Originally Posted by fsjeep1

I am going to run two of the T100 cases together with some 35's, see how it goes. Cases are already bolted together, just have to fab up mounts etc. Thanks for the input guys........

How are you going to mount them? I was thinking about running another case behind mine (not sure exactly what, was thinking maybe a 205) but since the rear output is so low I figured the 2nd case would hang down way too far below the frame. I'd love to see some pics.

[elminero67]

Fs jeep1-I went out take pics of the dual setup but right now the truck is being used as a storage shed(long story) Right now it is on ebay as I'm trying to make room for a new toy, but here is the link and there is aphoto you can kind of see it-sorry, it;s the best i can do.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6783

[fsjeep1]

Originally Posted by hlb3

I know of one person for sure that has a T100 as a 2nd case in his Hardbody, he has a Z24i, dual cases, D44/9", I think 5.13's, and 40" Swampers, he has had this setup for a few years with no problems that I am aware of.



How are you going to mount them? I was thinking about running another case behind mine (not sure exactly what, was thinking maybe a 205) but since the rear output is so low I figured the 2nd case would hang down way too far below the frame. I'd love to see some pics.

Well I will try typing this out again, had a long reply typed up and windows came up with an error and shut down on me

The truck we're doing this on is an 84 720, it has a toy axle up front(pass drop) and the nissan rear with 4.38's, I had both cases (t100) bolted together and setup in place but the crossmember directly behind the factory case(in front of the fuel tank mount) was in the way, it did however look like once that crossmember is removed you could clock the front case over to the drivers side some, then clock the rear case to the passenger side and I bet you could almost fit it up there horizontally.....flush or nearly flush with the frame. Yesterday we cut the crossmember out and now were just waiting on an adaptor that is being turned down for us, that will mount both flange yokes together solid and perfectly aligned. I will take lots of pics as I go and share with the rest of you. Here is a pic of the cases bolted together, the total length from the front flange on the front case to the rear flange on the rear case is 26". If I missed anything or you have any input, do share........oh and I will be pressure washing these cases, they are too dirty for my liking

cheers Dwain

[hlb3]

Nice, so will the front output be lined up with the front axle and the rear will be offset to the side, if so are you going to try to run a CV on the rear shaft to help with any vibration that might occur? I kind of wondered about clocking the case onto its side like that, but wasn't sure how well it would work. I can't wait to see more pics as you go.

[fsjeep1]

Originally Posted by hlb3

Nice, so will the front output be lined up with the front axle and the rear will be offset to the side, if so are you going to try to run a CV on the rear shaft to help with any vibration that might occur? I kind of wondered about clocking the case onto its side like that, but wasn't sure how well it would work. I can't wait to see more pics as you go.

well I cleaned the cases up and I just got the new adapter to mate the two cases together machined up also, so I will bolt the two cases together tomorrow and get started on the install right away, building the new crossmember and mounts. I also cleaned the frame up where the factory crossmember was that we cut out so all looks good so far. As for where the outputs will be lined up, not too sure just yet. I will lift them into place and go from there I guess, I am excited!

As for the CV...I have one if needed, the nissan rear is slightly offset to the passenger side in the 3rd member itself, and with the original case location, it made it so that the d-shaft was angled towards the drivers side at the t-case end, more than being centered....so if it turns out to be the same amount of distance towards the passenger side I wont bother with it......trial and error I guess....see what happens. If its more of an angle I will use the CV like you mentioned! The only thing I see possibly being a problem so far is the driveshaft being close to the fuel tank....wont know for sure till we get it in there though. I will have to figure out what to do with oiling with the case on its side, but I will for sure take lots of pics and if you have any requests for measurements feel free to ask.....stay tuned dood

[hlb3]

Sweet, it sounds like you have everything figured out. The oiling was one thing I was worried about, hopefully it won't be an issue. I was looking around under my truck today and I think it is deffinetly possible to keep the second case even with the frame if you clock them, luckily I don't have a gas tank to get in the way though (fuel cell in the bed).

If everything works out for you it will be a nice cheap option for going with dual cases. Do you happen to have any pics of the adapter your using to mate them together?

[fsjeep1]

Originally Posted by hlb3

Sweet, it sounds like you have everything figured out. The oiling was one thing I was worried about, hopefully it won't be an issue. I was looking around under my truck today and I think it is deffinetly possible to keep the second case even with the frame if you clock them, luckily I don't have a gas tank to get in the way though (fuel cell in the bed).

If everything works out for you it will be a nice cheap option for going with dual cases. Do you happen to have any pics of the adapter your using to mate them together?

Yes it will be a cheap option for sure.............I just took some pics of the adapter before I installed it.......here are a couple.........both sides are identical......this adapter originally started out as a d-shaft adapter and now altered to be used for mating two cases together so that will explain why there are more holes than needed, because of course you only need 4 holes drilled
cheers

[fsjeep1]

well it was a pretty productive day, got the cases up in place, built a new x-member and fabbed up some mounts, got it all figured out how dad and I wanted it and everything was tacked together, driveshaft angles look decent. I thought I would be able to get it up higher than I did (althought it could go up higher if I was to cut a small section out of the bottom of the trans tunnel and move it over about an inch and reweld it to be able to clock the front case over a bit more) but compared to the lowest part of the case when it was in the stock location, we only lost 1/2" of clearance in total......not near as bad as I have heard from others.....so all in all I am happy with the outcome. The truck sits high enough anyways so clearance isnt really an issue for us. The front case is clocked towards the drivers side, the rear case is clocked towards the passenger side. I did take some pics but way too tired so I will post them tomorrow, I will have more then anyways. Just have to finish welding everything up, do up some d-shaft and fab up some shifter linkages.....and we'll be able to wheel it......cheers

[hlb3]

Sweet! You got that done quick! I can't wait to see pics of everything all put together. I was going to buy a t-case from an '81 720 at the wrecking yard today, but I found something interesting, on my t-case, the input and the rear output were larger than the front output (I got rid of the small flange and replaced it with a larger rear one), but on this case I found today, all 3 flanges were the small ones, so I didn't get it because I didn't feel like finding more of the larger flanges.

I had one question for you, does the adapter have to be that thick? If it was like half as thin, would there be any clearance problems between the 2 cases?

[fsjeep1]

Originally Posted by hlb3

Sweet! You got that done quick! I can't wait to see pics of everything all put together. I was going to buy a t-case from an '81 720 at the wrecking yard today, but I found something interesting, on my t-case, the input and the rear output were larger than the front output (I got rid of the small flange and replaced it with a larger rear one), but on this case I found today, all 3 flanges were the small ones, so I didn't get it because I didn't feel like finding more of the larger flanges.

I had one question for you, does the adapter have to be that thick? If it was like half as thin, would there be any clearance problems between the 2 cases?

I have heard that this is the case with the earlier ones, the flanges being smaller. Now I am actually using the smaller flange for now on the front output, but I do have a larger one that I just picked up that I drilled out to match a toyota IFS CV double cardan end.......so I will probably use that one in the end. What is a t-case worth where your located? Just curious....I picked one up for $75 CAD taxes in, with a spare jack shaft.....it was a great deal compared to the other prices I was getting.

The adapter is only about 1/2" thick, so not too thick but you could go thinner if you wanted to and not interfere with the two cases at all from what I could see, I will try and dig up a pic of the area where the two cases come closest......if not I will take one for you.

One other thing I was going to mention is that I have heard of subaru t-case flanges being the same as nissan, I havent confirmed this but one of the guys on the local board here mentioned something about it, also possibly lada flanges as well.......just some more possible options if you cant find any flanges or other nissan cases with the larger flanges

Ohyea, a real good peice of information that I will pass onto you that I figured out after scratching my head for a bit wondering how the hell I was going to lift the cases into the truck and holding them into position while mocking up a crossmember and brackets without them flopping all over the place being divorced and all, is to get yourself some ratchet straps! I placed a wooden peice of 2X4 across the seats, and strapped through the t-case shifter hole between the seats, and strapped around the adapter area between the cases, and hoisted them up that way, then once it was all up in the right area, I strapped another one from one frame rail to the other one and around each case to hold them in the clocked position without them moving around.....worked awesome. Those things get heavy on the arms after a very short time

[bignissan]

i have the 720 case behind my stock hb case. I'm running a 9"/44 5.38 gears, 40" swampers. No problems yet....and don't forsee any either. I have had the 720 case apart and it's definitely stout!!

[hlb3]

Originally Posted by fsjeep1

I have heard that this is the case with the earlier ones, the flanges being smaller. Now I am actually using the smaller flange for now on the front output, but I do have a larger one that I just picked up that I drilled out to match a toyota IFS CV double cardan end.......so I will probably use that one in the end. What is a t-case worth where your located? Just curious....I picked one up for $75 CAD taxes in, with a spare jack shaft.....it was a great deal compared to the other prices I was getting.

The adapter is only about 1/2" thick, so not too thick but you could go thinner if you wanted to and not interfere with the two cases at all from what I could see, I will try and dig up a pic of the area where the two cases come closest......if not I will take one for you.

One other thing I was going to mention is that I have heard of subaru t-case flanges being the same as nissan, I havent confirmed this but one of the guys on the local board here mentioned something about it, also possibly lada flanges as well.......just some more possible options if you cant find any flanges or other nissan cases with the larger flanges

Ohyea, a real good peice of information that I will pass onto you that I figured out after scratching my head for a bit wondering how the hell I was going to lift the cases into the truck and holding them into position while mocking up a crossmember and brackets without them flopping all over the place being divorced and all, is to get yourself some ratchet straps! I placed a wooden peice of 2X4 across the seats, and strapped through the t-case shifter hole between the seats, and strapped around the adapter area between the cases, and hoisted them up that way, then once it was all up in the right area, I strapped another one from one frame rail to the other one and around each case to hold them in the clocked position without them moving around.....worked awesome. Those things get heavy on the arms after a very short time

You make anymore progress? The case was like $85 I think. So how much did you spend on that adapter?

So how are you going about mounting the cases? I was thinking the other day about how I would mount them. After figuring out how I wanted them positioned, I would make some sort of frame to solidly bolt both cases too, not use any bushings, to keep both cases solid together so I wouldn't have to worry about putting any strain on where the flages bolt together if the 2 cases were moving seperatly, then mount the whole assembly to the frame using bushings. I'm not sure if that makes any sense the way I described it or not.