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Old 05-21-2006, 03:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Nissan Navara Transfercase questions

g day guys,

Im from AUS, and am wanting to use a Nissan Navara Transfercase behind my 350 chev and Turbo700 auto in my Nissan patrol as i will be running UniMog axles and the nissan navara transfer case is a left hand side drop out for the front shaft so it lines up with the uni mogs...

Now i have purchased this transfer case.... it has a centre rear out put and a left hand side front out put with a drive shaft bolt up flange.

the centre rear output has a coned rear housing section with an oil seal at the end and a small spline sticking out about half an inch.... i cant see a way of bolting up a driveshaft flange to this nor can i see a handbrake drum or any such thing attaching to this.... i bought this transfer case without the rear shaft attachment....

what i would like to know is if anyone has any pics of can tell me how the rear shaft is sposed to attach to the back of this transfer case.

the trasnfercase looks like its a GQ patrol transfer case but mirrored... so front output on left hand side not right hand side...

i believe its out of the 2.5 4 cyl diesels and/ or the 2.6 litre 4 cyl petrol models but i couldnt be mistaken.

any help would be great...

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Old 05-21-2006, 08:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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it's for a slip yoke. I don't know that anybody makes a Slip yoke eliminator kit for your application. do you know if that TC is used in any other Nissans?
Originally Posted by TatonkaII
- really? I might take one in the ass for that.
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Old 05-21-2006, 10:30 AM   #3 (permalink)
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CALMINI makes a SYE for the TX10.

You have a TX10 case. The opposite case is the TX12. You can also get crawlers gears from CALMINI.
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Old 05-21-2006, 04:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yup Calmini has what you need. The sye they sell is capable of useing the 1310 size stuff or the 1350 1 ton stuff, that's what I use. Although the sye comes drilled and tapped when it should only be drilled with no threads, so I had to drill the threads out. Also, from my experience you shouldn't hack the output shaft off, just drill it and tap it. Use slow speed drilling and use concrete bits with the carbide tips, they slice into the shaft like butter when you go from small and step up bit size until you reach the hole size you need for the bolt. And the 4 to 1 gear set they sell is the single best aftermarket component made for our rigs.
Originally Posted by randii
if you're a Pickle, rolling down the trail in a Smurf, dispensing bowls of dicks. FWIW, I don't want to see pictures of that, either!

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