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Old 09-27-2006, 05:04 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Calmini SAS Parts

Has anyone had experience running the Calmini front crossmember for the Hardbodies or Pathy's? Or any part of the kit for that matter? I like how they came out with adustable leaf perches to help dial in the final axle location. I'd plan on buying the crossmember to help minimize some of the fabrication required.

Just curious seeing as I'm getting close to gather parts up for the swap. It's a big decision and it's hard to make up my mind but I've got alot of support and finally found a cheap and trustworthy welder. Also have a DD setup once my buddy get's his SAS done.

I'd expect to get around 7"+ from stock front waggy springs? That sounds about right? I also still need to make a decision about the rear....wether to run a D44 or 233 with Alcan springs. Hopefully Calmini will have more parts out by time I get started.
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I have only seen 1 truck use the kit and 2 pathys. Check out a more popular board like nissan4wheelers for lots of SAS Nissans.

I plan to install one of those CALMINI kits on a friends pathy in a month or so. I will post lots of pix.

Here is the CALMINI truck with the kit installed.



Here is My version. Different springs but hangers are very similar. About 8-10" over stock up front 4" in the rear.
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Old 09-27-2006, 08:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The Calmini stuff is pretty pricey, you could save loads of money doing the fab work yourself, but I guess you would save a little time by buying it already built for you.
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Old 09-27-2006, 01:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Well, I have no real welding experience myself and to pay someone to fab up a crossmember and such will easily outweigh the price of a $100 pre-biult and tested one. I've been waiting quite a while to see what and when Calmini would would release. Looks pretty nice so far. I talked to someone on the NOR board and he says it pretty self explanitory as far as positioning and really eliminates alot of the fab work. But for any welding that is required, I do have a cheap and trustworthy buddy that is willing to help.

This certaintly wont be a quick thing so saving time and money on these parts is a big factor. I will do as much research and get as many opinions as possable for a few weeks. Then I'll decide the best route. Any tips, opinions, or thoughts are GREATLY appreciated.

I think one os the buggest hurdles will be the steering. I highly doubt the stock pump will be sufficiant to handle HydroAssist so I'd like something strong. How is the waggy steering for those of you that have infact kept it?
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Old 09-27-2006, 01:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Tip: instead of farming out the work to Calmini and your welder buddy, buy a decent welder ($500+-), a saw and some steel and learn to fit and weld. It's an invaluable skill, plus you will know your truck better if you do it yourself.

I do understand that not everyone wants to learn a new trick, but like you said, you wanted to hear "opinions".
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Old 09-27-2006, 02:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i run hydro assist no problem with stock stuff.
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Old 09-27-2006, 04:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bignissan
i run hydro assist no problem with stock stuff.

Please explain,what did you do for the pitman arm?(any changes) I would like to do this to mine any advice would be great.

Sorry to post jack bro.PM me the info if you like bignissan.


Has Calmini done anything for the rear as far as new crossmembers or new shock placement?
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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So far Calmini has only relesed the beefed up Transmision CM. Athough they show it on their truck, they havn't released anything concerning shocks or anything for the rear for that matter.

The guy that would be doing my welding would be very cheap compared to average prices. It's a close friends father. I would never trust myself welding on my truck, I could learn wuick, I know that, but weather they are trustworthy going down a bumpy trail is another story. Learning to weld has been something I've been wanting to learn so who knows how long. I'm sure Mark can show me few pointers.

Anyways, I see highsteer knuckles and Chevy outters are the popular choice(I've been reading Packman's Budget Build all day, lol). Where can I find these? What vehicle am I looking for out there to snag these off of? I want to maintain the stock Waggy steering. Well, tie rod at least. I'll go ahead and modify the draglink to help save money.
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoohaa
Tip: instead of farming out the work to Calmini and your welder buddy, buy a decent welder ($500+-), a saw and some steel and learn to fit and weld. It's an invaluable skill, plus you will know your truck better if you do it yourself.

I do understand that not everyone wants to learn a new trick, but like you said, you wanted to hear "opinions".
I'm a certified welder, mechanical engineering student, and have access to pretty much any fab tool you could want. I've done two leaf spring swaps already and I'd probably buy the calmini kit next time to simplify things. I honestly dont think that buying a prebuilt crossmember will have any effect on how well you know your truck. I also dont think he's any less of a man or something for valuing his time over his money.

For steering I'm running a fj80 tie rod end ontop of the pitman (drops right in on 94-97 trucks), crossover to a parts mike steering arm on my passengerside flat top, with 7/8 TREs. I'll see if I can find pics.

Big nissan, I too would like more info on the hydro steer, I have a spare box I could drill and tap if its working out well for you. Any pics on where you tapped into the box?
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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By the way, has anyone ever tried using the stock F-250 upper shock mounts? I looked at NissanNut's and they are very similar in design. This looks like another money save versus making shock hoops or custom mounts.



Did you guy retain the stock Waggy lower shock mount?
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Old 09-27-2006, 08:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94Hardbody4x4
has anyone ever tried using the stock F-250 upper shock mounts?
I can't speak for the Nissan guys; but I know OEM Ford shock towers are a popular choice for the Toyota and Isuzu SAS crowd.
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Old 09-27-2006, 08:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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one question nobody addressed (or at least i didn't see it) If you are staying stock width, i would run the H233B instead of a D44. Its stronger.
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Old 09-27-2006, 08:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Yeah i run the ford towers, good deal, might have to cut up your inner fender a bit to get them to fit but they work fine.

Remember to drill out the hole on the top of them before welding them on. My ford towers had some stupid ass 7/16ths hole while most shock sleves are 1/2.
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Old 09-27-2006, 10:37 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I've got the ford towers on mine as well....only $12 each if I remember correctly.



I didn't do anything for the hydro assist other then get my box tapped by west texas offroad. No other mods needed.
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Old 09-28-2006, 01:26 AM   #15 (permalink)
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very glad to hear that, I've been talking to them, and was wondering if the pump needed upgrading. Now the guesswork is gone.
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Old 09-28-2006, 08:30 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bignissan
I've got the ford towers on mine as well....only $12 each if I remember correctly.



I didn't do anything for the hydro assist other then get my box tapped by west texas offroad. No other mods needed.
Can you get a picture of where the lines go into the box? I'd like to try and do it myself.
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Old 09-28-2006, 09:08 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Can you get a picture of where the lines go into the box? I'd like to try and do it myself.
Id like to see those pics too... Also what size cylinder are you using?
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Old 09-28-2006, 02:08 PM   #18 (permalink)
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For what they charge, I don't think you can go wrong having them do it. $500 for the tapping, box rebuild, lines, and cylinder.
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Old 09-28-2006, 08:22 PM   #19 (permalink)
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to be honest, you really can't get away with doing it much cheaper. My box was leaking a little from the pitman seal, so I had them rebuild it while they were at it...$150...not bad at all. I believe it's a 1.5" x 8" ram.
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Old 09-28-2006, 09:15 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMrManGuy
I'm a certified welder, mechanical engineering student, and have access to pretty much any fab tool you could want. I've done two leaf spring swaps already and I'd probably buy the calmini kit next time to simplify things. I honestly dont think that buying a prebuilt crossmember will have any effect on how well you know your truck. I also dont think he's any less of a man or something for valuing his time over his money.

For steering I'm running a fj80 tie rod end ontop of the pitman (drops right in on 94-97 trucks), crossover to a parts mike steering arm on my passengerside flat top, with 7/8 TREs. I'll see if I can find pics.

Big nissan, I too would like more info on the hydro steer, I have a spare box I could drill and tap if its working out well for you. Any pics on where you tapped into the box?
Who said anything about manliness?

Sure, for you, buying a prefabbed crossmember might not make a difference, since you already have so much experience and education and access to super dooper tools. For this guy though, it would. Fabbing your own crossmember will involve learning to weld, and therefore would "learn you" tons about your truck and how to fix it.
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Old 10-15-2006, 05:21 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Well, like I've said before, I'll make my real decision around December but right now it looks like It'll be a few months or more befor eI can get started on gathering parts. I'm in no hurry. Unfortunatly, I cannot wheel my truck right now because of how bad my steering is. The Idler arm is bent and worn out and the centerlink is shot completely. Bumpsteer cant get any wors and the slightest stress when offroad will bend a tie-rod.

I'm thinking of buying the L&P Stage 2 kit in the meantime. Seems like a waste if I will be getting rid of it eventually but I'm not sure how long it'll take before I can get started and this steering issue is putting a big limit on my 4-wheeling. Good thing I have an atv, eh?
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Old 10-18-2006, 11:44 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Now, I was reading through the Calmini SAS directions and noticed in one of their pictures that the D44 diff just about hits the bumpstop the same time as the pitman arm. At leats it is extremely close from what the pictures show. Is this ment to be? Have you SAS fellas' had this problem as well? It just seems like it is limiting the travel of the axle.
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Old 10-18-2006, 01:35 PM   #23 (permalink)
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The leafs want to hit pitman. But the diff never comes close.

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Old 10-24-2006, 01:50 PM   #24 (permalink)
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What did you guys do about a daily driver while you rig was down? Thats my next step is to find a ride while its out of commission. I'll be in college and need something to haul my ass around. My buddy said I'd be able to use his Ranger once his SAS Ford is done but that might be a very long time depending if he can find someone to do his welding.

Just curious what ya'll did.
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Old 10-24-2006, 02:56 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I just did my SAS in a week and never left the garage.
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