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Old 12-04-2010, 10:47 AM   #101 (permalink)
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any more progress? i'm guessing not, but doesn't hurt to ask, right? i'm curious as to how your front suspension is going to work. i'm gathering parts to do a 4.3/4l60 swap to mine. was going to link it but now i'm thinking it'll be easier/cheaper to leaf it. and i like how low yours sits. and good luck with the baby.
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Old 12-06-2010, 07:04 AM   #102 (permalink)
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nothing new on this truck, parked it in the backyard for winter. got my cummins converted to DIY 2tank veggie system. otherwise just trying to keep my daily vehicles running and the bills paid.
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Old 02-21-2011, 07:21 PM   #103 (permalink)
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nice build i love the fact that its a nissan , the t cases is very clever as well
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Old 02-21-2011, 10:14 PM   #104 (permalink)
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thanks. nothing really happening for a while, baby coming any day. got my hub issues worked out and my drive flanges coming home soon from the racer friend i loaned em to. bout it.

i did recently build a doubler for another friend that i like a lot more than the dana 300 setup i did on the nissan.

BW1354 to dana 20.







not an easy job, wouldnt do that one again.
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Old 01-26-2012, 04:21 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Sure wish my Frontier was built like this one. Maybe if I get on in the mines I will SAS and build the motor.
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:46 AM   #106 (permalink)
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Arm-chair fabricating but isn't your rear diff pinion angle wrong? You are not running a CV at the T-case rear output so you cannot point the pinion at the t-case, you need to match the angles of the yokes to cancel out vibrations.
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:09 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Arm-chair fabricating but isn't your rear diff pinion angle wrong? You are not running a CV at the T-case rear output so you cannot point the pinion at the t-case, you need to match the angles of the yokes to cancel out vibrations.
Once everything settled out, the rear end would have been perfect, BUT the rear is taken out and it was sold.
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:19 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Arm-chair fabricating but isn't your rear diff pinion angle wrong? You are not running a CV at the T-case rear output so you cannot point the pinion at the t-case, you need to match the angles of the yokes to cancel out vibrations.
actually the diff is pointed over the Tcase. its called brokeback, when both joints have the same angle but bend in the same direction rather than opposites like you're accustomed to seeing. the joints dont care about anything other than matching phase and angle. not whether the angles are positive or negative of each other.
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:40 PM   #109 (permalink)
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actually the diff is pointed over the Tcase. its called brokeback, when both joints have the same angle but bend in the same direction rather than opposites like you're accustomed to seeing. the joints dont care about anything other than matching phase and angle. not whether the angles are positive or negative of each other.
I get that (mechanical engineering background) but when your suspension cycles either up or down from rest position they will no longer be at the same angle, they will change in opposite directions. Hence why no one does this in this type of application.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:42 PM   #110 (permalink)
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ive seen it done and it works fine.
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Old 03-17-2012, 01:53 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Any updates on the Frontier?
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Old 03-17-2012, 03:29 PM   #112 (permalink)
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not really. i sold the 14 bolt rear to stay afloat through xmas. after driving my friends ranger on 40s with 4.0L and 5.38s (iirc) i realized id need more gear to turn a bigger tire with smaller engine and take the strain off that jackshaft. i wanna drive it on the street when we move to tennessee. that left me looking at dana 70s for the deeper gear options.

i acquired a dana 70 rear with 4.88s and figure ill weld that sometime and toss it in with my 4.56 front to see if the mismatch helps steer it with both ends welded. i also wound up with a 4.56 dana 70HD with the 4" tubes to make a steering 70.. i have all the steering parts from dodge 60s ive cut up.

once i see how the mismatch works, i'll decide between 5.88 front/6.17 rear, or just go right to 7.17s in both. this way i probably wont have to do a 4:1 in the Dana300. im really just keeping my options open and waiting to see what other parts fall in my lap from scrapping and trades. right now im just being a dad and paying down my debts, only even think about the truck occasionally.
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:45 AM   #113 (permalink)
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i just realized ive got a pair of 5.13 dana 80 gears on hand and a pair of dana 70 axles with unmatched gearing. maybe doing girdled Jana 87s with 5.13s is the way to go. the savings on gears would pay for the 4:1 tcase gears if thats not deep enough.


theres are some old pics of the truck with a 3 drawer aluminum box (shown only half way open) that will be the start of my bed floor. great for spare axles and driveshafts. will ditch the bed whenever i get back to working on it.









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Old 09-04-2012, 12:04 PM   #114 (permalink)
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super rad frontier build! Keep the updates coming
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:45 PM   #115 (permalink)
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thanks. dont hold your breath though, this is on the backburner for atleast another year while we pay down debts and raise a toddler.
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:30 PM   #116 (permalink)
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Its time for this to become someone elses project. It is presently located in crossville Tennessee. I havent touched it in a decade and im not going to.

Bed is gone
Rear is gone

The leaves and driveshafts are set up to go ontop of a gm cucv axle setup. If you did that the new 1350 driveshafts i built will be perfect. Ill take $600 for the cab/frame/driveline combo with no axles.

Or ill do the above plus swampers plus (disassembled) chevy d60 front for $1500. Firm firm firm

Id even trade the whole pile for a bobcat root rake grapple attachment, a small log loader grapple, or an old 4wd diff lock suzuki king quad or quad runner. Id consider other 4wd quads too but they must run and operate. Im partial to the suzuki.

I can fork load on your trailer
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