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Old 05-26-2009, 11:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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98 frontier build

since i got the 1ton my frontier has been sitting in the driveway doing nothing. decided to waste some money on it. today it sits as pictured (except on a bunch of flat tires.) welded rear, cranked tbars, flipped overload in the rear, longer shocks, winch, sched 40, cut bed, grooved 32" mud terrains.




got it stock from my best friend for $2 grand. a tree had fallen on it in his driveway and he got insurance $$. i put on some tires and drove it. evolved like so:



















Last edited by mike_belben; 05-26-2009 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 05-26-2009, 11:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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rides like a brick but surprisingly capable wheeler.. ive never backed off the throttle and its never broken anything.

then some asshole blew a stopsign and tboned me, ripped the rear out.






Last edited by mike_belben; 05-27-2009 at 04:14 AM.
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Old 05-27-2009, 01:54 AM   #3 (permalink)
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the wreck tore out the rear driveshaft which was a two piece, and it ruined the support bearing, broke the ubolts, tore the shocks, blah blah.

cobbled it back together with a bunch of toyota parts, honda fasteners and stuff. made a 1 piece sched 40 driveshaft, setting it up with bench rests on the lathe.. unbalanced, no vibes right up to 80mph.



cut my mud terrains, big improvement


added some toy leaves for hauling wood




welded some shit under the tank


made a half decent belly pan out of scrap AR plate from work


then got these bad boys.


i cut them out of the owners '77 chevy cab and chassis truck frame. 35/30 spline dana 60 DRW front and matching DRW 14bolt FF rear, both with open 4.56 gears. i paid $230 for the pair and the next day needed the tie rod off the front to pass inspection on my 1ton.. a $180 part.. so i feel like $50 for a set of tons is a pretty good reason to cut up a perfectly good truck.

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Old 05-27-2009, 04:43 AM   #4 (permalink)
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i welded the 14bolt and im working on machining the DRW hubs into SRW right now. the rear axle was 63" but i swapped hubs with a guy who had SRW hubs so ill be at 67" WMS.





waiting on the mailman for steering arms, heims, rear disc brackets, etc. im gonna run a toy RUF pack in front and a few F250 rear leaves out back. the front is going on slider boxes i made since the frame is so far offset from front to back. ill just build outriggers to support the slider boxes.



just picked up 15x10 eight lug rims, gonna beadlock them, grind the calipers and run my 39.5 x 15 TSLs for now. crawl ratio is around 90:1
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Old 05-27-2009, 12:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i'll never weld one this way again.. still warped and didnt want to go in the carrier.. had to torque the halves together with the impact.. should have just welded through the windows and saved myself the time.





thats a monster can of WD40 btw.. still have to shave it


little heat helped pound the studs out




did the same with some spare 8 lug dana 44 stuff to save money on rotors


plasma cutter was working like shit due to fowled tips but i managed to get much of the flange off.



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Old 05-27-2009, 12:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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got out of work this morning and went to the shop. spent most my time sandblasting or running the lathe.

got one rotor squared and faced


and one Dually hub turned down to single wheel





i sandblasted my knuckles and spindles.. then got the knuckles all ground up to start plating them. i think im gonna run a ram assist to the original low steer arm and dont wanna snap it off. so far so good.



pretty glad i didnt go with the FJ62 axle after all

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Old 05-27-2009, 04:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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nice man! looking good, keep us updated.
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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What's the plan with the passenger drop D60?
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I gotta check back in on this build for sure
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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What's the plan with the passenger drop D60?
gonna run a passenger side Dana 300, divorced, right behind the current drivetrain and just leave the front shaft disconnected on the TX10. the output shaft can act as a pto for a compressor if i wanted.
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Old 05-28-2009, 10:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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i sandblasted more shit and got the other hub turned down today.

clamped a knuckle to the table tonight and "assembled" one side to see about brake/wheel interference. im gonna run 15x10s with 4" backspacing and i would need to grind the snot out of the caliper, caliper bracket and the tab that locks the caliper to the bracket.. not to mention buy calipers and rotors since mine are fully shot. probably also need a half inch wheel spacer.

id recenter the rims but the centers cant get any shallower due to a diameter change without reversing, and i want to beadlock so reversing is out. i could maybe cut an inch of width out of them and reweld.. hmm.
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Old 05-28-2009, 10:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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who makes brackets for 3/4 ton chevy calipers onto dana 60s? thats looking like my cheapest/easiest option to run the 15s right now since i have all the brake parts on hand.

also, what diameter and wall thickness tie rods are guys running on their 1 ton setups?
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Old 05-29-2009, 09:54 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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gonna run a passenger side Dana 300, divorced, right behind the current drivetrain and just leave the front shaft disconnected on the TX10. the output shaft can act as a pto for a compressor if i wanted.
how about a PTO winch? no over heating! no dead batteries! As long as the engine runs the winch pulls, my buddy has one on his BJ-42 and that thing can winch like nothing else. Want more line speed? put some Wellie on it! Nice build! i have built a dozen driveshafts on the lathe like that before and the have never vibrated. put the dial indicator on it and make it as straight as you can. If the tube is round with .010’’ youll have no problem.

Last edited by BigBlueToy; 05-29-2009 at 09:57 AM.
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Old 05-29-2009, 03:03 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i hadnt thought of using the front output for a winch. ive already got a pair of xrc-8s anyways but that'd be pretty slick.

just ordered my front caliper brackets from bluetorch. had a bunch of goodies come in today. busy time.
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Old 05-31-2009, 09:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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ended up buying rotors today. no matter how straight i got the old ones chucked in the lathe, they wobbled on the hub


i got my SRW hubs in the mail from the guy i traded my DRW hubs with. used the dorman 610-194 stud that comes in the 14bolt dually rears. worked perfect for me with no modification.



caliper brackets were the $35 weld on's from ballistic
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...ts_p_1153.html



picked up my 15x10 eight lug wagon wheels for $100 from a buddy who never used them.



4" backspacing.. they rubbed.



i probably should have ground the tube radius deeper into the bracket to lower the caliper onto the rotor but just ground the caliper instead.





got them clearing by about an 1/8" now.


im using monte carlo front flex hoses and banjo bolts.. cheapest i could find.
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:52 PM   #16 (permalink)
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didnt have much time today but i got the 10* bevel put into the double steering arm.

milled the flats on both sides




then bored and reamed the perpendicular 1/2" pilot holes to .750 ID @ 10 degrees for the heims.



came out alright. will be making tabs to capture the heims in double shear to compensate for the lost material.

Last edited by mike_belben; 06-01-2009 at 11:55 PM.
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:57 PM   #17 (permalink)
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i cant do the knuckle gussetting until the caliper brackets get here, but ive been looking at doing a dowel or 5th/6th stud for the steer arms. something like this maybe.



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Old 06-04-2009, 05:41 PM   #18 (permalink)
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nice build looking forward to see this thing done
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Old 06-05-2009, 01:41 PM   #19 (permalink)
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steering arms are getting there. blanks were from harsh terrain on ebay.







they are the cheapo 3/4" heims for now to get me setup, arms are 3/4 thick, the captive straps are 3/8" cold roll and its all tigged. still have to tap the kingpin bushing adjustment, add zerks, shorten up the extra threads and either key or dowel them to the knuckles. im using ARP studs and plating the knuckles for a big ram and 42-44s someday.
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Old 06-09-2009, 08:48 PM   #20 (permalink)
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i finally finished my steering arms.



i added that center puck and preload adjuster to eliminate the kingpin spring, countersunk the main boltholes for the tapered ARP nuts im using. tapped in the grease zerk, welded a 3/4" wing on and added two more studs and a .470" hardened steel key.



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Old 06-10-2009, 07:44 PM   #21 (permalink)
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drilled out the wheel stud holes on my dually hubs today. using dorman 310-194 studs from the 14 bolt dually rear all the way around the truck. they have a .620 knurl diameter and i went with a 39/64ths drill bit IIRC which is around .610 for a .010 interference fit. pounded in nicely.



working on caliper brackets and the tcase mount for the divorced Dana300 now.

Last edited by mike_belben; 06-10-2009 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 06-11-2009, 09:51 AM   #22 (permalink)
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39/64ths ended up being too big when i actually tried putting the rotor on. the spline seems to fatten up just under the head which is what i was gauging by. with the rotor the stud doesnt seat deep enough. should have gone one size smaller.
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Old 06-18-2009, 11:43 PM   #23 (permalink)
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i finally got the faceplate made up for my divorced dana 300.



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Old 06-23-2009, 08:09 PM   #24 (permalink)
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making some nice headway. You planning those BBC's? are you going to keep the heim ends or go back to rubber?
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Old 06-23-2009, 10:46 PM   #25 (permalink)
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thanks mike. the BBCs i made into coilovers are staying on the CSC. i have a pair of 12" bilsteins and another pair of 15" coil valved BBCs for this. sticking with leaf springs. toy RUFs and F250 rears
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