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Project Pathy.

19K views 73 replies 14 participants last post by  onlyonedr 
#1 · (Edited)
I've been working on this thing for a while, and got enough pictures to be somewhat of a build thread. It's not hardcore, but who are we kidding, the tech lacks in this section anyways.

Bought the pathfinder for $900, ran an drove, had some 265/75r16 txr's on it. I wheeled it for a year like that, mainly just learing how to drive.

Well, all my buddys started liftin their rigs, so I figured I would follow suit. I got a 4 inch trailmaster lift and bought some brand new 33x12.5r15 toyo mts on aluminium wheels.

I started wheeling it a little harder, I ended up bending some tie rods, and then on a night snow run, finally breaking one. I then got the hoohaa steering upgrade. This led me to find the next weak point in nissan suspension, hubs.

I broke off many hub bolts, and finally, grenaded a warn hub on a simple hill climb. I bought stock replacement hubs, and also cracked one of them.

I then began looking at SAS'n it. I found this waggy for $150 locally, and went an picked it up. I sold the leaf springs to my buddy for $75

I got flat top knuckles from a friend of mine for free, and the guy that regeared my axles, also flat top'd the passenger side one, and made me a highsteer arm. I am running 7/8's x3/4's hiems in single shear on both ends of my tie rod, with high misalighnment spacers and 5/8th bolts.

I chose to go SOA using a calmini hanger kit. I used the waggy main leaf, then 2 half ton chevy springs For the rear, I used 3 inch lift coils, then a 1 inch coil spacer. As far as gearing went, I used a 4.63 rear third member and run 4.56's in the front. I have no issues running these different gear ratio's.
 
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#2 ·
First off, I'd like to tell you guys that I am a poor and cheap bastard, thus this thread will contain some cheaper parts and some cheaper ways of doing things rather than just buying parts. But, I am gonna try to do everything so that it will last, and that I won't have to tear into it again, no ghetto fab!

There are quite a few reasons for me doing this rebuild. The main one is installing my front locker. I am also installing toyota rear main springs to move my axle forward, and stop it from hitting the oil pan. It is also going to equal out the pitman arm/high steer arm center to center difference. Also, I'll get a slightly longer wheelbase, and slightly better approach angle. And I am going to redo some of the ghetto fab that was on here from the first part of the build, and hopefully get some better articulation. Also, it will allow me to stay low and fit 35's with the same amount of lift that I have now hopefully.

And here is one of the main reasons behind me starting the project:



My frame and my shackle are getting all lovie-dovie:mad:

Here is a few more random pic's I took today.

An overall shot:





My shock setup that limited my droop.



Cracked shock mount



Front axle out:



Beat up/blown shocks, bent and flat springs, and my beefy drag-link.



I'll be getting more done during the next few days, my goal is to have it done by New Years Eve so I can give her a good testing.
 
#3 ·
Alright, well I got it driving for the current time, it still needs front shocks, bumpstops, limit strap, and the front driveline extended. Sitting 1.5" taller in the front, lockright locker in the front, with the axle moved about 4" forward and at 106.5" wheelbase. Should be able to fit a set of 36's I have coming to me soon... Gonna put ZJ front springs in the rear (as my current springs are sagg'd out/spitting spacers out). Shackle angle is much better, was able to de-ghettofy it a bit there.



Wheelbase



Rear fender-to-tire height



Front fender-to-tire height

 
#4 ·
I like the height the rear is at right now, but it would take a bit of work to get the front down lower, so for now, the rear is gonna get lifted a bit. I think right now, I have about the perfect combination of wheelbase, width, and height for the trails I wheel. For me, wheel travel isn't as big as stability.

The next phase of the plan is to buy a bender and notcher with my first pay check this summer, and exo it.

Here is a few pictures with the 35's, they are just a mismatched set, Wildcat EXT's in the front and Mudkings in the rear. :lol:



 
#18 · (Edited)
Some tech:

Trying to figure out the rear driveline situation. Here are the measurements of the yoke/u-joint on the diff side.


The u-joint measurements do not match up to any stock standard spicer u-joint, so I started looking at other options.

I found this 1350 series u-joint flange that has a matching 3.75" bolt hole diameter.
Parts

There is also a 1330 flange with the same bolt hole diameter.
Parts

And a 1310 flange.
Parts

Curiously that 1310 flange says Nissan, so I am not sure if its for newer Nissans with the metric D44 variant or what.
 
#19 ·
1310 stuff is pretty weak, I would recommend calling Kyle from NWF back and getting him to send you a 1350 yolk (i think they're $40) you'll be happy you upgraded, because usually when a u-joint breaks it destroys more than just itself!

On the front output I ended up putting a toyota flange, since they are super strong but have a much better range of motion than the 1350.....i also bought that from Kyle
 
#20 ·
Looks to be $100 anywhere online.

I know I should do 1350's, but just that yoke is my estimated budget for drivelines. I planned on just getting some junkyard drivelines, and extending/shortening them myself.

I still (mostly) have stock shafts in the front. (other then the driverside inner), so I know I have to be careful anyways.

Building a decent wheeler on a college budget is tough.:laughing:
 
#24 ·
So your running no vent on the box, just a vent on the D300? I like the sight tube idea, but I also fear it getting ripped off by a random stick/log.

Off topic, but someday I need to come up an wheel with ya guys on the Island, terrain looks rad. Im just an hour south of the border.
 
#26 ·
I have a vent on both and a site tube on both, I will find a picture to show you guys.

Here it is complete, vent tubes and site tubes not yet done at this time, but you can easily see where the vents and site tube go on the crawlbox



here you can see the site tube and vent i put on the 300..........its flipped since Im running a drivers drop axel





Im also not worried about sticks because I have a full flatbelly and a skidplate under the whole tranny/tcases.

 
#30 ·
I had a build thread over on 4x4parts.com but I think I stopped posting about half way thru my build.

Maybe I will start one over here if people are interested to see it, unfortunatly for me (and all of us) there isnt that many people building Nissans so I did a lot of trial and error as I built, but I guess if I posted up pics that would probably help some of you guys out.

I'll start one real soon, ive got over a 1400 pics of my build, so i'll have to condense what I have into something that will make sense, but im always glad to answer Nissan related questions, hopefully save some of the error from the trial and error process for you guys.
 
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