I think i "need" to build a 10/22

[runnerboyy]

First off, a little background:

I has a moderately "built" 10/22 a couple years ago. i bought a new stainless rifle from walmart and didnt even shoot it in stock configuration.

I added a hogue overmolded stock, elcheapo carbon ported bull barrel, bipod, synthetic bolt buffer, extended mag release, bolt hold open, a shitty bsa "sweet 22" probably a couple things im forgetting. All in all it was a neat, light rife that would kill the shit out of a squirrel. That being said, it was far from a "target" rifle.

This is v 2.0, im hoping to do it right this time. This time around i couldnt care less about weight. it will be shot from a bench 80% of the time and prone in the field the other 20%.

I need help from people experienced in 10/22 building. the main thing i need is help drawing lines between whats needed and whats just plain pimp. i want "very good" accuracy out of this rifle out to 100 yards using quality ammo. I am no world class shooter, when i reach a grouping limit i want it to be my fault, not the rifle.

What i *think* i know

*this is going to get expensive
*I want a Kidd stainless, thread, fluted barrel
*i want a bright ass, exotic thumb hole stock (boyds look good for the money)
*I want very high power optics.


What i dont know:
*is a aftermarket receiver really going to do much or anything for ME? Worth the expense?
*Will the complete factory bolt be "good enough"
*What do i do about a trigger? complete drop in unit? Install a kit from Kidd or another manufacturer? Send the entire trigger group off to a well known smith for a re work? i know triggers are a personal question, but how light should i go if it will be a mostly bench rifle? single or 2 stage?
*As i mentioned, this will be a mainly bench rifle. Kidd offers 16, 18, and 20" barrels at no extra cost. any reason why i shouldnt go for the 20" barrel? or does it add minimal extra velocity?
*What MOA scope base will i need?
*I have read you cant free float bull barrels off the ruger receiver because there is too much stress on the receiver. the first 3" or so of the barrel should be supported? Is this true?


What kind of accuracy should be expected with an all factory ruger, worked trigger, target stock, Kidd barrel, quality ammo, and a good shooter? Im wondering if i should just stop there.

Thanks for any and all help!

[runnerboyy]

Also need options on fair quality high power optics. Would it be insane to try to stick just over a 100 dollar budget for a scope? With minimal recoil is a very expensive scope needed?

[takotruckin]

Originally Posted by runnerboyy

Also need options on fair quality high power optics. Would it be insane to try to stick just over a 100 dollar budget for a scope? With minimal recoil is a very expensive scope needed?

I would try a UTG/Leapers 6-24X50. Its holding up fine on my Mosin, so it should be great for a 22.

http://www.amazon.com/Leapers-6-24x5...215275&sr=8-19

[runnerboyy]

Originally Posted by takotruckin

I would try a UTG/Leapers 6-24X50. Its holding up fine on my Mosin, so it should be great for a 22.

http://www.amazon.com/Leapers-6-24x5...215275&sr=8-19

Ill keep it in mind. I normally dont like the iluminated recticle bullshit on cheap scopes... I wish they would put that money into other parts of the scope.

Thanks

[beefdawg]

here ya go:http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...isplay.php?f=9

[takotruckin]

Originally Posted by runnerboyy

I normally dont like the iluminated recticle bullshit on cheap scopes... I wish they would put that money into other parts of the scope.

Thanks

No shit huh. But it makes it "cool" so they sell more..

[runnerboyy]

Originally Posted by beefdawg

here ya go:http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...isplay.php?f=9

Been there for the last couple days.

I probally should join there, but i really prefer pirate to all aspects of life.

[thedonn007]

Search for the thread made by 01tundra. His 10/22 is pretty sweet.

[runnerboyy]

Originally Posted by thedonn007

Search for the thread made by 01tundra. His 10/22 is pretty sweet.

I have read it over many times, but not recently.

Thanks for the reminder.

[broncman]

Subscribed... I just bought my second 10/22. A SR-22 and put a cheap red dot on it. EVERYONE fights over it when we go out!

Deffinitely post up any pics.

[micky_blue]

Well... if you are building a ground up, top of the line 10/22 I would start with a receiver. Look at Nodak NDS-22 and the Volquartsen. I think Magnum Research sells the receiver they make as well. I have a Magnum Research 22 mag with the hogue and carbon barrel and really like the rifle but it comes with a really bad trigger, even by 10/22 standards. Timney fixed that and it shoots clover leafs at 50. I have not had the chance to see what it does at 100 and I would like to see 150.

[runnerboyy]

Originally Posted by broncman

Subscribed... I just bought my second 10/22. A SR-22 and put a cheap red dot on it. EVERYONE fights over it when we go out!

Deffinitely post up any pics.

Im hoping to start ordering parts in about two weeks. Im still recovering from a very recent purchace of a .50 bmg setup i bought from someone on here. It hasnt even shipped yet and im already planning something else.

I have teh sickness.


Im pretty good at buying guns that i know for a fact i will either break even on or make money when it comes time to sell.. I can see this one will be very different. I guess my only solution is never selling it.

[runnerboyy]

Originally Posted by micky_blue

Well... if you are building a ground up, top of the line 10/22 I would start with a receiver. Look at Nodak NDS-22 and the Volquartsen. I think Magnum Research sells the receiver they make as well. I have a Magnum Research 22 mag with the hogue and carbon barrel and really like the rifle but it comes with a really bad trigger, even by 10/22 standards. Timney fixed that and it shoots clover leafs at 50. I have not had the chance to see what it does at 100 and I would like to see 150.

I am hoping not to have to build from the ground up. That shit gets expendive quick. I have to remind myself its just a .22

The main point of this post is to help me draw the line. Which factory ruger parts are going to be good enough? i am okay with spending money, and i want to do it right, but if i dont need to spend an extra $700 on a reciever, bolt, all the internals, complete trigger assy., etc i dont want to.

Im in school, and the more expensive this rifle gets is directly proportional to the quality of my diet.

[runnerboyy]

I plan to get a threaded barrel, (for a future S.C. S.S. sparrow) but to get the plain old thread protector cap along with it is an extra 30 bucks. I think instead i would rather buy a Tac Sol Compensator for the same price and use it as a thread protector.

I understand its a .22, and i do not need recoil reduction, to be honest its the same price, but it looks pimp.

Anyone seen a tac sol compensator on a non tactical solutions barrel? Does the aluminum comp, and the stainless barrel somewhat match?

[YellowIH]

Originally Posted by runnerboyy

I plan to get a threaded barrel, (for a future S.C. S.S. sparrow) but to get the plain old thread protector cap along with it is an extra 30 bucks. I think instead i would rather buy a Tac Sol Compensator for the same price and use it as a thread protector.

I understand its a .22, and i do not need recoil reduction, to be honest its the same price, but it looks pimp.

Anyone seen a tac sol compensator on a non tactical solutions barrel? Does the aluminum comp, and the stainless barrel somewhat match?

The Tac sol barrel is light and jumps off the bags on mine without the comp. Tac sol barrel will do single hole multi shots at 25 and 50. It's nice. I have the volquart drop in trigger assemblies rock my money pit 10/22's....

[runnerboyy]

Originally Posted by YellowIH

The Tac sol barrel is light and jumps off the bags on mine without the comp. Tac sol barrel will do single hole multi shots at 25 and 50. It's nice. I have the volquart drop in trigger assemblies rock my money pit 10/22's....

Im fairly set on a fluted Kidd barrel. If that decision is not a good one, talk me out of it. Any imput on a tac sol comp on a stainless barrel not looking stupid?

Any reason why i should get a full trigger assembly over just the "guts" installed in a factory trigger group? Thats all thats imporntant right?

[YellowIH]

Originally Posted by runnerboyy

Im fairly set on a fluted Kidd barrel. If that decision is not a good one, talk me out of it. Any imput on a tac sol comp on a stainless barrel not looking stupid?

Any reason why i should get a full trigger assembly over just the "guts" installed in a factory trigger group? Thats all thats imporntant right?

I saw that comp or a savage tr, the barrel was a smaller diameter and looked dumb. I like the high desert dog spiral threaded bull barrels. They come in stainless. I'm sure the Kidd is fine. I just chose the two here after my research, same for the triggers. EZ and effective. Buy once, cry once.

[runnerboyy]

Originally Posted by YellowIH

I saw that comp or a savage tr, the barrel was a smaller diameter and looked dumb. I like the high desert dog spiral threaded bull barrels. They come in stainless. I'm sure the Kidd is fine. I just chose the two here after my research, same for the triggers. EZ and effective. Buy once, cry once.

Did the savage have a .920 bull barrel?

I looked up the high desert barrels, they look very nice especially for the money. With that being said, after all the research i have done on R.F.C. i *think* i want a fluted kidd barrel. They seem to be the top of the line. Just to be safe, i will do some more research on the H.D.D. barrels.

If the Kidd trigger kit is a waste of time, please by all means tell me. I really dont want to waste $100 on it. What extra upgraded parts are you getting with the complete trigger assembly that does not come with the cheaper kit? As far as i know, the bling ass trigger housing does nothing for the feel of the trigger.. the Kit im looking at comes with a hammer with fitted bushings on either side, fitted pin, sear, disconnect, trigger blade assembly with disconnected pin, overtravel adjustment screw, sear pin and slave sear pin.

Do you have any opinion on optics?


Thanks for your imput.

[dunno]

On the trigger part of this, I've used the Power Custom sear/hammer kit four times and been satisfied. One one install, I drilled and tapped the factory trigger for an over travel screw. They usually get you down between 2 and 3 lbs and have little to no creep. Just offering my .02 as a lower cost alternative. Good luck with the build and post pics!

[runnerboyy]

After much thought and research, im pretty well set on a brimstone tier1 trigger rework. The reviews i have seen says this the guy at brimstone can turn a factory trigger into something nearly identical to a $250 plus full blown custom trigger for well under half the price. Im thinking i want it around 2.5 lbs?

I have also decided ill be using the stock bolt re worked and jewled by QUE.

[BigBlue&Goldie]

If you want the best, go with KIDD. Their barrels and triggers are the best of the best.

If you want a good a good budget shooter, stick with a Ruger reciever, Power Custom adjustable hammer/sear kit, and have your bolt reworked by somebody such as Randy at PPC. Throw a KIDD barrel, on it and you will be good to go.

If you don't already have the Ruger, than I would just start from the ground up with a new receiver, cause by the time you are done there won't be anything else left.

[runnerboyy]

Originally Posted by BigBlue&Goldie

If you want the best, go with KIDD. Their barrels and triggers are the best of the best.

If you want a good a good budget shooter, stick with a Ruger reciever, Power Custom adjustable hammer/sear kit, and have your bolt reworked by somebody such as Randy at PPC. Throw a KIDD barrel, on it and you will be good to go.

If you don't already have the Ruger, than I would just start from the ground up with a new receiver, cause by the time you are done there won't be anything else left.

I was really hoping no one said that...

I dont have a donor gun yet, and used rifles are going for 200 plus around here.

Besides the reciever, complete bolt, complete trigger group, bolt buffer, and recoil spring/ guide? what other little things would i need to complete a stripped reciever?

[dunno]

The barrel retainer block and screws.

[SCOTTS_4X]

I've got the full array of power customs parts for my trigger in mine and I really don't think it can get much better. The trigger has no creep, no overtravel, breaks very cleanly at 2.5-3 lbs. I tuned up the bolt a little on my own, installed and tuned the trigger parts, put a tac-sol barrel and a hogue stock on it. I shoot it at 22 steel matches and also to kill squirrels. It wears a cheap red dot at the range and a cheap little barska 3-9x32 at home. Its very light and pretty accurate, I'd say minute of squirrel head at 100yds.

-scott

[runnerboyy]

Originally Posted by dunno

The barrel retainer block and screws.

Forgot about the retainer block. Thanks.

Originally Posted by SCOTTS_4X

I've got the full array of power customs parts for my trigger in mine and I really don't think it can get much better. The trigger has no creep, no overtravel, breaks very cleanly at 2.5-3 lbs. I tuned up the bolt a little on my own, installed and tuned the trigger parts, put a tac-sol barrel and a hogue stock on it. I shoot it at 22 steel matches and also to kill squirrels. It wears a cheap red dot at the range and a cheap little barska 3-9x32 at home. Its very light and pretty accurate, I'd say minute of squirrel head at 100yds.

-scott

Thats somewhat similar to my last 10/22, Light fairly accurate, woods style squirrel gun. If the trigger on my last rifle were better i think i would have gotten alot better groups out of it.