Current Product for Sale. Post will be updated as more are developed.
80% Complete Tomahawks
Straight handle $35 each , Curved handle $35 each. Made from 3/8 AR500 Plate steel.
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Straight Hammer head $35 each, Foli tool Either revision $35 each.
Name: Special
Price $35
Details: Designed by a coworker for a friend. Turned out excellent but I forgot to take a picture of the tomahawk before it was sent off.
Name: Zhawk.
Price $50.
Details: Larger then the normal tomahawks. A discount will be offered when order in pairs.
Note on shipping: USPS has a flat rate box for board games (23 11/16" x 11 3/4" x 3") that will fit the long handles on the axes. Current prices for the box is $16.35 so I suggest ordering some targets while your at it. Might has well make use of the empty space in the box.
Maybe remove the top hole on both designs...closest to the head. Most wont wrap cord that high and it will add strength to the neck/head when using the other end for prying...
That leaves good material for those that want to re-shape or sharpen the beard or alter the belly to a flatter angle.
And as for the question earlier about this vrs a wood handles hatchet: We (off-roaders/military/outdoorsmen) use tools sometimes not designed for what they are made for. The less to break the better, hence a solid handle. So now the entire tool can be used instead of just the sharp bits. I would have no problem using this as a belay point, pry bar, master key or pretty much anything else :laughing:
Lol that's what has me interested in this type of tool. I use my hatchet now as a hammer as well as to cut stuff but I don't carry it with me cause its heavy and bulky. So yeah I'd be interested in one if the price is right and all that good stuff
lol that's what has me interested in this type of tool. I use my hatchet now as a hammer as well as to cut stuff but i don't carry it with me cause its heavy and bulky. So yeah i'd be interested in one if the price is right and all that good stuff
I never finished all of the profiling in 3D as most would be done to suit on a belt sander etc, but you should get the point. It's my mix of a fire axe and survival hatchet. The whole design was based around cutting the tool from a flat peice of stock then finish grinding/machining. Who can forge easily anyhow?
-axe
-flat pry/wedge
-rolling pry bar (bottle opener on steroids :flipoff2: )
-nail puller
-pulling cutter (gut hook or seat belt style cutter)
There are a few areas of concern I wanted to tweak. One being the "bottle opener." I don't like that when using it the axe blade would be pulled towards the user. Of course, the spike towards the user isn't much better. I think I'd want to flip it the other direction still though as I had envisioned the spike actually being cutoff about half-way, and a flat bar weled on as a hammer/blunt face. I may spend some time in CAD real quick and post a follow-up to make it more clear.
The blank profile as it would be cut
Some "concept" finishing done in 3D
Critique this please if you'd like. I wouldn't mind making tweaks and letting the OP use my .dxfs and offer them here if anyone even likes it.
^that's what I think I'd want in a multi-tool hatchet axe thing. It comes in 2.09 lbs per mass properties. I don't exactly have AR500 identified, but it's close enough that noone would notice. Doesn't account for weld material either. That's almost exactly what the M48 Tactical weighs.
^that's what I think I'd want in a multi-tool hatchet axe thing. It comes in 2.09 lbs per mass properties. I don't exactly have AR500 identified, but it's close enough that noone would notice. Doesn't account for weld material either. That's almost exactly what the M48 Tactical weighs.
lilbucket, Too much shit :flipoff2: change the hole angle in the regular oval handle slot and it becomes a bottle opener (like file it at an angle), the side of the blade is a hammer. And the pry bar at the top will annoy you.
Shefron, let me know when you start kicking them out, I will take 1 or 2 of the strait handles
My design input comes from my experience in fire/rescue. When you're in a burning building, you want any and every (functional) tool on hand in the most all-in-one package possible. To many times I've though, or said, "fawk, I need a _____!"
I really don't intend the bottom part to be an actual bottle opener. More of a rolling lifter. A slight chamfer on the flat face of that feature and I could make one hell of an opening in a car door jamb (for the hydraulic tools). One config in my model actually puts the prybar in that location. I'll post a pic if anyone cares.
As far as a hammer, I don't want to half hass hit something with a wide surface area like the side of the blade. I'm either making a hole or driving something with a concentrated effort requiring a bit of accuracy.
Good discussion though! Thanks OP! I've had my design for a while and never did anything with it, or thought much about it until this thread!
Ok....yalll have me playing again!! This is all in configurations so I can do different versions quite easily.
MT your point about looking like a bottle opener made be rethink the cutout shape. No need to have that added ledge. Also, removed the pry bar at top and made it into a screw driver (or still a prying edge). Docs point made me realize that a sheath for the other version would be a PIA and likely stab the hell out of my elbows when down on all fours.
A hammer before a spike for me. I'd likely make a blunt face out of the spike trying to beat something into submission anyhow!!
O....I tried to actually use some swing geometry in the design. I've never designed one of these, so my concept may be off base, but it was logical to me.
Ok....yalll have me playing again!! This is all in configurations so I can do different versions quite easily.
MT your point about looking like a bottle opener made be rethink the cutout shape. No need to have that added ledge. Also, removed the pry bar at top and made it into a screw driver (or still a prying edge). Docs point made me realize that a sheath for the other version would be a PIA and likely stab the hell out of my elbows when down on all fours.
A hammer before a spike for me. I'd likely make a blunt face out of the spike trying to beat something into submission anyhow!!
O....I tried to actually use some swing geometry in the design. I've never designed one of these, so my concept may be off base, but it was logical to me.
You're absolutely right. I would not want a typical tomahawk. Basically, a handheld multi-purposed fire axe when it comes down to it.
A fire axe blade is just that, symmetrical. Mine has more extreme tails, but IMO that's more forgiving when working with a short hand tool as far as striking surface goes.
If I should move my pondering to another thread let me know. Just some good minds in here already. PLEASE tell me if so, especially OP!!
Making this have a "hammer" instead of the spike or whatever opposite the blade allows you to use another hammer (or rock/branch) to split wood with it.
Although to the OP. I still like the idea of a so called 80% hawk ready for the customer to finish and if you ever do get one made and on the marked I will likely buy it. After all I have more the 1 gun so multiple hawks has to good thing as well.
Here is the product. I will make the curve handle the same size of the straight. Not sure why I made it an inch longer.
Give me some time to catch up with all the post on the thread. Figured people would want to see the finish stuff.
Note on shipping: USPS has a flat rate box for board games (23 11/16" x 11 3/4" x 3") that will fit the long handles on the axes. Current prices for the box is $16.35 so I suggest ordering some targets while your at it. Might has well make use of the empty space in the box. :grinpimp:
Note on shipping: USPS has a flat rate box for board games (23 11/16" x 11 3/4" x 3") that will fit the long handles on the axes. Current prices for the box is $16.35 so I suggest ordering some targets while your at it. Might has well make use of the empty space in the box. :grinpimp:
meh, just leave it. no one argues over an extra inch :laughing:
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