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Old 12-02-2005, 08:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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gun people: .308 headstamp ID/WTF is this ammo

What the fuck is this round.
FMJ, copper bullet Headstamp:308W at 12 Oclock, circles at 9 and 3 Oclock, 83 at 6 Oclock.(pics if you need them can be got)
I got as much as its Sellier & Bellot but is it corrosive?
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Old 12-02-2005, 08:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I assume it's non-NATO?? No circle-cross stamping?
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Old 12-02-2005, 08:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Sounds like military ammo that was made in 1983. Is this surplus stuff?
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Old 12-02-2005, 08:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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It appears to be S&B Czech stuff, corrosive. That's about all I can find for now. Probably didn't help much.
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Old 12-02-2005, 08:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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this is it.

I just want to what the fuck it is

alli have read about corrosive ammo is wash with water or windex and then clean as normal.
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Old 12-02-2005, 08:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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From the guys at the gun store I talked to said corrosive is fine to use as long as you do a good cleaning. Why would you use water or windex first? What does that do?
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NY_crawler
From the guys at the gun store I talked to said corrosive is fine to use as long as you do a good cleaning. Why would you use water or windex first? What does that do?
neutralize the corrosive salts
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NY_crawler
From the guys at the gun store I talked to said corrosive is fine to use as long as you do a good cleaning. Why would you use water or windex first? What does that do?

ammonia in the windex neutralises the acid from the primers.

I shoot corrosive in my mosin all the time with no problems. Just give it a good cleaning right after shooting.
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcdoc14
neutralize the corrosive salts
Ah ok. And just using solvent like Hoppes 9 will not?
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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S&B from '83 and most likely corrosive. Only sure way to know is to pull the bullet and test the primer on bare carbon steel.

Is the bullet steel core?

Did these come sealed in battle packs? Crate?

The reason you use water to clean up after firing corrosive is the same reason it is used to clean black powder. Water dissolves the corrosive salt residue leftover from the ignition. Oil base cleaners will not dissolve salts as well as plain old water.

Clean as you normally would after the water treatment. You will know within 24-48hrs if you didn't get it all out.
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NY_crawler
Ah ok. And just using solvent like Hoppes 9 will not?

ya but i prefer not to just dump a bottle of Hoppes down my barrel and action as its kind pricey
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brain
S&B from '83 and most likely corrosive. Only sure way to know is to pull the bullet and test the primer on bare carbon steel.

Is the bullet steel core?

Did these come sealed in battle packs? Crate?

The reason you use water to clean up after firing corrosive is the same reason it is used to clean black powder. Water dissolves the corrosive salt residue leftover from the ignition. Oil base cleaners will not dissolve salts as well as plain old water.

Clean as you normally would after the water treatment. You will know within 24-48hrs if you didn't get it all out.
no clue on core.
light blue paper boxes marked exactly "20pcs .308 Winchester (7,62 x 51 mm) "




I believe they ARE corrosive as my barrel (used gun) is pitted inside and looks rough. The lands/grooves are sharp but it just looks "dirty" even after cleaning.
(i have a spare barrel, i just want to see how this will shoot first)
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcdoc14
no clue on core.
Put a magnet to the bullet and see if it sticks. Sticks hard=steel jacket=bad for rifling, or if it barely sticks=steel core.

Have a bullet puller?
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brain
Put a magnet to the bullet and see if it sticks. Sticks hard=steel jacket=bad for rifling, or if it barely sticks=steel core.

Have a bullet puller?
sticks HARD copper wash? (doesnt seem that way)

yes i have a bullet puller


you need a description or pics?
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcdoc14
sticks HARD copper wash? (doesnt seem that way)

yes i have a bullet puller


you need a description or pics?

Probably a copper plating over steel jacket. However, I have seen the copper wash to prevent corrosion on ammo made in 3rd world countries which didn't put much $ into their ammo.

Take some copper solvent (sweets 7.62) to the bullet and see how thick the coating is. If it is a thin coat and you value your new bbl I wouldn't recommend shooting the stuff through it.

No pics, I know what you're looking at.

Nice bullet puller by the way. You should get an inertia puller. Doubles as a good cat thumper.
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
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well i cant scrape it off so i know its not a wash, I will cut one in half tomorow.

so what is this shit good for (besides plinking) armor piercing abilities? good penitration, spalling? distance?
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Old 12-02-2005, 10:05 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by usmcdoc14
well i cant scrape it off so i know its not a wash, I will cut one in half tomorow.

so what is this shit good for (besides plinking) armor piercing abilities? good penitration, spalling? distance?

It will go through soft armor and through thin non-armor-rated metal stuff like car doors and the like. I'm guessing that it is 147gr so you're probably looking at an effective penetration distance of 500yds depending on the target. Spalling effectiveness is >500yds on concrete.
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Old 12-02-2005, 10:09 PM   #18 (permalink)
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well, lets see what it does at the range tomorow

thank you for the info you have redeemed yourself from any previous lack of ballistic information
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Old 12-02-2005, 10:52 PM   #19 (permalink)
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spalling? what is that?
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Old 12-03-2005, 07:03 AM   #20 (permalink)
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spalling? what is that?
shoot brick/concrete/ballistic proof glass and it throws large chunks out of the unprotected side with enough force to hurt/kill.

your target is behind a concrete wall, you know "where" he is, you shoot wall, you dont kill him with the actual bullet but with the chucks of high velocity concrete blown off the backside.
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Old 12-03-2005, 09:46 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by usmcdoc14
your target is behind a concrete wall, you know "where" he is, you shoot wall, you dont kill him with the actual bullet but with the chucks of high velocity concrete blown off the backside.
Or you chuckle to yourself and hit him and his "protective" wall with a burst of .50 cal
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Old 12-03-2005, 10:04 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugger99
Or you chuckle to yourself and hit him and his "protective" wall with a burst of .50 cal
or an AT-4 but for my "home" aplication i would rather lay down a bunch of cheap 7.62NATO as i cant afford a .50 or the ammo for it


Too bad they got/getting rid of the SMAW it is a great anti-sniper weapon (I am an "unofficaly trained 0351)
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Old 12-03-2005, 10:17 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Too bad they got/getting rid of the SMAW it is a great anti-sniper weapon (I am an "unofficaly trained 0351)
WTF???? I hadn't heard anything about that SMAW is an awesome weapon with many uses.....especially with the NE round
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Old 12-03-2005, 12:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugger99
WTF???? I hadn't heard anything about that SMAW is an awesome weapon with many uses.....especially with the NE round
yup, i believe they are going to the Javlin
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