AK furniture refinishing thread - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

hoohaa · 04-10-2006, 07:41 PM

In this installment I will be using Rit dye to refinish Romanian AK furniture. I've written it on a "complete newbie" level because that's what I was four days ago when I started researching.

Go from this

To this (don't mind the fresh black paint):

These Romanian kits came from Copes Distributing. I was very impressed with their service. There was a slight mistake in my order and they handled it quickly. Their packaging was also excellent.

Each kit was wrapped in a thick plastic bag and then wrapped in several layers of paper. It is upsetting to open a package to find damage you know was done during shipping because of bad packaging.

I refinished three sets of furniture, each one a deeper shade of red.

First let's take a look at what I started with.

The pictures are not the best quality, but you can get a general idea of the condition of the furniture before I started. The wood is very dark and banged up.

Here is the finished furniture:

To start, you need to strip the wood. Here's a list of what you need:

Wood stripper $7
plastic scraper $2
medium sized brush $0.50
foil pan or plastic tub $??
rubber gloves (if you're messy - I didn't bother with these because I can keep my hands clean while

working with this stuff) $2
scotchbrite pads $??
access to water

I bought a 2 quart can of kleen strip from Home Depot. I used maybe 1/8 of it in the process of stripping four kits worth of wood. Start by tossing one furniture kit in the pan, then liberally apply the stripper to the wood using your brush. I put enough on that there was some running off the sides of the wood.

Leave for 45 minutes or so.

When you return, you should see something like this:

hoohaa · 04-10-2006, 07:41 PM

The old finish on the wood should be bubbled up. Take your plastic scraper and scrape off the old finish. It should come off easily. Don't put much pressure on the wood with the scraper, this will cause dents since the wood is wet. The old finish should peel off in sheets with each pass of the scraper. If you find it difficult to scrape up the finish, you may need to leave the stripper on the wood for another 15 minutes or so. If you find that most of the finish comes up easily, but small patches remain, go ahead and remove what you can. You can dab more stripper on those trouble spots and let it work for you.

To show just how easily the old finish should come up, I used a piece of clear plastic packaging as a scraper.

Scape the old finish off the wood, then take the scotchbrite pad to it under cold running water. You could also immerse the wood in a bucket of water to scrub it. You want to knock off any pieces of crud you can, but don't spend too much time with the wood in the water. I spent about thirty seconds on each piece.

Take the wood out of the sink and pad it dry with a towel. Let it air dry for an hour or two before moving to the next step.

If you have any dents you would like to raise, do it now. Place a slightly damp cloth over the dented area, then place a hot iron on the cloth. Hold it for a few seconds and check the dent.

Repeat until the dent is raised.

Sand the dried stripped wood beginning with 60 grit, then remove the 60 grit marks with 100 grit, remove the 100 grit marks with 150 gritt... to 220 grit. You will know what I mean when you try it.

You want a place to get comfortable when you do this step, don't rush through it. Pay very close attention to the direction of grain and only sand in that direction. You will have to change directions back and forth 90 degrees many times during the sanding. Just finesse it.

If you bear down on the wood to much you will make deep scratches that will be hard to remove. I try to only press down on the wood if there are spots I need to shave down, or bits of leftover finish to remove. Sand these spots with 60 grit, then gently sand with 60 grit to remove the deep scratches.

The goal is to get down to the 220 grit and have a smooth surface with no visible scratch marks.

Once you have the wood scratch-free, clean it with a tack cloth or a damp towel.

You need to choose how you will stain/dye/finish the furniture at this point. I chose to use Rit dye and I strongly recommend this method, but some people use Formby's or Minwax products. If you are using Rit dye, just skip to the next step. If you decide to use one of the other wood finishing products, just follow the directions on the packaging. I will add a word of caution here: I have heard that it is difficult to touch up polyurethane finishes. I have no experience with polyurethane, so take this with a grain of salt. You might want to look into this further before making a decision. I have seen stocks finished with other products, and I still prefer the Rit dye method.

For this how-to, I will assume you want a red or brown finish.

You need the following items:

Rit dyes:
Golden Yellow #42
Scarlet #5
Dark Brown #25 (optional)
mixing cup
cheap paint brush
rubbing alcohol
0000 steel wool
Deft gloss clear spray

Get the Rit dye in liquid form if you can. I couldn't find yellow liquid, so I made my own using the powder you can see in this picture:

Just follow the directions to make dye from powder. You just add two cups of hot water for each one ounce package I believe.

I tried two different methods when I did mine. For the brownest (least red) finish pictured at the beginning (the set on top) I used no alcohol in the mix. I mixed 4 parts red, 4 parts yellow, and one part brown. The finish turned out beautiful, but I don't recommend using no alcohol because the process takes much longer.

Here's the "preferred" method:

Mix 1 part yellow, 1 part red, and 4 parts alcohol. Stir these in your mixing cup. You can add a small amount of brown to the mix if you are looking for a darker brown finish.

Test the mixture if you would like on a hidden part of the stock or on another piece of wood.

Apply the dye mix to your clean sanded furniture with the brush evenly.

The alcohol really speeds up this process. The wood soaks in the dye much more quickly this way. Just brush on one coat, by the time you have brushed one side, the other side will probably be starting to look dry.

hoohaa · 04-10-2006, 07:42 PM

The color you see when you first brush the dye on the wood will show you about the most tinted finish

you could obtain with the dye mixture you are using.

If you want a darker red, mix in more red dye, you get the picture. You will be able to lessen how

much color comes through by buffing with the steel wool - even to the point of bringing the wood back

to brown.

Let the wood soak the dye for five minutes or so. When it's dry, it will have a very matte looking

finish.

Buff the wood with steel wool.

IMPORTANT: Buff very lightly if you want a bright red, or buff more if you want a more subdued, brown

tone. The only difference between the second and third stock set was the amount of buffing I did

with steel wool. For the deeper red finish I just barely knocked off the rough dried dye, and for

the more brownish finish I really buffed the dye out well.

Either way, you need to buff enough to knock off the rougher textured dried dye on the surface. The

wood should have a satin-like sheen to it when you are done. This doesn't take much buffing.

Knock off the crud with a paper towel and repeat this process three times to ensure a consistent

finish.

hoohaa · 04-10-2006, 07:42 PM

Before spraying with Deft gloss, allow the wood to dry completely. Make sure the surface of the wood is free of lint or crud. I just wiped the wood down with a clean towel, you can use tack cloth if you have it I'd imagine.

Rig up a way to hold the furniture parts securely without getting your hands in the way. You can see what I used in the following pictures.

Spray the first coat of Deft gloss. This stuff dries very quickly. It's usually dry to the touch in less than 15 minutes, and completely dry in an hour. Pay attention to the amount you spray. If you spray too much and see a run starting, just level the piece out and let it dry a bit before proceeding. Don't worry too much about the thickness of this first coat.

Once the Deft dries to the touch, buff it out lightly with the 0000 steel wool. Don't buff too much, just enough to turn the gloss finish to satin.

Wipe the furniture down after buffing with a towel or tack cloth. Just make sure it's clean.

Spray the second coat of Deft clear gloss.

On this coat you want to get a consistent layer over the entire piece. Go for a layer thick enough that it covers up any surface imperfections. If you get any runs, just sand them down a bit with 220 grit.

Buff it, clean it, and prepare to lay down the final coat.

Spray this one as thick as you can without getting runs.

hoohaa · 04-10-2006, 07:43 PM

Enjoy!

critterkiller · 04-10-2006, 07:47 PM

Kickass. Been thinking about doing this myself. I saw a Norinco SKS stained in a dark green color. I bet it look kinda cool (and different) on a Kalashnikov.

Halogrinder · 04-10-2006, 07:48 PM

very nice. subscribed.

hoohaa · 04-10-2006, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by critterkiller

Kickass. Been thinking about doing this myself. I saw a Norinco SKS stained in a dark green color. I bet it look kinda cool (and different) on a Kalashnikov.

I actually have one here I plan to dye green, I just have to play around with green Rit dye beforehand.

basketcasejeep · 04-10-2006, 08:17 PM

Awesome. I really like the lighter tone of the one on the top(first few pics). It looks almost like a laminate stock.

I like the looks of grey 'weathered finish'. Have you seen anyone make a finish like that? I was in Lowes a few days ago and noticed rustoleum makes the textured finish paint in grey, green, and I think tan as well as the black you used.

Grey metal with grey furniture would look

imp:

hoohaa · 04-10-2006, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by basketcasejeep

Awesome. I really like the lighter tone of the one on the top(first few pics). It looks almost like a laminate stock.

I like the looks of grey 'weathered finish'. Have you seen anyone make a finish like that? I was in Lowes a few days ago and noticed rustoleum makes the textured finish paint in grey, green, and I think tan as well as the black you used.

Grey metal with grey furniture would look

imp:

That is a good idea... Grey on grey would be hot. I bet you could bleach the wood a few times and then use black Rit dye to get a grey finish. I would have to look into it though, maybe experiment a little.

usmcdoc14 · 04-10-2006, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hoohaa

That is a good idea... Grey on grey would be hot. I bet you could bleach the wood a few times and then use black Rit dye to get a grey finish. I would have to look into it though, maybe experiment a little.

yup you can bleach it to near white. I played around making some "blond" stuff.

now I just spray paint it all

looks good man

basketcasejeep · 04-10-2006, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hoohaa

That is a good idea... Grey on grey would be hot. I bet you could bleach the wood a few times and then use black Rit dye to get a grey finish. I would have to look into it though, maybe experiment a little.

It would definitely be different. I like the look of stainless, and that's about as close as I can/care to get.

Bill4rest · 04-11-2006, 04:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by basketcasejeep

Awesome. I really like the lighter tone of the one on the top(first few pics). It looks almost like a laminate stock.

Because they are

basketcasejeep · 04-11-2006, 04:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill4rest

Because they are

Really?

Anyone know what species of wood they're made from?

usmcdoc14 · 04-11-2006, 04:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by basketcasejeep

Really?

Anyone know what species of wood they're made from?

yes, really

ply wood. I believe the ply tree is native to northern Europe.

basketcasejeep · 04-11-2006, 05:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by usmcdoc14

yes, really

ply wood. I believe the ply tree is native to northern Europe.

Ah yes, the Plywoodius laminaflorus. A dominant species in the Urals.

Seriously, I thought they were solid. The ones I've held at the gun stores seemed like they were built very cheaply from light softwood plywood. That looks like a more dense wood. Are the stocks very heavy. Sheesh, I need to at least order me a kit while they're still around... won't be able to build for a while...

hoohaa · 04-11-2006, 05:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by basketcasejeep

Ah yes, the Plywoodius laminaflorus. A dominant species in the Urals.

Bill4rest · 04-11-2006, 05:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by usmcdoc14

yes, really

ply wood. I believe the ply tree is native to northern Europe.

That's funny

SSGTWC · 04-11-2006, 08:20 AM

NICE!!!!

I just finished the conversion on my Saiga.

But like usmcdoc14, I just took the rattle can to mine.

That is a nice job though!

Triaged · 04-11-2006, 08:22 AM

I've been thinking of reshaping my stock and dying it OD Green. I think it will look nice with just a bit of the "china wood" grain showing...wish mine had a nice laminate stock like that (at least my SKS does).

aloharover · 04-11-2006, 08:58 AM

Hoohaa,
came out very nice looking

I will be following your route when I redo the Romy wood. Only I plan on reshaping the handguard, cant stand the donkey dick.

Looks like you are putting the new workbench to good use

Pete

hoohaa · 04-11-2006, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aloharover

Hoohaa,
came out very nice looking

I will be following your route when I redo the Romy wood. Only I plan on reshaping the handguard, cant stand the donkey dick.

Looks like you are putting the new workbench to good use

Pete

Oh yes! I love having a clear area to work... I'm so much more productive now.

I am thinking hard about reshaping the handguard as well. I think I will leave the dark red hg as it is, but I might cut the pistol grip off of one of the others.

TLCObsession · 04-11-2006, 10:43 AM

What spray paint did you use to give it that fine texture?

usmcdoc14 · 04-11-2006, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TLCObsession

What spray paint did you use to give it that fine texture?

Rustolium #7220 "Textured finish " in black. bake it on in the oven.

Instructions are in the AK building thread

04-10-2006, 07:41 PM	#1 (permalink)
hoohaa Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Member # 55546 Location: Dallas Posts: 932	AK furniture refinishing thread In this installment I will be using Rit dye to refinish Romanian AK furniture. I've written it on a "complete newbie" level because that's what I was four days ago when I started researching. Go from this To this (don't mind the fresh black paint): These Romanian kits came from Copes Distributing. I was very impressed with their service. There was a slight mistake in my order and they handled it quickly. Their packaging was also excellent. Each kit was wrapped in a thick plastic bag and then wrapped in several layers of paper. It is upsetting to open a package to find damage you know was done during shipping because of bad packaging. I refinished three sets of furniture, each one a deeper shade of red. First let's take a look at what I started with. The pictures are not the best quality, but you can get a general idea of the condition of the furniture before I started. The wood is very dark and banged up. Here is the finished furniture: To start, you need to strip the wood. Here's a list of what you need: Wood stripper $7 plastic scraper $2 medium sized brush $0.50 foil pan or plastic tub $?? rubber gloves (if you're messy - I didn't bother with these because I can keep my hands clean while working with this stuff) $2 scotchbrite pads $?? access to water I bought a 2 quart can of kleen strip from Home Depot. I used maybe 1/8 of it in the process of stripping four kits worth of wood. Start by tossing one furniture kit in the pan, then liberally apply the stripper to the wood using your brush. I put enough on that there was some running off the sides of the wood. Leave for 45 minutes or so. When you return, you should see something like this: Last edited by hoohaa; 04-10-2006 at 07:47 PM.

04-10-2006, 07:41 PM	#2 (permalink)
hoohaa Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Member # 55546 Location: Dallas Posts: 932	The old finish on the wood should be bubbled up. Take your plastic scraper and scrape off the old finish. It should come off easily. Don't put much pressure on the wood with the scraper, this will cause dents since the wood is wet. The old finish should peel off in sheets with each pass of the scraper. If you find it difficult to scrape up the finish, you may need to leave the stripper on the wood for another 15 minutes or so. If you find that most of the finish comes up easily, but small patches remain, go ahead and remove what you can. You can dab more stripper on those trouble spots and let it work for you. To show just how easily the old finish should come up, I used a piece of clear plastic packaging as a scraper. Scape the old finish off the wood, then take the scotchbrite pad to it under cold running water. You could also immerse the wood in a bucket of water to scrub it. You want to knock off any pieces of crud you can, but don't spend too much time with the wood in the water. I spent about thirty seconds on each piece. Take the wood out of the sink and pad it dry with a towel. Let it air dry for an hour or two before moving to the next step. If you have any dents you would like to raise, do it now. Place a slightly damp cloth over the dented area, then place a hot iron on the cloth. Hold it for a few seconds and check the dent. Repeat until the dent is raised. Sand the dried stripped wood beginning with 60 grit, then remove the 60 grit marks with 100 grit, remove the 100 grit marks with 150 gritt... to 220 grit. You will know what I mean when you try it. You want a place to get comfortable when you do this step, don't rush through it. Pay very close attention to the direction of grain and only sand in that direction. You will have to change directions back and forth 90 degrees many times during the sanding. Just finesse it. If you bear down on the wood to much you will make deep scratches that will be hard to remove. I try to only press down on the wood if there are spots I need to shave down, or bits of leftover finish to remove. Sand these spots with 60 grit, then gently sand with 60 grit to remove the deep scratches. The goal is to get down to the 220 grit and have a smooth surface with no visible scratch marks. Once you have the wood scratch-free, clean it with a tack cloth or a damp towel. You need to choose how you will stain/dye/finish the furniture at this point. I chose to use Rit dye and I strongly recommend this method, but some people use Formby's or Minwax products. If you are using Rit dye, just skip to the next step. If you decide to use one of the other wood finishing products, just follow the directions on the packaging. I will add a word of caution here: I have heard that it is difficult to touch up polyurethane finishes. I have no experience with polyurethane, so take this with a grain of salt. You might want to look into this further before making a decision. I have seen stocks finished with other products, and I still prefer the Rit dye method. For this how-to, I will assume you want a red or brown finish. You need the following items: Rit dyes: Golden Yellow #42 Scarlet #5 Dark Brown #25 (optional) mixing cup cheap paint brush rubbing alcohol 0000 steel wool Deft gloss clear spray Get the Rit dye in liquid form if you can. I couldn't find yellow liquid, so I made my own using the powder you can see in this picture: Just follow the directions to make dye from powder. You just add two cups of hot water for each one ounce package I believe. I tried two different methods when I did mine. For the brownest (least red) finish pictured at the beginning (the set on top) I used no alcohol in the mix. I mixed 4 parts red, 4 parts yellow, and one part brown. The finish turned out beautiful, but I don't recommend using no alcohol because the process takes much longer. Here's the "preferred" method: Mix 1 part yellow, 1 part red, and 4 parts alcohol. Stir these in your mixing cup. You can add a small amount of brown to the mix if you are looking for a darker brown finish. Test the mixture if you would like on a hidden part of the stock or on another piece of wood. Apply the dye mix to your clean sanded furniture with the brush evenly. The alcohol really speeds up this process. The wood soaks in the dye much more quickly this way. Just brush on one coat, by the time you have brushed one side, the other side will probably be starting to look dry. Last edited by hoohaa; 04-10-2006 at 07:56 PM.

04-10-2006, 07:42 PM	#4 (permalink)
hoohaa Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Member # 55546 Location: Dallas Posts: 932	Before spraying with Deft gloss, allow the wood to dry completely. Make sure the surface of the wood is free of lint or crud. I just wiped the wood down with a clean towel, you can use tack cloth if you have it I'd imagine. Rig up a way to hold the furniture parts securely without getting your hands in the way. You can see what I used in the following pictures. Spray the first coat of Deft gloss. This stuff dries very quickly. It's usually dry to the touch in less than 15 minutes, and completely dry in an hour. Pay attention to the amount you spray. If you spray too much and see a run starting, just level the piece out and let it dry a bit before proceeding. Don't worry too much about the thickness of this first coat. Once the Deft dries to the touch, buff it out lightly with the 0000 steel wool. Don't buff too much, just enough to turn the gloss finish to satin. Wipe the furniture down after buffing with a towel or tack cloth. Just make sure it's clean. Spray the second coat of Deft clear gloss. On this coat you want to get a consistent layer over the entire piece. Go for a layer thick enough that it covers up any surface imperfections. If you get any runs, just sand them down a bit with 220 grit. Buff it, clean it, and prepare to lay down the final coat. Spray this one as thick as you can without getting runs. Last edited by hoohaa; 04-10-2006 at 07:57 PM.

04-10-2006, 07:47 PM	#6 (permalink)
critterkiller Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Member # 35690 Posts: 43	Kickass. Been thinking about doing this myself. I saw a Norinco SKS stained in a dark green color. I bet it look kinda cool (and different) on a Kalashnikov. __________________ Totalled vehicles to date: 1986 F-150, 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse, 2 shopping carts, a bicycle and a lawn mower.

04-10-2006, 07:48 PM	#7 (permalink)
Halogrinder Moderhater Join Date: Feb 2003 Member # 16980 Location: h-town Posts: 11,312	very nice. subscribed. __________________ Im your BMW huckleberry https://www.facebook.com/BMWdoctor can you do me a favor and like/share my page? If you like/share, you get free washes/discounts/other neat stuff for you car! gun facts that will blow your mind: http://www.gunfacts.info/pdfs/gun-fa...6_1_screen.pdf

04-10-2006, 07:42 PM	#3 (permalink)
hoohaa Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Member # 55546 Location: Dallas Posts: 932	The color you see when you first brush the dye on the wood will show you about the most tinted finish you could obtain with the dye mixture you are using. If you want a darker red, mix in more red dye, you get the picture. You will be able to lessen how much color comes through by buffing with the steel wool - even to the point of bringing the wood back to brown. Let the wood soak the dye for five minutes or so. When it's dry, it will have a very matte looking finish. Buff the wood with steel wool. IMPORTANT: Buff very lightly if you want a bright red, or buff more if you want a more subdued, brown tone. The only difference between the second and third stock set was the amount of buffing I did with steel wool. For the deeper red finish I just barely knocked off the rough dried dye, and for the more brownish finish I really buffed the dye out well. Either way, you need to buff enough to knock off the rougher textured dried dye on the surface. The wood should have a satin-like sheen to it when you are done. This doesn't take much buffing. Knock off the crud with a paper towel and repeat this process three times to ensure a consistent finish.

04-10-2006, 07:43 PM	#5 (permalink)
hoohaa Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Member # 55546 Location: Dallas Posts: 932	Enjoy!

04-10-2006, 08:17 PM	#9 (permalink)
basketcasejeep Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Member # 34936 Location: GA Posts: 442	Awesome. I really like the lighter tone of the one on the top(first few pics). It looks almost like a laminate stock. I like the looks of grey 'weathered finish'. Have you seen anyone make a finish like that? I was in Lowes a few days ago and noticed rustoleum makes the textured finish paint in grey, green, and I think tan as well as the black you used. Grey metal with grey furniture would look imp: __________________ . . . but in the Kalahari it is always Tuesday, or Thursday, or whatever day you like . . .

04-11-2006, 08:20 AM	#19 (permalink)
SSGTWC Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Member # 10775 Location: Wamego, KS Posts: 822	NICE!!!! I just finished the conversion on my Saiga. But like usmcdoc14, I just took the rattle can to mine. That is a nice job though! __________________ [QUOTE=CAMO;4] [B] build what ya can with what you have and plan on redoing it a few dozen times as you learn the required skills [/B][/QUOTE] Never, underestimate the amount of stupidity in people!

04-11-2006, 08:22 AM	#20 (permalink)
Triaged Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Member # 5110 Location: SoCal Posts: 4,676	I've been thinking of reshaping my stock and dying it OD Green. I think it will look nice with just a bit of the "china wood" grain showing...wish mine had a nice laminate stock like that (at least my SKS does). __________________ Link to thread on my calculator http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204893 Last edited by Triaged; 04-11-2006 at 08:22 AM.

04-11-2006, 08:58 AM	#21 (permalink)
aloharover lets go Squatchen Join Date: Oct 2002 Member # 14561 Posts: 15,866	Hoohaa, came out very nice looking I will be following your route when I redo the Romy wood. Only I plan on reshaping the handguard, cant stand the donkey dick. Looks like you are putting the new workbench to good use Pete

04-11-2006, 10:43 AM	#23 (permalink)
TLCObsession Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Member # 3245 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 1,131	What spray paint did you use to give it that fine texture? __________________ Never subscribe to a conspiracy theory when the stupidity theory will suffice.

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