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Old 11-24-2008, 05:25 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I told you I would have questions

I received my 2 EBR's. One DS EEEK & a CMMG LW complete rifle from Pete the other day. I've only put about 40 rounds through each to sight them in.

On the DS, which came fully assembled from Pete so I didn't get to play with it putting it together, it won't cycle a round automatically. My brother was shooting it & didn't inform me of this until we were almost through shooting. It will eject the spent round, just won't cycle a new round until you do it manually.

I shot it a few times after he finished sighting it in & was able to get it to cycle 4 rounds, then on the fifth it didn't eject the spent round & jammed that & a new round half way in the chamber. I'm thinking the misfeed problem might have something to do with the magazine not being held tight. We did try a different magazine & it didn't help, but when I was shooting it, I rested the mag slightly on the bench & was able to get it to cycle a few rounds. My brother was holding it off the bench & it would never cycle at all. Does that make sense at all?

I plan to go shooting again as soon as my ammo gets in, but is there anything I could try to get it going? I think they frown on taking your guns apart at the shooting station to work on them. This was all done with brass ammo(Hornady mostly).

My CMMG only had a few problwms with not ejecting the spent round and jamming the new round in there with the spent. It mostly shot fine. Both were shot using the Charles Daly mags that came with the CMMG since I can't find any PMags yet.
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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dump it at the next gun show, for double what you have in it, buy ak-74.
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Old 11-24-2008, 06:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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See if you can get your hands on some different magazines. That could be the problem.
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Old 11-24-2008, 06:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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try p-mags. They feed the round slightly higher.
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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was the bolt holding open on the last round?
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:25 AM   #6 (permalink)
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was the bolt holding open on the last round?

Nope. Except once when I was watching him shoot, it held slightly open. Not full open like with an empty mag, just not fully closed.
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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It could be a mag problem or short stroking
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:39 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Did you lube it?
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
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did you lube it?
x2
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Did you lube it?
Not yet. Shot it new right out of the box from Pete.

ANyone have a Pmag or two to sell me & I can sell them back to you when/if Pete gets the ones I back ordered in?
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:50 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Fawk the Penis mags, they won't help you here.

That's like taking a tylenol when you have a flat tire.

Grease 'er up and try again.
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:01 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Ok, next. 1:9 & 1:7 twist. What's the difference & how to get the most from each different rifle?
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
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1/9 twist is going to be fine for 90% of all factory ammo. 1/7 is needed if you decide to shoot heavy bullets above 68 grain. The majority of shooters will be fine with a 1/9.
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:08 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I can't get to Pete's site anymore as the work firewall finally blocked me. I believe the DS was 1/9 & the CMMG was 1/7. Just wondering if there was a real difference or if I should just shoot the same cheap ammo through both.
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:11 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I second that. PMags are just expensive luxory items. Plain ol' stainless steel mags are my fav. Also, the fact that its not feeding rounds and the bolt isnt holding open makes me think its short stroking.

Lube the living fuck out of it... even pop the buffer and buffer spring out and give it a light coating in the buffer tube.... then try again.
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:12 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I can't get to Pete's site anymore as the work firewall finally blocked me. I believe the DS was 1/9 & the CMMG was 1/7. Just wondering if there was a real difference or if I should just shoot the same cheap ammo through both.
Chances are you're shooting either 55gr. or 62 gr.

In which case either a 1/7 or a 1/9 is perfectly fine. youre barrel twist rate isnt going to have any bearing on your rifle not cycling.
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:16 AM   #17 (permalink)
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even pop the buffer and buffer spring out and give it a light coating in the buffer tube.... then try again.

I'm new to the AR stuff so I have no clue what you just said. Kinda why I was hoping to have to put together the EEEK gun so I'd be forced to learn something. I know...read Doc's thread. I've tried & there's still too many terms I don't understand.
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:16 AM   #18 (permalink)
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They will both shoot pretty much any off the shelf ammo(super heavy match stuff aside) just fine.
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:22 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Not yet. Shot it new right out of the box from Pete.

ANyone have a Pmag or two to sell me & I can sell them back to you when/if Pete gets the ones I back ordered in?
Stupid fuck. never, ever shoot a gun straight out of the bax. Take that sumbitch apart, clean it, inspect it, lube it, then put it back together. I would suggest, since this was your first AR, take it apart and put it back together a few times and then shoot it. That way if something fucks up you have a better understanding of how things work and therefore will be better suited to figure out what the fuckin problem is.
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Old 11-24-2008, 09:06 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Nope. Except once when I was watching him shoot, it held slightly open. Not full open like with an empty mag, just not fully closed.
No, he asked did it hold open on the last round....empty mag. He wants to know if it was short cycling...


Did you try several different types? My new 20" AR was doing exactly what yours is doing with Wolf Black Box for about 300 rounds. Brass cased good stuff worked just fine in it. Around 250 rounds I found that the military classic wolf was working. Sometime after 300 I tried black box again and it worked. Many guns just need some time to break in.

Also you realy need to clean that thing when you get it and then after 50-100 rounds. That way any metal that flakes off when you are breaking it in can get cleaned out of there. New AR's realy work better when wet...
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Old 11-24-2008, 09:21 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Stupid fuck. never, ever shoot a gun straight out of the bax. Take that sumbitch apart, clean it, inspect it, lube it, then put it back together. I would suggest, since this was your first AR, take it apart and put it back together a few times and then shoot it. That way if something fucks up you have a better understanding of how things work and therefore will be better suited to figure out what the fuckin problem is.
Fawk off noob. He should be able to shoot it right out of the box. All the guns I've bought new I shot right out of the box
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Old 11-24-2008, 09:29 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Fawk off noob. He should be able to shoot it right out of the box. All the guns I've bought new I shot right out of the box
I once read an article that a gunsmith wrote. He told about the countless amounts of fuckups he had seen the factory make but did not get caught until someone tried to shoot the gun. Just some of the highlights were barrels full of cosmoline, a certain ruger rifle that was shipped with a cosmoline impregnated cardboard rod crammed down the barrell, a rifle that had been shipped out with a smooth bore. This article really opened my eyes. Since reading this i have found absolutely no reason to not give the gun a good cleaning and inspection before it is shot. Its just good practice.
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Old 11-24-2008, 09:39 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I once read an article that a gunsmith wrote. He told about the countless amounts of fuckups he had seen the factory make but did not get caught until someone tried to shoot the gun. Just some of the highlights were barrels full of cosmoline, a certain ruger rifle that was shipped with a cosmoline impregnated cardboard rod crammed down the barrell, a rifle that had been shipped out with a smooth bore. This article really opened my eyes. Since reading this i have found absolutely no reason to not give the gun a good cleaning and inspection before it is shot. Its just good practice.
So maybe you should have tried saying that instead of calling him a stupid f&*k.

Lube it up.
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Old 11-24-2008, 09:46 AM   #24 (permalink)
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As others have said, it sounds like lube (lack of it) is your problem. AR's like to run wet, so since you are new to it, here's a quick run down on how to lube it up. I use CLP made by breakfree, but any gun oil will work.

Start by verifying the chamber is empty, mag removed, drop the hammer.

From the side opposite the ejection port, push the rearmost pin to the ejection port side, then repeat with the forward most pin. From the ejection port side of the reciever, pull those two pins out as far as they will go. This will allow the top of the rifle (upper reciever) to be taken off the bottom of the rifle (lower reciever). Set the lower reciever aside.

With the upper reciever upside down, pull bak on the charging handle so both it and the bolt carrier slide to the rear. Pull the bolt carrier all the way out and set it aside. Then remove the charging handle, it has a keyway that you have to lift it out of, play around with it, you'll figure it out.

Your rifle is now field stripped and ready for cleaning/lubing.

Start with a drop of oil on the barrel lugs, that star looking part of the barrel in the upper reciever. Then oil the bolt, the star lookign thing on the bolt carrier. Drop a little on the extractor (tab on side of star looking thing on bolt carrier). On the side of the bolt carrier you will see two small holes one over the other, normally you can see them when the bolt is closed through teh ejection port, drop a bit of lube in them as well. Push the bolt in and pull it out of the carrier to work the lube in there. You can also put a drop of oil down the gas key (tube on top of bolt carrier) just for grins. Put the upper reciever back together, same way it came apart.

Now, on to the lower, put a drop of oil on each pivot pin you can see down inside the reciever. At the rear of the reciever where the stock attaches, you'll see the silver end of the buffer which is retained by a spring loaded pin at the bottom of it, put a few drops of oil on the circumfrence of the buffer inside the buffer tube and stand the reciever up on the end of the butt stock so oil can drip slowly down into the buffer tube, it doesn't take a whole hell of a lot so don't go nuts with it.

Reassemble the rifle the same way it came apart and run through a few function checks, cycle the bolt, dryfire, repeat.

Now go to the range and give it another try.

This is just a quick down and dirty run through, RTFM and do some looking online for the specifics.
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Old 11-24-2008, 09:46 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Yeah Jr. it's not what you said, it's how you said it. I for one totally agree with your premise by the way. Any new firearm should be taken down, cleaned, inspected and LUBED prior to first shots.

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