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Old 02-02-2010, 07:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Machining Metal

OK, I need to make a part out of 1.75" diameter steel.

going to be turning on the lath. need to center drill a 7/16 hole, bore a recess for the bolt head, then drill and tap some 10-32 holes around this center.

I will need to weld a piece of steel onto this after.
it doesn't need to be hardened or anything like that. just machineable. Will bead blast, park when done.

does it matter if I use 8620, 4130, 1018, or...
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Old 02-02-2010, 08:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i would just use mild steel. Stay away from anything high carbon and let it cool slowly after welding it.
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Old 02-02-2010, 08:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Only reason to use something besides 1018 is that you need a particular property that it lacks, hardness, flexibility, etc.

If you can, pre-heat the machined part to 500ish before welding, it will give you better penetration and be less prone to cracking. That is, unless both pars are extremely thick and you're just going to turn the welder up to 11 and blast away. Either way let it cool slowly, burring it in dray sand works great.
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Old 02-02-2010, 08:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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8620 is typically a gear type steel. Higher carbon and heat treatable. Way overkill. The 4130 would no be a good choice due to the welding portion. 1018 will be fine, only real downfall is difficulty obtaining a good finish, and hitting a dimension.
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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thanks.
Dims are not crittical. Hell +/- .05 will be more then good enough.
Bead blast finish and then end up getting duracoated.

Thanks
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
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no 6011 root with 7018 over it?
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:22 AM   #7 (permalink)
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This is it. Pretty simple.
This is the side view.

1.75 dia steel.
2.5" long
Bore completely through 7/16". This is for a 1" long 7/16 course thread bolt
Do approx a 3/4" dia recessed bored. Basically just large enough so a socket can fit over the bolt.
Outside dia on the left hand side is reduced to about 1.6"
After all the turning is done, the two red lines represent cuts. basically angle the back face, and then the bottom.
Blue piece is 3/8" thick and welded to the bottom.
The piece on the back is .25" disc (actually an oval) and retained to the machined round with a number of 10-32s.
It is also drilled and tapped for four 10-32s, in a square, for an item that will be attached to this.

Anyone able to guess what this is?
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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a nifty contraption to bolt an AR-15 lower to your workbench?
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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nope
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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some sort of swivel head mount?
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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SOme sort of stock adapter. No idea of application
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
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remember its round...

so guessing sterling/greese gun stock adapter
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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SOme sort of stock adapter. No idea of application
on the right path
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Citzen_Hawk View Post
remember its round...

so guessing sterling/greese gun stock adapter
nope
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Enfield, viewed from the other side. But hopefully the mind can picture it.

The blue part that gets welded on, for an AR/AK grip.
Will use an ACE folder for the actual stock
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Old 02-04-2010, 06:53 PM   #16 (permalink)
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hope it folds LEFT to stay away from teh bolt handle...
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Old 02-05-2010, 02:59 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Yes. ACE folding mech can be installed left or right.
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