am4x4 gets an AX10

[am4x4]

Thought I would post up some pics of my new toy. It's not that special yet but I have done some tricks to get it working a little better than stock. I have only had it on real rocks once so far but it seemed to work way better that my buddies stock rtr. To bad I forgot my camera that day. I will get some action shots when the rain stops

AX10 ARTR
Castle sidewinder esc
Integy 55T
Old ass futaba Tx and Rx
Weak old Futaba servo that can barely turn the wheels (soon to be upraded)
TCS 8cell split packs

Mirrored trans
Stock shocks with shorter/softer assocated springs+internal pen springs
Modded stock skid plate to inboard links at frame end
rear shocks and links moved outboard at axle end
All link/shock pivot balls replaced with Traxxas balls that allow more angle
Weighted and drilled wheels
All plastic nuts replaced with real hardware
TCS delron 4 link plates front and rear
TCS delron split pack axle mounts
Trimmed body
Lowered to 2 1/2" belly clearance
safety wired driveshafts to keep them from poping off

[am4x4]

more pics

[am4x4]

neked pics

[CJ-6]

Nice! I was gonna buy one of those but decided to go with the losi.

[am4x4]

I thought about waiting for the new losi but I am impatient and wanted it before KOH. I also like tinkering with things and where is the fun in buying something that doesn't need some tweaks here and there.

[sparky2]

Lookin good.............. Now go scratch up those diffs a bit

You went the opposite way I did for the shocks. You went wider and softer. I went inboard with stock springs to try and free up some flex (amplified torque twist though).

How is it working for you?

[am4x4]

Originally Posted by sparky2

Lookin good.............. Now go scratch up those diffs a bit

You went the opposite way I did for the shocks. You went wider and softer. I went inboard with stock springs to try and free up some flex (amplified torque twist though).

How is it working for you?

they are scratched up now, along with the skid plate, links, roof, ect.

The rear end set up seems to work really good, I don't have much to compare it to but I have not noticed any torque twist at all

Why would you want more flex than stock? I limited mine quite a bit. In addition to relocating the shocks I put springs inside which limit droop and I added 6mm of vacume hose on the shock shaft to limit compression. Too much flex is a bad thing, mine had 90 deg stock and I have it down to about 60 deg now.

[rcfreak]

what moter do u have is it a 55 turn

[am4x4]

Originally Posted by rcfreak

what moter do u have is it a 55 turn

yep, integy 55t lathe

[John82601]

Running a Sidewinder you should try it on 3s Lipo. Slow speed crawlability from the 55t plus wheelspeed. We love ours.

[sparky2]

Originally Posted by am4x4

they are scratched up now, along with the skid plate, links, roof, ect.

The rear end set up seems to work really good, I don't have much to compare it to but I have not noticed any torque twist at all

Why would you want more flex than stock? I limited mine quite a bit. In addition to relocating the shocks I put springs inside which limit droop and I added 6mm of vacume hose on the shock shaft to limit compression. Too much flex is a bad thing, mine had 90 deg stock and I have it down to about 60 deg now.

I guess I should clarify a little. I wasn't looking for more flex in terms of more angle. I was looking for easier flex within the desired range. Damned thing would tip over before rubbing the tires on the RTR truck body. I'm currently at around 70deg of free and smooth flex before hitting the fuel line bump stops. Before toying with it, it would allow you to force it way beyond that, but began to bind up, and the springs fought articulation so much that it flopped all the time.

At this point I think I have reached the limits of the stock springs. I will relocate them to a wider stance with softer springs. Hopefully that will curb some torque twist and maintain or better yet improve the action of the suspension some.

[fairlane_68]

Not that I need another mini-money pit ( I already have two T-Maxx's), but how much do those run?

[sparky2]

Cost - as much or as little as you like within reason.

A RTR that will keep the kids happy with just enough speed to do some bashing will run you around $240.

They go up from there as you get the ARTR or the kit version. (Do some searching to find out what best fits you) As said above the sky is the limit - if you have to have the best of everything, you could sink near $2K into one. A nicely capable rig with decent electronics, a few tires for different terrains, etc. - could be near $500 to $700.

Might also search other brands - they are similar in price range, but vary in how they get the job done.

[fairlane_68]

Originally Posted by sparky2

Cost - as much or as little as you like within reason.
A RTR that will keep the kids happy with just enough speed to do some bashing will run you around $240.

They go up from there as you get the ARTR or the kit version. (Do some searching to find out what best fits you) As said above the sky is the limit - if you have to have the best of everything, you could sink near $2K into one. A nicely capable rig with decent electronics, a few tires for different terrains, etc. - could be near $500 to $700.

Might also search other brands - they are similar in price range, but vary in how they get the job done.

That right there rules me out. I started out with a basic RTR T-Maxx, and went nuts with it when I was stationed in Korea. The only thing original on it now is the throttle servo. These little bastards are addictive fun. I can see myself getting the ARTR AX10, and trying to fit a nitro motor on it. I think it can be done...

[PJR]

Originally Posted by fairlane_68

That right there rules me out. I started out with a basic RTR T-Maxx, and went nuts with it when I was stationed in Korea. The only thing original on it now is the throttle servo. These little bastards are addictive fun. I can see myself getting the ARTR AX10, and trying to fit a nitro motor on it. I think it can be done...

But why.......

[fairlane_68]

Originally Posted by PJR

But why.......

Ah...but why not?

While I was overseas, alot of my time and effort went into making my T-Maxx a reliable crawler. And it worked. And I love the smell and sound of a nitro engine...

[am4x4]

Originally Posted by sparky2

I guess I should clarify a little. I wasn't looking for more flex in terms of more angle. I was looking for easier flex within the desired range. Damned thing would tip over before rubbing the tires on the RTR truck body. I'm currently at around 70deg of free and smooth flex before hitting the fuel line bump stops. Before toying with it, it would allow you to force it way beyond that, but began to bind up, and the springs fought articulation so much that it flopped all the time.

At this point I think I have reached the limits of the stock springs. I will relocate them to a wider stance with softer springs. Hopefully that will curb some torque twist and maintain or better yet improve the action of the suspension some.

The first thing I did was get rid of those stiff ass stock springs. I am using some shorter, softer springs that came with some associated shocks for my t-max. I guess you could say I have a semi droop setup, I have up and down travel from ride height. The only problem I had with moving the bottoms of the shocks out is the shock cap would bind on the frame. To fix this I cut the stock pivot ball off the shock cap and screwed a short link end on instead. when I did that mod it also allowed me to move the shock a little more outboard at the frame. I will try to get some pics up soon.

[am4x4]

here are some some pics of the updated upper shock mounting

[am4x4]

And finally some wheeling pics

[am4x4]

Last time I was out I took a tumble down an eight foot almost cliff and landed on the side of the right rear tire. When it hit it broke the rear 4 link plate and the rear axle housing.I had been wanting longer upper links anyway so instead of buying a new 4 link plate I cut the old one down a little and drilled new holes further back and further apart. To make up the additional link lenth I used some 1/4in spacers from the hardware store. moving the links apart at the axle allowed me to get rid on the factory spacers between the link end and the frame. I ended up with a 99mm upper link which is about 79% as long as my lowers. That would be about perfect in the 1:1 world so we will see how it plays out in 1:10