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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Recommend me a hydraulic handbrake
Ok so the car is kinda switching directions. I need a handbrake, I'm building a tarmac car, but its also gonna compete in Gymkhana competition. After my first one, I have realized the stock cable brake is not gonna cut it for this kinda shit. So who makes a good single mater cylinder handbrake thats competitively priced?
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[QUOTE=nahmus;10554695] this country is trying to childproof the world when they should be worldproofing their children.[/QUOTE] [QUOTE=SilverZuk;10606373]My wife doesn't go out, but if she did I would piss on her and kick dirt all over her before she left. [/QUOTE] |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Now just to figure out shipping to the states
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[QUOTE=nahmus;10554695] this country is trying to childproof the world when they should be worldproofing their children.[/QUOTE] [QUOTE=SilverZuk;10606373]My wife doesn't go out, but if she did I would piss on her and kick dirt all over her before she left. [/QUOTE] |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Member # 83040
Location: Duluth, MN
Posts: 114
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Here's the one we're using in #171, just finished our second season on it, still works great. We use a bungee cord as the parking brake, that's how little force it takes to lock up the rear:
http://www.compbrake.co.uk/index.php...productId=1050 Although I think there was a US distributor....but I'm not sure right now.
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'87 4Runner unTurbo, 35s, 4.3 numbchuxconversions.com and ziptierally.com |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Member # 76932
Location: Kathleen, GA
Posts: 58
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I built my own and it works great.
![]() Here it is plumbed ![]() One more showing the Bunjee E Brake retention device. can be found here but is a very large picture http://angryiron.com/Ford-Ranger-Ral...1378medium.jpg You have to plumb it inline with your rear brakes so I went ahead and added a proportioning valve at the same time.
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Shawn Smith, Angry Iron Customs Rally Racing, Custom Trucks, Military Gear and Hot Rods Last edited by Angry Iron Off Road; 12-23-2010 at 03:57 AM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I was thinking it would be real cheap to build your own;A toyota clutch master from pick and pull would be about $10,a bracket to hold it and a bar with a bicycle hand grip on it and a return spring...
edit:did you use a knife handle?is that for cutting the seat belt in an emergency?
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. . . . 4.3 vortec/tbi,yota axles/dual cases,40's, stauns,oba,4 linked,coilovers,zook tub [COLOR="blue"][SIZE="3"][FONT="Comic Sans MS"]NotQuiteRight Wheelers[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR] Last edited by blackrider; 12-23-2010 at 10:34 AM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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What master cylinder is that?
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[QUOTE=nahmus;10554695] this country is trying to childproof the world when they should be worldproofing their children.[/QUOTE] [QUOTE=SilverZuk;10606373]My wife doesn't go out, but if she did I would piss on her and kick dirt all over her before she left. [/QUOTE] |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Member # 76932
Location: Kathleen, GA
Posts: 58
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It is a Datson/Nissan master cylinder I forget the part number I think it was 15.00 or 25.00 new
I used the complete KA-Bar fighting knife, it is dulled and welded into place. You do not need a return spring. I think I have more pictures in my facebook album of the build.
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Shawn Smith, Angry Iron Customs Rally Racing, Custom Trucks, Military Gear and Hot Rods |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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How did you cap off the reservoir opening,Welded?
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. . . . 4.3 vortec/tbi,yota axles/dual cases,40's, stauns,oba,4 linked,coilovers,zook tub [COLOR="blue"][SIZE="3"][FONT="Comic Sans MS"]NotQuiteRight Wheelers[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR] Last edited by blackrider; 12-24-2010 at 12:25 PM. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Member # 76932
Location: Kathleen, GA
Posts: 58
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You use the resevior opening for the in coming fluid line. Remove the tank and dill the hole up and tap it for 1/8 pipe install a Pipe to inverted flare adapter. The fluid under normal operation then flows through the handbrake master cylinder like it is not even there. You will want to do a good bench bleed before installing the master cylinder also or otherwise it will take for ever to get a good bleed on your system.
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Shawn Smith, Angry Iron Customs Rally Racing, Custom Trucks, Military Gear and Hot Rods |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
Join Date: May 2001
Member # 4502
Location: SanLuisObispo, CA
Posts: 5,137
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Another option....
Check the Cutting and Hand Brake sections. Drop me a PM and I can prob get you a little better deal if you see something you are interested in.
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Click the sig for everything you need to build a tube car www.SynergySuspension.com Cool stuff for your buggy, Jeep, Dodge 2500/3500 www.4130Clothing.com
A unique apparel line geared for the off-road enthusiast |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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What size do you reccomnd for the mc bore?
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[QUOTE=nahmus;10554695] this country is trying to childproof the world when they should be worldproofing their children.[/QUOTE] [QUOTE=SilverZuk;10606373]My wife doesn't go out, but if she did I would piss on her and kick dirt all over her before she left. [/QUOTE] |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member # 85950
Location: Ridgecrest, CA
Posts: 131
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I use a CNC in my rallyX car. (Such as PolyPerformance sells) Be careful which you choose. A hydraulic handbrake is a stand-alone unit intended to work with it's own disc or drum system. If you want one in-line with your current brakes, use the staging brake.
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TJ Rubicon trail runner, Samurai crawler, XJ dirt-racer. |
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