Cisco's Shop

[cisco]

Originally Posted by MoabFab

Awesome shop build!! As a concrete guy and someone who has built a few chassis myself, I can tell you that you want to go for a flat floor. I have worked in the commercial concrete business all of my young life for a father that spent all of his old life doing the same thing. The problem with drainage is that you need to have an aggressive slope to get it to flow on its own. I would go as far as saying about an inch in ten feet. The reason being, your biggest enemy is surface friction. You do not want to have a floor with that much slope in your shop that you are going to be trying to build square rigs and things. The fact is, if you need to manually move the water in the least bit, you are best off getting the floor how you want it for everything else (FLAT) and getting a squeegee. The best finish to go for is a hard trowel finish which will give you a nice smooth (although it can be slick with oil or even grinding dust) surface, which will make washing down and pushing the water out much much much much much much much much much much easier than that of a broom finish. A broom finish will give you good grip which is why it is usually found outside of homes or buildings. Someone already mentioned saw cuts... They are a MUST for a project like this. Otherwise, every time you roll across a joint on a creeper or roll anything with small wheels, you are stuck. Hope this helps.

Great advice and thanks for the props. i am gonna try to make the floor as smooth as possible. I realize traction is an issue but I hate laying on rough concrete.

I am also going to put a sealer/glaze on it so oil and stuff won't stain and stick.

[North Shore Fab]

Originally Posted by MoabFab

Awesome shop build!! As a concrete guy and someone who has built a few chassis myself, I can tell you that you want to go for a flat floor. I have worked in the commercial concrete business all of my young life for a father that spent all of his old life doing the same thing. The problem with drainage is that you need to have an aggressive slope to get it to flow on its own. I would go as far as saying about an inch in ten feet. The reason being, your biggest enemy is surface friction. You do not want to have a floor with that much slope in your shop that you are going to be trying to build square rigs and things. The fact is, if you need to manually move the water in the least bit, you are best off getting the floor how you want it for everything else (FLAT) and getting a squeegee. The best finish to go for is a hard trowel finish which will give you a nice smooth (although it can be slick with oil or even grinding dust) surface, which will make washing down and pushing the water out much much much much much much much much much much easier than that of a broom finish. A broom finish will give you good grip which is why it is usually found outside of homes or buildings. Someone already mentioned saw cuts... They are a MUST for a project like this. Otherwise, every time you roll across a joint on a creeper or roll anything with small wheels, you are stuck. Hope this helps.

if your building cages or frames are you really going to be doing it on the floor? i have built two boat frames on a concrete floor and it was a fucking night mare. frame was 20x8 i ended up using a laser transit and shims to get it in all in the same plane.

[cisco]

Here's a mini update I forgot about and it'll show the amount of water i was dealing with this week.

So back several posts I wrote about how we tried to manhandle the trusses into place. It was awful and was a bad experience. we managed to get 2 set, break one, blow hernias and discs!

Well the first truss we set was so hard and we were so happy to have it up we forgot to center it!!! So i had to move it. well how does one do that after the boom truck left? The trusty off road vehicle with winch, of course!

Here are 3 shots of me using the winch to pull the truss







Here is a shot of Jr. playing in the mud that accumulated during the 8-10 inches we got.



He is a blurry up-to-date progress shot!

[MoabFab]

Originally Posted by North Shore Fab

if your building cages or frames are you really going to be doing it on the floor? i have built two boat frames on a concrete floor and it was a fucking night mare. frame was 20x8 i ended up using a laser transit and shims to get it in all in the same plane.

I haven't had any problem building chassis on the floor. Sure, it is not near as cool to build it on the floor as it is a multi-thousand dollar table, but I guess it all depends on what set up you have. Sure, it takes a little more time at first, but once you get things going it isn't too tough. It all depends on how your concrete is finished. Personally I used a Laser Screed because I had access to one, which makes your floors incredibly flat. As long as your joints don't separate and lift, your golden. It all depends on the size of joints that you have. In Vegas we don't have huge climate changes outside, especially with what is going on in your garage. If you keep your joints to a reasonable size (12x12 for indoor in my opinion and climate and 10x10 for outdoor) then you don't have to worry much about each floor panel twisting and going crazy. If you are building a boat, sure, it might suck, especially if your joints don't line up. All of my chassis have fit within my 12x12 panel on my floors though.. at least the parts that are your lower frame rails. The key is to go steal your mother or grandmothers gardening pad that they kneel on and your have a handy flower print knee pad to hang out on.
As for building cages, I have always built them in the rig and pulled them out to finish weld them. If you are going to mass build those you would use a jig anyways so it shouldn't matter what your floors are like... Work on dirt if you really want to I guess.

[cisco]

So Finally a real update. We had some additional purlions to put up and some end boards on the gables. These first 2 pics prove my wife isn't a girly girl! That is her up on the roof using the nailer.





And these 3 pics are the pics I have been waiting for! I went and picked up my metal on Friday. Today we got the first sheet in place! Just the first though. It was a pain to get it set because as much as I tried the building is about 3 inches out of square!

A little cut here, a tug there and all is good!



I equate this to the point in a 4x4 build were you finally get it back on all 4 tires. Just pure motivation!

[cisco]

Mini update just to show where I am currently. I have 10 of the 28 sheets up. This is taking awhile cause again its just me and my wife doing it.

Each sheet is 22'7" long. I am over killing it on screws ( or so it seems). The metal guy set me up to put 4 screws per purlion. With 12 purlions I am putting 48 screws per sheet!!! Seems like alot and that he found a good excuse to sell me more screws! but

Me on top


A shot of Jr. playing



A couple of underneath shots of the tin






I do have a question... My trusses as I have stated were in a tornado. I straightened and squared as best I could when putting them up BUT the are not perfect. They have a little bow here and little lean there.

I am not sure how big a deal it is. I have been all over the roof and at 210 lbs I am by far the heaviest thing that will ever be up there. We get less than 12 inches of snow annually. Last year we got a 8 inch snow and it set records.

The roof feels sturdy and I have it crossed braced. Just not sure if I am making a mistake or not??? Thoughts?

EDit: you can kinda see some of the bow in the above pics

[foley]

It'll be fine, you'll be surprised how much sturdier the building is with the skin on it.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

[North Shore Fab]

obviosuly a truss is strongest when it is straight up and down and square but if it has an inch or two lean from top to bottom. i wouldn't worry about it where you live. with cross bracing and sheeting you should be A OK.

why have you not put down some type of vapor barrier or even a thing insulation over the purlins.

[cisco]

Originally Posted by North Shore Fab

why have you not put down some type of vapor barrier or even a thing insulation over the purlins.

Well to be honest I debated thiks long and hard. I asked several people who have built house and are contractors. I got every answer under the sun.

I am most concerned about condensation and the roof dripping. EVERYONE I talked to asked if I was gonna heat it (meaning central heat/air). I said no but it would have a wood stove. They said then a vapor barrier is not needed.

NONE of the pole barns in this area have a vapor barrier.

IDK I might have the worst condensation problem ever. But I rolled the dice and went without.

IF and its a big IF, I end up insulating the ceiling I will just have to do it between the trusses. Time will tell but for now, as hard as it is to put up the sheet metal, I am glad I am not battling a vapor bearer too.

BUT I may live to regret my decision!

[NotAPoser]

A vapor barrier is not needed as long as you have plenty of airflow in the attic area. This can be accomplished in many ways, but I know that I am vented to entire peak of the roofline, used center vent soffet, and I am installing a fan on either side of the roof.

I have seen alot of people insulate their attic, and put the insulation up tight against the roof, essentially cutting off a lot of their airflow. When this happens, it rains inside of your house.

[donkeystompit]

This is my shop. I bought the metal, doors, and a few boards here and there. The rest is used. The building was given to me, just had to take it down. The trusses were a pain to work with but they worked out fine. I did the purlins and no vapor just like yours and it is fine with good venting.

This was it.

[Todd W]

Originally Posted by donkeystompit

This is my shop. I bought the metal, doors, and a few boards here and there. The rest is used. The building was given to me, just had to take it down. The trusses were the a pain to work with but they worked out fine. I did the purlins and no vapor just like yours and it is fine with good venting.

Shit, now that's a shop! Jealous

[cisco]

Originally Posted by donkeystompit

This is my shop. I bought the metal, doors, and a few boards here and there. The rest is used. The building was given to me, just had to take it down. The trusses were the a pain to work with but they worked out fine. I did the purlins and no vapor just like yours and it is fine with good venting.

This was it.

When you get a chance can I get some pics of how you did your venting? at the peak? at the eave?

[shiftrider66]

Complete derail of your shop build.

Do you have any more pics or information on this? Trailer/tent-trailer combo it appears. I've been thinking about doing the same thing. I looked for another post about it but found nothing. Thanks.

[Pt_Ranger_V8]

You must be gay I don't see a trailer.

[cisco]

Originally Posted by shiftrider66

Complete derail of your shop build.

Do you have any more pics or information on this? Trailer/tent-trailer combo it appears. I've been thinking about doing the same thing. I looked for another post about it but found nothing. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Pt_Ranger_V8

You must be gay I don't see a trailer.

Laughing my ass off!

Here is a link to a local board with more pics.

http://www.arkansascrawlers.com/main...ad.php?t=13202

Feel free to PM me questions

[donkeystompit]

This is how I did mine. I still have a couple stacks of plywood from tearing down the old building so I used plywood and used these vents from lowes. I think they may be crawlspace vents. Can't remember. The ridge is vented. If I had not had the plywood, I would have just used vinyl soffits.

[cisco]

The roof is done! Boy it feels real good too!

I am actually about 50 screws short but all the metal is up and the ridge cap is on. I still gotta do gutters and stuff but the hard part is over.

At this point i am $3654.32 in to this building. I don't think that's too bad!

to the pics

Me putting in the last screw



ridge cap



ridge cap



from underneath

[kevn]

Your going to have an awsome shop when your finished. I like the front entrance of your house and would try to duplicate that on the front of the garage. Are you planing on pouring concrete out under the porch too?

I also agree about having as flat a floor as possible. And add a drain It will make everything easier.

[cisco]

Do you guys have ANY idea how good this picture makes me feel? I mean its supposed to storm tonight, my top is off the jeep. Leaving my PRP Daily Drivers exposed to the rain.

AND i do not have to worry about it at all!

I have only waited since 1997 to be able to do this!

[Panthers65]

[North Shore Fab]

i love the "porch" you have will the way you did the over hang. building adjacent to mine has a steep roof and shitty gutters so where i have to park i get poured on in the rain and then to open my shop door im getting soaked. would love to be able to park on the porch or leave the shop door open in the rain and not get wet inside

[cisco]

Originally Posted by North Shore Fab

i love the "porch" you have will the way you did the over hang. building adjacent to mine has a steep roof and shitty gutters so where i have to park i get poured on in the rain and then to open my shop door im getting soaked. would love to be able to park on the porch or leave the shop door open in the rain and not get wet inside

These were the exact decisions to adding the porch. Cost wise woulda been the same to go ahead and do a 40x40. But the porch gives it a huge open feel like a pavilion. It will be a great place to gather, have a drink, eat, etc.

[Todd W]

Looking good

[PHATIM]

Jealous... makes me want to move from Socal