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Old 03-31-2013, 05:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I need the baddest 7/8 Drill bit ever !

So long story short I'm drilling through big rig wrecker frame and the current shit is junk after one hole.. tried lube diff speeds it just keeps destroying bits.. I need a stupid hard stupid sharp 7/8 Drill bit where can I get some ??
We have a frame drill but I can only get that one one hole the rest I have to do by hand with an air drill... Ive done 2 trucks and have 2+ trucks left to go.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What you need is a tapered reamer.

Drill a 1/4 inch pilot hole then ream to 7/8

The one's that look like this, but from a reputable company:

7 8" Construction Taper Reamer Left Helix Right Hand Cut | eBay
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Lube is your friend with the tapered reamer, slow speed, lots of torque and make fawking sure there's nothing to hit behind the frame or you'll bust the reamer real good.

Follow my advice and you'll go through triple big-rig frames like butter.

Last edited by xmptsunami; 03-31-2013 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ever think about using a hole saw? Carbide tipped even?

Drill bits don't work to well drilling thin material. When they break out they always seem to grab unless they are spinning at some insane speed.

Or use a reamer as previously suggested.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Reamer wont work all the wiring air lines and hyrdo hoses are bundled there and not enough room for the reamer to go through..

Did I mention the frame is double wall even triple wall in some spots where im drilling..
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by stock 87:17135170
Ever think about using a hole saw? Carbide tipped even?

Drill bits don't work to well drilling thin material. When they break out they always seem to grab unless they are spinning at some insane speed.

Or use a reamer as previously suggested.
This... if you enjoy wasting your time.
Reamer with little pressure lots of speed and plenty of lube. Let the reamer do the work and you'll never use a large bit again
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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mag drill with one of these https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...ed=0CHwQ8wIwBQ
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Reamer wont work all the wiring air lines and hyrdo hoses are bundled there and not enough room for the reamer to go through..

Did I mention the frame is double wall even triple wall in some spots where im drilling..
The speed and ease of a reamer will easily compensate for all the time it takes to cut a few tie-wraps or unbolt a few p-clamps.

Seems like you'd be risking hitting all that crap with almost any type of hole making process.

Take my advice or leave it, as I said, reamers will eat triple frames all day long. If there is something unmovable and you really can't use a reamer, then good luck to ya, I have no advice to give.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I'd use a mag drill and a carbide hole saw. I just drilled some 7/8 holes in 1" plate for shackle mounts and it drilled the holes like a boss.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Another vote for Mag drill + 7/8" annular cutter
7/8" Dia x 1" DOC M2 HSS Rotabroach Annular Cutter | Fastenal

/thread
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Another vote for Mag drill + 7/8" annular cutter
7/8" Dia x 1" DOC M2 HSS Rotabroach Annular Cutter | Fastenal

/thread
Agree, But assuming that isn't possible for the OP. Although a day rental on one of them wouldn't be to much.

I normally use these for heavy truck frames:
RotaCut Sheet Metal Hole Cutters

Although I do see that they aren't offered in 7/8". I also use these:
RotaCut Sheet Metal Hole Cutters

Should be able to get through at least one layer of the frame in each pass then just stop pull it out and clear the slug and go at it again. I've done it before.

Most of the time I use all of these in cordless drills, They cut great and you will never want to use a twist bit again. I can go through a frame faster with these in a cordless drill than with a twist bit in a frame drill. I've only shattered one of them, And that was while drilling half through a weld (It caught the weld pretty hard).
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:42 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I have used solid carbide drill bits before and they will cut anything like butter. I have spent hours trying to drill stuff then I found a solid carbide bit and its crazy how well they cut. But a 7/8 one would probably be stupid expensive. Otherwise get good at sharpening drill bits.
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Do they sell a 7/8" concrete bit? I know they cut spring steel with a pilot hole like butter.

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Old 04-01-2013, 06:27 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Clean the frame to bare rust free metal(grinder), 3/8" pilot hole then your properly sharpened 7/8" drill. Drill bits dont like much rust.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:37 PM   #15 (permalink)
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7/8 annular cutter
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Old 04-01-2013, 03:09 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I feel your pain I sure hope this job was bid high enough unless it is a in house job.

I can read so I understand the clearance issue with using a Mag Drill .Steel Max has a pretty compact one.

What are you doing that you need to drill the holes??

Can anyone that works with you sharpen drill bits?? have at least two to trade off.

Can you slow your air drill slow enough for a bit that big.
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Old 04-01-2013, 03:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I had same job at our shop for Wrecker recall,couldn't find my 7/8" reamer so I drilled 1/4" then 1/2" then 7/8" brand new drill bit with ingersol air gear reduction drill,about 8 hours,recall allows 10 hours I think.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:22 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Just get a carbide bit and drill it in 3 minutes. Use oil.
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:06 PM   #19 (permalink)
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A Hougen HMD 115 is less than 7" tall and ~$750:

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Old 04-01-2013, 05:10 PM   #20 (permalink)
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A Hougen HMD 115 is less than 7" tall and ~$750:

How's this compare to the larger, and 2-3x priced Milwaukee ?
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:32 PM   #21 (permalink)
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How's this compare to the larger, and 2-3x priced Milwaukee ?
We have one at work. It's only 1" or so DOC, limited in how large a diameter you can drill, and normal cutters won't work in it. Works great though. Has plenty of power to cut in any size that bits are available. Weighs much less than a full size unit.
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:57 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Agree, But assuming that isn't possible for the OP. Although a day rental on one of them wouldn't be to much.

I normally use these for heavy truck frames:
RotaCut Sheet Metal Hole Cutters

Although I do see that they aren't offered in 7/8". I also use these:
RotaCut Sheet Metal Hole Cutters

Should be able to get through at least one layer of the frame in each pass then just stop pull it out and clear the slug and go at it again. I've done it before.

Most of the time I use all of these in cordless drills, They cut great and you will never want to use a twist bit again. I can go through a frame faster with these in a cordless drill than with a twist bit in a frame drill. I've only shattered one of them, And that was while drilling half through a weld (It caught the weld pretty hard).
X2 on these cut great through almost and steel
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:20 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I have shortened and stretched many trucks, replaced lots of frame rails, installed bodys and telma's if you can fit a drill bit you can use a tapered reamer. Car reamers are shorter than bridge reamers, by almost half the length for the same size hole. Its the best tool for the job. Move what may be in the way behind the hole or slide a piece of metal behind the hole.
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:47 PM   #24 (permalink)
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How's this compare to the larger, and 2-3x priced Milwaukee ?
The 115 is a pretty specialized piece of kit but the Milwaukee mag drills are POFS compared to a Hougen or CSUnitec with comparable specs.
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Old 04-04-2013, 11:38 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Carbide tipped hole cutters will cut a lot of holes in 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" thick steel as most on here need for there plates, frames, etc. You can run them in a little old 3/8" drill or they will fit in a magpress too.

Here's our link in the tool & supply section....
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tools...ount-code.html
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