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Gear Head Drill Press

1K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  Black Sabbath 
#1 ·
Needed to use my drill press and it reminded me why I hate hate hate using this thing so very much. It's a crapsmen floor standing, biggest they sell/sold around 12 or so years ago... I got it new, and it's always had a slight wobble and annoys me to no end not being able to make precise holes exactly where I want, and exactly the right size.

I have a Mill but no power to it yet, and I'm still not 100% convinced going with a mill instead of a drill and giving up the drill 100% is the right answer, so I have some questions. I think for MOST people the drill is fine I'm just REALLY picky when I want to fab stuff I hate 'fixing' or 're-doing' due to machine being off even if very little.

For reference of how specific/picky I am... I had the HF Bandsaw and while after I adjusted, tweaked etc, it worked rather good I got tired of having to sand and make things perfect so I ordered a Floor Standing Kama (link) bandsaw, and I love it, and how precise it is, every time, exactly what I want 'quality-wise' in a drill press (or mill for that matter if I go that route).

I do not want a 'tool project' I want to buy it, maybe have to whipe it down, clean it up as-in with cleaner not replace parts, and 'use it', maybe replace the chuck or add some additional but that's the extent of 'project' I'm looking for. I can fit a 'large' drill press, I just can't fit one with a huge mill-size table, or 3' movement back/forth in the head.

I would like to be able to make some tractor implements so I will be drilling in 1/2" mild steel and potentially up to 1 - 1.25" holes. With that said, 5" throat depth won't cut it.

I'd like to buy it and not worry about it again for my life ;) in terms of replacing/upgrading.

I have a phase converter so it can be 3ph or single, although i'm not sure the power loss on 3ph would be worth spending the $$ unless I up my phase converter?

- What is the main downfall of using a mill for a drill? I did a bunch of searching on the google and it seems some people say just get a mill, and others say no no no you need a good precision drill if holes are what you're after.

- If I look at mills are there any 'table top' that would work for dedicated drilling and be considered 'precision drill press' quality? I don't have room for a full-size mill dedicated to drilling at this time, and if I go with another mill I can use the big mill for big stuff, and table top for small stuff.

- Can you use annular cutters in a precision drill?
-- At the very-least I want to use RotaCut (11085 Master Kit/ 11086 Master Kit) without chatter so that it doesn't bust the teeth off. I don't trust using my current drill press and these lasting.

- What brand precision drill are high quality, easy to find? Arboga? DoAll? PowerMatic?
-- I don't mind buying used, and probably can't afford a new precision high quality unit.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
#3 · (Edited)
Get a mill and be done. They can do everything a drill press can and more. IMO those drills you posted links of are junk. Round column anything suck.

Find a Bridgeport, wells index,Cincinnati mill. Once you buy one you'll wonder what you did without it. I spent 2500 for a decent Bridgeport I have not regretted it ever. Do not buy a tabletop, you'll end up buying a full size later. It's one of those spend a little more now or spend a lot more because your buying another piece of equipment. Also plan on a dro they save tons of time and eliminate screwups.

I use annular cutters all the time in my Bridgeport.
 
#4 ·
I have a mill just not usable, no power... yet. Probably 4-8 weeks out depending how fast I can run electrical :flipoff2:

Are you saying I won't regret 100% eliminating a drill press and only using the mill? I'd really love to sell the drill press and use the $$ for the annular and other misc. mill tooling :smokin: also get me a chunk of space to roll a welder out of the way too, etc...
 
#6 ·
LOL.

I need to get a vise, I have a couple abused and/or shitty ones, I have a DRO I just cleaned up after sitting in storage and getting mouse shit all over it :barf:

I have a Lagun Republic 2032 S (like this one) if I recall my power x-axis motor is dead. I only used/tested it when it was delivered to make sure phase converter, and it worked and it's sat now waiting for me to wire it all up.

I think I'm going to go out and get some pics/inventory of what I have for it (not much of anything) so I can at-least use it to drill once I get power and the rotary phase converter setup. Then I'll go from there and decide if I want/need my drill press or another drill station. :smokin:
 
#7 ·
Yeah this is a no brainer. A 20 amp 220 circuit should be enough for phase converter and mill. Get it going and you'll say fuck the drill presses:

Minimum tooling:

Jacobs chuck
Vise
Parallels
Edge finder
Set of setscrew endmill holders
A set of toe clamps(I have at least two)

Next bunch of tools:

Sarrett last word indicator
Singe point boring head
Facemill
Interapid .0001 indicator
Set of over under reamers
Machinist jacks

Tooling will cost as much or more than mill. Once you have a good collection with some good imagination you can do just about anything.
 
#9 ·
Cool starting point / info. :smokin: I have a couple of the suggested books to learn on, and I do have some tooling. I took pics, and will get them posted later after the kids go to sleep.


A bridgeport type mill will do just about everything you could ask for in standard type garage fab work. That said there are some down sides. Want to pop a quick hole in a piece of wood now you have to oil the head and ways, travel the table to a clear spot possibly swap from an end mill over to a drill chuck, drill your hole, and then clean up all the wood shavings off the table and ways. Since you already have both I would certainly keep both, the mill for precision work or milling, and the drill press for quick and dirty work. Now if you did have the space and money something like the second drill you linked, or larger, would be a sweet addition for the 1/2" plus sized holes your looking at as bridgeports aren't really designed for heavy drilling. IRC the power down feed is officially rated for 3/8". You can certainly drill larger feeding by hand, but you still do have to be somewhat conscious of what your doing.
Great point, and one I over looked completely. Exactly why I started this thread!! :)
All my wood working stuff is in another location already so that would make most sense to keep the drill press with that for that usage once I'm setup on the mill.
 
#8 ·
A bridgeport type mill will do just about everything you could ask for in standard type garage fab work. That said there are some down sides. Want to pop a quick hole in a piece of wood now you have to oil the head and ways, travel the table to a clear spot possibly swap from an end mill over to a drill chuck, drill your hole, and then clean up all the wood shavings off the table and ways. Since you already have both I would certainly keep both, the mill for precision work or milling, and the drill press for quick and dirty work. Now if you did have the space and money something like the second drill you linked, or larger, would be a sweet addition for the 1/2" plus sized holes your looking at as bridgeports aren't really designed for heavy drilling. IRC the power down feed is officially rated for 3/8". You can certainly drill larger feeding by hand, but you still do have to be somewhat conscious of what your doing.
 
#10 ·
possibly swap from an end mill over to a drill chuck, drill your hole,
All my drill bits go in a collet. The drill chucks take up to much Z travel not to mention less than impressed with arbors that get abused over time.

I don't have a set of bits turned down to a couple common sizes yet, but I have found most will fit in my R8 collets. sometime with a little help from the deadblow.

As soon as I get the other ER40 collet chuck down for the lathe, the mill will be next.
 
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