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Old 06-18-2004, 08:42 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Tubing Notchers...

What are you guys using to notch your tubing?

Drill Motor/Hole Saw Jig?

Metal Lathe?
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Old 06-18-2004, 03:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Cheapo HF notcher. works fine for my needs. runs on the drill press.
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Old 06-18-2004, 03:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 06-19-2004, 01:24 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I got this one:
http://www.pro-tools.com/hsn500.htm

but should have spent the extra chedder and got this one
http://www.pro-tools.com/hsn501i.htm

I find myself limited on angles with mine, and think that the extra adjustability would ease some fab jobs and require less grinder work.
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Old 06-19-2004, 02:29 AM   #5 (permalink)
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i had the harbor freight notcher, the bolts stripped out. i jammed bigger bolts in but i ended up getting an hsn 500 pro tools version for $90 on ebay. i like it a lot better.
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Old 06-19-2004, 05:51 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Ive got the JD2 model from VanSant Enterprises nice high quality cnc machined notcher. I bought a HF model and it was cheap made and didn't notch the tubing on center, you get what you pay for.
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Old 06-19-2004, 01:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Made my own.... does any angle .....
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Old 06-19-2004, 09:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THURENfab.
Made my own.... does any angle .....

now THAT is kick ass. How does the tube clamp work??
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Old 06-19-2004, 10:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Chop saw
Grinder
Plasma
HF notcher

In that order. HF is used only for near 90s and "highly visible" joints. 2 little 45s on the chop saw and a touch up with the grinder is faster for most, but not as good "fit-up".
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Old 06-19-2004, 10:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Grinder... might be slow but you can make perfect fit once you get good at it. I use a hole saw to get the basic shape then grind to the best fit fish mouth.
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Old 06-20-2004, 03:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Does any angle you can imagine
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Old 06-21-2004, 08:57 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies.

We use patterns developed in Autocad and printed out to be wrapped around the pipe at the shipyard I work at. The line is transferred from the pattern, then cut with a torch. Thats on heavy pipe though...

I guess theres no reason why you cant do the same and use a torch on tubing. Pbly spend more time cleaning it up than just cutting the whole fishmouth with a hard disk on the mini grinder though. Jeez, I wish I could justify a plasma!
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Old 06-22-2004, 09:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctor_cad
Thanks for the replies.

We use patterns developed in Autocad and printed out to be wrapped around the pipe at the shipyard I work at. The line is transferred from the pattern, then cut with a torch. Thats on heavy pipe though...

I guess theres no reason why you cant do the same and use a torch on tubing. Pbly spend more time cleaning it up than just cutting the whole fishmouth with a hard disk on the mini grinder though. Jeez, I wish I could justify a plasma!
Like this?
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Old 06-22-2004, 10:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Same idea, yep. I just draw up the members as solids so they run past the intersection point, and use a boolean subtraction.

1st Step:
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Old 06-22-2004, 10:03 PM   #15 (permalink)
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2nd Step:
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Old 06-22-2004, 10:05 PM   #16 (permalink)
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3rd Step: Subdivide perimeter into equal parts, and extend lines to cutting profile.
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Old 06-22-2004, 10:07 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Final Step: Take projected lines off tube and lay them out on a flat surface. This forms the pattern... Notice this tube was intersected at a 15* angle. Concept works for any angle.
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Old 06-23-2004, 09:52 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctor_cad
now THAT is kick ass. How does the tube clamp work??

I think you can see it from this pic.... I kinda just threw this together to see how it worked before the final design .... It works great and holds the tube really tight.... I just did some notches that were in the middle of a bend and they were soooooo easy compared to my ol' HF POS......
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Old 06-27-2004, 09:57 PM   #19 (permalink)
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We use the JD2 notcher, and I love it. I woulda bought the pro tools, but I can get the JD2 for 100$. Those are the best notchers, the joint jigger, and the hf one suck. Don't settle for anything less.
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Old 06-28-2004, 08:52 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I have the HF notcher - and personally, it sucks. Gonna have to look into modifying it to fix as many of the problems as I possibly can, because as it stands right now - I hate using it.
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Old 06-28-2004, 09:17 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I use the HF notcher and Greenlee Holesaws. It's a love/hate relationship. It's easier to make saddles than with the chopsaw and grinder but I have sprained and almost broken my wrist several times with it. The guide for the shaft has wallowed out causing the holesaw to catch and fling my skinny ass around.

On my next project it will be mounted to the drill press.
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Old 06-28-2004, 03:05 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I thought there would be priblems catching with the hole saws. They are grabby on flat plate, cant imagine on tubing... I guess the hot setup is to get a plasma and use some sort of comp. generated template. OR, fab up a sweet ass setup like THURENfab.
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Old 06-28-2004, 03:09 PM   #23 (permalink)
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The trick to making a nice cut and making your holesaw last forever, is the slow the drill down, and move a a nice constant pace. Use cutting oil and keep the metal cool. This way, the holesaw never catches on the metal.
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Old 06-28-2004, 05:10 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Here's the ultimate notcher for perfect coping but way too pricey for me. It shouldn't be too bad to build one though.

Mittler's site
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Old 06-30-2004, 07:06 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Could do the same thing as that Mittler thing with a lathe and a creative tool rest/tube clamp

Last edited by doctor_cad; 06-30-2004 at 07:11 PM.
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