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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Member # 13028
Location: So.S.F., CA
Posts: 3,124
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Tube bending legs in phase, how do you do it?
I've been bending tube with a JD2 M3 bender for at least 12 years. The first couple years were a pain trying to bend two parallel legs in phase, such as a main hoop. Exagerating, the two down legs always looked like they were walking.
My Model 3 bender dies have always been somewhat loose in the support arms and with a heavy 1.75" x 180* die and 12 foot of stick it like to sag. Even with a roller stand and a good eye it's tough to get the legs in phase. After a couple years of frustrating with out of phase legs I finally came up with an idea that works so well I could guarantee the legs to be in phase by .1*, (Yes, that's one tenth of a degree). Around the time I bought my bender I also bought a Smart Level, a digital level originally made for contracting work. A simple digital head unit clips into varying lengths levels. I only bought the head unit thinking I would buy a shorty level base for it later, but they stopped making them this way. I took an old C-clamp and welded some angle to the anvils. Then some fence tabs to fixture the head unit. I ended up with this. Now when I bend a hoop, I go ahead and bend one leg, while pressure is on the dies I set the level on the tube and tap it to zero, then cinch it up. The C-clamp needs to be in a place where it will not run into the dies or need to be removed to pull the tube from the bender. After the first leg is finished I gently flip the tube for the other bend. Find my start point and twist the tube until I hit zero. It's a good idea to put pressure on the dies while finding zero as a relaxed die set at zero will net as much as a half degree out of phase, big deal but with long legs you can be of your mark by alot. Next to the bender this digital level has been worth it's weight in gold, setting steering geometery, pinion angles and even leveling picture frames around the house. What do others do besides eye-balling legs in phase?
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2000
Member # 2569
Location: SANTA CLARA CA 95050
Posts: 3,630
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yeah i guess that way works......
![]() i usually bend one 90.........flip it a round line up the mark..snug it up good...stand back and get the first leg level with the die, well not level acually a butthair under because i have found the tubing twists a tiny bit when ya bend ..no matter what degree the ground is etc.....the second leg will be level will the first....
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#4 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2001
Member # 7452
Location: Florissant, CO
Posts: 237
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I've been having the same problem. It seems no matter how careful I am the legs are always off. I'll have to try your method. I have a Smart Level head unit too they are great.
Does the bender have to be level to do what you are saying? I'm having a hard time picturing it. I can't really level mine very easily since it is hydraulic and the stand is on casters. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Member # 14644
Location: Magnolia, Texas
Posts: 2,019
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you need to use the smart level and match it with the DIE with pressure on it. If your die rotates down a bit(mine does) then you need to set your tube accordingly. Match the angle of the die to the angle of the first bent leg.
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1986.5 Nissan crawler - dual cases, one tons, 42's... 2003 SV650 1997 F350 DRW PSD |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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I have to admit - my manual JD2 gives me fits sometimes too. I have leveled the bender by way of leveling the stand, but the "sloppyness" of the bender and die can still cause headaches with the process. I keep hoping more practice will show me the way to mastering it
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>David > 4x4Spot.com >It only hurts the first time you agree with me... >"A little nonsense now and then is cherished by the wisest men." |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Member # 19763
Location: MN
Posts: 1,548
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You need to make sure the die is level. Checking the stand is nice, however, it is best to go straight to the source.
The best way to do this is to place a tube in the bender and apply a little pressure, now place a level on the tube. Should be level. Now bend the tube 90 degrees and before releasing from the bender check to see if the end of tube that rotates is level. Now when you use a level on the next bend it means something.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2001
Member # 7452
Location: Florissant, CO
Posts: 237
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I'm pretty sure the Smart level thing only works with the bender level so I guess that won't work for me.
I'll try the seam trick. I tried making a mark down the entire length of the tube and it still came out off. Maybe my line wasn't quite straight. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Member # 14644
Location: Magnolia, Texas
Posts: 2,019
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Quote:
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1986.5 Nissan crawler - dual cases, one tons, 42's... 2003 SV650 1997 F350 DRW PSD |
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#11 (permalink) |
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H M F
Join Date: Dec 2001
Member # 8758
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 3,903
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I do mine the same way that Ryan explained. I use a mobile hydraulic homemade bender, and have used it in a level shop, out on crooked cobblestone, and even in the sand at a friends house. Always comes out right. I have used the cheapo Harbor Freight magnetic angle finder, but I've grown tired of waiting for the pendulum to stop on the mark, so I ordered the Smart Tool and magnet attatchment yesterday. Got it from this place http://www.speedpartz.com/smarttoolmagneticbracket.htm
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Member # 8211
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,253
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I use a cheap weighted magnetic protractor for the same thing. Never woried about getting the die level, just fine it's angle and make the tube match. Works fine for me...
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