Steel building INTERIOR siding

[desertoy]

I am just finishing up my shop (30x40 steel building) and I am struggeling with what to use for interior siding. The reason I want this is because the building is insulated and though the insulation is pretty durable, it won't hold up to the abuse of a welding /fabricating shop. I have already framed the lower 8ft of the building all the way aroung and installed the electrical as one would a wood framed building. When I first planned this project I was going to use ply wood or press board for interior siding but now that it is time to buy it I am finding that it is a little too expensive. The only affordable option that I see right now is to drywall it without taping it. I have herd of using metal sheeting but have not been able to find pricing.
Anyone have a link to prices on metal interior siding or have any better suggestions.

[bignissan]

no link, but why not just usethe corregated metal like the outside? Are you going to insulate any?

[hoehand]

Corrugated tin works great, but the price adds up relatively quickly. It really brightens up the area, and is very durable.

[Toyota_Jim]

60x80 building of mine, 60x60 is the shop part. 14 foot ceiling. I put 5/8" plywood on it all but the bottom 4 feet. On that I put silver barn tin, to help for fire protection, no sprarks on wood. and 2 if i spray it out it isn't going to swell up like wood. I painted each sheet of plywood before I put it up, than painted them white again once hung.

[gp_frk]

Desert toy,

If your having the building done as a packaged deal ask the mfg for some samples of "liner panel" they sell specific panel for this aplication that laps over the other and forms a smooth interior wall.(a steel version of a tongue and groove) This may not suit your needs as price may kill the deal but it looks damn slick.
If you have any other questions you can drop me a PM or email at jeep_freek@hotmail.

I'm no expert but I've been selling steel building accessories for about 7 years now. You'll probably end up w/ our vents on your roof

[desertoy]

Originally Posted by gp_frk

Desert toy,

If your having the building done as a packaged deal ask the mfg for some samples of "liner panel" they sell specific panel for this aplication that laps over the other and forms a smooth interior wall.(a steel version of a tongue and groove) This may not suit your needs as price may kill the deal but it looks damn slick.
If you have any other questions you can drop me a PM or email at jeep_freek@hotmail.

I'm no expert but I've been selling steel building accessories for about 7 years now. You'll probably end up w/ our vents on your roof

The building is already assembled. I didn't even think to ask about interior sideing when I spec'd it.

[ironpig70]

i know its spendy but in your shop if you have an area that will be dedicated to welding you may want to use wonder board/durock its concrete dry wall its used on floors and walls before you tile. this is the big problem i see with steel buildings if i wanted to spend all my money and time on framing i would have went with wood.

[woody99]

why not use just gypsum board. fireproof, cheap, and can be put in place with some high strength liquid nails or polyeurothane (sp?) adhesive.

[tsm1mt]

After insulating my pole building, I put up 5/8" fire-code drywall and had a "fire tape" mud n' tape job done.

I did it for the fire protection. Insulation likes to catch fire, and I went with 3" of Corbond spray insulation.. and it's highly toxic when it burns.

[desertoy]

Originally Posted by woody99

why not use just gypsum board. fireproof, cheap, and can be put in place with some high strength liquid nails or polyeurothane (sp?) adhesive.

What is gypsumboard? Where do I find it?

[tsm1mt]

Originally Posted by desertoy

What is gypsumboard? Where do I find it?

IIRC, that's the "general" term for what most folks call Sheetrock(tm).

[lefthand]

Originally Posted by tsm1mt

IIRC, that's the "general" term for what most folks call Sheetrock(tm).

yup, the fire-rated stuff is 5/8" thick. should be marked as "type x". gives an approximate 1-hour fire rating. you can also get "type x" in "greenboard". that's a moisture resistant variety. commonly used in apartment buildings in wet areas that are also located on a common party wall.

it's also *kind of* expensive now. prices typically go up in summer, add in the re-construction efforts overseas and the demand exceeds supply. (or so they say.)

[tsm1mt]

Originally Posted by lefthand

yup, the fire-rated stuff is 5/8" thick. should be marked as "type x". gives an approximate 1-hour fire rating. you can also get "type x" in "greenboard". that's a moisture resistant variety. commonly used in apartment buildings in wet areas that are also located on a common party wall.

it's also *kind of* expensive now. prices typically go up in summer, add in the re-construction efforts overseas and the demand exceeds supply. (or so they say.)

Last fall I paid $8-something each for 4'x12'x5/8" gypsum board/Sheetrock for my shop. Bought 45 to cover my 34x28x10 pole building.

Last time I was at HD, I noticed they were around $9 each.. a $45 difference on my shop.

[Flatfenderman]

Here is a pic of mine (again)..It's a 24X30 steel building. I just framed the inside with steel studs and sheet rocked it. I used the corrigated tin (2'X8'= $7.25 ea.) over the rock for fire safety.

Flatty

[lefthand]

Originally Posted by tsm1mt

Last fall I paid $8-something each for 4'x12'x5/8" gypsum board/Sheetrock for my shop. Bought 45 to cover my 34x28x10 pole building.

Last time I was at HD, I noticed they were around $9 each.. a $45 difference on my shop.

it was about $7 here last year and was up around $12 earlier this spring. i haven't checked lately, but you're number sounds fair as lumber prices are also beginning to fall (slowly).

[Air Ride]

I ran 1/2" cdx on the first 4 feet and dry wall up from there with no tape. At the time I got 4x8 sheets of drywall for $2.99 and home depot.

[James_Fendley]

I used steel liner panel from the metal building company. It is 7.5' high. It goes to the first girt. I also went with the low girt to make the wall stronger and give somewhere to mount electric boxes and air lines. The liner panel added about $1000.00 to the cost of the building.

James

[desertoy]

Originally Posted by James_Fendley

I used steel liner panel from the metal building company. It is 7.5' high. It goes to the first girt. I also went with the low girt to make the wall stronger and give somewhere to mount electric boxes and air lines. The liner panel added about $1000.00 to the cost of the building.

James

That is what I should have done. $1000 was doable when I built it, but I'm back to being poor now.

[woody99]

Originally Posted by Flatfenderman

Here is a pic of mine (again)..It's a 24X30 steel building. I just framed the inside with steel studs and sheet rocked it. I used the corrigated tin (2'X8'= $7.25 ea.) over the rock for fire safety.

Flatty

Nice Shop. Did you do anything special to your floor. Looks shiny.

[haystax]

We have the same tin as the exterior on the bottom 4 feet of the interior walls and then I am in the process of hanging some white laminated plastic type paneling to protect the insulation from bird damage. I forget the pricing but it sure brightens up a dirty 25 year old shop. I am really impressed with the way it looks and you can't beleive the difference in the available light when the old sooty insulation is covered up. Now if I could find an easy way to fix the exterior where my dumbass employees ran into the door openings.

[Flatfenderman]

Originally Posted by woody99

Nice Shop. Did you do anything special to your floor. Looks shiny.

I had just cleaned it when the pic was taken and it was a bit damp. The guy that finished the floor did a great job with one of those big power trowell things. It has a very smooth finish, oil just sits on top. I got lucky with it I guess, but for 3K it should be nice!