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Old 07-03-2004, 06:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Parts Washers

I hate cleaning parts! spent most of this morning cleaning instead of putting things back togather so who has a good parts washer they made themselvs? what type pump and where did you get it? and where do youi get solvent, how mush do you need, and what type? Or is it better to just buy one?
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Old 07-03-2004, 07:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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old fuel pump or windhield washer pump and a old kitchen sink works good...
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Old 07-03-2004, 07:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Bought this one at the local hardware store for $60:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=7340

As for solvent, I just picked up some heavy duty cleaner fluid stuff with a degreaser (dunno the name, was in same section as the parts washer)

But I just dumped in a gallon of the solvent and filled the rest of the tub with water. Very good investment for a garage, makes cleaning stuff a snap...

-dan



oh and be sure to pick up a variety of brushes, and wearing heavy duty latex gloves is always a good idea...
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Old 07-03-2004, 08:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I got the harbor freight one like in the post above and it works awesome. You can buy parts cleaner fluid at the stor but it is pretty expensive so i used half parts cleaner and the other half is old karasine(sp?) i had. Works awesome and alot easier and cheaper than wasting break cleaner on alot of stuff.
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Old 07-03-2004, 08:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971_CJ5
Bought this one at the local hardware store for $60:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=7340

As for solvent, I just picked up some heavy duty cleaner fluid stuff with a degreaser (dunno the name, was in same section as the parts washer)

But I just dumped in a gallon of the solvent and filled the rest of the tub with water. Very good investment for a garage, makes cleaning stuff a snap...

-dan



oh and be sure to pick up a variety of brushes, and wearing heavy duty latex gloves is always a good idea...
it's $80 now or your local store is cheaper
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Old 07-03-2004, 09:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Got the HF 40 gallon parts washer for $75 as a scratch and dent. Wasn't through HF but through a guy locally who buys pallets of stuff from them, most of it still new in the box but with slight damage. In the case of the parts washer it had one small dent in the lid that I fixed in a whopping 5 minutes.

Can't remember the name of the solvent I use, it's a concentrate that you can dillute 5:1 with water though and works great.
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Old 07-03-2004, 10:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I took an old wash basin and welded it onto a 45 gal drum. Cut some slits in the basin so it would drain into the drum. Rigged up an old electric fuel pump with a xformer and rectifier to run off 120VAC and used fuel hose to plumb 'er up.

EDIT: Kerosene works good and its cheap

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Old 07-04-2004, 01:09 AM   #8 (permalink)
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EDIT: Kerosene works good and its cheap
I've been using diesel fuel in my parts washer for years. But, every time I suggest it, someone will complain about the odor. It's cheap, effective, safe and easy to get rid of when spent.
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Old 07-04-2004, 08:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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If ppl cant handle the smell, they shouldnt be wrenching...
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Old 07-04-2004, 09:03 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If ppl cant handle the smell, they shouldnt be wrenching...
Werd Up Brutha!
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Old 07-04-2004, 09:34 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I have a cheapy but decent floor model 20 gallon does nice but still too small (and the lid dont shut right!, makes a nice spot for the chop saw to rest while not using I admit).

Gonna make me up my own down the line, approx 50 gallons basically using the pump out of this one, 3x3 angle iron and some flat bar all with 16 ga. steel, with expanded steel fake bottom to keep the actual clean parts out of the crap floating on the bottom. I use mine on a weekly basis it seems so by end of 6 months, its like the mississippi river at the bottom!

I run mostly varsol but also add in parts degreaser. Usually 3-1 mix. Works pretty good I find.

I say if you can weld up good enough to seal up leaking pinholes, why not build bigger and stronger?
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Old 07-04-2004, 11:55 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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If ppl cant handle the smell, they shouldnt be wrenching...
WHATEVER, i CAN'T GET THE DIESEL SMELL OUT OF MY SHIRT, 1 SPLASH, WASHED TWICE, none of my other cloths have the smell same load
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Old 07-04-2004, 12:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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a old computer power supply works great as a power source for a homade parts washer... it has both 5 and 12 vold wires on it and lots of em..
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Old 07-04-2004, 01:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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look for one of these if you can find a trans shop or something selling there equipment.
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Old 07-04-2004, 01:05 PM   #15 (permalink)
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My parts washer is on a 35 gallon barrell. To use less solvent I put a 16 gallon steel drum inside the 35 gallon drum. It makes it easier to change the fluid and you can get the 16 gallon with resealable tops from garages that buy them full of gear oil.

I use low oder mineral spirits AKA paint thinner in mine and it works great. When it gets dirty, I take it to the dump when they have house hold hazzardous waste days.

Varsol is what safety clean uses in their machines and it is "varnish solvent" paint thinner is very similar and works very well.

I buy it in the 5 gallon metal cans from Duron and take the dirty stuff to recycling in the same can. Low oder cost a little more, but is nicer if your garage is attached to your house.

-Stumbaugh
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Old 07-04-2004, 04:56 PM   #16 (permalink)
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My parts washer is on a 35 gallon barrell. To use less solvent I put a 16 gallon steel drum inside the 35 gallon drum. It makes it easier to change the fluid and you can get the 16 gallon with resealable tops from garages that buy them full of gear oil.

I use low oder mineral spirits AKA paint thinner in mine and it works great. When it gets dirty, I take it to the dump when they have house hold hazzardous waste days.

Varsol is what safety clean uses in their machines and it is "varnish solvent" paint thinner is very similar and works very well.

I buy it in the 5 gallon metal cans from Duron and take the dirty stuff to recycling in the same can. Low oder cost a little more, but is nicer if your garage is attached to your house.

-Stumbaugh
Heaven help you if you ever ignite that stuff. It has a frighteningly low flashpoint, many, many BTUs/lb and is a definite hazardous waste. If you're doing this as a profit-seeking business, it could be bad.

Diesel fuel on the other hand has a nice high flashpoint, is extinguishable and can realistically be used as fire starter, engine fuel (if strained, etc), and is much cheaper and easier to obtain.

As for the odor on your clothes, if you don't get it on you, it's not a problem I gots to get me an article of PPE to keep it off of me...
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Old 07-04-2004, 07:30 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Heaven help you if you ever ignite that stuff. It has a frighteningly low flashpoint, many, many BTUs/lb and is a definite hazardous waste. If you're doing this as a profit-seeking business, it could be bad.

Diesel fuel on the other hand has a nice high flashpoint, is extinguishable and can realistically be used as fire starter, engine fuel (if strained, etc), and is much cheaper and easier to obtain.

As for the odor on your clothes, if you don't get it on you, it's not a problem I gots to get me an article of PPE to keep it off of me...
Dude, you got to love a know it all! The flash point of diesel is in the same category as mineral spirits (AKA Paint Thinner) and is a MUCH better degreaser. Go to home depot and read the can, it says "for degreasing".

I could care less about the price, diesel is nasty stuff to have in the shop.

Low oder spirites has nearly no oder at all.

From Google:

CLASSES

Flammable and combustible liquids are divided into the following classes; based on flash points and boiling points. Flammable liquids are defined as those with flash points below 100 F and combustible liquids have flash points at or above 100 F. Flammable and combustible liquids are further subdivided into the following classes:

Class IA. Flash point below 73 F. Boiling point below 100 F. Examples include ethyl ether, and gasoline.

Class IB. Flash point below 73 F. Boiling point at or above 100 F. Examples include acetone, benzene, ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, methyl alcohol, toluene, and petroleum ether.

Class IC. Flash point at or above 73 F and below 100 F. Examples include xylene and turpentine.

Class II. Flash point at or above 100 F and below 140 F. Examples include kerosene, mineral spirits, and diesel fuel.

Class IIIA. Flash point at or above 140 F and below 200 F. Examples include pine tar oil, fuel oil no. 6, and phenol.

Class IIIB. Flash point at or above 200 F. Examples include mineral, motor, and tung oil.

http://www.lbwl.com/SafMan/1109.htm



For the record, I used Safety Kleen profressinally in my business for 15 years and it's flash point is 1 point lower than mineral spirits. While we are talkiing about safety, my parts cleaner has a safety device to close in a fire. In 20 years with dick heads smoking in the shops I worked in, we never had a fire. At home, I keep my parts washer in a shed with all of the other flamable stuff well away from the welding area.

On a another note, the more you use the cleaner fluid, the lower the flash point becomes as it gets saturated in oil.

If your going to say something silly take a second to check your facts on google.

-Stumbaugh
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Old 07-04-2004, 09:42 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Hmmm, my shop gets well over 100 in the summer, over 120 (top of my thermometer) frequently in the summer. Diesel and the like wouldn't be ideal I don't think...
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Old 07-04-2004, 09:56 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Hmmm, my shop gets well over 100 in the summer, over 120 (top of my thermometer) frequently in the summer. Diesel and the like wouldn't be ideal I don't think...
Hmm. Good point, never thought of that. It rarely gets over 90F up here, so we havent had a problem. I think most auto shops use varsol (similar to paint thinner i blv.)

I agree with the fusible link on the lid of the washer tub for sure.
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Old 07-05-2004, 09:00 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I just got a snap on PBC 55 Auto parts washer. What has to be done to maintain these units for years to come. New to this unit, but for $200 I couldn't dare pass the deal up.

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Old 07-05-2004, 09:06 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Sweet machine. If its anything like the typhoon i used to use, it will rule the parts cleaning world. Does it heat the solvent??
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Old 07-05-2004, 09:45 AM   #22 (permalink)
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You know, I was looking just to get a cheap parts cleaner and then spotted this on Ebay. I figured, I would try to win it thinking it would go higher....but never did. I made a killing on Ebay for the fourth of July. I have no clue what this is worth (anyone....) but saw one or two in classifieds for 3-4k? Not to sure on the details yet as I have not gotten it, but any input on this would be a big help. Thanks.

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Old 07-05-2004, 11:00 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Pssst.. a link would make it eaiser to give you a better idea.
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Old 07-05-2004, 11:39 AM   #24 (permalink)
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The only info was;

SNAP-ON PBC 55 Automatic PARTS WASHER IN excellent used working condition. 220 Volt Single Phase 42 full load Amps 55 gallons per Minute 55 PSI 3 H.P. Baldor Motor 30" Dia. Turntable 32" Work Height 60 Minute Wash Timer New Gear Motor

This must have been a shop closing up or repo'ed or something as the unit belongs to a auction house type deal and they had no clue really what this was or worth. They seemed clueless.

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Old 07-05-2004, 11:50 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I just got a snap on PBC 55 Auto parts washer. What has to be done to maintain these units for years to come. New to this unit, but for $200 I couldn't dare pass the deal up.

looks like caustic washer, like a hot tank, probley heats up, has a spinning carosel, and you add some solution (caustic?sp) what a deal!
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