Is the degree ring worth getting for a JD2 bender?

[DRM]

I have had my JD2 bender for a while, and bent enough tube to be getting comfortable with it.

I originally passed on the degree ring, as i was told by some that it is really not that useful.

With the new forum, I thought I would ask here - is it useful? Should I buy one and add it on? Why, why not? Thanks

[doctor_cad]

We use a machine real similar here @work in our door/window fab shop. It's a hydraulic machine and has a degree ring... Real helpful since you dont have to stop and check the angle. Just keep bending till you hit the angle+springback and you're done.

[bignissan]

i love mine...just set it up and you know where to go to...instead of "eyeballing" two pieces of metal stuck together with a bolt...

[SBChero]

i think that theyre great, dont need to keep checking the angle, but if you've got along this long w/o one... it does make things easier though.

[bk005]

I sure dont use as many jigs and protractors with the degree ring. I think its worth it once I got comfortable getting it set right and settign for springback. Im usually dead on, and I dont see how it can not save time.

[jelbehai]

I have VERY little experience (less than 20 bends probably) using mine (ProTools), but have found it hokey at best. Again, I'm definately a novice, but the issues I've found are:

It's not accurate for establishing the exact start of the bend. This is because of a couple things. First, the die doesn't hold the pointer too well (I might drill a hole to hold the clamp screw in the same location more consistently). Second, the little clampy thing to hold the copper pointer comes loose too easily...

Also, pointing the pointer at "zero" is difficult to impossible, given the "start" of when the tube is actually bending vs flexing is difficult to determine, for me anyways...

I've found it's "ok" for duplicating bends, so long as nothing comes loose in between bends, which has been unusual.

I know you asked about JD2, but thought I'd share my experiences - as inexperienced as they are.

My buddy did something on his cylinder, which I'll probably copy, and that's to put a pointer & scale on the extension of the cylinder, so he can always extend the ram the same amount when copying bends. Seems simpler somehow.

[fabcam]

Very well worth it. Once you determine your springback amount for your material, should be very easy to follow.

[Groundwork]

I've done alot of work with mine and it's NOT hard to use the ring. I think it's kinda half ass to bend tube with out. I've seen alot of people use the old angle finder eyeball method but it's just that, eyeballed. Maybe there better than me but I don't see how you could accuratly build or duplicate parts without it. Every bend I make is layed out and measured and I just stick in the tube and crank away. This is just my opinion.

[sceep]

Originally Posted by Groundwork

I've done alot of work with mine and it's NOT hard to use the ring. I think it's kinda half ass to bend tube with out. I've seen alot of people use the old angle finder eyeball method but it's just that, eyeballed. Maybe there better than me but I don't see how you could accuratly build or duplicate parts without it. Every bend I make is layed out and measured and I just stick in the tube and crank away. This is just my opinion.

ditto.

when you're bendin up a single 20' stick thats got 6 bends in it, and you have to duplicate it on the other side, you'll wish you had some better accuracy.


jelbehai- i have no clue what your talkin about when it comes to all you're "little clampy thingys" and "copper pointer" wtf kind of hokey setup do you have?

Make yerself a good pointer. and stick it on the die with the welder.

[jelbehai]

Originally Posted by sceep

jelbehai- i have no clue what your talkin about when it comes to all you're "little clampy thingys" and "copper pointer" wtf kind of hokey setup do you have?

The one that comes with the Protools, Sherlock.




Yeah - I should make it more permanent though.

Edit: I guess I should clarify why the PT degree ring, as it comes, is "hokey" IMO. The clamp for the copper pointer attaches to the die with a thumbscrew, and it's loose enough that if you tap it, it'll come loose. Same goes for the pointer itself, it rotates very easily, and then is off for the next bend. I'll do as suggested and make it more permanent. I do not know what the JD2 degree ring is like though...

[fj40guy]

Man... that is hokey.

I have a model 4 JD2. The "ring" is built into it. I'll note tubing starts to bend at 15 degrees (what ever, just depends on the dies). I have a 3 degree
spring back... so to get a nice 90 degree bend, I'll "stop" at 108 degrees.

Tom

[doctor_cad]

Check this ugly bastard of a bender:

[doctor_cad]

Here's the pointer & degree ring:

[SeaBass44]

Originally Posted by sceep

ditto.

when you're bendin up a single 20' stick thats got 6 bends in it, and you have to duplicate it on the other side, you'll wish you had some better accuracy.


jelbehai- i have no clue what your talkin about when it comes to all you're "little clampy thingys" and "copper pointer" wtf kind of hokey setup do you have?

Make yerself a good pointer. and stick it on the die with the welder.

wow! what a cage

[Rock Taxi]

As long as I don't knock my POS ProTools pointer clampy thingy loose, I like using the degree ring.

Dang thing keeps getting bumped though, and ruins exact repeatability, putting me back to the old two straight edges bolted together when that happens.

One of these night, I am going to make a good bracket to hold the pointer.

Ed

[jeeplord]

I've got the JD with degree ring, I double check it with a digital protractor, and I'm always withing 1/2 a degree, pretty accurate for such simplicity.

[Groundwork]

Originally Posted by sceep

ditto.

stick it on the die with the welder.

Exactly, You gotta use enough common since to make a pointer that doesn't fall off. Mine is a sharpened piece of welding rod tacked to the die. Zero it before each bend and no worries