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Old 09-21-2004, 04:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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the best way of fastening to cinder block walls?

I am working on getting my new garage/shop set up and am looking to attach some 2x3s to the walls for shelves, pegboard and whatever else I come up with. The walls are made of concrete cinder block and I am not really familiar with fasteners for it. What is the best method of attaching the 2x3s? construction adhesive? concrete screws? toggle bolts? Any other suggestions? I don't think they should have to support that much weight but I don't want them to fall off the wall or pull out either. It looks like someone had used some big nails to fasten 1x2s for hanging tools at one point but they have mostly pulled out of the holes.
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Old 09-21-2004, 05:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Tapcons.
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Old 09-21-2004, 06:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Tapcons.
exactly. buy the little kit and you will be not be dissapointed
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Old 09-21-2004, 08:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I drill all the way through the block and run 1/2" threaded rods through the holes with fender washers and nuts on both sides. They never come out.
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Old 09-21-2004, 08:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The Tapcons work, eh? I was looking at them today and wondering if they would do it. I guess I'll give em a try. Thanks
As for a 1/2" rod straight through, while I am sure it would work quite well I don't think it would look too great on the outside of the garage
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Old 09-21-2004, 08:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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JB Weld or duct tape!


Or concrete screws depending on how heavy it needs to hold..
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Old 09-21-2004, 08:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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careful you dont strip the tapcons. it can be done, just snug them up.
best if you can get some longer ones and get into the web of the block.

id get a hammer drill and a percusion bit.
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Old 09-21-2004, 09:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dharmabum
...As for a 1/2" rod straight through, while I am sure it would work quite well I don't think it would look too great on the outside of the garage
You could use smaller rods. But if you can't penetrate the opposite side then 1/4" toggle bolts hold very well. The new kind with the nylon zip work pretty good.
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Old 09-22-2004, 12:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toyota_Jim
careful you dont strip the tapcons. it can be done, just snug them up.
best if you can get some longer ones and get into the web of the block.

id get a hammer drill and a percusion bit.
copy that. i always throw on a bead of liquid nails
as well (for good measure). go easy with the drill-
cinder block blows out pretty easily.
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Old 09-22-2004, 04:19 AM   #10 (permalink)
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tapcons work for crap in the older real "cinder" blocks. they work fine in newer Concrete Masonry Units, and they work best when you put them right into a mortar joint or block web.
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Old 09-22-2004, 04:25 AM   #11 (permalink)
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If the block is grouted, filled with concrete, then tapcons or even small redheads will work anywhere on the wall. Haven't seen any block built in the last 15 years that wasn't grouted solid. Of course this is California, don't know about Jersey.
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Old 09-22-2004, 05:03 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the replies. Well the garage is about 30-35 years old and they are the older real cinder blocks so they do crumble pretty easy. I guess I will aim for the grout lines in between the blocks and use some liquid nails on the backside as well just to be safe. Will the Tapcons self drill or do you need to predrill with a masonry bit?
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Old 09-22-2004, 05:10 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat70FJ
If the block is grouted, filled with concrete, then tapcons or even small redheads will work anywhere on the wall. Haven't seen any block built in the last 15 years that wasn't grouted solid. Of course this is California, don't know about Jersey.
and there's the rub.
they only grout every 4th void or so (As far as I've see naround here), and I live in a 50 yr old house, so I'm basically using stuff that hangs ffrom the ceilings
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Old 09-22-2004, 09:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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A concrete screw is probably the best bet, shooting into it will is kinda sketchy. A sleeve anchor would also work well. You should be able to get a 1/4" sleeve type anchor at Home Depot. Hollow block typically isn't strong enough to set a red head type wedge anchor.

http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/module...jsp?OID=-12341
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Old 09-23-2004, 03:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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A concrete screw is probably the best bet, shooting into it will is kinda sketchy. A sleeve anchor would also work well. You should be able to get a 1/4" sleeve type anchor at Home Depot. Hollow block typically isn't strong enough to set a red head type wedge anchor.

http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/module...jsp?OID=-12341
There are lots of choices out there, you could do the tapcon, sleeve anchors, or even the screen tubes with epoxy and a threaded rod...

as far as grouting CMU walls, around here, most of the CMU basement walls up to 10' are ungrouted...but I kinda like it - it is job security with me owning my own structural engineering company

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Old 09-23-2004, 04:12 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bkfj55
There are lots of choices out there, you could do the tapcon, sleeve anchors, or even the screen tubes with epoxy and a threaded rod...

as far as grouting CMU walls, around here, most of the CMU basement walls up to 10' are ungrouted...but I kinda like it - it is job security with me owning my own structural engineering company

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Old 05-18-2011, 07:45 PM   #17 (permalink)
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tapcons don't work on cinder block

Best bet is toggle bolts. Tapcons, concrete nails, anchors ,etc will NOT work on cinder block. Especially if it's aged. It hardens over years and will crumble like a cookie. YOu gotta use toggle bolts. Trust me, I've tried tap cons, with and without hammer drill, pre-drilled (and not). Tapcons won't work on the cinderblock.
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Way to bump a six and a half year old thread as your first post...
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:24 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Double X panders, Tapcons bring the suck in cinderblock.
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Old 05-23-2011, 11:48 AM   #20 (permalink)
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your not supposed to put the tapcon into the block anyway. the tapcon is supposed to go into the joint. and as for california solid grouting all cells that for eatrhquake issues most likely.. florida does almost the same thing for hurricane winds. in indiana we grout every 2-4ft depending on spec and wall height. and also if it's low lift grouting or high lift grouting. a tapcon every couple of feet inot the joint will more than suffice as long as your not going overkill on the weight. also ALWAYS predrill tapcons. believe it or not hilti nails work very well too. i'm nto sure where you can rent the powder cap hilti gun some places require liscensing to use one. i'm unsure about NJ but IL is i rememeber correctly requires either training or lisceneing to use powder cap propelled nail guns.
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Old 05-23-2011, 12:44 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Let's see what other dumbasses post.
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Old 05-23-2011, 05:09 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Somehow, I bet the issue has been solved by now.

Dharmabum, what did you end up doing?
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Old 05-23-2011, 05:14 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Way to bump a six and a half year old thread as your first post...
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