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concrete yardage

1K views 17 replies 12 participants last post by  cavstoy 
#1 ·
I assume a yard of concrete is a cubic yard and that you can get a 9' by 9' slab 4" thick, then am I correct in assuming that a 40' x40' slab 4" thick would be about 14 yards?
 
#5 ·
CrustyJeep said:
19.75309blahblahblah :flipoff2:
Sure if you use .3333333333333333333333333... :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Your gonna need more than 2-trucks so you might as well order 20 or 21 to make sure you have enough. Keep the cost in mind though, the price of concrete has gone way up around here (SoCal) so ordering extra can hurt if you don't use it.
 
#6 ·
Yeah, I guess it is 19.5 or so. I am not sure where I f'd up my calc's but I get 19.5 when I re check. Oh well. and 21 is what I will order to make a little apron at the doors if I don't need it.
 
#8 ·
jeepnjim said:
In Construction Estimating A Yard Of Concrete Covers 80 Sq Ft The Depth Of A 2x4.
Actually at 4" it covers 81 square feet, but when I did it for a living, we always used 75 to allow for variances in grade and waste.

Lengthxwidth= square feet, divide by 75 for a 4" slab.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Here you go I do this crap for a living.If you want a shop that is 40'x40' 4" thick.You better order about 23 yards.You will never get a perfect grade so dont go by the numbers listed.Like I said I do this everyday.If you are planning on using 2x4's for the forms then it will only be 3 1/2" deep and I would order about 21 yards.I divide by 72 to figure 4" slab with 2x6" form and it gets almost perfect everytime.With a 2x4" form I divide by 80 depending on the experince level of grading the area.We have one guy that does his and we can always get a less amount becuse this guy can almost get it perfect.

Dont use that caculator above.You will end up spending alot more money than you budget if you do.
 
#13 ·
Ok, if when I pour the slab, Should I have the pole barn built first and pour inside, or should I pour then erect the barn? One of my buddies poured his and marked a level line 4" up all the way around the inside of his barn based off the high spot. Just poured and brought it to the line all around. It looks real good. Is this reasonable to do, or is this a bad idea?
 
#14 ·
I have a pole building starting next week. I'm putting up the building first then the skirt boards will basically act as the forms for the concrete (will have felt spacers around the poles). From what I can find, this is the method that has been recommended by multiple builders around here. Just need to know where your final grade needs to be and base your building off of that.
 
#15 ·
The only problem I could see would be the extra labor to move the material that you might could have avoided with no building to work around. The advantage would be cover from the weather, rain and sun.
 
#16 ·
IronBull said:
The only problem I could see would be the extra labor to move the material that you might could have avoided with no building to work around. The advantage would be cover from the weather, rain and sun.
I have seen it done both ways and from what I have seen there is not much price difference.. I think they take in to consideration not having to work out in the sun when pouring inside even though it might be a little more work..
 
#17 ·
Depends how much skill you have dragging mud.If you do it I would tell the driver to wet it up to about a 7" slump.It will make it easier to drag it into the barn and help get it level.Also it will give you a little more time to work the mud and will take longer to get it finished also.
 
#18 ·
I think I will do it inside the barn after it is up. i work mud for a couple of summers as idiot labor, and I think I could manage one last good ass busting job with help from afew friends.
 
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