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Shop buildup

11K views 91 replies 32 participants last post by  Toyota_Jim 
#1 ·
Camo's thread has been very helpful, so I thought I would start my own.

I ordered a 40 x 100 x 16' building from www.empiresteelbuildings.com with gutters, skylights, vents, fully insulated, and 12:4 pitch. I'm kinda embarassed that it is soooo big, but everyone said to get the biggest you can. Brian Hortin over there has been really awesome through the whole process and easy to get on the phone. The building cost me $36,462.16 Delivered, with engineering plans for the concrete and taxes.

The County planning Dept. took 4 days to issue the permit and the cost was $1316.00.

We started trenching today!
Any local guys with forklifts, scissor lifts, etc sitting around....we can put them to use. :D
 
#6 ·
Lt1Cj7 said:
What did concrete run you for that?
:confused: I'll let you know when I get some.

Today I did most the rough plumbing myself for the 1 1/2 baths. The old guy that built the dirt pad sure can COMPACT! Luckily my contractor let me borrow his HILTI jack hammer.
Reminds me: Add $4250 to my total for 14 loads of dirt, compaction, and compaction study.

I'm beat and sun burned a little. :cool2: Good night!
 
#13 ·
You guys crack me up! :flipoff2:

Yes, it is a personal shop/storage building. My budget is exactly $60K...good guess. I may end up at $65K though. :shaking: Still, it will probably be $10K less then JR's new buggy, LOL!

I'm gonna take some quality pics of the dune buggies at the Pomona Off-Road show tomorrow. May be my next project once the house and shop are completed.
 
#14 ·
I must be KOP!

I did my rough plumbing in the shop and the inspector flunked me! Says that I have too much plumbing in the footings. I need to UNWRAP everything for the water test. Add a riser 10' above the lowest point and fill with water. Connect all lines for water test.

The shop has a 14" wide, 14" deep footing around the entire perimeter. How do you get the vent to exit along the wall without plumbing in the footing!?!?
Same with sink: the 2" runs down the wall, into the footing, and out. Shower also.

He also says the rebar can not be closer then 3" to the black pipe. Can we just bend around it?

HELP!!!
 
#15 ·
The shop has a 14" wide, 14" deep footing around the entire perimeter. How do you get the vent to exit along the wall without plumbing in the footing!?!?
Same with sink: the 2" runs down the wall, into the footing, and out. Shower also.
Stub the PVC up against the footer and then 45 it back to the wall after the floor is poured.
 
#16 · (Edited)
You HAVE to run the pipe thru the footing at some point, the inspector should understand that. If you're running the pipe length ways in the footing, maybe that's what he has a problem with?

I ran a single 3" pipe thru the footing for the toilet and a 2" for the shower and sink. We ran one 2" vent pipe for each drain and will tie the sink vent into it inside the walls of the shop. Here's a pic.



Yes, bend the rebar around the pipe. You also shouldn't have it closer than 3" to any of the outside edges of the forms.
 
#17 ·
The slab is poured! :D I did pay a plumber $650 to finish the plumbing for the 1 1/2 baths. The 83 yards of 5 1/2 bag (3500 PSI) with one inch rock was $6900. Also needed another $371 in heavy wire mesh panels. The 6 guys laying the mud cost me $1300 and did a heck of a job. TACO's on me!! :p
 

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#22 ·
KingOf_Pain said:
We saw cut the slab at 4:30pm 3/4" deep but got alot of bad chips. :mad3: Even tried a new blade!
What did we do wrong?
Cannot say for sure without seeing the process, but with the sun and the dry ground did you cover the slab or apply any sort of curing sealer? Sounds like the top surface dried out too fast. May lead to spalling later on.

Best way to keep a crack free slab is cover it with poly and keep it moist for the first seven days. We used to do 6" slabs in 50'x50' sections with 4x4x4/4 w.w.f. without cracks.
 
#23 ·
The slab only has two small hair line cracks.......so far.

The chipping I'm referring to is along the edge of the saw cut. The saw would hit a piece of 3/8" pebble and kick it out, making a big chip along the edge of the cut. We even replaced the blade with no improvement???
I'm guessing the slab was too green still, but my cement guy says it would have been very difficult to saw 480' of joints the next day when the slab was hard.
 
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