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MIG welding wire

2K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  InternetRoadkill 
#1 ·
Does anyone know where I can order online some MIG wire called "Twenty Gauge", made by JW Harris under the "Perfect Circle" brand name? I am repairing some rusted out body panels on my 4 runner, and this wire is supposed to be ideal for MIG'ing thin sheet metal. Unfortunately, the local distribitors listed for my area by the JW Harris website no longer exist.
 
#4 ·
Yahoo search for Twenty Guage welding wire came up with JW harris' site and this info was on the bottom of the page. Call them and ask for your closest distributor ;)
J.W. Harris Co., Inc. Customer Service: 800-733-4533 salesinfo@jwharris.com
4501 Quality Place 800-733-4043
Mason, Ohio 45040 USA Technical Service: 800-733-5956 ext. 6192 techsupport@jwharris.com
Facsimile: 513-754-8778
For technical support and product information, visit our web site at www.jwharris.com.
Perfect Circle® Welding Wire
TWENTY GAUGE™ (brand)
 
#5 · (Edited)
One problem you might run into is that if you can't find a distributor that has some in stock, Harris will only ship out in minimum quantities. I tried to get some from my local guys, and would have had to buy a lifetime supply...

I've heard conflicting stories about how good it really works with bodywork gauge sheet metal. (More of a benefit vs. cost/availability thing, really)

you might have as just as good luck with regular hardwire in .023 variety on a decent mig machine... that is what I have always used, but in my cases I wasn't doing any hammer/dolly type finish work, especially in floor repair cases...

HTH
Chad
 
#7 ·
I was able to find some from a vendor on EBay. I bought a 2lb spool to see if this wire really performs as advertised. I'm using 0.025 wire right now which works, but you have to turn the heat down or you get an instant hole in the 22 gauge panel. The problem is that with the heat turned down, you get a tall bead which requires a lot of grinding. The Twenty Gauge wire is supposed to leave a flatter bead with less heat.
 
#8 ·
InternetRoadkill said:
I was able to find some from a vendor on EBay. I bought a 2lb spool to see if this wire really performs as advertised. I'm using 0.025 wire right now which works, but you have to turn the heat down or you get an instant hole in the 22 gauge panel. The problem is that with the heat turned down, you get a tall bead which requires a lot of grinding. The Twenty Gauge wire is supposed to leave a flatter bead with less heat.
report back will ya? I am very interested in your results. Pic's would be awesome.
 
#9 · (Edited)
If you have access to the back side you can try using a piece of copper plate for backup to keep from burning through. When you're done welding the copper backup plate will pop right off and your weld will look good. The copper just acts to support the bead while it's in a molten state, and to help take some of the heat out on very thin materials. This might let you turn the heat up and move faster for a shorter height bead.

You can experiment with some scrap 22 gauge and a piece of flattened copper pipe if you want to try out this technique for almost $0 investment. I was told scrap copper Buss Bar works well also, but I don't know any electricians.

If you like it, and it works for you (works great with Tig) buy some decent pieces of 1/8" copper from your metal supplier, cut them in varying shapes and keep them handy in your welding supply box.
 
#10 ·
Unfortunately, I'm trying to fix the A-pillars which have rusted out under the windshield gasket. The A-pillars are made with 3 layers. The inner 2 layers block access to the underside of the outer skin of the A-pillar, so using a copper sheet is not possible.

I'm hoping the wire will arrive in time for this weekend so I can try it out.
 
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