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welder just for sheetmetal?

1K views 14 replies 11 participants last post by  redrangie 
#1 ·
I have a 220v AC/DC lincoln buzz box stick I use for heavy stuff but all it will do with sheetmetal is blow holes through it. I am doing some pretty major body mods to my K5 (lots of bobbing, narrowing etc) and I need something that can weld sheetmetal.... preferably something cheap. It doesn't have to be good with thick steel or tube or anything else, I just want to be able to do some sheetmetal work with it without blowing to many holes. Will a cheap flux core welder work for me or will I need to use gas? Almost all of this body work will be done outside... so (after searching) I'm a little concerned that gas might not work so well for me. It does get very windy here sometimes.

anyway, what do you guys use? At some point down the road, I'll sell my Lincoln and get a bling bling welder that will "do it all" but thats not in the cards right now. Need the $$$$ for other parts and stuff. :)

j
 
#2 ·
well, your gonna want steady voltage/amperage. I would go 110 volt lincoln/hobart/miller/thermal in the 135 range. That way you can do flux up to 1/4. You will want gas, as fcaw is basically smaw with a moving, self-feeding electrode.

You will most likely run .23/24 with co2. you can get co2 bottles used, and use an adapter for the regulator output.

Sheetmetal brazing is good as well. some rod goes to 80kpsi

j
 
#3 · (Edited)
I have done a lot with a little Lincoln 135. Don't go flux core, get it with gas for sure. The heat involved in welding sheet metal is not hot enough or consistent enough to get the flux to a good operating temperature. Even on thin sheet I would often have the welder set up to 1/3 - 1/2 of the heat settings which should tell you that this will never be a good welder for doing heavy welding, but great for auto body, or putting together some 1" tubing to make accessories.

PS. I should add that if you are looking at a 135 mig, you need to concider a 175 that runs off 220v as well. The price is $100 to $150 more, but it will really open up your options. I bet you would have a hard time finding anything on a rig that you could not weld with a 175, and if it ever was too much for a 175 just turn on that buzz box.
 
#4 ·
I have a 135SP Plus Lincoln MIG that rocks for sheet metal. It maybe worth it to step up to the 175 series because it'll allow you todo thicker things and give that buzz box a rest. FYI I wish I had gotten the 175 instead of the 135. The 135 is really only for sheet metal, and sometimes the stick isn't as easy or as nice as a larger MIG would be.

Just like any other mig you have to pay careful attention to fitup and make sure that the metal is super clean before you weld.
 
#5 ·
IMHO, Miller kicks the ever loving crap out of Lincoln in quality and design, especially in their lower end el cheapo stuff. Look at a 135 or 175 millermatic. The 175 is probably too expensive for what you want (~750$), but the 135 is alot cheaper... maybe 4 or 500. Look at a Millermatic 135 compared to the small lincoln and there's NO comparison... heavier, larger, alum drive components instead of plastic.
 
#6 ·
My Millermatic 175 spreads welds like butter on sheetmetal at V 20 and Wirespeed 40 with .024 wire on the gas. However, I have to spread the heat across the joints pretty quickly though.

Like many people on PBB have said before, 220v is definitely worth the extra $$$. If a 220v welding outlet is of concern, no need to worry. You can always build an 10-3 or 8-3 extension cord with a 220v dryer male plug on one end and a 220v female welding receptacle on the other. When you eventually get a welding receptacle, you can always install a male welding plug.
 
#8 ·
If I were to do it all over again, I would never get rid of a 110v/135 machine. I would keep it loaded or set with .23 wire so I didn't have to change out my 220v machine all the time.

As it is, it's a real pain to go back below .125" as .30 wire sucks on sheet metal.

I am also an incredibly lazy bastid.
 
#9 ·
Miller or Lincoln won't matter. The different for me was a year ago I contacted both companies asking about some demonstrations or training or hands on for the neighborhood boy scout group. Lincoln gave me a quick answer that was no help, and I took it as almost rude like I was bothering them. Miller on the other hand took the time to write a nice letter, gave me the contact info of the local rep, and sent a packet of stickers, magnets, posters, etc. Service like that gets my business.
 
#10 ·
redrangie said:
If I were to do it all over again, I would never get rid of a 110v/135 machine. I would keep it loaded or set with .23 wire so I didn't have to change out my 220v machine all the time.

As it is, it's a real pain to go back below .125" as .30 wire sucks on sheet metal.
Exactly. I'm looking to buy a 110V machine (again) for that same reason.
 
#11 ·
rustedJeep said:
Lincoln gave me a quick answer that was no help, and I took it as almost rude like I was bothering them. Miller on the other hand took the time to write a nice letter, gave me the contact info of the local rep, and sent a packet of stickers, magnets, posters, etc. Service like that gets my business.
That is consistently the same story I hear out of my welding distributor. both companies make good products, but it seems time after time that miller is a lot more adept at customer service. I have blue machines in a MM210, an older MM130, and a spectrum 625 plasma. I also have a Lincoln squarewave 175 TIG, but I bought it used from my distributor when another customer bought a larger miller TIG. they all work great. buy the brand that is supported the best locally for you, and spend as much as you can to buy the biggest you can afford. everyone touting the benefeits of 220V are not steering you wrong.
 
#12 ·
redrangie said:
If I were to do it all over again, I would never get rid of a 110v/135 machine. I would keep it loaded or set with .23 wire so I didn't have to change out my 220v machine all the time.

As it is, it's a real pain to go back below .125" as .30 wire sucks on sheet metal.

I am also an incredibly lazy bastid.
Obviously ;)


I mean we could always just discuss pulsed mig :flipoff2: and your problems solved :laughing:
 
#13 ·
mike said:
Obviously ;)


I mean we could always just discuss pulsed mig :flipoff2: and your problems solved :laughing:
Yeah, but for a smallllll business who can afford that? basically, I like saving time.

If what I am working will be painted/coated, I will usually braze the sheet rather than weld it. Actually easier and just as strong, and please, if you don't know brazing and it's properties, don't respond with "I would never braze when I could weld"

j
 
#14 ·
I've got my Century 160 set up for sheet metal only with C25 gas and .023 wire. We did some welding on Alabamatoy's Toy this weekend and kept blowing holes in the metal. We were trying to weld to 18 ga sheet ALToy had fabricated after cutting off most of the fenders.

We adjusted the heat down as far as we could and then adjusted the wire speed until it sounded right (frying bacon). On the table, using scrap, about half the time I could get a decent weld, then right after that, I'd blow a huge hole.

What am I missing?

BTW: before the Lincoln/Hobart/Miller fanatics flame me for the Century: It was free from my BIL and it complements my Lincoln SP-175 Plus and AC-225. So there. :)

Thanks,

Al
 
#15 ·
running beads on sheet metal is tough, that's why most teach the dividing tack method. keep deviding your tacks by two. spot the ends, then spot the middle, then the middle of those, etc. etc.

When you get down to less than an inch, you can usually stich from there working at opposite ends to keep the heat down. long slow process.
 
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