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Old 02-17-2006, 05:49 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caryt
My last shop I used copper..type L, cheep easy and I silver soldered everything with 15%!

cary
Silver solder would give you the strongest joint. Not sure if it is needed for 125 PSI though.
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Old 02-17-2006, 07:52 PM   #27 (permalink)
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You can use a Franzinator.
And what are you gonna do this this dumb thing?
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Old 02-17-2006, 07:57 PM   #28 (permalink)
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and what do you plan to do with this waste of time?

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You can use a Franzinator.
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Old 02-18-2006, 09:34 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fj40charles
Silver solder would give you the strongest joint. Not sure if it is needed for 125 PSI though.
I am a HVAC contractor so doing it that way is easy and faster for me to do! I run 175lbs in the lines.

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Old 02-18-2006, 10:35 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironpig70
when you do your drops turn thr "T" upside down and then put in a short straight piece and then an elbow, then your drop. what this does is keep water in your supply line and not in your tools. a cheap trick to do if you do it when building a system.
I just finished doing my garage just like this:

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Old 02-18-2006, 10:56 PM   #31 (permalink)
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...rSeparator.jpg
My Franzinator
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Old 02-18-2006, 11:54 PM   #32 (permalink)
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So officially silver solder is the strongest right? That or just tig everything
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Old 02-19-2006, 08:30 AM   #33 (permalink)
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so anyone have any comments on the products listed in the original post?
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Old 02-19-2006, 01:06 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Yep, the kits mentioned at the start are nice and probably go together slicker than snot. But I about fell out of my chair when I saw the prices.
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Old 02-20-2006, 02:49 PM   #35 (permalink)
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as a plumber in our garage we have copper for the main part and pex that connects that to the compreser. copper is 10x easyer then steel pipe and pex is 10x easyer then copper
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Old 02-24-2006, 01:36 PM   #36 (permalink)
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useing silver solder is way over kill and costly compared to solder,with air you dont even need type L copper M is surficiant and believe me sweating pipe is way easier than threading
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Old 02-24-2006, 06:10 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendo
useing silver solder is way over kill and costly compared to solder,with air you dont even need type L copper M is surficiant and believe me sweating pipe is way easier than threading
Ya I know but I bought it by the pound and have lots of it

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Old 02-25-2006, 06:07 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I've done both copper and galv. pipe that comes pre-threaded (I had to get the HD guys to cut and thread a few off size pieces, but that was no problem really). Both worked just fine. Copper is way eaiser to work with and put together - not to mention cleaner as you don't need any thread sealant.I've got several moisture traps and drains and an air drop about every four feet with an extra one overhead. I'll be running one more through the wall to the pad next to the garage when I get around to it. The only leaks I've had with either system was an occasional bad quick disconnect.

To each his own, but I personally don't see the point in dropping a ton of money on some snazzy manufactuerd air piping system when a snazzy copper or galv. pipe system can be had for way less...
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Old 03-19-2006, 07:09 PM   #39 (permalink)
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OK school me on why I should not use PVC or CPVC pipe. I know a few people that are using pvc pipe and have for over 10 years with no problem.
I never thought of copper. I just knew that I did not want to do it with steel pipe. With the threading and all.
Oh yea. This will be going in a garage / shop that is heated all year. It never gets below 45 degs.
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Old 03-19-2006, 08:29 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jeeppoor
OK school me on why I should not use PVC or CPVC pipe. I know a few people that are using pvc pipe and have for over 10 years with no problem.
I never thought of copper. I just knew that I did not want to do it with steel pipe. With the threading and all.
Oh yea. This will be going in a garage / shop that is heated all year. It never gets below 45 degs.
Technically... PVC COULD work... People use PVC for all sorts of things (sprinklers, general plumbing.... potato guns )... Some of these things excede (sp?) 125 psi which is what our water preasure is here. Who could say that an additional 25 psi (to make 150 psi) isn't possible?

At the same time, I cringe at the thought of a PVC pipe exploding (or whatever you would want to call it) if I smacked into it with the truck, something heavy or other-wise.
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Old 03-20-2006, 02:34 AM   #41 (permalink)
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The shop I'm in was plumbed with PVC pipe in the walls by the person who built it and guess what happened the first time it was hooked up. Leaks could be heard all over the place inside the walls hehe. We re-plumbed everything with copper and have zero leaks, pressure gauge still says 120 psi the next morning. Just recently expanded into another shop which had the remains of a PVC system, we put in all copper again. Goes really quick if you know what you're doing and will last a long long time.
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Old 03-20-2006, 07:55 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Are those joints soldered yet? Mine are discoloring like crazy. I'm wondering if Im using too much heat or what. I bought some extra fittings to practice(learn ) with. I could see inside the fitting after I was done and the solder made it all the way through which is important right.
Im using lead free solder and one of those little bernzomatic type torches.



Quote:
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I just finished doing my garage just like this:

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Old 03-20-2006, 07:57 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeppoor
OK school me on why I should not use PVC or CPVC pipe.
PVC can work as far as the pressures go. The problem is when it stops working... PVC is brittle and you get shrapnel. Not just a matter of the pressure blowing the pipe - what about something accidently hitting it?

The chances of black pipe going at the pressures being used is limited and it will take a pretty good blow as well. Again, copper is unlikely to go from pressure and if hit it will only rupture and all the air escapes. Although PVC can take the pressure, if something smacks it and it breaks you have shrapnel going everywhere. I've seen the aftermath - plastic shards embedded in drywall and wood...

Now imagine standing next to it... Not something I want to take a chance on...
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Old 03-20-2006, 10:43 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6869704x4
Are those joints soldered yet? Mine are discoloring like crazy. I'm wondering if Im using too much heat or what. I bought some extra fittings to practice(learn ) with. I could see inside the fitting after I was done and the solder made it all the way through which is important right.
Im using lead free solder and one of those little bernzomatic type torches.
Nope. That was just mocked into place. I used the exact same stuff you're using. Sounds like you're doing it right.
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:59 PM   #45 (permalink)
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piping

I never considered using copper or iron pipe. My dad piped his with pvc when i was a kid, did the same at his new house and so did I. Never had any problems. We just used the plain sch 40. The Sch 80 is stronger yet. I don't have any problems with leaks or breakage.

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Old 03-20-2006, 05:17 PM   #46 (permalink)
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The shop I'm in was plumbed with PVC pipe in the walls by the person who built it and guess what happened the first time it was hooked up. Leaks could be heard all over the place inside the walls hehe.
Wow. PVC is pretty hard to fawk up. I've never had a PVC joint leak, and I've done a fair bit, between landscape irigation work and air piping. The builder must have done something *really* whack
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Old 03-20-2006, 06:00 PM   #47 (permalink)
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OK school me on why I should not use PVC or CPVC pipe. I know a few people that are using pvc pipe and have for over 10 years with no problem.
I never thought of copper. I just knew that I did not want to do it with steel pipe. With the threading and all.
Oh yea. This will be going in a garage / shop that is heated all year. It never gets below 45 degs.

If you are going to use PVC use schedule 80 -- about double the rating of the more common schedule 40 stuff, which WILL blow up on you -- and at the worst possible moment.

Also know that some of the new ester oils in use by major compressor manufacturers eats PVC. Make sure your system is compatible. I get to change out all the air lines in the place where I work -- we just found out the hard way about the oil deal -- our compressor relief failed and we blew out a couple feet of PVC (schedule 80) and the insides were rotted away worse than rusty steel.

I like the idea of using the poly truck lines w/compression fittings for a home shop though. That might be the best bet from cost and ease of use.
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Old 04-22-2006, 10:46 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Finished my copper air line a couple of weeks ago. I had to resolder one joint which is better than I expected since Ive never worked with this stuff before. I downloaded some info on working with copper from a link on garagejunkies. Anyone thinking about using copper I would say go for it.
My 175 PSI compressor and lines.


Some ugly soldering


Line going to cieling for reel hose


The fitting I had to resolder.
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Old 04-22-2006, 11:37 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Nice... I'm doing copper in my garage now... I'll post pics of it when I am done
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Old 04-22-2006, 09:16 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Get rid of the galv and black iron fittings in the last picture and replace them with brass. Iron and copper are dissimilar metals and you will have electrolysis. The first pisture is ok, the rubber hose will act as a die-electric.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 6869704x4
Finished my copper air line a couple of weeks ago. I had to resolder one joint which is better than I expected since Ive never worked with this stuff before. I downloaded some info on working with copper from a link on garagejunkies. Anyone thinking about using copper I would say go for it.
My 175 PSI compressor and lines.


Some ugly soldering


Line going to cieling for reel hose


The fitting I had to resolder.
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