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show your hand made tools

2M views 771 replies 286 participants last post by  ZAG 
#1 ·
Me 1st:D

ok I needed a hand reamer
mine was too long and shaft a tad to big in diameter to fit a tap t handle.
So 1st I cut it in half, try bandsaw knowing it will dull the blade.........doh! wipped off all the teeth:flipoff2:
4" cutoff wheel, 5 seconds done:smokin:

then I fire up the 135 hobart that been unused last 4 months,tack on an old 1/2 bolt that I had turned the hex head off with my lathe for another project.
! bam done:)

works perfect to ream out the last 5 thou
 

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#441 · (Edited)
Well just last Xmas, I detonated a 50-gal air tank just on the other side of that wall, knocking the gas meter off the house. :D But it didn't knock the wall down, and it didn't make my ideas about home renovation & equipment ownership any more popular with my cohabitant. :(

But she IS anxious to buy more property, and for that property to contain a sizeable shop for me to keep my junk in, DISTANT from her beloved (non-running) car. We just don't know when that plan is gonna come together...
 
#445 · (Edited)
Quick change tool holders kept coming into contact with the ground much more violently than I'd prefer. Cut some aluminum pipe in sections and screwed them to the wall. Put a bar along the bottom to stop them from falling down.


Some commonly used MT#2 tools were all mixed up in a drawer, drilled some holes in aluminum angle and screwed it to the wall. Drilled smaller holes for drill chuck keys and an allen driver later. The tube hooked over a dead center on there is cut to length of the center height above the cross slide. Makes setting tool height very easy.
Had some carbide boring bar sets, and made a holder for them outta a 2x4 a LONG time ago. Chinese things, most are broken, others are all wrong geometrically and don't even cut.


Since then I've got 5-6 more quick change holders onto the wall.

Dunno where I saw it, but bandsaw power feed. Scrap metal and a bungee cord.
 
#449 ·
Hose splitter

I made this about five years ago and use it all the time. Just put the razor blade in place then use a vice to clamp the two sides together. Makes a nice straight split in rubber hose to be used as grommets or whatever you can imagine. I lined my sheet metal dash with fuel hose. Pics pretty much speak for themselves in how it was made. Cut a 2x4 in half then drill a hole the same size as your preferred size hose.
 

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#454 ·
Nah, just a piece of keyway. Although maybe I shoulda used some HSS as it would have been harder. I ended up adding a second lug so I could really crank on it, Damn thing was pretty tight!



This John Deere 410D backhoe has cylinders on it that some engineer should have been fired over. The 4 lugged part is just a nut on the gland which is held in with a snap ring. So you have to put pressure on the cylinder with the hydraulics or else the whole gland will spin and the nut won't come off. Then, when you finally figure that shit out, you go to pull the ram out and there is a cast iron piston sealing ring that get's caught in the friggin snap ring groove! :mad3: Spent most of the day getting the damn thing apart, why couldn't they have used a simpler design?
 
#456 ·
Made another tool tonight.

When building buggy's I like to use 1" box tube for the structure/cross bracing behind the panels. I set the back edge flush with the inside of the tube so the panels are recessed almost to tube centerline. It does a great job of keeping the panels off the rocks and when you do catch one it does not leave you with a sharp jagged edge.

The problem has always been the amount of grinding I have to do to notch them to the tube so I came up with this contraption.

First I took a hole saw arbor that had a fairly long shank, turned it down to fit in some 1/2" tube and cut the shank in half so I had a hex to grab with my drill. Then I welded it all up to make a hole saw arbor with an 8" round shank.

Next I took some 3/4"x.120 tube and welded it to a piece if 1/2" box tube, this netted me a perfect 7/8" to center stand off height. Then I welded all of that to a piece of 4" wide 3/16" which forms the frame.

Last I added a piece of 1/4" rod where the drill bit would go, and a support tab. The rod helps support everything and gives you a reference point to set your material up against.

To use the tool you measure or mark your distance between the tubes you are spanning, then add 3/4" to each end, Cut on this line then butt the cut end up against the 1/4" rod. Run hole saw through and you have a perfect fit.
 

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#460 ·
Other than an engineering exercise, I really don’t see the purpose of a can crusher unless it has some sort of feed and is automatic. If I have to load each can and trigger each crush, it is easier to line them up on my sidewalk and stomp on them.
 
#462 ·
Also since I had to go back in time through my photobucket account to get those pics of the can crusher you now have to deal with the wrath of all my homemade tools. Some of them have appeared on pirate in other threads, but not in here yet (as far as I know)

Replacement saddle for a floor jack, with two different length extensions. Was nice for pulling transmissions before we got our lift and telescoping transmission jack.







Electric over hydraulic press I put together with a surplus center motor and log splitter pump. We actually already had the press from a farm auction, but I practically had to rebuild the entire damn thing anyways.









Bed/frame I built for a sawmill (still need to finish this project sometime...)



 
#463 ·
Sand sifter I built for screening sand for sandblasting. Built entirely out of shit I scavenged from the local dump :laughing:







Pto powered buzz saw...





Tire spreader. Rebuilt it and mounted an air cylinder on it instead of a hydraulic jack like it used to have. Mounted it on a swinging pivot to get it up at a good height for patching tires.



 
#464 ·
Folding drycut saw table...







Pto powered corn roller/grinder. Mounted it on the trailer and added the pto shaft. Was originally engine powered by god only knows what kind of engine...







Hydraulic hose maker I threw a hf air over jack onto. Had to make it a hell of a lot taller to get that jack in there. Makes putting hose ends on a breeze though with the air power.



Big ass hole saw for cutting through roots with a pto powered post hole digger.





 
#467 ·
billybob, have you ever made a jack saddle that works to support a front axle? I'm curious what a design would look like for that. I've got ideas in my mind and probably should just get out there and do it, but hell if someones done it before might as well learn from their mistakes :flipoff2:
 
#469 ·
I have not built anything like that. Are you planning on one jack in the middle to lift an axle into place? If so could you start with something like this...



And add some U-bolts to each end to clamp around the axle tube? Might have to put a spacer on each end as well to get the beam under the differential area without hitting.


Fawk.

I just gave a snowblower to the scrap guy. :(
I was actually planning on keeping this tiller as a tiller and finding another to build into the mini trencher. Would have been able to use the tiller gearbox to drive the chain and just build a bar off of it and it would have been a lot less work... Then it had to go and mess up the gears on me and I wasn't about to drop the coin for some new worm gears! :laughing:

You are one crafty guy! But that PTO saw looks scary as fuck
Thanks! :D Which one, the buzz saw or the hole saw? They're both pretty tame as long as you use your head when working around them. :)
 
#470 · (Edited)
I was more considering one that could be used under an axle to lift the whole front end of the truck up at once, without doing each side one at a time. Currently my diff is so centered (32" spring perch D60) that I can't find a spot on the axle that is flat enough to do both at once.

I was thinking similar to what you've got with a piece that cradles the diff pumpkin and on the other side is a notched tube to cradle the axle tube. Was just curious if you or anyone else has actually made one and has any suggestions. Could be width adjustable too.

Conversely I suppose this same setup could be used to install and remove offset axle housings into trucks.
 
#471 ·
Old shocks into long reach punches. Have a bunch, chisel, round, pointed. Have a bunch for whenever I need a sacrificial punch.


Extreme-duty hole saw arbors. We don't have many drill bits for our machines much bigger than 1-3/4". So when you need a big hole? Blast the hole saw through first then hit it with the boring bar. The cheap arbors meant for 3-jar chucks don't hold up to 4" hole saws through 1-1/2" cold rolled. I've made a bunch of these for the shop guys that are always using a mag drill in tough spots, one had a 20" shank.


Quick vice-mount tube notcher, rotate it to work where you need it. Need to make a bolt-on stand for it. HF notcher and $20 drill press from classifieds. Does up to 1-3/4" DOM in one stroke, anything bigger just undo the 4 set screws on the drill head and use a hand drill.



New vice handle. Mir50 pump shaft turned down and 7/8" cap screw heads welded on. That vice could outlive me now and never be bent.

 
#472 ·
Hmm... might have to pull those 4 shocks out of the trash and steal the shafts out of them! Also hell yes on the vise handle! I have rebuilt quite a few vises over the years and one thing I always like to do with them is put a nice big heavy and longer handle on them for extra leverage and no bending! I also like to put needle bearing thrust washers in them for extra smooth operation if I can find any close enough to work! Makes for a nice smooth vise! :D
 
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