ok I needed a hand reamer
mine was too long and shaft a tad to big in diameter to fit a tap t handle.
So 1st I cut it in half, try bandsaw knowing it will dull the blade.........doh! wipped off all the teeth:flipoff2:
4" cutoff wheel, 5 seconds done:smokin:
then I fire up the 135 hobart that been unused last 4 months,tack on an old 1/2 bolt that I had turned the hex head off with my lathe for another project.
! bam done
If you're worried about that, unscrew the knob and replace it with a suitably sized bolt. Weld to that. If the pliers ever fail, unscrew the bolt, screw in the knob, and take it in.
Of course, by that time you've likely forgotten where you stored the knob for safe keeping...
the coolest vise grip derived tool i've seen was when keepviper13 and i went to branik motorsports a month ago or so. It was a slide hammer that Stan had machined and the side opposite of the "anvil" was threaded to go into a pair of vise grips.
had to pull my tranny/klune/205 outtah the buggy this weekened and didnt feel like fucking with all that weight and my hangover.
couple hours and she was on the floor with no problems. i dunno why i never did this before but FAWK messing with blocks of wood and a floor jack. grabbed a bunch of scrap outth the pile and VIOLA.
Here are a few pictures of the homemade sheetmetal brake that I made a couple weeks back. I found myself in the need of bending a 18" wide piece of 1/16" plate. So I built this tool out of a 2 foot long piece of old CJ-7 bumper that I had laying around, 2 - 24" long pieces of 3" x 1/4" wall angle iron, 2 hinges I got from Home Depot for $1.09 ea, and a couple 5/8" dia bolts that are 1 1/2" long with wing-nuts to lock the material in place for bending. I then used some 3/4" cold rolled square tube that I had laying around in the shop to make the handles for the brake. And put it all together and this is what you get...........
As you can see from the material I am holding it easily bends a 90degree bend on this plate that is just a little bit thicker than 1/16" but not quite at thick as 1/8" plate. The bend itself was quite effortless too.... so for a tool that was build out of spare parts and took me only an hour to design and build..... I think it is a success. Also when you consider that I have about $30 invested into this sheet metal brake as opposed to even the cheepy Harbor Freight unit that is about $150. Not a bad price either!!!!
I am considering building them and selling them.... just a simple basic tool for the every man kind of shop that wants the ability to bend simple metal. Anyone interested??
Thanks,
Matt
Hey turbo sniper, stack your pics so it's easier to read.
Thanks for the reminder, I forgot about the sheetmetal brake I made awhile back:
3" Channel I had laying around, some bits and pieces, a piece of 1.25x.25 angle and some C-clamps, welded a chunk of 1" square tube on the bottom to slide a 4' chunk of pipe for a handles:
It's will fit a 48" wide piece, the intent was to bolt/clamp the feet down, but it was wider than my bench, so I stuck it in the vise.
I dont care how rusty it is, that's the first thing im doing tomorrow morning.
Man I'll be glad when they come out with cordless welder's, plasma, and air tools.
wearing gloves while your putting your hands on or near a turning piece of metal is very dangerous. don't wear gloves unless you want to get body slammed into the wall by your lathe. all it needs is a small string to grab a hold of and your going for a ride.
When I was working on my pinion brakes and needed a pinion flange to get the mounting of the rotor sorted out. Only problem was I don't have a 2-1/4" socket handy, the thirds are loose so no way to get them to hold still, and the nuts are stupid tight.
Basically the recipe here is.
A piece of 2-1/4" exhaust tube, 6 pieces of 1/4" flat stock 1-1/4" long, welder, and some scrap boxtube.
The pictures tell the rest, the second piece is to lock the pinion still so that I could pull the nut, and it bolts to the flange itself.
When I was working on my pinion brakes and needed a pinion flange to get the mounting of the rotor sorted out. Only problem was I don't have a 2-1/4" socket handy, the thirds are loose so no way to get them to hold still, and the nuts are stupid tight.
Basically the recipe here is.
A piece of 2-1/4" exhaust tube, 6 pieces of 1/4" flat stock 1-1/4" long, welder, and some scrap boxtube.
The pictures tell the rest, the second piece is to lock the pinion still so that I could pull the nut, and it bolts to the flange itself.
Here is my modded jack stands. They are harbor frieght 6-ton jack stands. I welded a 2"x4"xQuarter inch tube to the stand and used 1"xquarter inch flat bar for a brace. I drilled holes through the tube for safty pins.
now thats fucking scary!!:shaking:
make the base wider.
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