ok I needed a hand reamer
mine was too long and shaft a tad to big in diameter to fit a tap t handle.
So 1st I cut it in half, try bandsaw knowing it will dull the blade.........doh! wipped off all the teeth:flipoff2:
4" cutoff wheel, 5 seconds done:smokin:
then I fire up the 135 hobart that been unused last 4 months,tack on an old 1/2 bolt that I had turned the hex head off with my lathe for another project.
! bam done
This doesn't hold a candle to some of the stuff in this thread, but it was something I needed, and I made it so I suppose it qualifies.
I ordered a pair of taps a couple days ago, and discovered when the arrived that they wouldn't fit in any of the chucks I have for my lathe. Instead of spending $$$ on a larger chuck or other type of holder I grabbed a chunk of aluminum bar stock, bored one end out for the tap shank, cross drilled and tapped for bolts to keep the tap from spinning, then turned the end down to a size that would fit my largest chuck.
I know exactly what you're saying. I guess I shouldn't have said a pain in the ass, but it's still more work than simply shoving the tailstock into the work piece then standing back and waiting til it's done, then reversing the machine and standing back til it pushes it's way back out.
Also, I'm a little wary of big powerful machine tools. My lathe is big enough that I dont wanna chance having it throw a crescent wrench at me. If things bind up with this setup the adapter will probably spin in the chuck before anything bad happens.
The crescent wrench method is defiantly not OSHA approved and you are right. If something binds, its nice to have a fail safe, like the tap holder spinning in the chuck. I was building my links and had six 1-11/64 holes to drill. I went five inches deep, on the second hole the drill bit bound up and snapped. I still have a lot to learn and now try to make a habit not to over tighten my work piece in the lathe chuck when I'm using expensive tooling. I didn't feel like waiting another week for a bit so I welded the fugger back together, to my surprise it drilled the remaining four holes fine. Oh and not wanting to be to much of a troll here is a photo of my hand made ball peen sledge hammer.
I know exactly what you're saying. I guess I shouldn't have said a pain in the ass, but it's still more work than simply shoving the tailstock into the work piece then standing back and waiting til it's done, then reversing the machine and standing back til it pushes it's way back out.
Also, I'm a little wary of big powerful machine tools. My lathe is big enough that I dont wanna chance having it throw a crescent wrench at me. If things bind up with this setup the adapter will probably spin in the chuck before anything bad happens.
Hand made digital readout brackets and billet shift knob on tail stock. Also made up a air over hydraulic setup for my jd2 and skrew jacks, hammer and fly cutter i made in high school
How does that work??? the pieces you made replace the bearings and you take a depth reading to the top of the pinion and that will give you the distance from the top of the bar going across between the two bearing discs. Use that number to set up the new pinion???? thanks ED
that is how i plan on using it. I machined em down to 2.892" and bored a hole that was .647" and im using some scrap precission ground material as the axel and it mic'd out at .646 5"
bars are 22mm(0.87") round. bottom plate is 30mmx60mm (1.2"x2.36")plate and c part steel is 30mmx30mm(1.2"x1.2"). all mild steel. it did bend and deform lots but it did the job.
I figured it was good for a trial run. I will probably try to find some 4140 when I make some more. I'm just practicing with my lathe and it seemed like a good project.
I have made a few out of A-2, and hardened them. Been holding up just fine. The one I have a much better finish on than the other, but unless you look closely you would never know.
Last winter got sick of my small Husky compressor so assembled my own.
Largest compressor HF sails
5hp 220V Motor from Tractor Supply
Pressure switch,check valve and sheave from Grainger
Control box from left over parts from previous projects
150g tank I was able to get for the cost of scrap steel.
I built the compressor up high, so I could store my welder and Pressure washer underneath it. The HF compressor works good, but now I am starting to look around for a 2 stage. Get a couple grinders going and it just can't keep up.
Last winter got sick of my small Husky compressor so assembled my own.
Largest compressor HF sails
5hp 220V Motor from Tractor Supply
Pressure switch,check valve and sheave from Grainger
Control box from left over parts from previous projects
150g tank I was able to get for the cost of scrap steel.
:laughing: Awesome overkill! Is there a clamp on the other side that holds the can? I can usually just tap the bottom sideways on something hard like the workbench or vise to make it start rattling again, but I like this mo better! :laughing:
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