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show your hand made tools

2M views 771 replies 286 participants last post by  ZAG 
#1 ·
Me 1st:D

ok I needed a hand reamer
mine was too long and shaft a tad to big in diameter to fit a tap t handle.
So 1st I cut it in half, try bandsaw knowing it will dull the blade.........doh! wipped off all the teeth:flipoff2:
4" cutoff wheel, 5 seconds done:smokin:

then I fire up the 135 hobart that been unused last 4 months,tack on an old 1/2 bolt that I had turned the hex head off with my lathe for another project.
! bam done:)

works perfect to ream out the last 5 thou
 

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#306 ·
Homemade (ok shop made) plasma cutting table. They left a bunch of pallet racking in the shop with those grates...so I cut them down. Have a bunch of the grates, but hopefully I'll have a CNC table before too long.

Definitely nicer than having sheet hanging off the edge of something.

 
#310 ·
Working in a Geo Tracker the spindle nut is 2" dia. 4 hole. No luck finding a socket so.............. Nothing as fancy as some of the really great stuff in this thread but it worked. I used old screwdrives for the pins. Put them in the holes of the nut then wealded them to the socket. Now it's in the socket drawer.
 
#322 ·
I always like checking this thread for new stuff - so many great ideas.

For that tube-flaring jig.... looks like basically a fender washer on the inside clamped against an exhaust clamp... how exactly does it get the flare all the way around? Do you un-clamp and rotate the tube a time or 2 to work your way around? or is there some slick way to rotate the piece while still applying clamping pressure?
 
#326 ·
Converted my HF porta-band to vertical. I kept waiting for it to die so I could justify a new Dewalt and the Swag setup, but after ~5 years it keeps working. Built with some angle iron and some scrap flat stock my buddy had in his shop.

I saw some other conversions that hung the saw from the top bolts where the handle is, but we didn't have enough square tube laying around to go that route. Works great so far.

 
#340 ·
Nothing real fancy, but a quick tool I made the other day to hold a 2" diameter threading die. A buddy needed some hydraulic cylinder rod threaded for 7/8"-14 thread and was able to get a die locally, but didn't have a holder.






I used a scrap piece of 2 3/8" OD thick-wall pipe, and bored it out to 2" ID x 1/2" deep to fit the die and drilled and tapped for a couple 5/16" set screws that fit into the dimples on the die.

The handle is 1 1/2" x .120 wall DOM that I welded on.

It's an easy way to get the threads started nice and square. After turning the OD of the section you are trying to thread, cut a nice chamfer on the end. Place the die up against the end of the rod, and then use a suitable sized rod in the tailstock to push against the backside of the die. The tailstock should be locked down to the lathe bed.


Then just use the chuck wrench (stick the handle portion into the square holes in the chuck) to slowly turn the chuck with your left hand while using your right hand to slowly turn the tailstock feed wheel. This keeps pressure on the die as it threads itself onto the piece you are threading.

The handle on the die holder rests against the lathe ways and keeps the die from turning.



Once you get it threaded onto the die such that it is poking out the backside of the die, you can remove the tailstock. Alternatively, if you are threading smaller diameters, you can either use the nose of the tailstock chuck (opened sufficiently to allow the newly threaded portion to pass into the chuck) or substitute a tube for the solid rod that I used in the tailstock.
 
#346 ·
I built this 6' 6" pry bar some years ago, it's my go to tool if something very heavy has to move. When I was scrapping cars, I shifted a few small cars side to side on the trailer with this thing:

I built these tools for working on grain bins. The two punches are what I carry in my bags, and I slap a socket on the 1/2" drive on each punch, and that's what I use for backing up the bolts so they don't spin when the guy on the inside hits them with the impact wrench. The long skinny punch (nickname is prison shank) is 6" long and 5/16" in diameter, made from a heavy screwdriver shaft. The bigger heavier punch (nickname is peace pipe) is a standard alignment punch with a point ground on it. The grip on both is hockey tape. The bracket off to the side is a guide to help with dropping a bin top onto an already complete ring. The guide sits on top of the bottom ring, and the angled guide directs the upper section over the outside of the lower ring. I have about 10 of these brackets that we spread out as we lower the bin with the crane.

These are some ratcheting crowsfeet that I made from spare ratcheting combo wrenches. I started with these three, but I intend to make a whole set as I find cheap ratcheting wrenches in pawn shops.
 
#347 ·
I got board today and started messing around with a spare Stanley rotator ratchet I had. I cut the plastic grip off, shortened it up, and welded a socket on the rotator shaft so that I can use it as a right angle socket drive. Here it is next to a standard rotator ratchet.
 
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