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#1 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20204
Location: arkansas
Posts: 452
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Wiring for welder
I searched and didn't exactly find the answer. I am looking at a Hobart 180. I was wondering does anyone know if this would be safe to run off the dryer plug it has a 30 amp breaker. My other option is their used to be a hottub at my house and their is a 50 amp breaker not being used anymore and I could also use the wire black, red, white and solid copper wire looks like. The wire is also pretty good size. Any comments thanks
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#3 (permalink) |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
Join Date: Aug 2001
Member # 6704
Location: Roosterville, Missouri
Posts: 6,986
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That welder will run fine on a 20A circuit, but will be quite close to the capacity of the breaker. I have a Miller 175 (basically the same thing) but I run it off of a 30A breaker just to eliminate the possibility of neusance tripping. It's not a problem doing this since the welder itself has internal thermal overload protection. You will be fine using either your drier plug or the 50A circuit you spoke of.... whichever is more convenient for you.
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It's IHeavy aka TORC KC0UIC -.- -.-. ----- ..- .. -.-. Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Member # 3236
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,761
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Quote:
In light of this I would caution vbtj to take whatever "advise" he receives from this post with some caution and not to rely upon its veracity until he has contacted the local AHJ (Electrical Inspector). NEC article 630: "Welders Arc Welders must be protected by a fuse rated at not more than 200% of the rated primary current. The fuse protecting the supply conductor can serve as the welder protection, if the fuse is rated at not more than 200% of I1max or the welder rated primary current [630.12(A)]."
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[QUOTE=Roxywheels]The trolls always out themselves :laughing: :roxy:[/QUOTE] |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
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Quote:
![]() As for his extension cord - personally I'de go with 6/4 SJOOW or SOOOW. WAY overkill for a 30A circuit, but if he wants to use it with a larger device/circuit later he could. Otherwise 8/4 would be my next choice. If I were to go with 10/3 I would have to take a close look at how long the circuit already is to make sure I don't have excessive voltage drop. NEC maximum drop is 5%. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Axes of E-ville
Join Date: May 2005
Member # 48097
Location: West TN
Posts: 3,457
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Usually, voltage drop isn't "that" much of a consideration on runs < 300' . But...if you live in a mansion or a large multilevel home...I guess you should check the length.
Like it was stated earlier, it is NEVER a good idea to install a higer capacity rated protection device i.e. fuse or breaker to avoid possible "nuisance overloading." Doing this will likely create more problems and potential disasters than if you had just left it alone and reset the original 20A rated circuit when the breaker tripped. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
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Quote:
![]() given that most people just think that a 30A device can be plugged in to a 30A circuit, I advise on the side of overkill. Last edited by Travis Waldher; 09-21-2006 at 08:18 AM. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2000
Member # 635
Location: Auburn, CA
Posts: 2,414
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10/3 will handle up to 30 amps no problem and for your 20-30 foot run it won't be an issue.
BTW, your dryer plug has an "extra" wire in there - neutral. That's because the power is split inside the dryer to run (2) 110V devices - motor for the drum and heater coil. You do not need the neutral for your welder, only the 2 hots and ground. I run my MM210 on a 30 amp breaker, so unless you're cranked all the way up to max and welding close to the duty cycle, a 20 amp breaker is more than enough. You may want to consider replacing the unused 50 amp with a 20 and running off that. At least you'd have the protection of the rated breaker for the device. And I would run 10/3 on a 20 amp circuit. Oversizing your wire is just good common sense. I'd rather pop a breaker than overheat a wire. Last edited by Kendo; 09-22-2006 at 03:11 PM. |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
glade you asked before doing i have a lincoln SP-175T 220v 20amp with the cart and a micro cut plasma cutter 16amp 220v. what i have at the present is a 12ga drop cord cut down to 45ft with the 220v plugs on both ends for the plasma cutter and 2 20ft 8ga sj cord with 50amp ends for the welder. the welder came with a 50amp plug so i just matched it. the reason for both cords is i had a lincoln 110 weld pack 110v. so when i upgraded i used what i had. what i'm gonna do is in the future. up the amps to 30 on the sj cord and add a small breaker box at the welder cart. mostly so i can do away with so many cords on the floor. because i have a cord for the plasma cutter, welder, and air compressor which when needed i run a chop saw.i never run all at one time except the plasma cutter and air compressor. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Member # 76684
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 2,919
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I run 25' of 10/3 on my hh 175. The garage wiring is 6/3. The breaker is 30 amp. I've never tripped the breaker, or felt the cord get warm.
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Member # 16024
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 934
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When I made my extension cord for my welder, I piggybacked a 110 box on the back of the welder plug box so I have 110 available at the welding cart as well. Just pull power off of one leg of the 220 circut plus the neutral.
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Check out UCORA.org VOTE or SHUT UP! |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
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Location: Roosterville, Missouri
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Quote:
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It's IHeavy aka TORC KC0UIC -.- -.-. ----- ..- .. -.-. Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. Last edited by Mechanos; 09-26-2006 at 06:51 AM. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20204
Location: arkansas
Posts: 452
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Welders on it's way Hobart 180. Can I run 10/3 from the breaker box say 60 feet through my attic to garage. Change out the unused 50 amp breaker for a 20 amp breaker or 30. Also make a 20 ft. cord out of 10/3? Opinions?
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
Join Date: Aug 2001
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Location: Roosterville, Missouri
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Quote:
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It's IHeavy aka TORC KC0UIC -.- -.-. ----- ..- .. -.-. Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Member # 4243
Location: Salt Spring Island, BC
Posts: 3,067
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Quote:
Probably best to use the recommended 25A breaker http://www.hobartwelders.com/om/0900/o925b_hob.pdf
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90-93 CTD jalopies Last edited by u2slow; 09-26-2006 at 08:43 AM. |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Member # 4243
Location: Salt Spring Island, BC
Posts: 3,067
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Quote:
If so, you may even want to consider a small subpanel.
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90-93 CTD jalopies |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Member # 4243
Location: Salt Spring Island, BC
Posts: 3,067
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Put the #8 on a 2-pole 40A breaker in the main panel. Find a small 6-12 space panel to put on the other end of the #8 (in your shop, garage, etc).
In the sub you put in a 2-pole 25A for the welder circuit. Run a short branch circuit (3-4'?) to a welder receptacle. Now you can add to the sub for future loads. 40A goes a long way in a smallish 1-man shop. I run my welder, compressor, lighting, and bench plugs without issue.
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90-93 CTD jalopies |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20204
Location: arkansas
Posts: 452
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Ran the 8/3 yesterday and got my 30 amp breaker and receptacle today and finished the wiring. Man it is a big difference between the 180 and the old 110 volt 135. Needless to say I will never go back. Thanks for the advice also.
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