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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 22176
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 8,746
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CK Systematics Mig Welder
So I recently acquired a mig welder which was tossed to the side by the company due to issues finding consumables. It was made by a company called CK Systematics which has since broken up. CK makes tig only equipment and I have no idea what Systematics does. Some time ago they built private label welders for Snap On.
FYI the welder works fine, I have been using it since 1997 when I was at Ricor. It just needs new tips and insulator bushings. (B&C in the photo) I was able to locate the tips in the following two places: http://www.brweldingsupplies.com/par...product_id=343 http://www.htpweld.com/products/mig_...ystematic.html I am also going to ask the Snap On guy if he has the ability to get any of these parts. The local welding supply rep wants me to convert to a Tweco #1 style end. I have the parts and it looks fairly easy but it does require cutting the steel inner liner of the mig gun back (is this a good idea?) Otherwise the diffuser does not screw down flush. What is the opinion of the pbb on this one? Should i cut up and modify the existing gun, or just order the parts ahead of time? How important is it to be able to run to the welding supply and pick up parts quickly? I am not a "fabricator" by any stretch of the imagination, but I have a workshop and I have a welder now, so I want to setup things as well as possible. btw, thanks to TRD for loaning me the Helmet and Bottle to test the welder and learn that my personal welding skills are lacking.
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I can break a steel ball in a rubber room! Last edited by Beat95YJ; 12-23-2006 at 04:42 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 46229
Posts: 1,037
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Who makes the gun that is on there now? I assume Systematics. IMO Tweco is not the best gun out there but it takes a LOT of welding to figure out what is the best gun for you. I know HTP is real good for customer service, I have owned one of the first HTP 180 migs for about 20 years and never had any problems. I can't speak for the other welding supply you posted. My HTP has a real cheapo Tweco that I have been wanting to replace since day one but I don't use it a lot to justify the cost. So if you are going to do limited fab work maybe just buy the kit and keep the gun as is.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 22176
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 8,746
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This is my at home, I want to learn to weld better setup. The welder currently has a Systematics model 15 gun. I don't know enough about welding to know if the gun is good or bad.
I look at it like this. I am fine at bending, decent at notching and fitting tube, but I currently refuse to do my own welding (on vehicle...I will weld a table together or tack weld like nobody's buisness) I don't expect to be the best, I just want to get better. Thanks for the input.
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I can break a steel ball in a rubber room! |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Maybe give Bernard a call, they might have a gun that would work for it. Your LWS should stock consumables for it.
http://www.bernardwelds.com/ Last edited by 40_Below; 12-23-2006 at 06:53 PM. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 46229
Posts: 1,037
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Try these guys if you don't mind buying on line. I did see CK Systematic guns there.
http://www.arc-zone.com/catalog/web_...d=9709794_2425 I've also been told Snap-On sells Systematics and the prices are not bad compared to LWS. Last edited by FF3PM; 12-24-2006 at 06:51 AM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Member # 17200
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 397
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Trimming the liner is not a big deal, they always come long and have to be trimmed anyways. Personally, I'd convert to a tweco end, you can get the consumables almost anywhere.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 22176
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 8,746
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Well, It works, however I may be the worst welder in the history of the PBB. I guess that's why I got it though, for practice. Started on a welding table today.
Anybody know of any good reference books on welding? These were the best I could do. (there were many worse)
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I can break a steel ball in a rubber room! Last edited by Beat95YJ; 01-04-2007 at 10:03 PM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Reprobate
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This is a great place to start. Free online tutorial. Esab university.
http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/MIG_handbook/592mig1_1.htm John |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 22176
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 8,746
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I ended up getting all of the torch parts thru the Snap On guy. Cost me around $20 for 10 ea tip and 3 ea diffuser and o-ring part, etc.
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I can break a steel ball in a rubber room! |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 22176
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 8,746
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So I have been using the welder more and more lately, and it is pissing me off. Every 15 minutes or so the wire jams up in the wire feed and I have to cut the wire, pull it backwards through the gun and rerun it.
Any ideas why this would happen? It is easy to push wire through the liner by hand. It seems that if the wire is less than perfectly straight entering the feed, all hell breaks loose. I'll put up some pics tonight as it is currently jammed.
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I can break a steel ball in a rubber room! |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Oct 2000
Member # 1926
Location: Dallas, TX USA
Posts: 3,254
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Quote:
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'69 FJ40 with very few stock parts. 2000 Cummins with some goodies to make it smoke..... Trail Gear's Bad Ethics=Bad Business. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Member # 17200
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 397
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Sounds to me like too much drive roll tension. The rollers should slip, not force the wire through when it's bound up.
May have a kink in the liner or a worn out tip that's stopping the wire in the first place. And the drive rolls keep feeding wire, that has no place to go, and you end up with a birds nest. |
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#14 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 22176
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 8,746
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Quote:
Quote:
I recently added tension as the wire wasn't coming smoothly off the roll and the wire was starting and stopping a lot. I will also check the tip.
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I can break a steel ball in a rubber room! |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Member # 17200
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 397
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I think most manufacturers say to put the gun up agains a nonconductive surface and feed wire, back tension off until the wire stops feeding (drive rolls slip). I usually just drag my hand on the spool, but this is on standalone feeders with exposed spools.
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Member # 48682
Location: ATL GA
Posts: 1,375
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Have you tried talking to CK directly?
I have a bunch of stuff from them and they've always been helpful. http://www.ckworldwide.com/ |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 22176
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 8,746
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Quote:
Thanks for the link. That is very helpful.
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I can break a steel ball in a rubber room! |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: May 2008
Member # 113418
Location: New Tripoli Pa
Posts: 1,471
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How is the drag set on the wire hub??
Some people call it the brake, if it is to loose the spool doesn`t stop when the trigger is released. To tight and you keep cranking down on the wire feed tension. The drive rolls could be worn out, they are consumables as well as liners.
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 22176
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 8,746
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I reset the drag, and it stopped jamming. I welded with it for most of the day Saturday and Sunday, and still had some issues.
I did rebuild the torch tip as it was a touch tattered. Here are some pics of the welder and a shot of my welds.
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I can break a steel ball in a rubber room! |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 22176
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 8,746
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After all that tonight Fred helped me figure out all my welding issues. I put out some of the best welds in a while tonight.
This is how Fred set the machine: ![]() The quality of my welds has increased 100 fold. I will get a better weld test tomorrow night when I do some shop welding projects. A lot of the gain is likely due to the chart that tells me how to set the welder.
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I can break a steel ball in a rubber room! |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 22176
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 8,746
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Some welds I have made with the Hobart.
![]() ![]() ![]() I did forget to turn the bottle on after a break. The weld on the right was the result of grinding it out are redoing it.
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I can break a steel ball in a rubber room! |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Member # 126808
Posts: 1
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Systematics welders
Hey guys,
funny when i read this, i used to work for Systematics, they build their own line of welders but mainly build for SnapOn Tools. Build around 5-8K welders a year plus they also build pipe thawing machines. Nice, heavy duty mig welders. They also build spool guns and some tig units. They are located in West Chester, PA (philadelphia suburbs) I am sure they are in the yellow pages, they have a large parts inventory and make all their own torches etc. Jerry |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Honestly this is one of the hardest parts of MIG welding. I still use the chart on my Miller. I never use those setting exactly but it always gives me a good starting point to fine tune to my liking. Really though it is simply a crutch. I TIG and stick without the use of any chart so it can be done, its just nice to have when you are lazy. You will get the hang of it. I would say your welds are coming along nicely. Congrats on scoring the new welder...
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Buggy in progress - 22RE on pane, A340, 4.7:1, 8" f/r, 4Ds Project Straight Pimpin' - 1989 4Runner 3.slow 5spd SAS'd 8" F&R w/4.30 255/85R16 2005 Ram 2500 4x4 CTD 6spd QC SWB |
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