Grinding Tungsten

[IronBenderII]

Hey guys, looking for information on grinding tungsten. How thin to make the point, etc. Anybody have a link? I have searched and searched...

Jack

[xrated]

Go to millers web site they have a lot of good tech for tig welding

[Wicked_S10]

A tip on actually sharpening it well, put it in a battery drill and spin the tungsten while sharpening it. Always sharpen it axlially, nor radialy. I use a bench top belt sander on mine, and always sharpen it to a point. I believe that there is actualy a percentage of the diameter that you are supposed to sharpen to, but a sharp point works well for me. Also, if sharpening thorieated tungsten, try not to breathe the dust, or get it in your eyes. Thoriated tungsten is slightly radioactive.

[cybergeek23851]

I've been doing 2 times the diameter. To sharpen it, I've been chucking the tungstens in a cordless drill and using that on the small bench grinder at the shop. I do it on the edge of the wheel, not the face. Also, be easy, don't force the Tungsten into the wheel, let the grinder do the work.

[Gummi Bear]

My buddy that TIG's uses his bench mount belt sander to dress the tungsten tips, and then quenches them in a cup of water.

[IronBenderII]

Good info. So is 2x the diameter the correct amount?

[Gummi Bear]

He makes it about the shape of a pencil lead point. I'm not sure about any formula, just until it looks 'right'

[XtremeJ]

I adjust the point depending on what I am going to weld.

Thin steel - sharper point to concentrate heat exactly where I need it. like a really sharp pencil point, 2 - 3 x the diameter of the tungsten

Thicker steel - still a sharp point, but more like a ball point pen look, rather than a drafting pencil look. maybe 1.5 - 2 x diameter of the tungsten

Aluminum. - even though I am going to "ball" the end I still sharpen the tungsten to about 2 x diameter first.

Once contaminated, make sure you break off far enough to remove the contaminant. I put the Tg into a vice and break it off, then rough sharpen it on a griding stone, and final sharpen on a belt sander. good tip above is chucking the Tg into a drill. And always axially not radially.

I always sharpen both ends of my steel Tg (red tips) so I can just reverse the Tg if it gets dull or contaminated. I only ever sharpen one side of the Al Tg (green). Easy way to keep them seperated even if the color is missing.

[IronBenderII]

Thanks guys. I've read about balling the end for Aluminum, how do you do this?

[rcurrier44]

Originally Posted by IronBenderII

Thanks guys. I've read about balling the end for Aluminum, how do you do this?

The way I was taught was to start with a square point and arc it out over some brass. Heat her up good and the tip will start melting and round off. You don't want to get the tip to much bigger than the dia of the rod.

There are some times when you sharpen it first to get a smaller ball but we never did that.

[rcurrier44]

Question for you guys. Do you need a special grinding stone for sharpening steel type points? I know aluminum is real sensitive to impurities but don't recall if the grinding stone was special or not.

Just finalized my order for a parker plas/tig

[MigMiester]

This site has lots of info and free how to guides on grinding tungsten. Also you can fill out a form on the site and get FREE sample tungstens!! The guides are in PDF format.

http://www.diamondground.com/


Click on [request samples] for the form!

[MigMiester]

Originally Posted by rcurrier44

The way I was taught was to start with a square point and arc it out over some brass. Heat her up good and the tip will start melting and round off. You don't want to get the tip to much bigger than the dia of the rod.

There are some times when you sharpen it first to get a smaller ball but we never did that.

If you have an inverter machine, you DON'T want to ball the end.

[jmhinescj]

I'm just getting into TIG...This is a great thread,

Iv'e heard that you want to use a dedicated grinder (or grinding wheel) to keep from contaminating your tungsten...especially for alluminum. Sounds like you guys just use your bench grinder.

Is that one of those things that you only worry about if your welding up nuclear reactors or something along those lines?

[MigMiester]

Originally Posted by jmhinescj

I'm just getting into TIG...This is a great thread,

Iv'e heard that you want to use a dedicated grinder (or grinding wheel) to keep from contaminating your tungsten...especially for alluminum. Sounds like you guys just use your bench grinder.

Is that one of those things that you only worry about if your welding up nuclear reactors or something along those lines?

I have a dedicated grinder and polishing wheel. Contamination will shorten the life of the tungsten. You'll want a grinding wheel with at least a 400 grit to do it right. That fine a grit isn't much good for anything else anyway.

[JeepinDoug]

I use a bench grinder, 1.5 x the diameter and always dull the point.

[4doorchevy]

they do do make a powder that u heat the tungsten up and dip it in and it makes the point on it for you. Work great when tig a lot just keep dipping it for a fresh point. Think it comes from MSC book

[ugpro]

For all but aluminum/magnesium use a pointed tungsten, thoriated,ceriated etc, grind with the long axis of the tungsten at 90 degree to the grinder spindle, you want the grind marks to following the cone (point). As for the length of the cone, 2x the diameter is recommended. Some folks opt for diamond grinders, I've always used an aluminum oxide belt, I do reserve the belt for tungsten only. I gripe my tungsten in 1/2 dia drill extension, easier to hold and I don't burn my fingers. The cordless drill is an option but you have to break your tungsten from the std 7.0 length.

For aluminum/magnesium:
If you're using a transformer machine, use pure tungsten and ball the end.

If you're using an inverter machine, never use pure tungsten, use thoriated, ceriated etc and grind the point off to a .020-.030 flat.

The manuals for Miller machines can be down loaded from millerwelds.com, there'll be page in the manual showing tungsten prep.

[Cork]

When I weld aluminum with a syncrowave 250, I use the Red 2% tungstens. Works just fine, the red is about all a guy needs.

[DavidVanVorous]

Originally Posted by XtremeJ

I adjust the point depending on what I am going to weld.

Thin steel - sharper point to concentrate heat exactly where I need it. like a really sharp pencil point, 2 - 3 x the diameter of the tungsten

Thicker steel - still a sharp point, but more like a ball point pen look, rather than a drafting pencil look. maybe 1.5 - 2 x diameter of the tungsten

Aluminum. - even though I am going to "ball" the end I still sharpen the tungsten to about 2 x diameter first.

Once contaminated, make sure you break off far enough to remove the contaminant. I put the Tg into a vice and break it off, then rough sharpen it on a griding stone, and final sharpen on a belt sander. good tip above is chucking the Tg into a drill. And always axially not radially.

I always sharpen both ends of my steel Tg (red tips) so I can just reverse the Tg if it gets dull or contaminated. I only ever sharpen one side of the Al Tg (green). Easy way to keep them seperated even if the color is missing.

Basically same thing(s) I do but I gave up on sharpening both ends. Had enough instances of having a ball or funkiness at the reversed end only to dip the wick and end up grumping about snapping the tungsten off while in the torch to get it out...

As to using a drill or other such, freehand on a pedestal wheel is all I've ever done ginding with the grain (length).

D.