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Old 10-16-2007, 12:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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37 degree single flare tips?

My single flare tool did not come with instructions, and many of the flares I've made on 3/8 aluminum tubing are tearing. How much "stickout" should I have on the tubing when I clamp it in the block? Is there a an actual distance or is it just a thing you figure out as you go? Should I press the die into the tubing until it stops or stop at a certain point?
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Old 10-16-2007, 03:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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My single flare tool did not come with instructions...
Well...there's your problem

In my experience
1) 37° stuff isn't as standardized as 45° stuff.
2) Without knowing what model you have it would be hard to tell you how to work it.
3) IIRC mine has a set # of turns (6 for -04?) after the cone hits the tube and you are never supposed to go down on the die/clamp. This is the one I have
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ringtools3.php
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Last edited by Triaged; 10-16-2007 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 10-16-2007, 06:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Deburr inside and outside of tube. Tubing cutter to give a nice straight perfect edge.

My flaring tool "Rolo Flair" has a built in max depth lever to slide the tube up against. Slide lever over, insert tube, clamp down. Turn flaring tool (don't let the tool bottom out).

You might want to post up a photo of what tool you're using. Most often the tube does NOT stick above the sides of the tool, but flush with the top. Couple of practice tries will show you if you have a deep enough flare.

Parkers Hand Catalog with instructions:
http://www.parker.com/tfd/cat/pdffiles/S-Equipment.pdf
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Old 10-16-2007, 07:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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first try. The flare was so wide it didn't fit inside the tube nut and had to be filed down. It was about 9 turns of the tool once I had made contact.



Second try and shows the summit flare tool I am using. This time I only did 5 turns. The flare fit inside the tube nut barely (had to be spun to slide into the nut)



Second one again. Cut was off so it came out lobsided. I need to pick up a cutter to make more accurate cuts.



The left is the first, the right is the second. The second centered pretty good once I attached the fittings and torqued them. Is the right one the desired shape, getting better?
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Old 10-16-2007, 07:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Looks like you need to do about 4 turns and make sure the tube is cut off square. Be sure to note how many turns it takes because it will be different for each size.

I never use tubing cutters unless the tube is hard to get to (on the vehicle). I hack saw the end and sand it square on a sanding wheel then clean up the outside with a file and the inside with a chamfer bit. I'll see if I can dig up the directions for mine.
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Old 10-16-2007, 09:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i have found that whenever i file or sand or chamfer the tube before a flare that it never turns out perfect.

I just cut the tube with a tubing cutter and flare it(with lube on the flare tool)
and they come out perfect everytime!

And i do alot of flares, and i'll everntually get the hydro mastercool set

Brendan
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Old 10-17-2007, 08:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I read a while back that using a tubing cutter hardens the end of the tube you are cutting and makes it more difficult to work with. I use a cut off wheel then prep with a sander and debur with a sharp countersink or carbid deburring tool. But then I also have a bling mastercool tool
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Old 10-18-2007, 10:49 AM   #8 (permalink)
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When you insert the tube into the tool it should be flush with the edge of the tool when viewed from the side.
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Old 10-18-2007, 10:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwag View Post
I read a while back that using a tubing cutter hardens the end of the tube you are cutting and makes it more difficult to work with. I use a cut off wheel then prep with a sander and debur with a sharp countersink or carbid deburring tool. But then I also have a bling mastercool tool
Yea i've read the same thing, but in practice it works great for me. ( i prolly do 50 flares a week) and i definatly want the mastercool set

Some people need to get of the web and actually DO some work with their hands
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Old 10-18-2007, 02:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Use tubing cutters, don't deburr. Like 'Roverhybrids' said, take your flaring die, turn it upside down and place it next to the tube to get the correct 'stickout'. If anyone has a problem with the work-hardening, you just might have pussy-hands.


As an edit, it does help to deburr larger tubing sizes (1/2 and up). On most anything smaller, you're creating a jagged profile to the inside of the tubing which only helps the metal find a weak spot and tear, as opposed to conforming to the die.

Last edited by Bolt Thrower; 10-18-2007 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 10-18-2007, 02:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverhybrids View Post
When you insert the tube into the tool it should be flush with the edge of the tool when viewed from the side.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolt Thrower View Post
Use tubing cutters, don't deburr. Like 'Roverhybrids' said, take your flaring die, turn it upside down and place it next to the tube to get the correct 'stickout'.
Like fj40 guy and roverhybrid said, I think your stick out is too far, generally with the single flare (37* or 45*) you want it flush, or just barely sticking out. When you flare it the flare is formed between the block and the cone. *which is different than what Triaged posted, but maybe his tool is different? Hard to say since yours didn't come with instructions.

Boltthrower, using the die to measure the sick out applies when doing a double flare, not the single.
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Old 10-18-2007, 03:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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...*which is different than what Triaged posted, but maybe his tool is different? Hard to say since yours didn't come with instructions....
Because his is built just like the normal 45 plumbing stuff I'm sure his is meant to be flush.

This is mine. I seem to have misplaced the instructions
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Old 10-18-2007, 04:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I have to assume this one was not designed to have the tubing flush, if that were the case the block would be machined a more precise edge. Its just a rough casting edge. I tried one with the tube flush and it looked like it flared the edge of the tubing- that's about it. I think I will just play around with the amount the tubing is stuck out.
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Old 10-31-2007, 10:42 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Is it safe to say that when a correct flare is made the tube nut should spin freely around the flare and tube sleeve allowing you to connect and reconnect one joint multiple times? I am noticing that if I create too big a flare, the outside edge of the flare digs into the inside nut threads and prevents the tubing nut from spinning freely once the joint has been tightened once. I have to force the nut to turn which breaks the flare and destroys it if I re use the joint. Does this make sense?

I am 100% certain this particular tool was not designed for the tubing to be flush, and I found the optimum "stick out" necessary.
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Old 10-31-2007, 11:10 AM   #15 (permalink)
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The flare on the tube should never touch the threads on the tube nut but after being installed the tube sleeve doesn't always spin freely on the tube.

Have you tried flush and counting the turns so you don't crush the flare in between the clamp and the die?
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Old 11-01-2007, 09:22 PM   #16 (permalink)
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It's all practice. The flare shouldn't be larger than the collar. Read through the pdf below it explains the process. In fact it has info on flex lines as well.

AC65-9A Ch. 5

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Old 01-15-2008, 09:34 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Ever get any good flares done? It would be nice to know if that tool works being that it is the cheepest 37° flare tool out there.
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:58 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I've used a cartridge deburring tool on 3/8" hard line. Laugh all you want, but it worked perfectly.
for deburring->
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...104&t=11082005

I haven't tried it on tubing but I would think this would be the perfect tool for quickly squaring up ends (with the right size pilot). It quickly trims and squares up very thin brass cases without chewing them up. The cutter's only about $6.
For squaring off->
http://www.leeprecision.com/html/catalog/casecon.html
P/N 90275 ball handle cutter with case length gauge as a pilot. Pick a case length gauge for a caliber that closely matches your tubing I.D. or just turn a pilot from scratch and screw it into the trimmer. No shellholder necessary if it's being used to square up tubing ends.
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