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tig for 1500 or less

4K views 13 replies 12 participants last post by  black4x4 
#1 ·
What would you guy recommend as far as tig welders go keeping it under 1500 at most. I have experience with a Lincoln 185, witch I believe is now a 225 and a couple hundred over my budget for what I have found it for. I plan to do 1/8th or less most of the time with some 3/16 through in here and there. also AC isn't a must but it would be nice, and I also would like something that controls amps with a foot pedal and isn't scratch start.
 
#2 ·
AC is a must for a TIG IMHO. Without it you can’t weld aluminum. Do they even make TIG’s that don’t have AC?

Anyway I got the deal of the century and bough my TIG (syncrowave 180) for $700. But really any 220 machine should work fine I would think.

Also scratch start is not that bad, I only tried it once but even I didn’t have any problems with it.
 
#5 ·
I am curious about these cheaper machines. My hypertherm 600 is a heavy unit. A miller tig machine has a big metal bracket on the top so it can be lifted by a crane or something. If inverter technology is just as good or better, cheaper, and lighter why are the big companies not all ditching their transformers and going to it?
 
#8 ·
Almost all plasma cutters built in the last 10 years or so are inverter based. The fact that the parker machines are so much lighter than their US equivalents has been a point of mystery to me as well.

All of the big US welding manufacturers have inverter based TIG machines as well, they are just really expensive. The Miller XMT is inverter based, as well as the CST as well as a few others.

There are DC only tig machines, used a lot in production pipe fitting where portability is a big factor and DC tig is all that is typically required.

For the OP, your best bet to stay in your price range would be to find a older transformer machine, like a dialarc. My dialarc AC/DC 250 is single phase and has remote current control. You can also find the dialarc HF which has built in high frequency. You can buy an external HF arc starter/stabilizer for about any ac/dc CC machine.

Basically shopping for used is the only way you are going to get in under your budget.

Later,
Jason
 
#6 ·
I learned on a miller syncrowave 250 all loaded up, loved the machine overall.

I got recruited to weld ome brackets on a friends axle with someone elses 185 tig with air cooled torch. I overheated the machine 2 times and I could barely hold onto the torch after the first few minutes of welding. that was enough to make me reconsider the 180 amp tig I had been looking at. I broke down and bought a syncrowave 250 used off craigslist. it was a lof of money but I know im only spending it once.

I consistently weld at 170 amps (not using all of the pedal) on 3/16" steel. my experience has been to always get 1.5-2x the machine you think you can get away with.
 
#7 ·
Just picked up a new Miller syncrowave 200 for $1800. I thought about the econotig, but decided that for the $300 extra, the sync. 200 was a better idea as I can grow with it better. Wanted a Dynasty for size weight and 110 power option but didn't think it was worth doubling the price which would have really blown the budget. One thing I found with the sync. 200, get it with out the running gear. I saved almost $250. Everything else was the same. $8 at HF and some angle iron scrap and I have a much better cart than what I would have gotten.
 
#9 ·
I have one of these new inverter type plasma/TIG/stick welders. It just broke on me:mad3:, but this is because I made the mistake of buying it from a company called RAMSOND. They even admitted that their quality control sucks. I plan on getting mine fixed, selling it and buying one from parker.

Other than it breaking, it is a GREAT machine, I can't tell you how nice it is to have a plasma cutter and a TIG welder for $600. The plasma works amazingly well. I'm learning how to TIG on it and am also very satisfied with it. It's DC only, and mine doesn't have a footpedal. I think the parker machines do have footpedals though. I haven't really needed the footpedal, or AC. Everything I do is mild steel on my truck so I have no need for it. The stick feature works great too.
 
#14 ·
Can someone fill me in on how the whole lift start or scratch start works, never done it. If all else fails I think I may just get a maxstar 150 or something and it seem if anything has high frequency start it bumps the price a couple hundred for the same welder.
 
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