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Sharpen a holesaw?

6K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  DSW 
#1 ·
Anybody sharpen their holesaws?
I assume the process would be the same as with a handsaw.
Anybody have good results in a reasonable amount of time?
I can see sharpening larger holesaws(2" or bigger) to be worth it because of the cost to replace them.
 
#12 ·
I've said it once I`ll say it again :shaking: amazon.com :flipoff2:

1.5" $4.19 shipped

They had 1 3/4" and 2" for ~ same price too. The prices and availability fluctuate. I normally buy 5 at a time. If you have seen my other posts you know I stock up on shit :flipoff2: to save money in the long run.

Oh, and was previously said there IS such thing as to slow. It causes excess heat, and that will sometimes make the bits or hole-saws loose their temper/heat-treat(whatever it is) and then chip, and get dull faster. In metal be sure to use a coolant or lube. I recently increased my drill-press speed a small amount and it made a world of difference in steel, and my bit was still cold to the touch when done.
 
#5 ·
I am specifically asking about a 3" holesaw that the teeth are rounded off. I have been using it in wood around the house to run some plumbing. I have been running it near stall speed with a 1/2" drill. I've always been told that no matter what the material, the slower you can turn a bit the better.
I posted the question here because I know a lot of people use holesaws around here for a lot different uses, including fabwork.
 
#10 ·
Okay, then use the right tool for the job. Use the hole saws for the notcher and a paddle or forstner bit for wood. I just finished running 1 1/4" conduit through a few stud walls within my garage. I started with a hole saw and after realizing how much time I was waisting, I switched to a paddle bit. I saved time and possibly the hole saw too.
 
#8 ·
I've had some of the bigger ones sharpened 3-6 inch

you lose the kerf,so they can only be done a couple of times,as they bind

My 2 cents
 
#14 ·
Self feeds are the way to go in clean wood. They drill fast, sometimes to fast, and need a lot of torque. I can drill hole for up to 2" PVC with an 14 volt cordless but go to my rightangle drill for the larger ones. Self feeds usually come in sizes that match holes for pipe. I think mine are 7/8, 1", 1 1/2", 1 3/4", 2", 2 9/16", 4 1/2"? I don't do enough with 3" PVC to have that one they will go thru nails but you'll have to sharpen them afterwords. I sharpen mine with a dremel ane a stone. I use ships augers for smaller holes 3/8" - 7/8"

You can buy holesaws that are deep enough to go thru 2X materials. I think my 4 1/2" hole saw is a ridgid from Depo and it will just do a 2X. I also think that Lenox bits you can get from plumbing supply houses will do 2X material but I don't have one I can look at righ now.

I have also seen hole saws "retoothed" A friend of mine takes old hole saws, grinds off the old teeth and welds bulk band saw blade material around the outside. He has several made using old wood bandsaw blades I gave him and several using fine tooth metal band saw blades. I would guess that this would work best with larger hole saws. Cutting depth will be limited to the depth of the new blade. He welds the old blade to the outside of the saw not on top of the old teeth.
 
#17 ·
I have also seen hole saws "retoothed" A friend of mine takes old hole saws, grinds off the old teeth and welds bulk band saw blade material around the outside. He has several made using old wood bandsaw blades I gave him and several using fine tooth metal band saw blades. I would guess that this would work best with larger hole saws. Cutting depth will be limited to the depth of the new blade. He welds the old blade to the outside of the saw not on top of the old teeth.
Cool idea, but rather tan wold to the end of a hole saw, weld it to a piece of appropriate size tube and then attach a hole saw to the other end so it can be attached to a arbor.

guessing your friend uses a spot welder to attach the blades. I know they make a loop in a band saw blade is made with an elect but fusion weld
 
#15 · (Edited)
I have also seen hole saws "retoothed" A friend of mine takes old hole saws, grinds off the old teeth and welds bulk band saw blade material around the outside. He has several made using old wood bandsaw blades I gave him and several using fine tooth metal band saw blades. I would guess that this would work best with larger hole saws. Cutting depth will be limited to the depth of the new blade. He welds the old blade to the outside of the saw not on top of the old teeth.
Now that is an interesting idea.

And back to the original question. Has anyone ever sharpened a holesaw?
I should have known that any question posed on the pirate would result in 99 posts about which tool is the right tool, tool theory, tool nomenclature, and triangulation. I have holesaws. They were at hand when I started the project so I used them. Now they are getting dull and would like to reduce/reuse and recycle by sharpening them if possible. I googled and found some info and as I expected the method is the same as any other "toothed" cutting tool.
But has anybody done it with satisfactory results? Or sharpened any saw themselves?
 
#16 ·
K2Orion Yes I have sharpened saw blades. Pain in the a$$. I only do it with my 12" chop saw when I don't have any other options. Small dimond stone and a LOT of time fileing each tooth. Usually I have them profesionally sharpened. I do occasionaly sharpen the chain saw blades. Usually I have them profesionally sharpened also. The right tool maks all the difference.

I digress. I do regularly sharpen the self feed bits. Since they are some what similar to hole saws with less teeth I don't see why with a dremel and a wizzer wheel you couldn't clean up the leading edge of the teeth. Try not to get it to hot and take out the temper. I'm assuming there is still a set on the teeth, resetting teeth on one would be a real pain. Use a good hole saw as a comparision and try to match what was there originally. You'll want to work on the straight part of the teeth. Make them straight vertical. This should also put a sharp corner on the sides and point the top. Take a sharpie marker and make a mark where you start and then move one way say clockwise, when you reach your mark again you'll be done. This is what I do with the chop saw blades, Nothing like 100 teeth to file!

Remember, it's often a lot easier to sharpen things when they get just a little dull than when they nolonger cut. I always resharpen my good chisels after I use them. just one or 2 passes on the diamond stone and they are always razor sharp. If you wait till they won't cut, expect to spend time at the grinder before you start with the stone.
 
#18 ·
CJ: Yes actually he has several ones custom made from tubing. Has several for deep boring on longer tube than a holesaw, almost like a core bit for concrete. One is set up to cut washers, 2 bits set inside each other. the inner one extends the farthest so it finishes cutting first. Used to make custom shims for something. Figgured it would be a little beyond the scope of this.

Not quite sure how you are suggesting attaching the hole saw to be able to chuck it. He machines a center on the lathe and welds that in place in the tube. Sometimes he machines the whole thing, sometimes he welds a 1/2" or 5/8" rod to a small plate then turns the plate so its concentric. He eithers migs or Tigs the blades on. I know he migs the blades he makes for the bandsaw, then grinds the welds flat.
 
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