When I bought my new welder there was actually a table in the owners manual that had different shade suggestions based off of what amperage/settings you are running. Mine stays on 10 for most things.
I was using a 10 and it did not seem like enough I stepped it up to 11 and it seems to be doing a lot better any darker on the thin stuff and I can't see. If I do 3/8" or so I`ll try 12 again.
For short arc I'm generally in the 130-150 amp range, usually have a shade 10. For out of position flux core at about 200 amps, usually a shade 11. For in position flux core at about 240-275 amps, shade 12. I have done up to 400 amps in spray transfer with shade 12, if I had to do it often I'd probably step up to a 13. For air-arc gouging shade 12 and I don the leathers regardless. For tig I'm comfortable with a 10 up to about 200 amps. Then I generally step to an 11 (or 12 if that's what's in one of my hoods rather than an 11).
I also prefer glass lenses to the cheap plastic ones that fixed shade hoods come with. The plastic ones seem to cloud up and scratch easier. I've never tried a gold coated lens. I have tried a couple auto-darks before (Miller Elite and Hobart) and it seems their shade was lighter than the same number in a fixed shade lens.
Any shade is going to give you adequate UV protection. Pick one dark enough so that you don't see spots when you break the arc, but light enough that you can still see what you're doing. Don't forget to clean or replace the clear lens as needed.
This might sound silly, but what color shirt do you wear when you weld?
I realized a while ago that if I wore a white undershirt to work, I would sometimes have sore eyes at the end of the day even if I used a #12. It turns out that a light colored shirt will reflect a small amount of UV from the arc to the inside of your helmet so what's irritating your eyes might actually be coming off the *inside* of the lens. It's not enough light to be distracting, but it is just enough UV to make your eyes sore. Try welding wearing a white T-shirt and then switch to a black T-shirt. Most people wouldn't think it would matter much, but try it and you can see the difference for yourself. Works on the same principle as Football players wearing eyeblack under their eyes. Wearing a pair of polarized safety glasses inside your helmet helps block "stray" UV also. No sore eyes since.
I mentioned that in another post too, I found that out the hard way and had sore eyes for ~3 days on top of sinus head ache :shaking: I actually have always welded in a t-shirt but it was my position that made it even worse.
Leather uppers and a chin guard on my helmet are in order.
I have a Hobart auto shade hood that is adjustable from 9 to 13. My mig is a Hobart Handler 175. If I'm welding sheetmetal with .023 wire on a low setting, I'll use 9. Welding outside in bright sunlight, highest setting, I've used a 12. Use as dark as you can comfortably see the puddle.
I use a 9 for most short circuit MIG. If I crank it up to globular transfer, it's not enough. Flux in-position, it's not enough.
My wife prefers a #8 gold for MIG. I can't use her hood w/out hurting my eyes. I've continually grilled her about ANY side effects after welding, she claims none (shrug).
Gold 12 and haven't looked back. Love it. The color of the arc looks whiter and I don't have a problem seeing what I'm doing most times. Other shades or auto helmets usually leave me with sore eyes at the end of the day. Oh and I second keeping the lens clean and protected.
I wear a dark colored shirt, either blue jean, flannel, or camo.
I have a Miller Elite Auto Dark, but to be honest,I LOVE my Huntsman Oxy/Accl. Lid (much smaller than an ARC lid) that I have fitted with a shade 10 Glass Gold Lens. I dont even use the damn $350 Miller Elit because I just love the gold lens.
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