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Sandblasting at home

17K views 30 replies 13 participants last post by  Shox Dr 
#1 ·
I really want to blast my frame, and well anything else I can clean and paint.

So I thought about buying one, and theres the 2 types I can buy:

and


I have heard the tank type is way more effective, If i got one, I would get something like a 5 gallon.

So what can you guys tell me about your PERSONAL EXPERIENCES with either of these types of blasters. I feel like I'd be able to use it more than just this once, and can't justify de-assembling my rig and taking it to the blasting place.
 
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#2 ·
If you order the siphon feed unit to blast your frame, you're going to wish you ordered the pressure pot blaster. I have a 10 gal. pot, a Speedblaster, and two siphon feed blasters 2gal/5gal.

The pressure pot gets the larger, crud covered, really bad scale, and thick metal jobs. Using this unit is dirty, LOUD, sends dust everywhere, and can be a bitch if you don't have a good water separator. My uniform with this blaster is Tyvek coveralls, muck boots w/taped seams, a canvas hood and respirator for fine particulates w/4 white filters, and a earmuffs. Even with all that, I still get dirty. But, it gets the job done and FAST.

I blasted a Bronco last summer and found if you lay a tarp down or if it's not windy, you can recapture your sand. The key with this blaster is filter, filter, filter the media. Oh yeah, you better have big compressor...I'm thinking at least 5hp-7hp with a 60+gal tank. Also, I can't tell from the pic, but make sure that blaster has a media and air cut off mounted separately. Some have just a media "cutoff/flow control" but no air...and when you disconnect the air feed, the pressurized pot blows sand/media back out through the male air fitting.

As for the siphon feed, it will likely get the job done....given enough time. Long before the pressure pot, I used my dads decades old Craftsman siphon feed. It works great, but doesn't remove material as quickly as a pressure pot. However, it's low maintenance and can handle some moisture in the line. When it plugs up, a quick shake or tap while holding the trigger....and the clog is dislodged. If the pressure pot clogs up, it's a 10 minute repair to take all the pipe fittings loose, clean them, and reinstall them in succession.

You didn't mention budget, but if you think you'll ever perform some serious blasting in the future, I'd get a quality pressurized blaster....and then see about getting a siphon feed unit for smaller jobs and convenience.

Also, that ^ Speedblaster (you can pretty much get a copy at Harbor Freight) is a hand held blaster that has a self contained hopper. It's awesome for cleaning small materials.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the info. That was very helpful.

So if I get a hand held siphon unit, what kind of compressor would I need for decent efficiency.

When I think about it, I don't know how much more blasting I'll be doing besides this, I think I might just grab the siphon unit and see how it works. Less of an investment, and for a total blasting noobie it seems alot more simple.


I like simple.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the info. That was very helpful.

So if I get a hand held siphon unit, what kind of compressor would I need for decent efficiency.

When I think about it, I don't know how much more blasting I'll be doing besides this, I think I might just grab the siphon unit and see how it works. Less of an investment, and for a total blasting noobie it seems alot more simple.

I like simple.
Regarding the siphon unit, I'd want at least a 220v compressor in the 3hp-5hp range with at least a 30 gal. tank. But then, I'd want a 220v comp. to supply air to crack lug nuts. :D I'm not saying you couldn't slide by with something smaller, but blasters are air hogs. IIRC, Lowes has an oil lubed pump air compressor that's 3ish HP and 20-30 gallons, but it's 110v. I couldn't find it on their site...but there's one at my local store.

Home Depot has a 2HP "running" 110v unit with a 26gal tank. It has a cast iron, oil lubed pump and it can be converted to 220v if desired.

Home Depot 110/220 26 gallon compressor

However, at $385, you're approaching 220v, more HP, bigger tank range....but if you don't have 220v access, you have to figure in the cost of adding a circuit.

Home Depot 3HP 60 gallon 220v unit

If I had no choice but to get a 110v unit, I'd at least want one with an oil lubed pump.

I've taken that 2 gallon siphon feed unit over to a friends house and used his gutless/oil less Craftsman with it. It worked fine...but we weren't blasting a frame. That comp. ran nonstop for over a half hour and required breaks to build up adequate pressure.
 
#6 ·
I can access a 60gal plus 220v compressor, its bigger than that 60 gal^.

So then it comes to media. Do I have to buy it in 5 gal buckets? Is there any way to use some other sand? And build a shaker mesh filter?

I know I'm most likely being super cheap and lame, but worst comes to worst, that doesn't work and I go get the proper media.

I ask because I drive dump trucks and I'm pretty sure I could grab a bunch of it cheap....

And this is assuming I have a Siphon and the above compressor
 
#7 ·
I had some quick work to do and didn't want to spend a fortune on sand so I just bought a bag at the local home improvement center. I think it was called medium industrial sand or something like that. Worked great and was like $5 for 40lbs.
 
#8 ·
In Memphis, sand can be as expensive as you want. Sifted masonry sand is $50 a yard, but it is awesome. It is consistent, clean, very aggressive, and best of all doesn't require sifting....but I sift it anyway.

Landscapers sand is a dirty orange sand that's used for fill in yards or general sodding work. Usually, it's got some trash and dirt clods in it....thus it takes a lot sifting. I made a wooden frame with patio screen. Once sifted and blasted, it's really easy to sift again and again. It goes for $15 a yard.

As for a building a mechanical sifter, mine is powered by armstrong.

I use a the biggest bin Rubbermaid offers with homemade wooden rails to store the sand. The patio screen frame is about the same width, but shorter than the bin so you can move it back and forth along the rails to process the sand. It works well.
 
#9 ·
i used a hf brand unit and stoped by home depot andjust got sand. wear a respirator and do it out side. as stated i to wish i built a sand box(catch basin) to catch the stuff so i didn't have to use so much. but outside clean up is easy just let nature take its course:laughing:
 
#10 ·
Moisture is the big killer with bulk sand. If its damp it will tend to clog most small blasters. You can buy sand blast sand at most places that rent blasters and the cost is not much more than HDepo sand and its dry. You might considder renting a good size blaster and a big tow behind comp for the job. We rented a 100lb blaster with all the safety equip, air hood and blast gloves and a IR 185 towed comp to blast the dump truck at work. Most commercial contractors rental places will have them. No waiting to rebuild pressure, less frequent fills. All in all not a bad deal.
 
#11 · (Edited)
For the cost of 3 40lb. bags of HD sand, I can buy well over 2000lbs of landscapers sand. :laughing: Yeah, it's going to be moist and replete with some trash, but a couple sunny afternoons of spreading it out on the driveway and beer intertwined sifting efforts will provide enough sand to last a very, very long while.

As for the commercial setups, my local rental place has one that's ridiculously powerful. I think it's a twin screw comp. with a huge gun/deadman; the demo guy looked like he was wrestling a python.
 
#12 ·
you will need a big aircompressor, thats for sure. ours is a twin 5 horse pump/motor with a 160 gallon tank and roughly 175psi (i believe) which works awesome because it basically is straight air to the compressor, it keeps the tank on the compressor built up to within 4-6lbs all the time, you can blast all day with it, and not worry about it.

the siphon feed is *okay* if you are doing something small, but the Speed Blaster is a much better choice for small parts (bracketry, etc.).

search for "pressure pot sand blasters" which work very well, although do make a mess, and you will get dirty. with our current set up, we can blast a full motorcycle frame in 20 minutes.

try not to use sand that contains silica, such as straight sand from a landscaping place or what have you. that stuff will mess you up. go to a place that deals in sandblast sand, and buy it there, expensive, but better for your health.

you can reuse the sand just like regular sand, using the method of sifting that Aces'n'8's mentioned, except after a few times being used it breaks down, and needs to be replaced.

if you can afford it, have the room, and only need to do small parts a "sand blast cabinet" is the way to go. does all the same, except catches the sand/media, and automatically reuses the sand/media.

just my .02
 
#13 ·
try not to use sand that contains silica, such as straight sand from a landscaping place or what have you. that stuff will mess you up. go to a place that deals in sandblast sand, and buy it there, expensive, but better for your health.

you can reuse the sand just like regular sand, using the method of sifting that Aces'n'8's mentioned, except after a few times being used it breaks down, and needs to be replaced.
If one uses a proper respirator or a fresh air hood, risks of exposure and possible silicosis can be avoided. If one just uses a "grass mask" i.e. cheapie cloth, they're going to have snot running all day long and possibly harm their respiratory system.

Also, IIRC, there was an NIOSH report which stated that even silica "free" sand and other blasting media can still pose risks to the users. Although silica does indeed inflict harm, they revealed that so does any fine particulate matter (dust) when it enters the lungs.
 
#18 ·
I had some fittings and 6" PVC around the shop, so I'm into my first one for a $20 gun and a $20 regulator. When I ran through the nozzle, I found a carbide one for another $20. My second was from a water tank and I don't have anything into it other than a few welding rods and a $20 gun.

The guy who designed/sells the plans doesn't post his pics around the web. The people who buy them from him don't post out of respect I guess. Honestly the design is so simple, you could build the dogone thing after seeing a pic or two. It took a day or so for me to get them after I ordered...
 
#23 ·
I got my plans for the blaster a few days ago. Well, more like ideas. Theres about a million variations on this thing, but it is a super simple idea. I definately think it was worth 10 bucks. I'm going to make one out of a 5gal bucket.

But I like the DIY part of it, not just some cookie cutter crap where theyre all the same. Plans are over rated. And if you actually need real plans to make something like this... maybe you should find something else to do...

But yeah, thanks a ton for the tip. Only now I am more excited to build prototypes/modifications of this than wrench on my rig!
 
#25 ·
Yeah I love seeing how folks mod stuff for their particular use.

I'm going to make a 5gal bucket lid with everything on it, and a syphon of some sort, so i can just pop it on and go.

Thats the plan anyway. Hopefully It won't work so then I'll use something waaay cooler.

But the info that you get on the board is worth much more than 10 bucks if you are a total sandblast newbie, like me.


Has anyone heard of the Co2 or whatever blasting? The pressure from the cylinder blows the liquid Co2 that freezes into pellets, that blast your surface, then it evaporates?

Or something like that. Sounded cool to me
 
#28 ·
Has anyone heard of the Co2 or whatever blasting? The pressure from the cylinder blows the liquid Co2 that freezes into pellets, that blast your surface, then it evaporates?

Or something like that. Sounded cool to me
Interesting link you provided.

NOTE:
A: A typical Cold Jet dry ice blast system operates at 80 psi (5.5 bar) with 150 scfm (4.25 m3/min), however your needs wil depend on your application. Low flow nozzles are available, which require only 50 scfm (1.42 m3/min) at 80 psi (5.5 bar).

Guess if you have a screw machine type compressor it might work. On the upper end (80 psi (5.5 bar) with 150 scfm ) you'd be pushing an IR 185 diessel tow behind towards its upper limits.
 
#26 ·
I can't say I've ever heard of that. There's been a lot of discussion of soda blasting and possible PA conversions for soda over the past month or two. I don't know if anyone's tried it yet. Black beauty, glass beads, and plastic (expensive) suits my needs for now. Try firing an email to the group or Rob and see if they've heard of it.
 
#29 ·
Just wanted to throw this out there.

I use a 5 gal pressure pot from Harbor freight with a 30 gal husky 110v oiled compressor. It works OK. Biggest issue is with the air supply. I have to wait for compressor to catch up. the blaster is a real air hog. Great for doing smaller areas on the frame though.

You really need a 220v 60 gal plus compressor for quantity blasting.

My media is usually Pool Filter Sand. Can get it at a local pool supply house. Good thing is its uniform size. I have also used Black diamond from Northern. The 30/60 mix is good in the pressure blaster. However the 40/20 mix is to fine and clogs in the gun. I think this size is better for a siphon feed and used in a cabinet.

If you are serious about doing a frame/Large area. Just go rent one from the local tool rental store. For paint removal I think that Aircraft stripper followed with Blasting on the Rusted areas is the best method. With sheet metal be careful to not apply too much to an area at a time. It is pretty easy to over heat and warp the sheet metal. Thick stuff like frames are much more tollerant.

Also do wear a good particulate filter. You can get one at Lowes/HD for arround $30 and the elements are replaceable for paint and particles. Do cover your body as much as possible as dust will get everywhere.

I basically blast out in the back yard as a little more sand to the ground does not hurt.

Carl
 
#30 ·
Rentals have their place and it is an option. I think the OP was looking for something a little more permanent though.

Plastic media is the shiz for sheet metal and fiberglass. It's pricey, but you don't have to worry about warpage or tearing through the glass. For frames I would go with black beauty or sand. Yeah dust masks are always a must.

squintv it sounds like velocity will be the limiting factor in the CO2 rig. It'll be really hard to send those particles out fast enough to do any good without a really serious air supply. Heck anything's possible. See if you can get it to work and let us know.
 
#31 ·
If you are using a cabinet use a good Sintered iron or even better Garnet, as Sand will break down quickly. You'll need an old vacuum cleaner to get rid of the dust as this acts as a cushion and the more there is in the medium, the less effective the blasting is.

If you are blasting outside or in a tent, then Sand is the better (read cheaper) medium. The best type of sand to use is called Kiln Sand or Silver sand, Builders Merchants sell it, as it's used for Dressing Keyblock Drives.

As for a compressor, you will need at least 14 CFM Free Air Delivered, and a 45 Gal (205ltr). Note I say Free Air Delivered, there is a big difference between what a compressor is rated at and what it can supply at the end of the pipe. If they don't know what you are asking them, then take 15-20% off the CFM rating

These are all my own experiences,

HTH
 
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